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Old 04-29-2008, 11:19 PM #379
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tEh PwNz1c0r View Post
Xluben, are you sure no light gets between the frame and body of your gun? That is the one problem on mine that I cant fix.
I don't think it will hurt anything. On my pm6...there is a gap like that when I put a UL frame on it. It hasn't hurt anything and i've been playing with the pm6 for 2 years like that. As long as the gap isn't HUGE...you know.
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Old 04-29-2008, 11:58 PM #380
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Yeah, I can see a bit of light in the eye cover area though. On the blue one
I could see light between frame/body when I got it, but I tightened down the
screws and now it's gone. When I disassembled/reassembled the black on I
could also see light, but after re-adjusting the eye covers I was able to fully
screw down the frame to the body.

I think it's just a fit/tolerance issue that is extremely hard to avoid with this
kind of design. I have seen other guns that are MUCH worse. My SLG easily
had enough room to slight in a piece of paper.
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Old 04-30-2008, 08:21 AM #381
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Obeast44 View Post
No joke removing the board to slide the RAPS is a bit much. But understandable considering the marker is so small.
You only have to remove the board if you want to flip or replace the rail ... you can slide the RAPS on the rail without removing the board
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Old 04-30-2008, 08:23 AM #382
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As for those of you with gaps between frame/body

Loosen both frame screws so the frame has some wiggle room and see if when held together that gap is still there ... if its gone, well you didnt tighten the screws evenly and one is pulling against the other, causing the gap.

So, if the gap goes away all you need to do is tighten the screws evenly and your problem should be fixed

Also watch for the eye wires getting in the way as well as the eye covers (Putting the covers on after the frame is attached solves that issue)
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Old 04-30-2008, 08:51 AM #383
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IntenseImage View Post
You only have to remove the board if you want to flip or replace the rail ... you can slide the RAPS on the rail without removing the board
Your rail isn't built in? I have to remove the board to loosen the set screws enough to slide the RAPS.
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Old 04-30-2008, 09:14 AM #384
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Ah forgetting I have the iQ (no stock raps) and was using a DYE Airport and SP S-Rail .... not using the built in rail
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Old 04-30-2008, 09:15 AM #385
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Even so, why wouldn't you use the built in one? Makes it a hair shorter.
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Old 04-30-2008, 09:17 AM #386
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The built in rail doesnt fit all ASAs ... my Airport wouldnt fit at all on the stock rail (which is why I was using the SP Rail) ... my Hybrid does so thats what Im using (currently)
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Old 04-30-2008, 09:18 AM #387
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Dangit, I was hoping they had actually fixed that. Oh well, the new RAPS is on of the best ASA's out there, IMO.
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Old 04-30-2008, 09:21 AM #388
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FYI, the Radioshack magnets fit perfectly in the G3:



Jury is still out on whether or not they feel any better though. At this point they basically feel identical to stock
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Old 04-30-2008, 09:39 AM #389
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Hmmm my Fusion kit is ALOT stiffer than my Threshy kit and I was debating which to use on the iQ ... I have a feeling the Fusion kit will definitely be the way to go
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Old 04-30-2008, 09:43 AM #390
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xluben - I was not at all a fan of the radio shack magnets in my IQ, however it was the only way myself and the rest of my team was able to eliminate bounce.
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Old 04-30-2008, 09:48 AM #391
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IntenseImage View Post
Hmmm my Fusion kit is ALOT stiffer than my Threshy kit and I was debating which to use on the iQ ... I have a feeling the Fusion kit will definitely be the way to go
Fusion kit in the Fusion, and Threshy kit in the Threshy?
Or both kits in the iQ?

They're not going to feel the same due to differences in spacing between
the frame and the trigger (at least I don't think these spacings are the same).

I loved the Rendition kit in my F8. It was pretty stiff, but felt sooo smooth.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ladd_17 View Post
xluben - I was not at all a fan of the radio shack magnets in my IQ, however
it was the only way myself and the rest of my team was able to eliminate bounce.
I have not had any problems with bounce with the stock spring or magnets.
All DP guns will slow pull bounce, but if they only shoot one ball per pull during
normal use then you should be fine. I think the Radioshack magnets are a hair
stiffer than the spring.
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Old 04-30-2008, 09:59 AM #392
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xluben View Post
Fusion kit in the Fusion, and Threshy kit in the Threshy?
Or both kits in the iQ?
Yes the Fusion kit in my Fusion is WAY stiffer than the Threshy kit in my Threshy. Which I believe is due to the larger magnet used for the Fusion. And I prefer that stiffer pull so when the frame comes back I think ill try the Fusion kit in my iQ - which is what I had thought all along since it doesnt need that washer to fix the "bump" issue although it may still work just fine since the washer will bring the magnets closer together
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Old 04-30-2008, 10:07 AM #393
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Fusion kit in the Fusion, and Threshy kit in the Threshy?
Or both kits in the iQ?

They're not going to feel the same due to differences in spacing between
the frame and the trigger (at least I don't think these spacings are the same).

I loved the Rendition kit in my F8. It was pretty stiff, but felt sooo smooth.
Did you follow instructions exactly? did you need to drill?
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Old 04-30-2008, 11:09 AM #394
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No drilling on any of his kits. They are very simple to install.
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Old 04-30-2008, 01:56 PM #395
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Im considering trying one. Im sick of spending $1000+ on new guns
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Old 04-30-2008, 02:25 PM #396
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hey xluben, i'm very interested in trying the magnet thing. what do I ask the person at radioshack about what type of magnet to get and are they found at most radioshacks or do you have to order online?

and how do you install them...is there super glue involved? thanks in advance! I feel like the spring in mine is little bit too light and needs to be a tad stiffer.
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Old 04-30-2008, 02:32 PM #397
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Basically put a drop of superglue into the spring cup in the frame, drop magnet in - wait 5 mins till it dries

Figure out what way the "trigger" magnet needs to go to repel .. glue onto trigger ... wait till its dry and install
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Old 04-30-2008, 03:47 PM #398
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This is what you would buy:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search

This is how you do it (start at step 8):

http://cgi.ebay.com/Dangerous-Power-...QQcmdZViewItem

I always put the glue onto the magnet. The magnet on the trigger fits perfectly in the groove in the trigger (see my pic above).
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Old 04-30-2008, 05:44 PM #399
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Nice job xluben.
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