There are two advantages you get with this modification, the first will allow your hopper to max your markers top potential speed from the first shot to the last without any delays in the rate of fire. Like if you have your marker set to ramp at 20bps, it will allow your marker to shoot 20bps from the first shot to the last. It will always apply enough pressure to the balls to get them in as fast as your marker will let them. The second modification will give you complete control of how much pressure your cone will apply to the stack of balls.. It will keep your cone from winding up far enough that it will push balls past your detents. And the b2 board plays a crucial role in preventing the cone from smashing paintballs when it is at rest while being fully wound and reacts to sounds other than shots. So remember before you consider doing this mod that the b2 board is required.
Last warning, if you do not have the b2 in your hopper, this mod may turn your hopper into a blender because the cone will be wound up all the way at all times, so any extra attempts the motor makes to turn cone will be smashing into the paintballs. The b2 has a tension monitor mode that stops the motor from pushing while fully wound.
Step one: Make sure you have what you need for this mod. You will need a b2 board, a delrin feedcone, a drill with a bit the same size around as the pin under your delrin cone., and a couple pins the same size as the stock pin that is already in the cone.
Step 2: use a non permanent marker to draw a circle around the clear spring tray on the bottom of the cone so any drill holes will be in the right spot for the pins.
Step 3: determine if your marker has weak or strong ball detents.
Step A: If you have weak detents that hate strong cone pressure, then place a mark on the other side of the bottom of the cone directly across from the stock pin within the circle drawn. Drill a shallow hole that is just deep enough to hold the first extra pin tight. The pin must still almost reach the bottom of the clear spring tray underneath.
Step B: If you have strong detents that stand up to fully wound hoppers, first place the cone upside down and have the cone set so the stock pin is at the bottom. Place a mark 2 paddles up within the circle drawn and to the left from the stock pin while facing the bottom side of the cone..Drill a shallow hole that is just deep enough so the pin fits tight. The pin must almost touch the bottom of the clear spring tray underneath.
Step 4: After drilling the holes , install your pin. Put your cone into the tray and wind it up. First you have to get the stock pin over the tab on the tray like normal, then keep winding the cone till it stops at the next pin. Once again lift the cone and get it over the tab without letting the spring come unwound. Make sure it is functional by turning the cone back all the rest of the way and letting go, it shound spin back till unwound. Now take the cone back out.
Step 5: You will now place another mark one more paddle up on the same side as previous pin between the two pins. Drll hole and put another pin there.
Step 6: All that is left to do is install the cone.. Put the cone into your maker. Get the first pin over the tab on the clear spring tray,(note, the 3rd pin may have to be lifted up over tab making sure it doesn’t catch the spring going over, the stock spring must be the first to grab the spring.) Then get the 2nd pin over the tab increasing the spring tension.
Now you must put the screw back on top of the cone and assemble your hopper and you’re done. I will make a video soon of me modding my other reloader b.
Here is a pic of where pins go and if you can read it, it has brief instructions.
for markers with strong detents, simply place pins a half a paddles distance further.
EDIT:note, this is the top of the cone, the underside is where you will be drilling holes so just place the holes and pins opposite from where you see on diagram.