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Old 05-03-2004, 04:08 PM #1
Fatty
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Post Drallion Info (condensed info, BS free)

***VERY IMPORTANT***
*If you do not know much, or anything about Autocockers, do not do ANYTHING to the gun until you've fully read the manual, searched this forum, and more importantly, the Autocockers forum. Although this gun is NOT an autococker, it is an exact replica, and should be treated as such in regards to maintenance, repairs, etc etc.

Here is what I've come up with for the Drallion, by doing extensive SEARCHING. You know, like, clicking on this button

The Drallons Specs:

Closed-Bolt Operation
All Cocker Compatible
20 BPS
Sensor Eye Upgradeable (you can use TES eye parts for it)
Comes with D-Reg and Drop/ASA
Custom 3-D Milling (orracle)
E-Frame (not tourney legal out of the box. Minor mod required)
Dust Finish
Quick Release Bolt (still unsure of what type/year bolt this is)

What I've learned:

For the ACE (anti-chop eye) kit, you need to order the following parts from OGI:

Eye with eye wire #ZPTS1-70
Eye Board #ZPTS1-69
Eye Cover #ZPTS1-24
Eye cover screw #ZPTS1-23
Eye board to LCD wire #ZPTS1-72
(this info thanks to "the trooper", along with the how-to below)

Prices were omitted due to them being dealer cost prices, and therefore priveldged information.

Instructions:

You need to take the small board from your TES and plug it into you new board. Here's what you will unplug:
New Board.
Unplug the battery from new board, and leave the battery plug from your old TES on the eye board.(just remember where it went on the on the new board.)
Unplug the trigger wire from the new board and plug it in on the eye board.(just remember where it went on the old TES board, so you won't get confused)
Best thing to do is unplug from one gun and plug in from the next. Take the LCD screen off of both to make this easier. If you have troubles PM "the trooper".

Issue of Full-Auto on the board, and its tourney-illegal nature: (thanks to godp777)

The Drallion comes with a button on the frame, that anytime during gameplay, you can press for full-auto firing. That makes the gun tourney, and I'm sure many fields illegal.

Here is what you do:

1. visit this site, read everything carefully. Follow the intructions. http://www.geocities.com/godp777/
2.
3. Profit.

If you experience chopping, or double feeding:
(thanks to "disra")
"The gun seems to chop and doublefeed unless you set the dwell to .05ms or higher. The dwell is preset at 0ms and it doesn't keep the valve open long enough."

So what do you do? Up your dwell to at least .05ms (milliseconds), and see if that remedies your problem. If it does not, you can try this option:

Turn up your LPR a little, to make sure the bolt has enough pressure to move it back and forth. You may be thinking, "If I have the bolt pressure up, it may chop more!"... and you're right, it MAY. But the thing is, if the pressure isn't high enough to fully cycle the gun, it may still be high enough to pinch those misfed balls, so therefore if you turned DOWN your LPR, you're doing more harm than good. Turn up that LPR and see if your misfeeding problems go away.

GRIP FRAME:

Takes all standard Autococker grip frames. You could easily mod the Drallion to be a mechanical gun, but removing the electronics, and putting on a sliding or hinge trigger frame, and a 3way valve. With WGP front block pneumatics, and a WGP hinge frame, this drallion will look exactly like an Orracle

Thats all I can think of for now, post things you'd like added, and once I add them, just delete your post. You will be accredited.

Dave
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Last edited by Fatty : 05-08-2004 at 09:21 PM.
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Old 05-20-2004, 08:42 PM #2
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I hate the stock trigger! how can you walk that? I just got a checkit sweet spot stick trigger. Walking the trigger is fun...I can't do it really good on the drallion yet because I'm used to the 50g microswitch on my JT6, but that will soon change.
Has anyone seen the 03 autococker? It's the body as the 03 but with pneus in the front
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Old 05-20-2004, 09:04 PM #3
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so the check it sweet spot trigger works...sweet i have to get a red one..also yeah i seen the o3 mechanical its sweet i wanna see that thing with an eblade on it..
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Old 05-22-2004, 09:34 PM #4
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hey Godp have you adjusted the trigger at all? I dont know how to do it
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Old 05-22-2004, 09:46 PM #5
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I don't see anything that allows you to adjust the trigger. Doesn't really matter now I guess, but mine didn't come with anything like that. Then again mine came with NOTHING! they lied to me
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Old 07-08-2004, 08:12 AM #6
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Stock trigger is not adjustable, but if it works in a TES, it'll work in the Drallion. I know, cause I just converted mine last night, and modded the switch. My TES roxxorz

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Old 07-08-2004, 11:25 AM #7
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So fatty, I have a question, with my new trigger, I can walk it, but not very easily... I want to mod the switch. How hard is it to get those pins out? I don't want to screw them up like I did with the frame pin!

Anyway, I love my drallion, I've played 6 games with it, kicked ***, and now there is a video coming with paint!
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Old 07-08-2004, 12:34 PM #8
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You need to mod the switch. Damn them for using pics and not screws, like the TES has. My TES switch mod was much easier (also 2nd time doing it).

You WILL scratch your frame when removing the switch pins, I would stake $1 on it. Its just one of those things that Dragun did to make our lives a pain in the but. If they used STANDARD pins, and not the flared ones, they'd come out and go in way easier, and hold out just fine.

They are pretty slick, eh? I prefer mine as a mech, I can shoot it damned fast.

Dave
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Old 07-08-2004, 12:49 PM #9
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Alright... But I painted my grips, so it will be covered!

Oh, man, yes! I can't believe I paitd 285 for it! I would be glad to shell out the 525 original price for one! I just need a lighter switch, but I am hitting 12-15...

Wait, so you can't get a new switch for it? How do you mod it?
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Old 07-16-2004, 10:16 PM #10
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Questions about full-auto mod

I tried doing this but when I looked, there was no jumper. I was under the impression I just took one that was there and moved it. I guess I'm wrong? Where can I get a the right size jumper for this?

Also, is it real auto or auto like on the TES which makes it just more responsive?
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Old 07-17-2004, 07:20 AM #11
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ok i am going to have to edit my website soon because i have been getting an insane amount of emails about the diode dohicky....so here it goes just go to radio shack and get the smallest diode they have there and that will work .....either look at the diodes or look for micro diodes some stores have stuff others don't....and just get the smallest they have....
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Old 08-16-2004, 08:23 PM #12
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putting a new microswitch will make the Drallion a lot faster, but the stock parts can't keep up. I noticed a huge difference putting on the SMC ram and a regular pump arm. I hate the stock arm that puts more weight buy using the adapter.
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Old 08-16-2004, 08:25 PM #13
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Really, mine keeps up at the cap with the stock ram (lubed).
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Old 08-16-2004, 09:04 PM #14
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Are you sure your hitting the cap?
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Old 08-16-2004, 10:42 PM #15
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auto20, fully cycling... Just had to sweetspot everything, and lube the ram good.
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Old 08-17-2004, 01:53 PM #16
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Re: Questions about full-auto mod

Quote:
Originally posted by jim_dailey
I tried doing this but when I looked, there was no jumper. I was under the impression I just took one that was there and moved it. I guess I'm wrong? Where can I get a the right size jumper for this?

Also, is it real auto or auto like on the TES which makes it just more responsive?
I didn't even use a jumper..i cut a piece of wire and stripped the ends and stuck it in..works fine.
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Old 08-17-2004, 05:14 PM #17
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Godp777, do you still have yours?

I am fully pimping mine out over the winter when I have a job! I cant wait. I will write a super review after I am done with it.
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Old 08-18-2004, 04:15 PM #18
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To put what on an 03/04?
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Old 09-02-2004, 07:44 PM #19
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50g microswitch is giving me problems, I'm bouncing sometimes which causes the Drallion to short stroke. I'm going to try a 180g switch. What do you guys think?
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Old 09-02-2004, 07:50 PM #20
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That should be fine... But I would suggest buying the t-board when it comes out. It wont shoot in classic mode like the stok which means no short stroking.
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Old 09-04-2004, 01:07 PM #21
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just got a e-mail back from scenario dreams and they said that the t-board wont work with autococking type markers because it has no front solienoid connecter
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