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Old 01-31-2010, 05:10 PM #1
aust10n
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DYE i4 Custom Paint Tutorial

i4 Custom Paint Tutorial

I read a couple of threads, where people were asking "how to" for doing custom paint jobs to their i4's. No one really had a good in depth answer.
I saw a picture of a mask and I wanted to do the same to mine. Here I'm going to do my best to put a tutorial together of how I did it.

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Paint. I used Krylon Fusion Paint. It is made for plastics. The paint has a chemical reaction where it fuses to the plastic. You do not need to do any preparation to the area you are painting prior to. Krylon paint can be purchased at Wal-Mart. I also seem to see it at a lot of your mom and pop type hardware stores.

Painters Tape. I used Scotch Blue Painters tape.

Razor.

Vaseline & Qtip.

Rubbing Alcohol & Cotton Balls

Double Sided Adhesive Tape. I used tape of a 1mil thickness. The tape can be purchased at Grainger.com I used a brand called 3M.
Per Jsmoke718, DYE uses Loctite 380 Black Max to secure the foam to the mask. If anyone uses this post how it worked out for you. I'm curious to know.



Preparation

First things you will want to do is remove your lens and soft ears/strap. If you are unsure on how to do this refer back to your manual.

Take your tape of choice and tape over what ever you do not want to paint. In my case I only wanted to paint the lens frame, so I covered the bottom half. To make taping easier, I found its best to use an excess amount of tape then use the razor blade to trim it back to make your lines tighter.


If you are meticulous about little detail, don't frustrate yourself with cutting little pieces of tape to cover small areas. That is what the Vaseline is for, but this will be done last.

If you want to spend the time trying to tape up the foam on the inside of the mask, go for it. I decided to slowly peel it back. It held together very nicely and is reusable.


Start from one side and gently start to pull it back. Don't pull it by the soft parts of the spongy foam. Instead try to pinch it at the base (where the hard piece of foam is attached to the adhesive) and pull it from there.


Take your time and it will stay intact and not come off in pieces. This will allow you to reuse it.


Here the foam is completely off. Some adhesive stayed attached to the mask, and pulled some of the base foam off. No biggie. Just take your fingers and pull this off and throw it out.


The adhesive that didn't stick to the mask is still on the foam, you want to take this off. Very gently peel the adhesive back off the foam. A very thin layer of foam will come off with the adhesive. No worries, it will not affect the foam.


This is what the adhesive looks like with the thin layer of foam coming off as well.


Once you finished your foam will actually look like a brand new piece.

The reason I did this instead of taping is because A) taping up the foam would have been time consuming and could possibly have ruined the foam when you tried to take the tape off and B) this will allow you to cover more surface area when painting.


On the inside of the mask were some black areas that I didn't want to paint. Instead of cutting small pieces of tape to cover these small areas I used Vaseline.
Take your Vaseline and a Q-Tip. Scoop up some Vaseline and spread a layer on the areas you do not want to be touched by paint. Once you are done painting wipe the Vaseline away and it will still be the original color.

Because you used the Vaseline you may have gotten small traces on the area you want to paint. To ensure the area being painted does get painted, take your cotton swab and shake some Alcohol on it. Wipe the area you want to paint to remove any Vaseline, and to just give a general wipe down before painting.

Painting

Pending on the paint you choose to use follow those directions. I used Krylon, so I can only speak on behalf of what I've used.
Shake up your paint 1-2minutes. I held the can back about 6-8 inches and did short bursts of paint in short sweeps. I would then give the paint 5-10 minutes to sit, then do it again. Pending on the darkness of the color you chose will determine how many coats you do. Over the course of one hour I probably did a total of 3-4 coats.
I then let the paint dry for 2 hours before doing Blood Splatter.

By the way! If using Krylon, and you're doing more than one coat you HAVE to do it before 24hrs or after 7days. Because in between this time the paint begins to fuse and the additional wet paint can ruin that fusing process.


Before Painting


First Coat


Final White Coat

Next I did a blood splatter effect. For this all I did was spray the paint into a cup, to cause the paint to pool, then I took a brush (or you can use a tooth brush) and dipped it into the cup. Now just sling it at your mask, distance and amount of paint is up to you. I practiced on paper before doing it on the mask.


This is what the mask looks like after painting.

Let your mask dry over night before taking the tape off, wiping off Vaseline, and sticking the foam back on.

Completing

Your mask is done drying.
Remove all the tape, and just take a paper towel and wipe the areas that you placed Vaseline. You may need to use your finger nail to flake the Vaseline off, as the layer of paint above the Vaseline did dry. Just know what is Vaseline and what is the area you intentionally painted.


Take your foam and measure up where you want it to go, this should be easy. Take your double sided adhesive tape and place along your foam, I ran the tape along and off the edges of the foam and trimmed it back with a X-acting knife. Remove the wax paper off the other side and place it back on your mask. Easy as that. Press and hold it against the mask so you know its secure. Your done.


Finished







The paint takes a full 7 days before its done fusing. I would wait till then to put your lens and strap back on. Just to insure nothing gets chipped or messed up. Definitely DO NOT play with the mask until the 7 days are up.

If you allow for the paint to complete the fusion process for the allotted seven days, the paint should hold fine against direct hits.
I play more woodsball than speedball. I was out in the woods walking through briers, the paint did not sustain a single scratch (although my brand new lens did). I received three shots directly on the frame and the paint didn't chip. The paint is solid, and very durable.


This is just a general tutorial. I'm not a very creative person so I copied a design I liked. I'm sure many of you can do some awesome designs and color schemes to your mask. If you do customize your mask using this tutorial post a picture here so I and others can see your work. You can also probably use this tut on any other kind of mask as well. Hope this helps.
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Last edited by aust10n : 11-07-2010 at 12:10 AM.
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Old 01-31-2010, 06:09 PM #2
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Wow so slick and almost looks factory, very nice job!
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Old 01-31-2010, 06:33 PM #3
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Wow so slick and almost looks factory, very nice job!
Thanks bro. I just put my strap back on. As soon as the lens comes in I'll take another pic. It will look nice with the darker lens.
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Old 01-31-2010, 06:45 PM #4
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wow good job
legit thread
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Old 01-31-2010, 10:27 PM #5
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wow good job
legit thread
Thank you!
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Old 01-31-2010, 10:36 PM #6
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very informative ! did you use any clear coat?

Love the blood spatter
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Old 02-01-2010, 12:41 AM #7
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very informative ! did you use any clear coat?

Love the blood spatter
I thought about it. But, I didn't want to mess up the fusing. If I put clear coat on it, that could cause a negative chemical reaction and it would begin to bubble. Krylon is some good stuff. All you need to do is wipe it before hand, paint, and let dry. I'll be playing with the mask for the first time this weekend, I will be sure to post how it holds up. I'm highly confident that if shot it will not be affected at all.
Thanks, a tooth brush works great for that stuff.
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Old 02-01-2010, 01:23 AM #8
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yeah i was just wondering due to the clearness of the paint. Might get another mask and try this out.
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Old 02-01-2010, 01:35 AM #9
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It came out clearer than what I imagined.
yeah man if you do post up some pics. If you end up needing some of the adhesive tape I'll be happy to send some to anyone that needs it, just cover the shipping.
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Old 02-01-2010, 08:28 AM #10
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absolutely epic, if i could wear I4's i would definitely do this

by the way did you apply the blood spatter immediately or did you wait for the white to set
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Old 02-01-2010, 09:50 AM #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aust10n View Post
i4 Custom Paint Tutorial


Painting

Pending on the paint you choose to use follow those directions. I used Krylon, so I can only speak on behalf of what I've used.
Shake up your paint 1-2minutes. I held the can back about 6-8 inches and did short bursts of paint in short sweeps. I would then give the paint 5-10 minutes to sit, then do it again. Pending on the darkness of the color your chose will determine how many coats you do. Over the course of one hour I probably did a total of 3-4 coats.
I then let the paint try for 2 hours before doing Blood Splatter.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ATLpaintballa View Post
absolutely epic, if i could wear I4's i would definitely do this

by the way did you apply the blood spatter immediately or did you wait for the white to set
.
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Old 02-01-2010, 11:20 AM #12
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looks really good dude. However, the no prep before you paint isn't exactly true. Even if you are using plastic paint you should wipe down your project with a good plastic safe cleaner/degreaser. If you don't the paint will still crack and flake quickly.
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Old 02-01-2010, 12:05 PM #13
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looks really good dude. However, the no prep before you paint isn't exactly true. Even if you are using plastic paint you should wipe down your project with a good plastic safe cleaner/degreaser. If you don't the paint will still crack and flake quickly.
You're right. I used Rubbing Alcohol to wipe it.
When I say no prep, I'm referring to sanding, or scuffing up the surface. But, yes you do want to wipe the plastic down prior to.
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Old 02-01-2010, 12:29 PM #14
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lol srry bout not reading that my bad
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Old 02-01-2010, 09:42 PM #15
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lol srry bout not reading that my bad
Its no problem.
If anyone is confused or has a question about what they read don't hesitate to ask.
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Old 02-09-2010, 10:06 PM #16
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Followed this thread and painted my axis the same way ill post when i have pic's absolutely awesome
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Old 02-09-2010, 11:41 PM #17
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Here's a pair I painted a while back (maybe a year?)



I left the foam on the mask, and just taped it up.
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Old 02-10-2010, 01:13 PM #18
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painted mine metalic silver, looks slick, try for pics soon but wanted to say the process is easy just takes some time, also is good if you put the mask, while its drying, near somewhere warm or in the sun so it dries better, cold weather can make the ish crack and come off
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Old 02-11-2010, 11:23 AM #19
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how durable is the paint job? because i would definatly do this if i know that it isnt going to chip off when shot
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Old 02-11-2010, 11:30 AM #20
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Almost look like mine, there it is on the Official Mask Pictures




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Old 02-11-2010, 10:21 PM #21
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how durable is the paint job? because i would definatly do this if i know that it isnt going to chip off when shot
I've been meaning to post up on that.
I played in a tournament this past weekend and I took three shots directly on the painted frames. The paint job took no damage.

ATLpaintballa and CPKim, I'm definitely interested in seeing how yours turned out.

I like the purple and green, looks good. Were you selling yours? I saw a similar pair for sell and I was tempted to buy them.

Witzbold those look sick. I think custom masks look best with the smoke lens for some reason.
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