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Old 01-09-2008, 03:13 AM #1
Poopshute
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DIY ERA LPR/LP Mod for HP Angels w/PICS!!!

DIY "ERA" LPR/LP MOD FOR HP ANGELS

NOTE... DO NOT USE RED THREAD LOCKER!!!

It's winter here so I got bored. Tossed this idea around with Little Man, The Doc, and Farg's thread on his "something or rather thingy gun".

This modification is to steer your HP Angel (LED, LCD, or IR3) towards operating at lower pressures. It also allows you to use an adjustable external LPR such as a Micro Rock. The later portion of this modification is what the FreeFlow ERA mod did however, this modification opens your valve chamber even more allowing you to run your HP Angel at lower pressures. For info on an easier version of this, please refer to the FreeFlow ERA Mod write-up I made a while back.

Now then... as mentioned above, the following mod will give you these benefits:

1.) Removes the stock reg and replaces it with an externally adjustable LP regulator of your choice. Benefit? Makes fine-tuning much easier and gives you more consistency overall. Also allows you to drop kick.

2.) Increases your valve chamber which allows you to run your Angel at lower pressures.

3.) Allows you to use volumizers the way they were meant to be used. Keep in mind that volumizers on HP Angels are completely pointless. This mod will let you utilize a volumizer as the LP Angels do.

Before we get started, lets take a look the different air ports that hide away under your vertical reg adapter/manifold. Yes, this is the first step. Remove your vertical reg adapter/manifold completely. If you need to know how to do this, please consult the manual over at angelsports.com.

Below is a diagram of the air ports on the bottom front end of an Angel LCD.



(Sorry if these aren't the proper names for the ports shown)
1.) Manifold/Vertical Reg Adapter Screw Hole (1)
2.) Valve Chamber Air Supply Port
3.) LPR Retainer Pin Hole
4.) Manifold/Vertical Reg Adapter Screw Hole (2: screws in from inside the vertical reg adapter)
5.) Exhaust Port
6.) LPR Passage Hole. Used to create an air passage inside the valve chamber that connects to the passage way for air to flow to your noid/ram.

Now that you have a better idea of what each port is. Here's what needs to happen.

Ports 3, 5, and 6 need to be plugged as they each run directly into the valve chamber. Basically, any hole other than the valve chamber air supply hole that leads to the valve chamber needs to be plugged so that the entire valve chamber will be sealed. Since we are no longer using the stock internal LPR, there is no reason to have any of these ports open. As an option, you may wish to expand port #2 to allow better flow from your vertical regulator to your valve chamber. This includes porting #2 as well as porting the hole on your vertical reg adapter/manifold. I have already done this hence why this hole may look bigger in my picture than it does on your gun. Also, keep in mind that port #6 will have a set screw already in place and will need to be removed. WDP used red thread locker so use a heat source like a propane torch to heat up the area then remove the set screw.

The next step after your familiar with what ports you need to plug is to "simply" start plugging them. Lets start with the hardest one first. The hardest one to plug will be port #6. Reason being is that you need to use a long set screw to plug the LPR passage that lives inside the valve chamber as shown in the picture below.


(The two airways shown above connect)

The best way to plug this hole is to use a longer set screw and red thread locker. Unfortunately, this isn't as easy as getting a longer set screw and screwing it in. You'll need to thread the #6 port all the way through as the stock setup is only threaded long enough for a small set screw. To get an idea of the set screw you'll need to use and the set screw that comes stock, please refer to the picture below.



The stock set screw size is an M4 (4mm/.5mm thread). It is small and serves to plug the hole from leaking through the bottom. The screw we'll be using needs to be a bit longer. It should be an M4 but in a 25 mm length. Even at 25mm in length, I found it was just a tad too long. The idea is to have the set screw be long enough to plug the hole in the valve chamber but NOT plug the LPR passage way to the noid. You may have to trim a bit of the 25mm set screw so it won't be too long. Keep in mind that the set screw should screw far enough in from the bottom to be flush so your vertical reg adapter will sit against the body flush.

To get an idea how big the set screw is... please see the picture below.


Make sure to use red thread locker as it will ensure a good seal. One thing to keep in mind, by pluggin this hole, part of the threads on the set screw will now protrude into the valve chamber causing issues if you ever want to remove your valve. The solution? Use heat and remove the set screw before you remove your valve or, grind down the part that sticks out. I did not want to grind the screw as you risk breaking the seal. I simply just left it alone as I don't plan on removing my valve much at all.

The next ports you need to plug are #'s 3 and 5. These are a bit more straight forward as you simply drill and tap the holes all the way through. I chose to stay with metric set screws as they're not only consistent with the rest of the screws on my Angel (good 'ol Brits) but they're also finer than standard threads which will help create seals. Use a set screw that is short enough to not protruded into the valve chamber but still is flush on the bottom. The below picture shows how the bottom end should look like once you're done plugging the holes.


NOTE: One thing that may help you get seals is to taper off your tap jobs. Instead of tapping all the way through, stop tapping the hole right before you reach the other end. The taps you'll most likely use are tapered at the tip to help guide the tap through the hole. By tapering the hole you make the threads narrow at the end. This makes it so your set screws will tighten up against the thread helping you create seals.

After you're done sealing the three holes (actually 4 but one set screw takes care of 2 holes), reinstall the vertical reg adapter/manifold using the necessary seals and grease.

At this point, you're ready to install an external reg. I'm not going to go too in depth with how to install the LPR reg as the ERA mod write-up tells you how to complete this step. However, since you will not be using the ERA LPR adapter, you'll need to create your own. The ERA adapter serves three purposes. It plugs the passage ways we have just plugged, has a built in valve spring guide, and has a threaded end for an external LPR. We already have the first part of this done. The next step is to figure out a way to attach the external LPR. You can use an end cap or for more volume and lower operating pressures, use a volly. Simply drill and tap a 1/8 NPT hole at the end of either and endcap or a volly and screw the the external LPR reg into it.

You'll need to purchase/find a valve spring guide bobbin for an Angel Speed or an A4.




Once you have this part installed with your valve spring, you'll want to screw in the end plug/volly (with the external LPR attached) to the valve chamber side, you should have a complete seal and running air going into your external LPR. Please refer to the ERA write-up on how to redirect the LP air from your external LPR to your noid.





After this step, attach your LP hoses to the barb leading to your noid, gas up your marker and see if everything sealed.

NOTE: I highly recommend you set up some type of LPR gauge before gasing up your markers. If you did not seal the LPR passage correctly, you will over pressurize your noid and may cause damage or blown seals. As you've noticed, I have an on-board gauge that helped me detect if there was a leak in the LPR passage that I attempted to plug.

Here are some profile pics to finish off...





That's it for now. I have yet to get out to the field and test this baby but it should drop my operating pressure giving me more shots per fill.

Please refer to later threads where I discuss the use of high grade putty to seal the LPR passage way.

As always, pm me if you have any questions.
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Old 01-09-2008, 03:21 AM #2
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whats funny is us "wise guys" all work on the same **** at the same time and dont tlk about it. I been procuring parts for the last month....

good tut man should be a sticky

J
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Old 01-09-2008, 03:29 AM #3
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Originally Posted by Shibbykins View Post
whats funny is us "wise guys" all work on the same **** at the same time and dont tlk about it. I been procuring parts for the last month....

good tut man should be a sticky

J
Dude... yeah... there's been snow on the ground since well before x-mas. If I can't shoot people... I just fix my gun till it's broke. ;-) I'll have this thing finished by the end of the week. I'm REALLY crossing my fingers that there are no leaks.
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Old 01-09-2008, 03:31 AM #4
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Looks good. One thing to consider if you're using an end cap for the LPR is that you may also want to drill out two divots (not full holes) on the end cap next to the 1/8" NPT reg adapter hole so that you can screw the end cap in before you install the reg. That way you can make sure the end cap is fully threaded in and sealed, and also ensure that your LPR output port is facing the right way.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shibbykins View Post
whats funny is us "wise guys" all work on the same **** at the same time and dont tlk about it. I been procuring parts for the last month....
Farg did the same mod like 2 years ago, so you're all old news as far as he's concerned He tapped the ASA for the reg instead of the endcap or volly though.

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Old 01-09-2008, 03:35 AM #5
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i know farg did it 2 years ago lol i asked him about a month ago about it

great minds think alike
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Old 01-09-2008, 03:43 AM #6
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I know that you know I'm was just saying, we all owe a debt of gratitude to Farg for the concept. I'm interested to see how it turns out and what kind of pressures you can get it down to. This mod with a SCM-III, lightened valve spring and lightened hammer would pretty much max out the capabilities of the HP generation guns.
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Old 01-09-2008, 03:46 AM #7
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since poop has eyes on his LCD and mixed with this it should be able to keepup with the A4 generation in theory.
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Old 01-09-2008, 06:36 AM #8
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Plan to do this to my old led. Have to gather some taps and drill bits, along with the necessities of the mod. If i run into any problems i will take pics incase there is a difference, which i doubt.
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Old 01-09-2008, 06:40 AM #9
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There actually may be some difference with the LED, because the ASA/manifold is different, using the external air passageway through the grip frame and whatnot.
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Old 01-09-2008, 09:41 AM #10
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I think I get it now. I just had a look at my angels and I see what you mean. If there is not 25mm screw in there the air from the valve chamber will go back to the noid and its too much pressure I take it. thanks for the post man this helps me out lots. I was all worried that I would have all kinds of crazy stuff to do but its not that bad at all. its too bad that I can't seal this one the way that I did the other 2 but thats ok it just would have made things easier but no biggie.

tell me something where did you get the screw from?
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Old 01-09-2008, 09:53 AM #11
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You should be able to source a screw like that at any Lowes or Home Depot (I don't know if they have those in Canada. Any hardware store should have it though). I've bought similar screws in the "specialty screw" section at both stores.
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Old 01-09-2008, 09:57 AM #12
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I think I get it now. I just had a look at my angels and I see what you mean. If there is not 25mm screw in there the air from the valve chamber will go back to the noid and its too much pressure I take it. thanks for the post man this helps me out lots. I was all worried that I would have all kinds of crazy stuff to do but its not that bad at all. its too bad that I can't seal this one the way that I did the other 2 but thats ok it just would have made things easier but no biggie.

tell me something where did you get the screw from?
the stock screw only seals the bottom passageway. you need a longer one so it can also seal off the lpr passageway inside the tube. (the elliptical hole in the front picture of the gun with a screw in it)
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Old 01-09-2008, 11:20 AM #13
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sounds good now that I know everything that I have to I should not have any problems I just have to wait for the rest of my stuf and I can do it no problem.

I am just waiting on the valve guide, air barb and a banjo fitting for the volly mod on the other side

And now I don't have to do a post like this one cuse someone else beat meto it lol
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Old 01-09-2008, 12:22 PM #14
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And now I don't have to do a post like this one cuse someone else beat meto it lol
Sorry man... I got bored and have been home sick from work... you inspired me to try this on my gun. So credit to you and of course Chris and Farg.
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Old 01-09-2008, 12:25 PM #15
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Looks good. One thing to consider if you're using an end cap for the LPR is that you may also want to drill out two divots (not full holes) on the end cap next to the 1/8" NPT reg adapter hole so that you can screw the end cap in before you install the reg. That way you can make sure the end cap is fully threaded in and sealed, and also ensure that your LPR output port is facing the right way.
YES!!! I forgot to mention this. As Dr. said... this would be the only way to extract the endcap/LPR. Make sure you don't drill the two holes all the way through or you'll have a huge leak. Also, when tapping 1/8" NPT hole... don't tap it all the way through. Make sure to tap a little, test the LPR in the threads, then tap some more. NPT threads are tapered to create seals, tapping it all the way through makes the NPT threads pointless.
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Old 01-09-2008, 01:00 PM #16
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hey man its all good. I don't mind at all cuse now I know what I have to do and how to do it before I was kinda lost. I just want to get all the stuff.

On a side note if there is anyone that wants to do the "volly gauge" mod for the battery tube, tippmann has a "banjo fitting" that will work really well for the air line. http://www.tippmannparts.com/index.c...&categoryID=60 it has 10/32 threads on it and it will work great.

Also wondering how much bigger did you make the inlet hole form the vert asa?
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Old 01-09-2008, 03:12 PM #17
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hey man its all good. I don't mind at all cuse now I know what I have to do and how to do it before I was kinda lost. I just want to get all the stuff.

On a side note if there is anyone that wants to do the "volly gauge" mod for the battery tube, tippmann has a "banjo fitting" that will work really well for the air line. http://www.tippmannparts.com/index.c...&categoryID=60 it has 10/32 threads on it and it will work great.

Also wondering how much bigger did you make the inlet hole form the vert asa?
Yeah, the Tippmann Banjo fittings are what I'm using on my deal.

Let me get back to you on the size of the inlet hole. I used off-sized drill bits to get it as large as I thought was possible.

The bobbin just came in from fma.... I'll report back in a few with new pics!

Wish me luck!
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Old 01-09-2008, 05:44 PM #18
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GUYS.... HEADS UP.... DO NOT USE RED THREAD LOCKER ON THE 25MM SET SCREW.... I'M HAVING SERIOUS ISSUES WITH IT RIGHT NOW.... WILL REPORT BACK IN A FEW
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Old 01-09-2008, 05:46 PM #19
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man that does not sound good at all good luck with that man hope everything is ok
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Old 01-09-2008, 05:46 PM #20
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Leaking issues?
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Old 01-09-2008, 06:12 PM #21
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^That happened to me too at first. Be careful with the pressures when you test it so you don't break the noid. If the screw leaks you get the valve pressure into the noid airway. Good thing that old LCD noid was built like a tank.
Here's the trick for getting it airtight: put the loctite on the thread when you screw it in and midway on the exposed threads in the tube so it seals above too.

And don't forget that you need to grind the tube inside and grub screw down to be sooth like before the mod if you want to be able to remove the valve for service or replacement sometime later. See my old pics on this.
Make sure it's airtight first though.

Anyway, keep tinkering guys.
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