*If you do not know much, or anything about Autocockers, do not do ANYTHING to the gun until you've fully read the manual, searched this forum, and more importantly, the Autocockers forum. Although this gun is NOT an autococker, it is an exact replica, and should be treated as such in regards to maintenance, repairs, etc etc.
Here is what I've come up with for the Drallion, by doing extensive SEARCHING. You know, like, clicking on this button
The Drallons Specs:
All Cocker Compatible
Sensor Eye Upgradeable (you can use TES eye parts for it)
Comes with D-Reg and Drop/ASA
Custom 3-D Milling (orracle)
E-Frame (not tourney legal out of the box. Minor mod required)
Quick Release Bolt (still unsure of what type/year bolt this is)
What I've learned:
For the ACE (anti-chop eye) kit, you need to order the following parts from OGI:
Eye with eye wire #ZPTS1-70
Eye Board #ZPTS1-69
Eye Cover #ZPTS1-24
Eye cover screw #ZPTS1-23
Eye board to LCD wire #ZPTS1-72
(this info thanks to "the trooper", along with the how-to below)
Prices were omitted due to them being dealer cost prices, and therefore priveldged information.
You need to take the small board from your TES and plug it into you new board. Here's what you will unplug:
Unplug the battery from new board, and leave the battery plug from your old TES on the eye board.(just remember where it went on the on the new board.)
Unplug the trigger wire from the new board and plug it in on the eye board.(just remember where it went on the old TES board, so you won't get confused)
Best thing to do is unplug from one gun and plug in from the next. Take the LCD screen off of both to make this easier. If you have troubles PM "the trooper".
Issue of Full-Auto on the board, and its tourney-illegal nature:
(thanks to godp777)
The Drallion comes with a button on the frame, that anytime during gameplay, you can press for full-auto firing. That makes the gun tourney, and I'm sure many fields illegal.
Here is what you do:
1. visit this site, read everything carefully. Follow the intructions. http://www.geocities.com/godp777/
If you experience chopping, or double feeding:
(thanks to "disra")
"The gun seems to chop and doublefeed unless you set the dwell to .05ms or higher. The dwell is preset at 0ms and it doesn't keep the valve open long enough."
So what do you do? Up your dwell to at least .05ms (milliseconds), and see if that remedies your problem. If it does not, you can try this option:
Turn up your LPR a little, to make sure the bolt has enough pressure to move it back and forth. You may be thinking, "If I have the bolt pressure up, it may chop more!"... and you're right, it MAY. But the thing is, if the pressure isn't high enough to fully cycle the gun, it may still be high enough to pinch those misfed balls, so therefore if you turned DOWN your LPR, you're doing more harm than good. Turn up that LPR and see if your misfeeding problems go away.
Takes all standard Autococker grip frames. You could easily mod the Drallion to be a mechanical gun, but removing the electronics, and putting on a sliding or hinge trigger frame, and a 3way valve. With WGP front block pneumatics, and a WGP hinge frame, this drallion will look exactly like an Orracle
Thats all I can think of for now, post things you'd like added, and once I add them, just delete your post. You will be accredited.