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Old 01-02-2008, 09:03 AM #1
sparky81
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VS Series Info.

Ultimate VS Series Thread

This thread was compiled with help from rellab07, 1NSANITY.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

First things first read your manual!!!

VS1 Manual http://www.spyder.tv/section/support/manuals/vs1.pdf
VS2 Manual http://www.spyder.tv/section/support/manuals/vs2.pdf
VS3 Manual http://www.spyder.tv/section/support/manuals/vs3.pdf

VS2/3 videos

Spyder Factory Replacement Parts- http://www.sundragonpps.com/paintbal...epl_parts.html

Batteries
This gun was made to use the Java 9.6volt battery supplied. If your finding it's dying to fast buy another one don't substitute a alkaline battery in it's place. It is suggested that you charge the gun the day before using it. After charging the battery fully for 6-8 hours, the battery will slowly drain and will hold no charge in 5-6 days. I've found that after I charge it I take the battery out of the gun till I use it.

Lubing Bolt
Lubricate the rubber o-ring on it. If you don’t lube it frequently it may cause re-cocking problems, make sure you lube it using your finger only on the o-ring. Also put a dab of oil on your finger and rub on the detents.

Lubing the Regulator
2-3 drops of paintball oil (Gold Cup) into the reg make sure it’s in the off position when you place the drops. Then screw in the tank turn on the reg and dry fire about 30 times without the barrel or hopper. You can also take the reg. apart and use Dow 33 on the six shims.
Reg. Maintenance Guide

Lubing Striker
Remove the screw under the frame towards the back. Take out the internals. Now you place about 1-2 drops of lube on the strikers o-ring and spread it around the striker. When you place everything back make sure you do it in reverse order that you removed it. If you are having problems putting the striker back just turn on your gun, turn off the eyes and fire until the striker gets through. Doing this to your marker keeps your gun running to its full potential and reduces re-cocking problems.

Re-cocking and Leak Problems may be caused by the following:
1. Your internals may not be properly lubed.
2. You have not lubed the reg.
3. Your guns pressure may be too low.
4. Your detents need lubed with oil, use minimal amount.
5. Your valve o-rings may be damaged.
6. You might have placed the valve up side down.
7. Your valve may not be screwed into place all the way. If you screw the valve screw in to much it could cause your valve to leak.
8. The Reg has not been broken in. (takes about 3 cases of paint)
9. The spring may not be broken in.
10. Bolt may be upside down.

Fixes
1. Lube internals with paintball oil (Gold Cup)
2. Lube the reg.
3. Turn the pressure up slowly until it does re-cock.
4. Check for damage on o-rings and lube them. If damaged replace and lube.
5. Open up the marker and check if the valve is properly placed.
6. Check if the screw that holds the valve in place is all the way screwed in. Don't overtighten it, this can cause a leak.
7. You can screw in the velocity spring all the way and leave it like that for a week. But many people do not recommend this.
8. Check if the bolt is not upside down.


HP vs. LP vs. CO2

HP (high pressure) or LP (low pressure) tanks, they both give different out-puts of psi, for the vs2 I would recommend you to get a HP so you can have a faster recharge rate on your gun so you shoot more consistent. But LP is also fine. Now for CO2 you can use it but it voids the warranty and expect a whole lot of o-ring changes, you can get a palmer’s reg that helps out and get your tank anti-siphoned less maintenance.

Regulator/ ASA Leaking
It's normally the oring on the on/ off knob. Go to page 22 of the VS2 manual. Turn the on/off knob as far clockwise as it will go. Take off the c- clip #ITP008 with needle nose pliers. Then turn the on/ off knob counter clockwise, it will keep spinning after you reach a certain point. Give it a slight tug and out it will come. It's probably o-ring #ORG018 but check both to verify. Take whichever one is bad off, put new one on from parts kit. Then take some dow 33 and put some on both orings. Now reassemble, chances are you turned the on/off to far and pinched the oring slightly. When I still had that reg on there I'd only turn it till it felt snug then I'd back it off 1/4 turn.
Video- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8zwxid_0TIs

Tightening ASA video- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iDglUJMS35U
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Old 01-02-2008, 09:04 AM #2
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UPGRADES

Circuit Boards-
Scenario Dreams T-Board http://scenariodreams.com/productpages/electra.htm
Tadao Technologies http://www.tadaotechnologies.com/default.asp
The Tadao board is a drop in replacement, it works with the stock eyes.
Virtue circuit board http://www.virtuepaintball.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=33 7


Barrel's
They use the same Spyder threaded barrels as all Spyder guns.
The VS3 however limits you to a select few choice of barrels. The shroud doesn't allow enough room, a possible solution is to file it down. I'm gonna try to get a list of all barrels that will fit the VS3 without modding the shroud. Pm me barrels that you know will work.
Barrels that fit the VS3:
1. J&J Ceramic
2. Python Barrel Kit
3.Trinity Accurate
4. 07 Freak back produced after June '07

ASA
You can use either a direct mount or dovetail mount (rail). The dovetail mount looks much better.

Front Block/ Regulator Adapter
The only front block available right now is from Trinity- http://www.trinitypaintball.com/Prod...uctCode=TR+229
Trinity Reg. Adapter- http://www.trinitypaintball.com/Prod...uctCode=TR+317
New Designz reg. adapter- http://www.newdesignz.com/SpyderVS.htm
Custom Products reg. adapter- http://store.customproducts.us/index...&categoryID=23

Triggers-
Trinity- http://www.trinitypaintball.com/Prod...uctCode=TR+233
MuddyTaco- http://www.spyder.tv/forums/showthread.php?t=9807
CP Sling- http://store.customproducts.us/index...&categoryID=31

Trinity Sick Body-
This is for nothing but aesthetic value. Alot of guys have problems with them leaking air. I have yet to run into this problem and have put over 10 of them on VS2/3. Trinity supplies you with new o-rings to go onto the valve and front block, use them along with the dow55 they provided. Do not put dow55 on striker or bolt o-ring only on valve and front block o- rings. Also make sure when your putting the front block on to press it against the body as your tightening the screw.
http://www.trinitypaintball.com/Prod...uctCode=TR+223

Color Body Kits and Barrel Tip-
They include feed neck clamp, metal eye covers, low pressure chamber, foregrip riser, and striker plug. http://www.spyder.tv/section/product...cessories.html
The barrel tip is bought seperatly. http://www.spyder.tv/section/product...cessories.html

Feednecks-
They are Ion threaded so any Ion thread will work with the VS
New Designz Pro Clamp- http://www.newdesignz.com/SpyderVS.htm
CCM No Rise Clamping- http://www.chipleymachine.com/
Redz Cam Lock- http://www.redzcomfort.com/storefront/detail.aspx?ID=11
Function 07 Clamping-

Grips
Hybrid Contract Killer- http://www.hybridpaintball.biz/products.php?cat=9

Bolts and Strikers
Alamo City Low Blow Bolt- http://www.alamocitypb.com/MANUFACTPAGES/lowblow.html
Alamo City Del Flo Bolt- http://www.alamocitypb.com/MANUFACTPAGES/bolts.html
Alamo City VS2/3 Delrin and Steel Striker- http://www.alamocitypb.com/MANUFACTP...erstriker.html
Alamo City VS1 Delrin and Steel Striker-http://www.alamocitypb.com/MANUFACTP...erstriker.html
Shocktech Bolt- http://www.buyshocktech.com/pages/ma...spy_vsBOLT.htm


Spring Kits
The valve springs in the VS can use any compact spyder valve springs.
There are no main springs made for the VS2/3. If you find that your main spring is weak, you can cut yourself shims out of cardboard. Another alternative is to use flat washers as a shim. Be sure to chronograph your gun after you mess with the springs.

What You'll Need to Upgrade Your Regulator
You either need a Trinity front block or regulator adapter. You'll then need a new inline regulator. Since your current regulator is also your asa your gonna need a new asa as said before you can either get a rail type or direct mount. To hook everything up you'll need macro fittings and macroline . These will vary depending on your setup if you need 90* elbow or straight fittings. You cannot reuse the current fittings because they are metric threads and most products use s.a.e. threads.
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Old 01-02-2008, 09:05 AM #3
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VS Series Efficiency Thread

Faq

1. Q. I pulled the cocking pin out of my bolt and lost the spring and ball bearing?
A. If you have the spring and ball bearing all you need to do is back the allen screw out of the back of the bolt. Put your cocking pin back into the hole. Then insert the ball bearing and spring back into the allen hole the tighten up your allen screw. If you completely lost the spring and ball bearing check here for replacements.
2. Q. My eyes are not working?
A. Check that they are turned on if they are check for a pinched wire and also they are connected to the board.
3. Q. I pinched my eye wires where do I get new eyes from?
A. Either from Kingman or here?
4. Q. Can I use eyes from a T-Board or Virtue board for my stock or Tadao board?
A. No. The board connectors are different. No eyes can be used with any other board. Only the Stock and Tadao boards use the same eyes.
5. Q. My gun won't recock?
A. The bolt could be catching on the detents so put a little oil on the detent slots of the bolt. You can also raise the pressure till it does recock, don't go over 300psi. You take the chance of blowing the gauge. The best operating pressure to break the reg. in is around 250psi.
6. Q. My gun won't fire with nothing in the chamber?
A. Turn the eyes off.
7. Q. My gun keeps chopping paintballs?
A. Take your eye covers off and clean your eyes with rubbing alcohol and a q-tip. Put the rubbing alcohol on the q-tip and wipe the eyes.
8. Q. The noid won't click allowing the gun to shoot or board shuts off randomly? Having sear release issues?
A. Charge the Java battery included with the gun. It should be charged 6-8 hours before use. The battery will lose it's charge after a few days. Do not use Alkaline batteries with your VS marker.
9. Q. What lube to use?
A. Dow 33 on the valve and front block o-rings and paintball oil on the striker and bolt o-rings. Don't oil the bolt, Delrin has been known to swell when oil is introduced to it. Use a minimal amount on the bolt o-ring. Remember oil not only lubricates but attracts dirt.
10. Q. Can I use Co2 with my VS2/3? You can use Co2 with the VS1.
A. Read this whole thing and come to your own conclusion?
11. Q. How many grams is the trigger switch in a VS2/3?
A. 75g This is the perfect weight for this gun even with other modifications done to the gun.
12. Q. What's the differences between the VS2 and VS3?
VS3 has a rocking trigger, black body, and barrel shroud limiting the barrels you can use.
VS2 has a Infinity trigger, silver body, and doesn't have the barrel shroud.
13. Q.



This is a work in progress so bare with me till I have it done. Wanna contribute pm me the info. and I'll get it posted up.
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Old 01-02-2008, 09:05 AM #4
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Home Modifications
Alot of the mods used on the Spyder Classic series can also be used on the VS series. I refer you to OtterSC Customs. Be sure to thank him with site donations. I'd reccomend in polishing the sear and striker. Also drilling out the front block will help with flow of air. Be sure to take your gauge out if you do that. It's loc-tite'd on so you'll need a hair dryer or heat gun to loosen up the loc-tite, be sure to teflon tape it before putting back together.

Some mods that aren't discussed on his site are drilling out the foregrip and taking the Co2 filter out of the gun for better flow. To take the Co2 filter out of the reg. follow step one of this guide.
After you take the filter out just put your macro fitting back on, be sure to have the rubber washer washer on there so it doesn't leak. If you lost it just wrap the threads of the fitting with teflon tape.

To drill out the foregrip unscrew it from the gun first. Then take off the 90* macro fitting. Get yourself a drill bit 1/8 smaller then the threaded part of the foregrip, so you don't damage the threads while drilling. Then just drill that part out. Then just wrap the 90* macro fitting with teflon tape and put back together.
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Old 01-02-2008, 09:05 AM #5
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Old 01-03-2008, 12:00 AM #6
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let's try to keep the chit chat down though any pertinent info that sparky can add to his list is more than welcome. if you have anything to add, please post it.

nice start sparky!
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Old 01-23-2008, 04:41 PM #7
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What You'll Need to Upgrade Your Regulator
You either need a Trinity front block or regulator adapter. You'll then need a new inline regulator. Since your current regulator is also your asa your gonna need a new asa as said before you can either get a rail type or direct mount. To hook everything up you'll need macro fittings and macroline . These will vary depending on your setup if you need 90* elbow or straight fittings. You cannot reuse the current fittings because they are metric threads and most products use s.a.e. threads.[/QUOTE][b]]

Couldn't I get something like this http://www.anythingxtreme.com/Trinit...4776C1618.aspx And thanks for writing this, it's very helpful.
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Old 01-23-2008, 04:50 PM #8
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Originally Posted by Gutless View Post
What You'll Need to Upgrade Your Regulator
You either need a Trinity front block or regulator adapter. You'll then need a new inline regulator. Since your current regulator is also your asa your gonna need a new asa as said before you can either get a rail type or direct mount. To hook everything up you'll need macro fittings and macroline . These will vary depending on your setup if you need 90* elbow or straight fittings. You cannot reuse the current fittings because they are metric threads and most products use s.a.e. threads.[/QUOTE][b]]

Couldn't I get something like this http://www.anythingxtreme.com/Trinit...4776C1618.aspx And thanks for writing this, it's very helpful.
Yes, but why get that when a regular fitting is about the same price?
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Old 01-23-2008, 05:18 PM #9
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Yes, but why get that when a regular fitting is about the same price?
what do you mean "a regular fitting"?
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Old 01-23-2008, 05:42 PM #10
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I think I know what you mean.
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Old 01-23-2008, 05:42 PM #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gutless View Post
What You'll Need to Upgrade Your Regulator
You either need a Trinity front block or regulator adapter. You'll then need a new inline regulator. Since your current regulator is also your asa your gonna need a new asa as said before you can either get a rail type or direct mount. To hook everything up you'll need macro fittings and macroline . These will vary depending on your setup if you need 90* elbow or straight fittings. You cannot reuse the current fittings because they are metric threads and most products use s.a.e. threads.[/QUOTE][b]]

Couldn't I get something like this http://www.anythingxtreme.com/Trinit...4776C1618.aspx And thanks for writing this, it's very helpful.
That fitting will do you no good, because it still would be metric threads. I'm guessing you wanna use the fitting from the gas thru grip on your new reg. I can't recall ever seeing a metric to S.A.E. fitting, I'm sure their around but probably a little pricy. Most reg.'s include macro fitting and even if they don't check out hobbyhorse in the b/s/t section he has the best prices around and while your at it pick up a peice or 2 of macroline.

B.T.W. check your pm's
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Old 02-02-2008, 07:17 AM #12
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The cp rake isn't there. Thanks for writing this, helped me a few times. And you may want to take out the hybrid grips because you can no longer buy those.
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Old 02-02-2008, 03:30 PM #13
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Interesting informative thread. Only thing I don't see mentioned when changing the reg is there is a stainless line/QD option too.
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Old 02-26-2008, 02:12 AM #14
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Sbaker.....this is an info thread, not a question thread. Please just start a new thread for your problem.
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Old 03-06-2008, 01:38 AM #15
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New VS3

I just got my new vs3, and i wanted to know whats worth doing to it, first whats the best setting for the regulator or PSI, I was gonna put it at 250psi
but also with ajusting the velocity im not sure where to go with that, i want to maintain high speed,distance, and accuratcie,
is it recommended to lube the ring when first getting the vs3
whats the differance between my stock springs, bolt and striker, to an upgraded
spring, bolt and striker,
last, when and what or the more importing things to look for
when maintaining your vs3


I understand this is an info forum, and its been very helpfull to me alot
and I see you know alot about paintball so i hope you are
able to answer my question when around, id appreciate it
also am I able to get a duel touch switch board if so
where
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Old 03-06-2008, 07:04 AM #16
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let's try to keep the chit chat down though any pertinent info that sparky can add to his list is more than welcome.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc77 View Post
this is an info thread, not a question thread. Please just start a new thread for your problem.
PM sparky or start a new thread. This thread is supposed to be purely info.
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Old 03-22-2008, 10:28 AM #17
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God damn this thread helped me in so many different ways.
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Old 03-23-2008, 07:47 AM #18
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God damn this thread helped me in so many different ways.
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Old 04-17-2008, 07:49 PM #19
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Hey, while lubing our vs3 marker a small spring fell out from the striker area and i can't really tell from the pic in the manual where it suppose to go. someone help us out.
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Old 04-17-2008, 08:21 PM #20
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small spring?
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Old 04-17-2008, 08:33 PM #21
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yes real small spring and a bearing looks like a BB
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