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Old 04-01-2006, 11:26 PM #85
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Ok thanks.
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Old 04-01-2006, 11:30 PM #86
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It all depends on if money is a factor. Try calling JT and ask if you can get a mechanical JT frame. If not, Spyder frames should fit without modding.

If you want a whole different (mechanical) marker, Tippmanns are excellent choices.
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Old 04-02-2006, 11:37 AM #87
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And all this will help me shoot faster?
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Old 04-02-2006, 11:55 AM #88
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You want to shoot faster then get a Spyder E-Frame or T-Board the stock frame. Mechanicals are usually slower than electros.
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Old 04-02-2006, 01:09 PM #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glaman5266
You want to shoot faster then get a Spyder E-Frame or T-Board the stock frame. *Mechanicals are usually slower than electros*.
Yes, I knew that, that's why I got an electric marker. You know what, I think I'm just gonna save up and by a 98 custom off of E-Bay.
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Old 04-03-2006, 08:01 AM #90
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OK. Good luck w/your 98C.

I suggested the Spyder mechanical frame because I find the JT electro frame to be very slow (you can't walk it). I can shoot just as fast w/a mechanical as I can w/my Excellerator.
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Old 05-07-2006, 08:33 PM #91
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HELP I have a excellerator 5.0 when i shot it whit a full 20 oz co2 ( whitout anti-syphon) it only shot 1 ball and doesn't recock??? the serial number is B18778 what should I do????
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Old 05-08-2006, 09:39 AM #92
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When you fire it, does the bolt go forward and stop or does it make the classic BRAAAP noise?
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Old 07-03-2006, 05:53 PM #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TAK5
HELP I have a excellerator 5.0 when i shot it whit a full 20 oz co2 ( whitout anti-syphon) it only shot 1 ball and doesn't recock??? the serial number is B18778 what should I do????
i think i had the same problem. when i took apart my gun the striker bolt o-ring was broken, once i fixed that it seemed to be functioning correctly.
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Old 07-07-2006, 08:34 PM #94
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hi
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Old 07-08-2006, 08:55 AM #95
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hi
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Old 08-02-2006, 03:12 PM #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Soledus
i think i had the same problem. when i took apart my gun the striker bolt o-ring was broken, once i fixed that it seemed to be functioning correctly.
Yup. Change the o-rings and lube it. And don't be afraid to drench the bolt and hammer- this is one of those markers that I find the more lube you use, the better it performs. However, you can overdo it just like any other marker, which would not be good...
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Old 04-08-2007, 02:21 AM #97
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If anyone needs any help at all with JT Excellerators feel free to PM me. I will help best I can.
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Old 04-22-2007, 05:14 PM #98
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What boards can I fit into a Excellorator 3.5.
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Old 10-29-2008, 03:59 PM #99
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Dealer Application:

Hi!
I sent email to info@jt-sports.com for Dealer Application, But I didnt recieve any answer. Is there any email of a person who can help?
Thanks a lot.
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Old 10-30-2008, 08:24 PM #100
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big problems

i bought this gun a while ago used from a friend of mine and have never been able to get it working right
i dont know what version i have
i am mechanically inclined but am fairly new to paintball
i have dissasembled and cleaned the gun several times and these are the problems

i have alot of breaks in the gun
when i tried to fire the gun today none of the balls would go through my barrel they would just stick at the end (stock JT barrel)
so i fiddled with the velocity screw on the back ( the big hex screw) and now my gun will just rapid fire without me touching the trigger i cant turn the gun off when it is doing this and i cant put the safety on the only thing i can do is remove the tank
any and all help would be appreciated immensely i would like to finally go and not have to rent a damn tippmen 95 and be able to use my own gun
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Old 11-01-2008, 04:26 PM #101
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up: stupid kid who sold the gun to me had the bolt upsidown went to a scenario today and it worked great
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Old 12-01-2008, 02:11 PM #102
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I received a used 3.0 the other day and i decided to test it out and here are the problems. Co2 is leaking from the barrel and from the actual bottle connection, and the feeder tube was lost before i got it. so should i just toss it or would it be worth keeping and fixing.
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Old 12-01-2008, 11:06 PM #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmac2488 View Post
I received a used 3.0 the other day and i decided to test it out and here are the problems. Co2 is leaking from the barrel and from the actual bottle connection, and the feeder tube was lost before i got it. so should i just toss it or would it be worth keeping and fixing.
A dry valve cupseal is what's allowing the co2 to leak from the barrel. Disassemble it and lube the cupseal- that should fix it. If you can't find the cupseal Google Search for an assembly schematic- a standard Spyder schematic should do.

The leak from the bottle means your bottle o-ring is worn out and not sealing. Simply replace with a new one.

The feedneck is missing, eh? Was it held in place with 2 screws or are there threads in the body for it to screw in?
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Old 12-03-2008, 06:33 PM #104
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its threaded.
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Old 12-04-2008, 02:20 PM #105
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it shoots wonderfully now. any suggestions on the feedneck replacement
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