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Old 03-21-2009, 07:25 AM #1
HYDE - Team Mayhem
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'09 EGO LPR and Dwell Tuning Guide

So I've been reading a lot of posts where players say the LPR screw should be flush with the end of the cap. Do they mean the outer rim of the LPR cap (see top highlight), or the end of the inner ring of the LPR cap where the screw threads start (see bottom highlight)? I thought it is supposed to be flush to the outer rim so when you lay an allen key across the face of the cap, the screw should meet the allen key in the middle as it lays across (see middle highlitght).



I wanted to get the LPR setting straightened out first before I follow the Dwell tuning guide outlined by Planet Eclipse. PE says no more than 2.5 turns in which it would reduce wear and tear on the rammer bumper o-ring but could cause drop-off or inconsistent velocities. Leaving the screw out too far you may be at the high end of wear and tear on the rammer bumper o-ring. I think I'm going to follow this dwell tuning guide with one full turn in from the outer rim of the LPR cap. This should give me average results and average wear and tear on the rammer bumper o-ring.

- Dwell setting. The dwell setting on each Ego9 needs to be set up individually by sweet-spotting the dwell to the marker in question. It is not a case of a dwell setting of 8, 10 or 12ms will work perfectly on every marker as tolerances and performance of components within the marker are different. Sweet-spotting the dwell can be performed in a similar fashion to the “Efficiency for Dummies” thread on the Geo forum:

1. Chrono the marker as it is until you reach the desired velocity; let’s assume you want to shoot at approximately 290fps.
2. Remove the rubber grip screws on the right hand side of the Ego9 and push the set-up pushbutton on your circuit board to enter the set-up menu.
3. Scroll through the menu and "Unlock" the circuit board.
4. Close up the grips again so that you don't lose the three screws that you're about to drop!
5. As the marker is now unlocked go into the DWELL parameter and lower the dwell by 1.0ms from 10.5ms (the factory setting) to 9.5ms.
6. Chronograph the marker and check that the velocity has remained approximately the same.
7. Again go into the DWELL parameter and lower the dwell by 1.0ms.
8. Chronograph the marker again to check that the velocity has remained approximately the same.
9. Repeat steps 7 and 8 until the velocity starts to drop.
10. When you reach this stage your DWEL L is set too low to achieve the velocity you require. You must now raise your DWELL by 0.5ms from its current setting.
11. Chronograph the marker again to check that the velocity has returned to the desired value. If it has not then increase your DWELL again in 0.5ms increments until it does.
12. When you are content with the velocity readings, exit the DWELL parameter and "lock" the marker so that you are tournament legal.
13. You have now sweet-spotted your Ego9's DWELL to maximize its efficiency at that particular Inline Reg setting.

- LPR setting. The output pressure of the LPR will directly affect the speed at which the rammer travels. If the output pressure of the LPR is set un-necessarily high then adjusting it lower would reduce wear and tear on the rammer bumper o-ring. Obviously taking it too low could result in other issues such as drop-off or inconsistent velocities so to ensure a sufficient margin for error do not turn the LPR screw in more than 2 ½ turns.

- Dry-firing. The primary cause of quicker than normal bumper deterioration is DRY FIRING!
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Old 03-21-2009, 07:58 AM #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HYDE - Team Mayhem View Post
It is not a case of a dwell setting of 8, 10 or 12ms will work perfectly on every marker as tolerances and performance of components within the marker are different.
.

My dwell is at 8.2 at about 1.5-2 turns in on the LPR.

When they say flush, they mean with the end of the cap. If you go by the inner ring where the threading starts, you'd already be about 1 turn in.
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Old 03-21-2009, 10:59 AM #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HYDE - Team Mayhem View Post
So I've been reading a lot of posts where players say the LPR screw should be flush with the end of the cap. Do they mean the outer rim of the LPR cap (see top highlight), or the end of the inner ring of the LPR cap where the screw threads start (see bottom highlight)? I thought it is supposed to be flush to the outer rim so when you lay an allen key across the face of the cap, the screw should meet the allen key in the middle as it lays across (see middle highlitght).
you do realise thats in the stickies, right?

good thread, can be applied to the other models too.
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Old 03-21-2009, 12:10 PM #4
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You can either raise or lower the dwell based on your preference. If you lower the dwell, you get better efficiency and would shoot faster because of the lower recharge time. However, if you raise your dwell you change sound signature (theoredically making it quiter), have less kick, softer on paint, and is more consistant on velocity.
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Old 03-21-2009, 12:14 PM #5
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i change my dwell depending on temperature..the paint im useing..mositure in the air... with n 08 ego anywere from 11ms to 15-16 ms

my 09 isnt brokn in yet so havent fiddled with that yet
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Old 03-21-2009, 12:24 PM #6
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The Ego9 is the only Ego where it is ok to turn the LPR beyond 2 turns in.

However, if you go in too far, you will press the reg seat seal against the reg seat, which can score the surface of the seal or dislodge it.

This is also the reason that you shouldn't screw the HPR adjuster screw all the way in - the same thing can happen to the HPR reg seat seal.
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Old 03-21-2009, 02:10 PM #7
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good job
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Old 03-30-2009, 08:37 PM #8
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anymore

Do you have anymore tuning tips for the Dbounce and and the rest of the filter settings?
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Old 03-31-2009, 12:33 AM #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adamnewff View Post
i change my dwell depending on temperature..the paint im useing..mositure in the air... with n 08 ego anywere from 11ms to 15-16 ms

my 09 isnt brokn in yet so havent fiddled with that yet
the dwelling on the 08 will be way different then the 09 cuz of the QEV
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Old 03-31-2009, 06:52 AM #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 415Nor*Cal{PRC} View Post
Do you have anymore tuning tips for the Dbounce and and the rest of the filter settings?
Leave them stock....unless your chopping or breaking paint in the gun there's no reason to change them. The stock settings come from PE's methodical testing.
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Old 03-31-2009, 11:41 AM #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HYDE - Team Mayhem View Post
Leave them stock....unless your chopping or breaking paint in the gun there's no reason to change them. The stock settings come from PE's methodical testing.
Yeah, I've never had to change my settings. A lot of people receive problems once they start playing around with the filter settings. Stock settings work the best.
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Old 04-09-2009, 11:30 AM #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HYDE - Team Mayhem View Post
Leave them stock....unless your chopping or breaking paint in the gun there's no reason to change them. The stock settings come from PE's methodical testing.
The adjustments listed above has been recommended by PE to attempt to fix a specific issue the '09 is having.
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Old 04-09-2009, 12:15 PM #13
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Right, but it doesn't mention anything about tuning Dbounce and and the rest of the filter settings....that was his question. Should he change those settings....
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Old 04-27-2009, 11:24 AM #14
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To add to this tuning guide, I developed a more exact way to help set your dwell. Depending on if you have the time and a laptop, this Excel file will help you set your dwell correctly based on more exact calculations (averages).

Basically it does all of the calculations to help you sweet spot your dwell. All you have to do it sit in front of a chrono with a laptop and hammer the readings in. Time consuming? Yes, but its dead on.

You can download the worksheet and our results (last two tabs) directly from this link:

-Dwell Setting Excel Program-

-Click the link and choose SAVE.
-Enter all values in the blue highlighted boxes.
-Set the LPR first; keep the dwell at the stock 10.5ms; chrono until you reach an average of 290fps in cell B35. You may have to take several sets of readings to get the first column to average out to the desired FPS.
-When you reach 290fps, lower your dwell to 10ms, fire several shots to reset the dwell and take the second set of readings in column C.
-Continue the process of lowering the dwell in .5ms increments, shooting several shots to reset the dwell and take a new set of readings.
-Once the delta (or change from the original 290fps) in row 36 hits a value of -10 (~ 280 fps), a note in row 38 will pop up instructing the user to stop and increase their dwell by .5ms.
-Your dwell has then been set to your custom “sweet spot”.

Myself and another team member tested this file yesterday with our two Egos and it worked like a charm. I started the tuning guide at an average of 288fps and landed at a dwell of 8.5. My teammate started at an average of 291fps and landed at a dwell of 8.0.

We both started with our dwell at 10.5ms and 1 turn in on the LPR. I have the new smaller inner diameter solenoid barb installed and we both just installed the Cure 3 bolt. After tuning both markers, they shot beautifully.

After shooting nearly two cases yesterday, I pulled the rammer out to check the o-rings. The new solenoid barb and lower dwell seems to have fixed any o-ring shredding issues. Here's what my rammer looked like after installing the new solenoid barb and lowering my dwell:
-New Ego 09 shredding o-rings thread-

After following this performance guide and lowering my dwell to 8.5, I wanted to test efficiency so I filled up my tank to 3250psi and got 1350 shots. That calculates to 1869 shots on a true 4500psi fill.

After providing feedback to PE on the new solenoid barb and tuning results, they find that to be great efficiency.

On a side note, all testing was done at New Breed Paintball in West Milford, NJ. Thanks to Sky and Joe for their help.
This is a great field with a new, all grass, regulation size X-Ball field opening on June 6th and 7th. Check them out!
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Last edited by HYDE - Team Mayhem : 09-09-2009 at 10:43 AM. Reason: Updated link for file download
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Old 04-27-2009, 11:33 AM #15
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Glad to see someone else out there is trying to figure out their paintball marker's settings using logic and math.
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Old 04-27-2009, 08:59 PM #16
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couldn`t open your worksheet, it said it was password protected.
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Old 04-27-2009, 09:05 PM #17
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couldn`t open your worksheet, it said it was password protected.
It's not. Download the latest update for Microsoft Office or get Office 2007.
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Old 04-27-2009, 09:44 PM #18
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Also note that you should set your dwell 1-2 ms above "optimal" to shoot more brittle paint.
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Old 04-28-2009, 07:41 AM #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaxsdad View Post
couldn`t open your worksheet, it said it was password protected.
Just tested it again, it's not password protected to download or open the file, the file is password protected from making any changes other than in the blue boxes. If you type anywhere but in the blue boxes a note will tell you that it's protected. This is so the formulas don't accidentially get deleted or overwritten.

Click the link and a pop-up will ask you if you want to open or save the file.
Save the file to your desktop then open it from there. It should open without any problems and there will be four tabs:

1) Nicky T's instructions
2) Actual Worksheet for Tuning
3) My results
4) Teammate's results
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Old 05-31-2009, 07:03 AM #20
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Can someone confirm LPR adjustment:
- so if I want to configure LPR, then first I should screw in LPR-screw to very end to get "FLUSH" position (start position). Then from this "start" position I have to screw out for 2 ½ turns to get appropriete adjustment?

After that, next is inline and dwell adjustment!

Is this OK?
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Old 05-31-2009, 07:43 AM #21
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turn the screw counter-wise until it comes out and is flush with the end of the LPR cap. From there, turn the screw clockwise so it moves in towards the body of the marker. I believe 2.5 turns in is the maximum and was not recommended. Turn it in 1 turn or 2.
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