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Old 05-04-2004, 06:45 PM #1
Conqueror
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Wgp Forum FAQ

There are already FAQ threads for mechanical and electronic autocockers, so those threads can be found here:

Mech Cockers

E-Cockers

Everyone who posts in the WGP forum should have read these FAQs; any threads which could have been answered by reading the FAQs will be closed and the thread starter will be warned.

Any contributions you have to the mech/e-cocker FAQs should be made in those threads; any FAQ information on WGP's OTHER products (ranger, regs, etc) can be put here.

CQ

Last edited by Conqueror : 05-04-2004 at 06:49 PM.
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Old 01-24-2006, 10:07 PM #2
CoreyGill
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Couple of FAQs I’ve seen around…so made a little FAQ since WGP doesn’t really have one…

Whats the difference between an 04 and 05 prostock?

- In 04 the prostock came with all nickel parts…inline, unimount, adjustable lpr, ram, and 3 way vs. the 05’s front pneumatics and inline and integrated rail are anodized black
- In 04 the prostock came with a strait ASA, standard back block, and standard front block, aluminum bolt, and the standard WGP hinge frame where the 05 comes with a 15* ASA, P-Block design, and WGP’s “Cam Lock” front block, a delrin bolt and pull-pin, and a redesigned grip frame
- Milling. The 04 had some CNC milling on the body and the sight rail hump milled into the back. The 05 prostock has no sight rail, a good bit more CNC milling and windows milled into the body
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What makes a Karni Different from any other E-bladed Autococker?

-Milling. The Karni has “scales” milled into the side of it which sets it apart from any other marker on the market today
- The Karni comes with the internal cocking system which keeps the cocking rod from sticking out of the back and keeps it from loosening up during play.
- Reverse ASA to keep your elbows tucked in for tighter play and a more ergonomically correct shooting position
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What kind of feedneck can I put on my Cocker?

-Unless you have an 05 prostock, Vertibrate, a Black Magic, a Karni, STO, an Orry, or you’ve gotten your feedneck threaded, then your cocker has a pressed on feedneck. You can get your feedneck threaded by a number of different companies including WGP or you can get one repressed on (I know FBM does it)
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Where can I pick up a Karni Front Block?

-The Answer is you cant. WGP will not sell them, and without some body modification it wont work anyways.
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Can I use CO2 on my new WGP cocker

- When properly filled, a CO2 tanks contents are about 68% liquid, which means that with a bottom-line setup even if the marker is level, liquid CO2 will still flow into the marker causing it to freeze and the velocity to spike up and down. CO2 is generally not as clean as compressed air or nitrogen so it can put more wear and tear on some of the markers parts, especially in the inline regulator and the cup seal. The worst that can happen as a result of CO2 use is that the cup seal could develop a leak or the inline regulator may begin to leak or spike. Any problems that may develop as a result of CO2 usage are usually relatively easy fixes. The bottom line is that in most cases CO2 will get the job done, but if you want to tweak the most performance possible out of your Cocker then Compressed air is defiantly the way to go.
(that was for a mech cocker)
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Did WGP make _____ Marker?

Heres a list of WGP markers I can think of…not 100% sure this is all of them but its close…this is in no specific order

Mechanical

Autococker
VF
VF-Tactical
Prostock
Minicocker
Orracle
Mini Orracle
MI Orracle
Vertibrate
STO
Outcast
Black Magic
Mini Black Magic
Flatline Autococker
Trilogy Pro
Trilogy Competition
Trilogy Sport
Trilogy Tactical
Ranger
T-Ranger
BOSS X-Raider
BOSS Knight Raider

Electronic

Karni
E-Class Orracle
Mini E-Orracle
Worrlock
Nightcast
Superstock
E-class Naughy Dogs
Black Magic SF
Trilogy SF
E-Ranger

Pump
Sniper
Sniper II
Sniper III
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Does my new WGP marker run on high or low pressure air?
High pressure air is your answer. It is physically capable of running on low pressure air, but it can get a little choked up at times. HP air is your best bet.
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Thread sizing

This is a modified version of the one from the voided warranty.

Autococker:
Pump Arm: 10-23
LPR" 1/8 NPT
Ram Shaft: 6-32
Ram Body: 5/16-24
3 way: 15/32-32
IVG: 3/4-16
Detent: 3/8-24
Banjo Bolt 2k: 9/16-24
Banjo Bolt Pre 2k: 3/8-24
Hammer Lug: 1/4-28
Cocking Rod: 10-32
Valve Locking Nut: 5/16-24
Valve Retaining Nut: 5/8-18
Cocker Barrel: 15/16"-20, Oversize GH-7
Barb: 10-32
Smaller barb commonly found on 3 way: 6-40
Eblade eye cover screw: 4-40
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"Originally posted by Dr.StraightPride: There once was a boy named Johnny. Johnny enjoyed PbNation and paintball in general. He enjoyed reading information and trying new modifications to his marker based on PbNation users' experiences. Unfortunately, Johnny could not spell. At all, ever. Not on Sunday or Wednesday. hI sP3lT lyK3 d1S. Then one day, I beat Johnny's head in with an iron pipe.
Then Johnny put a B/S/T post in the WGP forum and I ate his spleen."

Last edited by CoreyGill : 06-28-2006 at 04:41 PM.
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Old 08-02-2006, 03:26 PM #3
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Autococker O-Ring Kit:
http://www.anythingxtreme.com/Worr-G...1217C1606.aspx
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Old 09-16-2006, 07:08 AM #4
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Autococker instant messanger list. http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=1743141&page=2
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Old 02-24-2007, 08:14 PM #5
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DSP's E2 Settings Thread:
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=1752021
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Old 02-16-2011, 09:14 AM #6
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Snagging this from the Mech Cocker FAQ to keep it somewhere easily accessible.


How to time your Autococker

Quote:
Originally Posted by Reaper22 View Post
This is a "how to" thread on how to properly time an Autococker. I have taken everything in this thread from knowledge I have gained from working with Autocockers. I give full credit to Greenkill for the "Trigger Sequence" section. Also much thanks to MikeM for helping me put the final touches on this.


3way hoses
Correct line up of 3way hoses with different frame and 3way positions. The middle hose always goes to the LPR.

Hinge frame w/ 2 oring 3way:
Front - Front
Back - Back

Hinge frame w/ 3 oring 3way:
Front - Back
Back - Front

Slider frame w/ 2 oring 3way:
Front - Back
Back - Front

Slider frame w/ 3 oring 3way:
Front - Front
Back - Back

Backblock Position

Lets focus now on the backblock. Remove the cocking rod, bolt quick pull and the bolt itself. Push the backblock as close to the body as you can. Screw the backblock into the pump arm until it hits the body. At this point you want to unscrew the backblock one turn out so it leaves a very small gap, no more then 1 or 2 finger nail widths wide. Once you have that small gap, put the parts you have taken off back on.

Adjusting cocking rod

Hold your marker so you are looking down into the breech. Pull the backblock all the way back and then release, it will move forward a little bit on its own. How much of your bolt, if any is still showing in your breech? You should be able to see about one to two millimeters of the bolt. If you see more or less then look at the back of your cocking rod, there is a set screw. The size of allen key for that set screw is 5/16" and loosen the set screw. If too much of the bolt is showing then you are going to want to extend the length that the bolt can go. So turn the nut on the cocking rod counterclockwise until only a sliver of the bolt is showing in the breech. If you have a buffer oring infront of the nut, make sure you push that up as well.

If you see no bolt, turn the nut clockwise until you see a sliver in the breech. No point in having your ram work harder then it has to.

Trigger Sequence

This is to show you the proper way the marker should be firing and recocking during the trigger pull. Have your marker degassed. Look on the left side of the trigger frame right above the trigger; see that little groove area with a rod sticking through? Good, now pull the trigger all the way back and take note to the distance that rod traveled.

S = Start of pull
E = End of pull
F = Firing point
A = Actuating point

S---F--A---E

If properly set up, the marker should be shooting between the first 1/4 to 1/2 length of the pull. The marker should be actuating around 3/4 of the length.

The marker is actuating too early or too late

The marker is actuating too early:
Here is a tip to save on air as well as not having to listen to the marker shooting all the time. Remove the cocking rod until your marker is actuating at the right spot. Then screw the cocking rod back in. If the marker is actuating earlier then the last 3/4 length of the trigger pull then we should probably get it actuating a little bit later so we do not interfere with the firing sequence that we just set-up. We are going to need the marker gassed up for this one and have the marker turns so the right side is facing up. Forward of the vertical regulator you will see the actuating collar and it should have two screws; one nearest the regulator and one near the 3way. We are going to adjust the total length of the actuating collar so go ahead and loosen the set screw closest to the regulator. The size of allen key is 1/16". So we are sitting here with the marker actuating too early, what we want to do is lengthen the actuating collar so the marker actuates later in the pull. So go ahead and turn the collar counterclockwise (depending on how you are looking, turn it as though you are trying to remove it). After every fine adjustment pull the trigger and check to see if it is shooting late enough in the pull. If not, keep turning until you find the proper spot. When you're done with that tighten that set screw back up.

The marker is actuating too late:
Here is a tip to save on air as well as not having to listen to the marker shooting all the time. Remove the cocking rod until your marker is actuating at the right spot. Then screw the cocking rod back in. If the marker is actuating later then the last 3/4 length of the trigger pull then we should probably get it actuating a little bit sooner so we don't have it so far back that we risk the chance of not pulling the trigger far enough (IE. Short stroking). We are going to need the marker gassed up for this one and have the marker turns so the right side is facing up. Forward of the vertical regulator you will see the actuating collar and it should have two screws; one nearest the regulator and one near the 3way. We are going to adjust the total length of the actuating collar so go ahead and loosen the set screw closest to the regulator. The size of allen key is 1/16". So we are sitting here with the marker actuating too late, what we want to do is shorten the actuating collar so the marker actuates sooner in the pull. So go ahead and turn the collar clockwise (depending on how you are looking, turn it as though you are trying to screw it on further). After every fine adjustment pull the trigger and check to see if it is shooting soon enough in the pull. If not, keep turning until you find the proper spot. When you're done with that tighten that set screw back up.

The marker is shooting too early or late

Firing too early:
If the marker is shooting sooner then the 1/4 to 1/2 length of the trigger pull then we are going to want to get it shooting a little later so we don't have firing problems. To do so; Have the marker uncocked then move your bolt and stick a 1/8" allen key inside the hole located on the top of the marker, just behind the feedtube. Once you have the allen key in, you may need to wiggle the cocking rod a little bit in order for the allen key to reach to the head of the lug. Once you have gotten the allen key in the lug, you are going to turn the allen key counterclockwise so the lug rests lower on the sear. This will cause the marker to not shoot till later in the pull. The amount you turn depends on how soon the marker is firing.

Firing too late:
If the marker is shooting past the 1/4 to 1/2 length of the trigger pull then we are going to want to get it shooting a little sooner so we don't have conflicts between the marker trying to shoot and the actuating. A good sign but not the only sign would be that your marker is "farting." To do so; Have the marker uncocked then move your bolt and stick a 1/8" allen key inside the hole located on the top of the marker, just behind the feedtube. Once you have the allen key in, you may need to wiggle the cocking rod a little bit in order for the allen key to reach to the head of the lug. Once you have gotten the allen key in the lug, you are going to turn the allen key clockwise so the lug rests higher on the sear. This will cause the marker to shoot sooner in the pull. The amount you turn depends on how late the marker is firing.
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Old 10-12-2012, 07:24 PM #7
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Old 07-17-2013, 03:52 AM #8
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nice
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Old 07-28-2013, 11:55 AM #9
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Good info for those new to cockers!
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