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Old 12-14-2008, 08:19 PM #22
madgunner4
 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lsongj721 View Post
Thats just stuff you gota put up with with on pbnation.

A skilled person with a dremel would be able to fix anything lol
Yea, I know. And so true about he dremel.
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Old 12-14-2008, 08:48 PM #23
hansolo8221
 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charger View Post
one major problem I can see.. looks like he cut off where the ram is suposed to screw into the front block area.. so attaching the ram with anything other then glue is going ot be a problem...


Well, you could cut the whole front section off the Trilogy and tap it to take a standard cocker front block.

To the OP, if you don't know what it would take to fix it, you probably shouldn't trade for it. Someone with the proper tools and know-how could certainly turn that back into a halfway decent marker. However, right now it looks like it was raped by a Dremel and a tube of JBWeld.

As for what it would take, here's what I would do:

1: rip that ram off the side of the body. That type of mod has been done before (and it is the factory setup of a Palmer Blazer), but it's not worth it. The possible benefits of it are negligible. You saved yourself a few grams of reciprocating weight by removing the pump arm, but you've hurt your overall possible cycles per second because that is the ****ty stock ram. Simply using a better ram on a standard frontblock mount will be faster and a cleaner setup. The other problem with that ram placement is the routing of the air lines. Obviously, to shorten the air lines, he placed the solenoid on the left side near the ram. This is also a negative, I'm going with mostly because it looks like crap, and leads us to step #2;

2: rip the solenoid off the side of the gun. GENTLY; the JBweld should break free, and you don't want to damage the solenoid.

3. as mentioned, he cut the standard ram mount off the body, so I would cut off the whole ASA section and replace it with a standard front block. Get a standard LPR and a better ram, and mount it up with the Eblade noid. You will also need to get a pump arm.

4. Throw out the backblock and bolt, and get a nice delrin sled and bolt that matches it.

5. He mentioned he slotted the hammer too far and "shimmed" it with JBweld; I'm betting that will break off after a little use, you'll want to buy a new, professionally slotted hammer. Or just go ahead and throw an 11/16" MQ2 valve in there.

6. Finish midgetizing the back, tapping in the IVG threads, and get a proper spring cut to the right length, or just install the MQ2 valve I mentioned and you won't need to worry about the hammer or springs.

7. Clean up the upper section of the lower tube on the back (where the sled travels). From the pic it looks really uneven; I'm betting he did the whole thing with a Dremel.

8. Finish cutting down and narrowing the diameter of the feedneck, so it will take an Ego feedneck. This should actually be the #1 thing to do; sure he said he aired it up and it cycles, but as of right now it has NO feedneck, so it's pretty much a hacked-up electronic paperweight.

9. You'll also want a decent reg and ASA for it

10. If you want eyes, first you will have to acquire the eye and eye cover, and then drill and tap the body for it

11. After you're done with everything else, I'd strip the spray paint off it and have it annodized.
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Old 12-14-2008, 08:52 PM #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hansolo8221 View Post
Well, you could cut the whole front section off the Trilogy and tap it to take a standard cocker front block.

To the OP, if you don't know what it would take to fix it, you probably shouldn't trade for it. Someone with the proper tools and know-how could certainly turn that back into a halfway decent marker. However, right now it looks like it was raped by a Dremel and a tube of JBWeld.

As for what it would take, here's what I would do:

1: rip that ram off the side of the body. That type of mod has been done before (and it is the factory setup of a Palmer Blazer), but it's not worth it. The possible benefits of it are negligible. You saved yourself a few grams of reciprocating weight by removing the pump arm, but you've hurt your overall possible cycles per second because that is the ****ty stock ram. Simply using a better ram on a standard frontblock mount will be faster and a cleaner setup. The other problem with that ram placement is the routing of the air lines. Obviously, to shorten the air lines, he placed the solenoid on the left side near the ram. This is also a negative, I'm going with mostly because it looks like crap, and leads us to step #2;

2: rip the solenoid off the side of the gun. GENTLY; the JBweld should break free, and you don't want to damage the solenoid.

3. as mentioned, he cut the standard ram mount off the body, so I would cut off the whole ASA section and replace it with a standard front block. Get a standard LPR and a better ram, and mount it up with the Eblade noid. You will also need to get a pump arm.

4. Throw out the backblock and bolt, and get a nice delrin sled and bolt that matches it.

5. He mentioned he slotted the hammer too far and "shimmed" it with JBweld; I'm betting that will break off after a little use, you'll want to buy a new, professionally slotted hammer. Or just go ahead and throw an 11/16" MQ2 valve in there.

6. Finish midgetizing the back, tapping in the IVG threads, and get a proper spring cut to the right length, or just install the MQ2 valve I mentioned and you won't need to worry about the hammer or springs.

7. Clean up the upper section of the lower tube on the back (where the sled travels). From the pic it looks really uneven; I'm betting he did the whole thing with a Dremel.

8. Finish cutting down and narrowing the diameter of the feedneck, so it will take an Ego feedneck. This should actually be the #1 thing to do; sure he said he aired it up and it cycles, but as of right now it has NO feedneck, so it's pretty much a hacked-up electronic paperweight.

9. You'll also want a decent reg and ASA for it

10. If you want eyes, first you will have to acquire the eye and eye cover, and then drill and tap the body for it

11. After you're done with everything else, I'd strip the spray paint off it and have it annodized.
Yea, I was thinking about doing that with the front-block. Guy's, I know this looks like crap, I'm not saying I think it looks good or that I'm proud of it's ghettoness, I was just bored and did this.

Last edited by madgunner4 : 12-14-2008 at 08:56 PM.
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Old 12-14-2008, 08:56 PM #25
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No need to defend yourself to me, I was answering the OP's questions. He asked what it would take to fix it, so I answered him. If you wanted to sell your Trilogy you shouldn't have cut the crap out of it in the first place.
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Old 12-14-2008, 08:58 PM #26
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Originally Posted by hansolo8221 View Post
No need to defend yourself to me, I was answering the OP's questions. He asked what it would take to fix it, so I answered him. If you wanted to sell your Trilogy you shouldn't have cut the crap out of it in the first place.
Yea, I know. About selling the trilogy, I didn't originally plan on selling it, I just didn't have the time or money to do it the "correct" way.
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Old 12-14-2008, 09:00 PM #27
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it says thats only the eblade...
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Old 12-14-2008, 09:06 PM #28
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Originally Posted by DAVEY BOY View Post
it says thats only the eblade...
Yea, because I'm just parting out the e-blade now.
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