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Originally Posted by superswole
Ok But can you give me a explation as to why this works. Do the orings not seal and need to be spaced out. Is it the air getting around the ram making the noise? How many wraps of tape should be applied. What bob long parts do I get to better fix the problem. I have 4 nme's so I'd like to fix this problem the right way and stock up on bob long parts if necessary. Thanx for the help
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Okay, this fixed the problem for me because I found that the system x Ram Sleeves, or the Ram's had a tolerance issue. I believe it was the Ram Sleeve because I actually like using an NME Ram in my intimidators in place of stock 2k2 Ram's and it always worked fine.
The parts you need to replace IF you want to go that way are the Ram Sleeve at least and the Ram if you wish. Keep in mind that all the other system x users are happy with their stock parts. I, just as they all can tell you, just love Bob Long products. All the other parts will work with the marker such as back cap, cup seal, poppit, and so forth.
Also. Take out your bolt and open up your clam shell. Try running shooting the marker like this and see if you can distinguish where the sound is coming from.
Quote:
Originally Posted by superswole
Well as recommended I wrapped the ram grooves with 3 wraps of teflon tape and lubed the ram with dow 55. Also lubed poppet and such. Now shoots 265-270 in a vary narrow range of hpa adjusting with lpr at 80. Still makes same noise at 255fps and below. But does it only 1 out of 8 shots or so at 265 fps. Cant get speed up at all. Before I did this procedure I shoot 305-315. So it did at points make the noise go away. But still makes noise at lower operating pressure and can't get speed up. Should I replace the ram??? What would fit. Thanx Guys for the help
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Hmm, these results both help reveal and confuse things. These results show that the plume of air was in fact caused by the Ram Ram/Ram Sleeve. If you haven't already, but I assume you would have, replace the Ram orings and lube them with Dow 55 and see if it helps. If it doesn't I am almost certain it's the Ram Sleeve.
I think three layers may have been excessive since you now can't chrono the marker right, but it does tell us something. Please use the term Velocity or FPS in terms of ball speed, and speed in terms of shots per second so my simple mind doesn't get confused lol
I believe that what's happening is that while your rear oring is sealing fine, (I will explain a good test for this bellow) your front oring is what's causing your marker to get a poor seal. So what happens is when your marker shoots the air pushes against the back oring fine and it pushes the ram and bolt forward causing your shot just fine at 300fps. Then when the solenoid resets and the air starts to push back on the front oring there is for some reason a lack of a seal and that noise you hear is air escaping past it. This could also be the cause for any bps issues.
I had this issue myself several times. Mainly on my older NME's. The newer production ones and the LE's never had the issue. I am not sure if I should blame the Ram/Ram Oring or the Ram Sleeve. I believe it to be the Ram Sleeve because I believe that somewhere in the front section of the Ram Sleeve near where the ram sits when in the forward positon there is a poor finish or tolerance which allows air to get past the oring.
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i have no clue wtf you did to your ram. you should just be able to replace the 0-rings and use dow55. teflon tape sounds excessive. i dunno though, Tim knows what he's talking about.
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I'll explain this. It's a trick I learned once for fixing an oring in a bind. If your oring isn't getting a good seal and you are in a tough spot say at the field or something, you can put the Teflon tape bellow the oring to raise it a bit and get a good seal. I did this once or twice on a couple of my NME's (I've now owned 4 as well but not all at once like this guy) and I found it always helped especially on the front oring on the Ram. I always found that the rear oring worked fine (I will explain a good trick to check to see if you are getting a good seal on it bellow.) That's why I suggested it simply to see what the results were.
OKAY REAR ORING TEST
This test is a pain in the *** so I am suggest doing it when the marker is apart so you don't have to take it apart to do it. With a fully assembled marker you would have to take the frame off as well as the hoses. Now with the Body and mechanical parts of the marker together put your bolt in the back position and press your thumb against the rear barb with generous pressure. Now push the bolt forward and see what happens when you let go of the bolt. If it snaps back into place it means you created a vacuum an your seal was good, if it doesn't snap back you can replace the rear oring and lube it and it will create a good seal.
