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Old 12-07-2009, 01:08 AM #1
iday10
Insane in the Membrane
 
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Join Date: Feb 2007
RX/Borg/Clone/Droid Hacks & Mods (some void warranty)

Foreword: When in doubt, play it safe.

Although almost all of these mods are quite safe, very easy to perform, and of no more risk to your gun than any aftermarket upgrade, all mods marked in the directory with a "(VW)" before the name can void your warranty. As both I and the mods say, these mods are not recommended for the casual player; I'd just prefer you at least get the right instructions from a reliable source if you intend to try them anyway. I've performed every "(VW)" mod myself to ensure that they all work and all the techniques detailed below are the exact methods I used. Thanks for reading.



~~~~~



This guide is a collection of mods for virtually every MD marker ever made. If you see a mod out there that I don't have on here, post a reply about it and I'll add it into the thread.


This guide is still an ongoing work, and I welcome anyone's ideas or opinions to make it better. I'll be back to check this thread, add to it, and polish it regularly. Oh, and I don't take responsibility if you choose to perform these tricks and somehow manage to break something expensive, I've personally installed and tested all of these mods myself, so if they don't work for you, chances are that you need to do a little re-reading. Always remember, before you potentially ruin something expensive, post here or PM me with questions. Posts here are preferred, as I don't check my PM's regularly, but if the thread is dead by all means, PM me or someone else who's got a lot of experience with Macdev parts and markers.


-------------------
Navigation Index
-------------------


Quick guide to this thread: To navigate the thread easily without scrolling through my constant rambling, thousands of colons, run on sentences and grammatical errors, just hit Ctrl F and type in either the name of the section you want, or if that's too much effort, the number and letters next to the names.

Compatibility Guide- To see if a mod will work on your marker, just check here and next to the mod's number in the directory.

(*)= All markers
(V)= RX only
(^)= Older Borg only
(X)= All Borgs
(S)= All Spoolies
(VW)= Could void the warranty/potentially high risk

Addendums:
(ADD1) (On trigger mods)
(ADD2) (On adapting mods for the Droid/Clone)
(ADD3) (On polishing the Borg ram system. Not recommended, but still possible)
(ADD4) (On softening springs for different applications other than the valve)

*****
Trigger Mod Sections (READ: Addendum: 1, 4)

(*)Supply Section: 1:
(*)Frame-Mounted Magnetic Resistance Mods 2:
(VW)(*)-Double Magnet 2A:
(*)-Spring Secured 2B:
(*)Trigger-Mounted Magnetic Resistance Mod 3:
(*)Zero Microswitch Resistance Trigger Mods 4:
(*)-Spring ZMRM 4A:
(*)-Magnetic ZMRM: 4B:
(*)Secured Trigger Bearing Mod 5:
(*)Lighter Trigger Spring Mod 6:

*****
Drivetrain, Bolt, and Breech Sections (READ: Addendum: 2, 3)

Minor Drivetrain Mods Section 7:
(*)- Static O-Ring Swelling 7A:
(X)- Stick-Free Ram 7B:
Minor Upper Tube Mods Section 8:
(VW)(X)- Tighter Bolt Fit 8A:
(*)- Lower breech Resistance 8B:
(VW)(X)Quick Valve Spring Break In/Lightening Your Valve Spring 9:
(VW)(X)Tighter Cuspeal to Spring Fit 10:
(V)More Secure RX Bolt Cap 11:
(^)Heavier Borg Bolt (Gold Bolt For Older Borgs) 12:

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Droid/Clone mods: (S-SEC)
*****
Drivetrain modifications (READ: Addendum: 2)

(VW)(X)Polished internals: S:1
(VW)(*)- Static O-Ring Swelling: 7A:
(*)- Lower breech Resistance: 8B:

*****
Trigger Mods- (READ: Addendum: 1,2,4)
(*)Supply Section: 1:
(*)Frame-Mounted Magnetic Resistance Mods 2:
(VW)(*)-Double Magnet 2A:
(*)-Spring Secured 2B:
(*)Trigger-Mounted Magnetic Resistance Mod 3:
(*)Zero Microswitch Resistance Trigger Mods 4:
(*)-Spring ZMRM 4A:
(*)-Magnetic ZMRM: 4B:
(*)Secured Trigger Bearing Mod 5:

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Tuning Guides:

(X)Borg Tuning Guides:
(S)Spoolie Tuning Guides:



Quote:
Originally Posted by sNoW DeFiAnT View Post
I can only think of two possible mods for pre rx borgs they are: dremelling down the back of your trigger (only necessary on some aftermarket triggers) by the pin so it doesn't rub against the hose. This is for 03-05 borgs only.

The next one is for those of you who have a pbk low weight hammer. Basically replace the spring to one that's narrower and grounded on both ends so it won't dig into your valve stem or metal spacer on the lpr.
__________________
Lady Vampire Cyborg RX with Gold bolt, Sync chip, and Acid Customs CF trigger.
Vintage Diablo Matrix with Evolve Gold Bolt kit, AKA LPR, Tadao 5.0 board, Dual 7.62 AK47 Volumizers, Tequila breech, Redz leverlock, Shocktech ASA, and Hyper2.


Huzzah for Epic MD Mod Thread!

Macdev Militia

Last edited by iday10 : 05-21-2010 at 07:13 PM.
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Old 12-09-2009, 06:12 PM #2
iday10
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__________________________________________________ _______________
~~~~~~~~~Trigger Section~~~~~~~~~
__________________________________________________ ______________

I've been doing some simple mods to my triggers for years to save cash and get that extra chunk of performance out of one of the most important parts on your gun.

1: These are all the parts you will need for these first mods, from left to right they are the
(A). Trigger
(B). Modified spring tension screw
(C). Bic Velocity Gel pen spring (Or any spring of similar length and width)
(D). (Top) Trigger pin locking screw
(E). (Bottom) Trigger pin
(F). Trimmed off section of a different pen spring of the same type as (C)



Other bits for the DM style mod are two $2 set of Radio Shack Rare Earth magnets (The type I mean is pictured below, though Empire Prophesy magnets, and some from HERE will work), toothed pliers, some effective type of wirecutter, and superglue. However, if you decide to go with the SS version of the mod, you'll need an additional length of trimmed spring that is a very snug fit in the RX spring holder and only one set of magnets.







2: Mounted Magnetic Resistance
(Use with Adjustable Magnetic Resistance Mod or with just microswitch resistance, though with that it is incompatible with the Zero Microswitch Resistance Mod)

The first step is mounting the static magnet. You can choose not to do this, and just use your stock spring, but magnets give a much smoother pull. If you choose to go the magnetic route, mounting the magnets can be done in several ways, the methods for each are below along with instructions.

2A: Double Magnet (DM) Method

Take one of your magnets, and squeeze the very edge of it between the teeth of your toothed pliers until it cracks. Your objective is to snap off two sides of the magnet until you are left with a squared-off section small enough to fit into your Borg's spring holder. Now, attach it (without glue, just magnet strength) to another disc magnet, and slide the assembly into the spring holder. Look at the picture below if you need a bit of help. Once this is done, drop one drop of glue on each side of the squared magnet to keep it seated in the spring holder, make sure the intact magnet is securely in place, and you're done.


2B:Spring Secured (SS) Method

Find a spring that is a very snug fit into the spring holder of your Borg, and trim it until the flat end (the one you didn't trim) is flush with the face of the holder. Now, remove the spring, and glue a magnet to the flattened face. Once dried it should look a bit like the below picture


Now slide the spring with the magnet into the holder, making sure the spring is snug enough that the magnet won't wiggle out of place. Once this is done, it should look like this pic of a similar mod I made for the DM.




Addendum (ADD1):
Though the mounted magnetic resistance mod can be used with a mounted adjustable magnet, you can also run the mod without any other magnet at all. You can exchange the microswitch activation screw with the spring resistance adjustment screw, and screw it in until the mounted magnet begins to pull on the screw. However, you can also buy a grub screw that fits the spring tension adjustment screw hole, and swap the two out. Now throw your stock trigger spring in place and back out the new grub screw until you get a nice, slightly smoother and lighter pull than you could get with the spring alone. If you do this, you can also perform the Zero Microswitch Resistance mod.


3: Adjustable Magnetic Resistance
(Use with Mounted Magnetic Resistance Mod)

Next you need to mount your adjustable magnet. To do so, simply remove your spring tension adjustment screw (Or whichever of your screws is longest, just not the plastic one) and find which side of your remaining magnet opposes (pushes away from) the one you already mounted. Once this is done, mark that side with marker (just to avoid mistakes) and put the magnet on the side of your adjustment screw without the allen key hole, unmarked side facing downwards, (towards the screw, the two magnets need to repel each other) and move it around until it stays level without your help. Once there, simply apply superglue, wait for it to dry, and put it back into your trigger as shown below.







4: Zero Microswitch Resistance Mod:

4A: Spring method (easiest):
Take one of your Bic pen springs, and put it in the hole next to the noid you left when you removed the trigger, pic below. Now, if you did the DM or SS mods, you'll likely need to compress the spring between your fingers to lower the tension and allow the magnets to return the trigger forward. Put the trigger back in to test that the balance between the spring and magnets (or other spring) is correct, and that the trigger returns forward even with the tension screw backed out until it starts resisting against the glue on the back of the magnet. Don't bring the screw any further out, or the magnet may pop off.


(NOTE: It is possible for the spring to fall through the hole next to the noid, and into the lower tube during maintenance. If this happens, either remove the frame or pop the spring through the lower tube any out the back before trying to re-insert your drive train)



4B: Magnetic method (Much harder):
First, you'll need two sets of rod magnets from United Nuclear's (HERE) magnet section. The "1/4" Dia. x 1/2" long Rod" 6-pack, and the "1/4" Dia. x 1/4" long Rod" will do, though you could just get the second set if you don't mind gluing magnets. You'll also need a few thick paper notecards cut into strips as wide and as long as you need for them to fit into the hole up against the noid pictured above. Now, take two magnets, one long and one short (or just two of the short ones) and find which of their sides oppose each other (the flat sides, not rounded, for obvious reasons) and mark them. Now, mount the long one (Or two of the smaller magnets, glued on the sides that attract each other) against a rectangular block that will fit the rectangular space on the body next to the noid, taking care to make sure that the magnet is as far away from the noid as possible while still lining up with the rounded side of the hole. Now, put the second magnet in the hole opposing side facing the first magnet (s) (they should repel each other) and eyeball the space left between the magnets and noid. Now take those notecards, and cut then into strips. Put these strips against the noid until there's just enough space between the magnets and cards to allow the free magnet to move against the trigger.


If this method doesn't work just repeat the above steps, with a few exceptions. Mount a long magnet (or two attached and glued shorter magnets) onto the rectangular block so that the top of the rod is visible through the hole next to the noid. (Once again, I'm talking about the hole pictured above, so don't get confused) and place the trigger in place. Mark where the edge of the hole (and thus the magnet) is on the trigger, and glue the magnet in place there so it fits into the hole and opposes the already mounted magnet. If the area on the trigger isn't level enough to easily glue the magnet onto, just cut some more notecard slivers, and pile them to create a surface very close to level, wrap them in strong tape, then glue the bundle in place, or remove a notecard sliver if it still isn't level. Now glue the magnet in over this contraption (once again, so it opposes the magnets already in the gun) and re-install everything. Now adjust whatever resistance method you have mounted on your trigger until the pull is satisfactory. If the trigger refuses to snap forward quickly after a pull and your trigger is at it's highest tension, use a holepunch to cut out some perfect little circles from your notecard, and glue them into place over one of the magnets you mounted over the trigger (You could also use tape, if you're confident it'll stay in place). Add more circles until resistance is satisfactory.


5: No-Wobble Trigger Mod:

This mod is to prevent your trigger's bearing from sliding side to side during play. All you need to do is find a spring (or any hollow tube, really) that is wider than your trigger pin, but narrower than the open side of the bearing slot in your trigger (the side you can push the bearing out of) then just re-install the trigger, and you're done. Pic below.



__________________________________________________ _______________
__________________
Lady Vampire Cyborg RX with Gold bolt, Sync chip, and Acid Customs CF trigger.
Vintage Diablo Matrix with Evolve Gold Bolt kit, AKA LPR, Tadao 5.0 board, Dual 7.62 AK47 Volumizers, Tequila breech, Redz leverlock, Shocktech ASA, and Hyper2.


Huzzah for Epic MD Mod Thread!

Macdev Militia

Last edited by iday10 : 12-22-2009 at 09:45 PM.
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Old 12-09-2009, 06:13 PM #3
iday10
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6: Lighter Trigger Spring Mod:

Quite a few people using markers with stock spring triggers simply remove their springs and play the trigger directly off of the microswitch. However, although this makes the trigger quite light, it can cause some serious bounce and responsiveness issues. There are several ways to fix this rather annoying problem, but the cheapest and easiest is just using a lighter spring. Since most people don't have easy access to a large selection of springs small enough to fit inside of a trigger, the best option is just lightening the stock spring. This mod is essentially a simpler, safer version of the lightened valve spring mod mentioned later.

The Technique: This one is extremely simple. All you need are a few very tiny sections of macroline, an allen wrench that fits snugly inside of the macroline and inside of the spring, and your spring. Just take your macroline, cut off two chunks about 1cm long. First, shove the first slice of macroline onto the long end of your allen wrench. You may need to add some oil or grease to get the chunk to slide down. Once it's close to the bend in the wrench, drop the spring onto the wrench too so that one end is rested against the chunk of macroline and the other is pointed towards the end of the wrench. The spring should be able to fall off the wrench if you flip it upside down, it can be slightly tighter than this, but not so much that you need to force the spring onto the wrench. Now, with the spring and first chunk in place, slide the second chunk down the same way you did the first one. Once it's touching the spring, shove it down further until all of the coils of the spring are touching (full compression). Make sure the coil isn't bending inwards or outwards, then just leave the spring compressed on the wrench for a few days, or as needed. It's really pretty close to impossible to make the spring too short or light, so go nuts.

Addendum (ADD4): This addendum is a 2-parter. First off, you can use this spring softening method on virtually any smaller-sized spring, such as detent springs, other trigger springs, ZMRM springs, etc. Also, if you need to soften a spring further, cycles of freezing and heating (while kept under continuous pressure) will help. Never go colder than a freezer or hotter than boiling water, though, and make sure your spring is dried before usage.





__________________________________________________ _
~~~~~~~~~Borg Section~~~~~~~~~
__________________________________________________ _





This section is focused more on improving the Borg's shooting performance than just it's feel. Below are few basic things you can do to get a little bit extra from your Borg, and can help you avoid making some simple mistakes.


Supplies:

(A): Dow 55
(B): O-ring picks (dental picks if you don't have o-ring specific ones)
(C): Your preferred grease (Dow 33 or Militia are the best)
(D): Q-Tips
(E): Paper towels
(F): Sandpaper





7: Minor mods for the Drivetrain

7A: Static O-ring Swelling

This one is quite simple, and can be done in two ways. The objective of this mod is to swell the exterior static o-rings on your drivetrain to fix and prevent minor leaks.
The first method involves soaking all of the assorted static-rings in Dow-55. I would recommend overnight for prevention of leaks, and two full days for fixing them. Once this is done, you can simply wipe off all the extra 55 on the outside of the rings to keep the grease out of your ram, and apply a new layer of your own grease.
The second method is to keep the o-rings on the drivetrain, and just apply grease to the rings without removing them. Now keep the drivetrain outside of the body of the gun overnight with the layer of grease sitting on top of the rings. After that, just wipe off the excess 55 and apply your own grease.


7B: Stick-Free Ram

This isn't a mod so much as it is a commonly repeated mistake. First, remove your drivetrain, and uncrew the ram section. Pull out the hammer, and remove all the o-rings except for the switch o-ring. Now clean out all the little crevices where the rings used to sit, and then clean off the rings themselves, including the switch o-ring and that entire area. Now thoroughly clean out the inside of the ram sleeve with q-tips and paper towels. All of this is just to ensure a perfectly clean slate for the next step.
Now, take your favorite grease, and apply a drop the size of the dome on your grip-screws to the switch o-ring and the area it slides on, then take the excess and apply it to the second largest o-ring on the hammer. Now take another blob of the exact same size as before, and apply it to the inside of the ram sleeve using a q-tip, making sure that none gets on the bottom where the bumper rests. It's important to keep ALL grease and oil off of the rear bumper o-ring (the very small one at the back of the ram) as it may cause FSDO, and could void your warranty if it causes problems. Now there should only be a very (very) small amount on the rings, just enough to make them look like they've been glazed like a doughnut. This is to prevent excessive grease buildup from creating a suction effect on the ram just as it begins a cycle, causing FSDO and (very) mild inconsistency.





8: Minor mods for the Bolt/Detents

8A: Better Fitting Bolt

This is similar to the static o-ring swelling mod from the drivetrain section, but requires a bit more care and finesse. First you need to remove the bolt, then the bolt o-rings. Next apply a thick layer of Dow 55 to the outside of the bolt, and soak the rings in the 55 just like with the static o-rings. Leave everything out for 10 (or so) hours, then wipe off all the Dow 55 and test the fit. The easiest way to do this is just to hold it pin-up and cycle it through the breech by hand. Repeat this process as often as you want, though I wouldn't recommend more than 2 days total of soaking.

8B: Lowering Breech Resistance

This is only for people who notice an abnormal increase in resistance when the bolt passes the detents. First, check the difference in resistance between when the eyes are in place, and when they aren't, both tests being performed with the eye covers in place. If there is a difference, it means one of your eyes is too far into the breech, and needs to be held back by either a tiny o-ring or a very small trimmed spring, whichever you'd prefer, just don't mess up the eye alignment or scratch/block the eyes.
If the eyes are not causing the excess resistance, simply and off roughly 1mm from the back of each detent, and insert a thin o-ring between the plastic lip of the detent and the aluminum lip of the breech where it normally rests. If you don't have any o-rings, sand a mm from the front of the detent, making sure you keep it as perfectly rounded as possible.
-CONTINUED ON NEXT POST-

Last edited by iday10 : 12-22-2009 at 09:48 PM.
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Old 12-09-2009, 06:18 PM #4
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9: Quick Valve Spring Break In

(Thread devoted to the subject is here.)

I've already said this once, but if you have any questions about any of the below steps, post or PM, depending on weather or not the thread is alive. I'm on almost every day, so replies shouldn't take too long, so don't hesitate.

Supplies:
Valve spring, exact length of the valve spring, valve spring spare, (The spare is optional, you can get one at Artie's/Ace, or any other hardware store that has a lot of smaller parts. The one I got was from Ace, and was perfectly identical to a stock spring, but was made out of Stainless Steel, so I'd imagine it wouldn't be as vulnerable to corrosive wear over time as the stock spring) spare valve spring's exact length, any kind of hollow tube large enough to fit your valve spring without giving it too much wiggle room, a wooden, plastic, or other softer rod with a totally flat face to compress the spring (Essentially a perfect cylinder, otherwise it might spread out the top coil, causing it to slip out of place during firing, and it needs to be a softer material or it could damage or flatten out the spring) and some weights that you can balance on the rod/tube that you intend to compress the spring with. Keep in mind that the spring should be compressed down to roughly half an inch in length. The less room, the faster the break in, but if you compress it too much you risk damaging the spring.

Getting started: To compress my spring, I put it inside of a Mini Maglite. First I threw in one battery and some tissues to decrease the room the spring would have, and I put in a plastic circle so the spring wouldn't cut through the tissues. Next I took out the conical spring on the back cap, and put in the spring. I then forced the backcap back into place and screwed it down until there was only a very small space left between each coil. Now, using whatever method you chose, be it shoving the spring between two heavy objects, the tube method, etc, compress the spring. It would be a good idea to leave a little bit of space between the coils, though it isn't necessary. What IS necessary is making sure the spring doesn't bend outwards on any side, keeping it as close to perfectly straight as possible.

Options: Now, if you just intend to speed up the spring's break-in period, overnight would work for the stock spring, and 24 hours would work for a new spring. If you want to take a gamble, and try to lighten the spring's pressure in hopes of lowering pressures or dwell, go for 4+ days. The more the better, but don't go crazy, and make sure you check on it occasionally.

Initial Testing: Now comes the moment of truth. Throw the spring back in your RX, making sure it's properly seated against the cupseal (removing the bolt and poking it back into place with a small allen key would work, as would the "tighter cupseal/spring fit" mod). Now, remove the bolt and cycle the hammer forward with an allen key, being careful not to scratch anything, and fully push down the poppet several times. If the spring is still long enough for your RX, it won't make any noises at all, and you can safely push down the poppet even further by gently pushing it into the valve with an allen key just to be sure. Don't be afraid to stretch and re-compress the spring a few times to get the length right.

If The Spring "Pings": If the spring has lost enough length that it doesn't seat properly, you'll likely hear a small "ping" or similar noise from the valve area as the spring seats itself. If this happens, just remove the spring, mark it's length on a piece of paper, and slowly stretch it slightly with your hands or pliers. Do not stretch it too far or for too long, a one inch stretch for one second should work. Now measure it against the previous length of the spring, and re-install it if it has increased in length even slightly (2 or more mms). If it increases in length past the initial length measurement you took, just compress it again for a few minutes and stretch it again. Once the length is close t perfect, do the "ping" test, and repeat the above if you still hear or it pinging. If it keeps this up, repeat the above steps. Make sure you don't stretch it further than it was when you began, as if it reaches that point the spring likely isn't the issue.

Final test: Just dry cycle the marker (with air this time) to ensure you don't have any leaks, and you're finally done.





10: Tighter Cupseal to Spring Fit

Many people have problems with their valve spring falling off of the nub on their cupseal. To tighten the fit between these two parts to relive this issue, several ideas will work. They include:

A: Adding a thin strip of non-tearing, non-disintegrating tape to the cupseal nub
B: Putting a single drop of glue on the nub without the spring and allowing it to air out so the fumes don't interfere with any sealing surfaces
C: Putting a small notch on the nub so the spring will catch and hold in place over the plastic that was pushed out of the way. Just make sure that there is no loose plastic that could pull or break off and fall into the valve

Now the most important part of this is to keep the part of the seal that actually contacts the valve totally clean and totally free of absolutely anything other than what Macdev put there. Same with the area where the valve seals against the cupseal. Any small furrow, microscopic drop of glue, tiny abrasion, etc could ruin the seal and cause a leak. MD manufactured these specific areas to ridiculous tolerances, don't try to second guess e'm




11: More secure RX bolt cap

This guide was taken at gunpoint from Poopresearch's thread HERE so I can't really take credit for anything other than a few minor touches here and there. Anyway, some people have had problems with the RX bolt cap swiveling too easily, and popping out during games if rubbed or brushed too hard against something. This is a simple mod to fix that issue.

Performing The Mod: First, remove your bolt cover from your gun.
Next, you'll want to remove that tiny screw on the side, being extremely careful not to strip it. Under this screw will be another screw, this time a brass grub screw. There is a spring under this grub, so be careful to not let it fly off, and try not to strip it either. Now, remove the spring and make sure the ball bearing underneath doesn't fall out as well. Now, go find a small object, preferably rubber or plastic, that cannot retain moisture, won't corrode, and wont shatter or splinter under stress, and throw it in there over the ball. This object should be roughly 3 mm long, but it's up to you how much extra tension you want on the ball bearing.To get a feel for the tension, just follow all of the following steps, minus the glue/loctite part. Now, put everything back together, dabbing a near-microscopic bit of weak glue or loctite over the threading on the two screws. Allow the glue/loctite to dry on the threads, reassemble, and you're good to go.




12: Heavier Borg Bolt Mod (Gold Bolt For Older Borgs)

This mod is designed to add a bit of extra weight to your Borg bolt to give it the same effect as the Gold Bolt for the RX. All you need to do is remove your bolt, and drive down to the local hardware store with it. If you have an accurate portable digital scale (measures in 10ths of a gram or better) bring it with you. Now, go to the screw section, and look for screws the size and threading of the hole in the back of your bolt (5/8th in metric is a safe bet if you don't want to go all-out). Now, grab several of these screws in varying lengths, both grub and mushroom cap varieties. The objective here is to add different length screws to the bolt to add weight and find the perfect balance. Don't go too heavy in terms of screws. Just go with 5/8ths if you don't want to have to do any fine-tuning. This mod should allow you to lower your LPR and HPR.
__________________
Lady Vampire Cyborg RX with Gold bolt, Sync chip, and Acid Customs CF trigger.
Vintage Diablo Matrix with Evolve Gold Bolt kit, AKA LPR, Tadao 5.0 board, Dual 7.62 AK47 Volumizers, Tequila breech, Redz leverlock, Shocktech ASA, and Hyper2.


Huzzah for Epic MD Mod Thread!

Macdev Militia

Last edited by iday10 : 12-22-2009 at 09:43 PM.
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Old 12-09-2009, 06:21 PM #5
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__________________________________________________ ______________
~~~~~~~~~Droid/Clone Section~~~~~~~~~
__________________________________________________ ______________




(S-SEC)

S1: Bolt, Valve, And Can Polishing

This is a rather more complex mod than for the RX, as Spoolies are generally more complex guns, so don't attempt this if you aren't totally confident in your abilities, skilled with your hands, and experienced with your marker. If you don't have the materials or skills for this mod, see if you can find a good reliable proshop to do it for you. Note, however, that this mod is likely to void your warranty, and could do some real damage if done incorrectly.


Performing the mod: I made a thread on this subject, with performance results and the rest, so to avoid clutter, here's the link instead of just some copy/pasted text blocks. (HERE is the thread) The Dye forum also includes a thread on performing a good internal polish, which has worked for me on the several spoolies I've already internally polished. That thread is HERE. The parts in the Droid you'll want to polish are the exterior and interior of the bolt, the inside of the firing can, and the valve if you're so inclined.


Picture of my bolt post-polish, from the thread linked above.
~~
Aside from being a bit more pale, it looks exactly the same as normal.




The scratch on the top right is from the polish. The was some slight discoloration there from the detents, which stood out more after a few microns of the anno were removed.
~~

Mechanics of this mod: By lowering the resistance the drivetrain must overcome to reach firing position, you effectively speed up the cycle time of the marker. As you likely know, dwell determines the amount of time that air pushes on the firing mechanism. If the marker needs less time (and energy, though only a little bit less) to reach firing position, you can lower dwell time without worrying about FSDO or inconsistency. The lowered resistance also decreases the time the drivetrain needs to cycle back into it's rest position, shortening the time the system remains in the "half open" position, cutting wasted gas and ensuring that there is no "turbulent" air behind the ball as a result of the airflow being cut off too slowly, with this mod the return cycle cuts off flow cleanly, a bit like a guillotine. Now, note that this will not make a monumental difference in performance or efficiency. This mod is more focused on making the cycle more reliable and responsive, but the small performance gain is more than worth the small price for a professional job.


Addendum (ADD3): You can also polish the RX ram and ram sleeve, but you'll need to be especially careful not to throw off the tolerances on the ram. I especially don't recommend this mod, but if you've got a spare ram for some reason, or a willingness to possibly destroy your stock ram, and almost certainly your warranty, go ahead.


Addendum (ADD2): Virtually all trigger mods will work the same on the Droid/Clone as they will on the RX, same goes for the o-ring swelling (though I wouldn't recommend it on a spoolie) lowering breech resistance, and a handful of others. Just apply common sense in terms of adapting these sections for your marker and you'll be fine.






*******************
Tuning Guides
*******************






Tuning guide 1: RX/Adaptable for Borg

Overview: There are many methods for tuning, but few of them make clear weather they intend to tune for smoothness, responsiveness, efficiency, etc. Here are general guides for each, most of this should look pretty familiar, I haven't really revolutionized any of the steps. All these guides are written for the stock RX or stock Droid, but can easily be adapted for Clones or older Borgs. These won't work very well until whatever marker you're using is well-broken in. I'd recommend doing this at a field, with paint, over a chrono, as the "by ear" method of tuning is a crapshoot.

P.S: Take a few shots over the chrono, recording your current settings and FPS, and make sure you don't lose this.


Efficiency: Here you are attempting to cut your dwell time as low as possible to limit the time that gas is flowing out of the poppet. The premise behind this is "Smaller gas volume at higher pressure" equaling better efficiency, so keep this in mind. These are general outline settings. You know your Borg better than I do, so provided you follow these general steps, you'll get roughly the same results.

1: Now, with your dwell at 9, HPR at 210PSI if you have a gauge or a gun with a gauge, and your LPR half a turn in from flush, take a few shots.

2: If your gun is shooting hot, drop your dwell until it isn't, or until you get inconsistency, and set your dwell 1 point above this.

3: If you can't get to velocity, adjust your LPR in until it does unless you need to go past 1 turn, at which point you need to raise your HPR. Basically you're aiming for a low dwell with a high LPR and HPR.

4: Now try decreasing the Dwell. If the FPS drops by more than 10, set your dwell back to 9.

5: If you can work down the dwell lower than 9 without a significant FPS drop, keep going until your FPS does start dropping, then set the dwell 1 point higher than that setting.

~

Smoothness: Here you want the lowest LPR possible coupled with an unusually long dwell time. These are general outline settings. You know your Borg better than I do, so provided you follow these general steps, you'll get roughly the same results.

1: Start with your LPR 1/4 turn out, HPR 180, and dwell 16. Check your FPS.

2: If it's shooting hot, decrease (screw out) your LPR until you're good, then leave it alone. If it's shooting low, go to step 5

3: If your RX was shooting low, try a slight increase in the HPR. If this doesn't work, you'll need to adjust the HPR back down and increase your LPR pressure.

4: Now see if you can drop your dwell while still reaching chrono speed.

5: If your FPS starts going down by 10 FPS per point, bump your dwell up one and leave it there.

~

Balanced: Set your dwell to 12, HPR to 180, LPR to chrono. If you need more than 1/4 of a turn inward with the LPR to get velocity, bump the HPR slightly.



~~~~~~~~~~~~~~



Tuning guide 2: Droid/Adaptable for Clone

Overview: This guide is roughly the same as the Borg guide, and as I copy/pasted there: These are general outline settings. You know your Droid/Clone better than I do, so provided you follow these general steps, you'll get roughly the same results.

Efficiency: Set the Dwell to 10, HPR to chrono. Really, that easy.

~

Smoothness: Set Dwell to 14, HPR to chrono

~

Balanced: Set Dwell to 12, HPR to chrono
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Last edited by iday10 : 12-22-2009 at 09:48 PM.
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Old 12-09-2009, 06:23 PM #6
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Finally updated the thread. I'm requesting a mod change the name of the thread to better reflect the new content.
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Old 12-09-2009, 06:23 PM #7
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Nice work Iday. Spread the wisdom!
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Old 12-09-2009, 10:03 PM #8
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Thanks, this post was an absolute monster to write. Glad to know it won't die before anyone reads it. Hey, maybe if I ask Santa for Christmas, he'll post it as a sticky!

Impossibly ninja ninja edit: Hey, just threw in your RX bolt cap mod.

SUPER ninja edit: All posts updated to make navigation easier, an addendum has been posted in the Droid/Clone section, and numerous individual sections have been slightly modified. Any further suggestions would be great.
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Old 12-10-2009, 02:54 AM #9
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very in depth,

excellent job you make me want my rx back
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Old 12-10-2009, 10:24 AM #10
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What marker do you have now? The ram, breech, and several of the trigger mods will work on almost everything, same with the spring break-in and a few others. I've asked Kai to change the name to reflect the new changes and new MD Spoolie section, but he hasn't gotten back to me yet...


P.S: Seriously, does anyone know of any other custom mods? I've never used an older Borg long enough to do anything crazy to it, so I don't have any marker-specific mods for models earlier than the RX.

P.S: Now adding indicators to the directory to help show which mods aren't compatible with certain markers, but I'll need some help on that for older models.
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Old 12-10-2009, 10:30 AM #11
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Personally I always advocate that people not mess with them. I've never had to mod a MacDev gun. They work great as-is.
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Old 12-10-2009, 12:03 PM #12
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Also keep in mind, compressing a spring won't break it in. It's the compress *and* release that will break in a spring.
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Old 12-11-2009, 10:40 AM #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sumorai View Post
Personally I always advocate that people not mess with them. I've never had to mod a MacDev gun. They work great as-is.
Too true, that's why I didn't tell people to start drilling and cutting . All of these mods are pretty easily reversible, and none of e'm put any of your major parts at risk. I just like anything that can make my gun more comfortable and easier to take care of, plus these save me a ton on upgrades.

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Also keep in mind, compressing a spring won't break it in. It's the compress *and* release that will break in a spring.
The compression is to help decrease the metal's initial "stickiness", and, in layman's terms, to soften it. I could go more in depth about crystalline metal structures, but you'll likely need to stretch and re-compress the spring a few times to get the length just right anyway, so it's a bit pointless. However, I will update the post to make this a bit more clear, thanks for the input.




Edit: If either of you are willing to change the thread's title for me to better reflect the new content, PM me. Thanks.


Super edit: Top posts edited for organization, new tips etc added. More to come.
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Old 12-12-2009, 04:56 PM #14
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Polishing section updated, now with pics of finished bolt.
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Old 12-14-2009, 03:54 PM #15
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I do not really suggest any of this, and please note that if a gun came in with some of this done, it could very well void the warranty or cause other issues. A properly maintained marker that is up to spec and well taken care of will function flawlessly for a LONG time.

I personally had well over 150k shots on my Rx without a single sign of wear (ask Bourke, the designer or Jerry) and replaced ONE oring in its ownership with me. Again, a well maintained marker will function flawlessly.
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Old 12-14-2009, 05:04 PM #16
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I could see the polishing (which I don't really recommend anyway) voiding the warranty, but not any of the stuff involving the trigger. I suppose over-compressing the spring could be an issue, but if done properly it just produces a spring identical to a normal, broken in spring. Which are you specifically talking about? I'll put "voided warranty" warnings on the ones you point out.


P.S: Tuning guide added. Not a very good one, but at least the "balanced" settings aren't too crazy.
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Old 12-14-2009, 05:09 PM #17
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off the top of my head, because I don't want to read back through it all anyway...

any and all polishing is a bad idea
cup seal modification
spring compression
modifying your bolt
lube on the ram bumper


and keep the gun settings stock until they are broken in properly.
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Old 12-14-2009, 05:21 PM #18
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There is a lot of incorrect information in this guide.
I know your trying to help out but a lot of the information is way off
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Old 12-14-2009, 05:43 PM #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curly2k3 View Post
off the top of my head, because I don't want to read back through it all anyway...

any and all polishing is a bad idea
cup seal modification
spring compression
modifying your bolt
lube on the ram bumper


and keep the gun settings stock until they are broken in properly.
I already put that part about breaking in the gun before tuning in there. Also, how is lube on the ram going to void the warranty? Do you mean the static o-ring mod?

Quote:
Originally Posted by e_friccero View Post
There is a lot of incorrect information in this guide.
I know your trying to help out but a lot of the information is way off
Specifically? I'm not a professional gun-tech, and it's difficult to type this much about anything without being wrong about something.
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Old 12-14-2009, 05:45 PM #20
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well the static oring stuff is more or less going to swell orings. putting any lube on the bumper will cause shoot down, stick, ect... and would cost you money if we teched it and found it there.
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Old 12-15-2009, 09:07 AM #21
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Quote:
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well the static oring stuff is more or less going to swell orings. putting any lube on the bumper will cause shoot down, stick, ect... and would cost you money if we teched it and found it there.
Wow, never seen that before. The shop I took my RX to to verify that it was in perfect working order after I got it told me to apply a dab there Huh, weird that I never had any problems with it. Thanks for the info, I've updated the top post to indicate which sections put the gun/warranty at risk. Any additional help would be extremely appreciated, I'm always open to new input on this thread, provided it's constructive.

Edit: Curley's suggestions now included in the thread. Any more input would be great.
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