Alright guys, I see people asking questions about how to fix problem x on their sniper and when those of us with more experience try to explain what to do they people don't even know how to access their valve or what the various parts are. I'm hoping to correct that with this guide. I'm going to do a step by step of how to access your valve and most of the internals, show what each part is, and give an exploded view of the inside of a sniper. Hopefully we can point newbies in this direction to help them out in the future.
DISASSEMBLING YOUR SNIPER
: Assembling your tools.
To do all this you need a few things. First of all you need a set of standard (non-metric) Allen aka Hex wrenches. Which sizes you will need will vary from sniper to sniper (different companies use different sizes). Ideally you should pick up a full set of nice ball-ended. You can find these at any hardware store for under $10 and will make working on your sniper infinitely easier by allowing you to work on screws from an angle.
Second you will need a standard autococker valve tool. This is absolutely essential for getting your valve out. It's not even worth the bother of trying to make one. Pick up a decent tool like the one New Designz makes for $10 or $15 and it will last you the rest of your life.
Third you need a CLEAN work space. We'll be working with a few small pieces and it's quite easy to loose them (believe me). You will want a large clean table, workbench, etc. where you can set everything out and not loose it.
Fourth and finally you will need your sniper... DUH!
The Sniper We Will Be Working On
: Removing your trigger frame.
For most snipers, the screws holding your trigger frame will require a standard 1/8 allen wrench. If you have ball headed wrenches this will be much easier for you as you can turn them from and angle to work around the trigger guard. However, you do it though, simply remove the two screws at the front and back of the trigger frame as shown in the pictures. One your frame is free it might still be attached by the bottomline running to the regulator. If this is the case you can either unscrew the bottomline from the frame the same way, unplug the macroline (if your sniper is using macroline), or unscrew the regulator from the rest of the sniper. Which you do is entirely personal preference
The magical 1/8 ball-headed allen wrench
Removing the front screw
Removing the rear screw
The frame free from the rest of the marker
: Removing your cocking rod.
This step is easy enough. You simply need to unscrew the cocking rod found below the bolt. It may be held in very tight depending on it's make and who installed it, but it WILL unscrew. If the head of the cocking rod starts to unscrew from the rod itself, then tighten the small setscrew in the head of the cocking rod, then keep trying to unscrew the rod as a whole. If you find the rod completely unremovable here's a little trick that might mar the finish but with almost certainly get it out. Take a pair of wire cutters and use the circular guide (BEFORE the cutting blades) to grip the head of the cocking rod better.
Our cocking rod
The cocking rod unscrewed
: Removing your bolt.
This should be the EASIEST step in the entire disassembly. Simply remove the pullpin from the bolt and the bolt should slid right out of the marker. Pull pins vary widely and some require pushing a button to remove them while some just require a good strong tug.
Removing the pull pin
The bolt & cocking rod removed from the backblock
: Removing your backblock.
This is another easy step. Just stick your finger into where the bolt just came out and rotate the backblock. It should easily unscrew from the rod holding it onto the marker.
(Alternative Method): As an alternative method. It is possible with some pump kits to simply rotate the backblock 1/2 and pull it away from the body, then slide the backblock, pump rod, & pump handle off as one entire assembly. I am personally not fond of this method as I always feel like I am putting stress on the threads of the pump handle. Many people report preferring this method however. Which you choose to use is entirely up to you. -Thanks to ApoC 101
: Removing your pump handle.
Another easy step. The pump handle and pump rod (what the backblock was attached to) should now easily pull off the front of your sniper.
Just pull it right off!
: Removing your IVG.
Your IVG acts as a back to the spring that drives the hammer in your sniper. Screwing it in further will increase tension on the hammer and make it hit the valve harder & thus make your sniper shoot harder. Removing your IVG will depend on what type it is. If it is a CCM IVG you can use a standard 1/8 allen wrench in the little holes around the outside of the wrench and just unscrew it right out of the body. If it is a standard IVG you can use a 3/16 allen wrench in the hole that the cocking rod came out of, and again just unscrew it right out of the body.
Additional Information: If your sniper is already nicely tuned, then make sure you take note of how many turns it takes you to unscrew the IVG when you are removing it. When you reassemble the sniper, you can simply screw it in that many turns and skip the step of having to adjust the IVG depth. -Thanks to ApoC 101
The IVG hiding in that bottom tube
My 1/8 allen in the outer hole of my CCM IVG
A standard IVG with a 3/16 allen in the center (just for reference)
: Removing your mainspring.
Your main spring which is held in by the IVG we just removed should now fall right out of the back of your sniper. This spring is one of the primary two ways to adjust the velocity on your sniper. By increasing it's tension via the IVG it makes the hammer hit the valve harder thus allowing more air through.
There it is!
It falls right out of the marker with the IVG gone!