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Old 10-29-2007, 11:14 PM #1
Gailon
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***Quest Information Thread***

Quest Sticky Thread
PLEASE DO NOT REPLY TO THIS THREAD!

Last Update: 7/15/09
Next Edit: Trying to find new links to more part upgrade pictures; PM me if you find broken links I missed



Contents:
  1. Quest Info
    1. -Quest Versions
  2. Tech Info
    1. FEP Contact Info
    2. Parts Breakdown and Troubleshooting
    3. O-Ring Functions and Common Problems
    4. First-time owners Basics
    5. Animations/Airflow
    6. Setting the Regulators
    7. Replacement Solenoid Harness
  3. Quest Boards/Chips/Manuals
  4. FEP Hardgoods/Upgrades/Parts
  5. Non-FEP Upgrades/Parts
    1. Aftermarket or PBN Parts
    2. Orings/Screws
  6. Pictures/videos/Reviews
    1. Links to Threads
    2. X-Rays of OG Quest
  7. FAQs
  8. Voided Warranty
    1. Bronc's Bolt Pin Mod
    2. Solenoid Replacement
  9. Thanks and Update Log




Important News Bulletins

***Quest Repair Center***
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cole69 View Post
We at FEP want to let our loyal customers know of a small change to the structure of our organization. This upcoming season, we have made the commitment to devote 100% of our efforts to developing the newest, most advanced, and best performing product possible. Since we have so many exciting developments in the pipeline, we have decided to devote our entire staff (including all techs) to our R&D efforts.
As a result, we have decided to have Critical Paintball take over as the official service and repair center for FEP products. Critical Paintball’s NPPL team has used FEP Quests exclusively for the entirety of the 2007 season, and their staff has been extensively trained in the maintenance and service of all FEP products. Their experience with the Quest is unparalleled, and made it an easy decision to approach them to become the official FEP service center. So if you need any repairs or maintenance done to any FEP product, please contact Critical Paintball. They will also be keeping a stockpile of parts as well as their aftermarket upgrades for the Quest.
This arrangement between Critical Paintball and FEP will allow us to accelerate our efforts to bring new product to the marketplace. Keep a lookout for some revolutionary things to come from FEP in the upcoming season, you definitely won’t be disappointed.


Sincerely,

Chris Cole
President FEP


Please call Critical Paintball in advance for a RA# (Return Authorization Number) before shipping your gun to them.

Critical Paintball
19450 Business Center Dr
Northridge, CA 91324
800-492-8221
818-407-4805
Email sales@criticalpaintball.com
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackballed View Post
While the majority of the information listed above is true with regard to R&D, new products, etc., FEP customers should be advised that Critical Paintball is by no means the West Coast Service Center. Also, to the best of my knowledge they do not have a stock pile of FEP parts. Any and all repairs, technical issues, RMA requests, etc., should continue to be directed to FEP at the contact information listed below.

Please don’t misunderstand what I’m saying above. FEP and Critical Paintball have a very good working relationship. They shoot FEP guns and are very knowledgeable about FEP products. However, at this point in time FEP is by no means so overwhelmed that they can’t handle their own customer phone calls, emails, product requests/questions, repair requests, and warranty issues.

Those of you who know me know what I’m saying is factual. If you have any questions, you should continue to contact FEP directly. FEP’s mailing address is: First Endeavor Paintball, 1601 Pacific Avenue, Suite 204, Oxnard, CA 93030. Phone and email information is: Phone 805 487-5297, Fax 805 487-5462, Email info@firstendeavorpaintball.com or dsp1733@aol.com.
Yeah I'm confused, too.

  • FEP IS NOT DEAD; The company is in transition to new personnel
  • A lot of the ONE TIME low price liquidation guns recently sold were sitting on the shelves for probably 2 years, and though some were, many were NOT used as "tech class" teaching guns. So a lot of our new owners take their Quest out of the box and expect it to shoot ropes but they don't simply because it hasn't been cared for for 2 years and all the parts are frozen. Lesson: Full breakdown and relube! If you don't know how, go to your local field or store and get someone to teach you!

Last edited by Gailon : 07-15-2009 at 05:30 PM.
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Old 10-29-2007, 11:15 PM #2
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Quest Info

Basic Quest Description
The Quest Paintball Marker comes fully stocked with a host of features. Designed with the player in mind, its' sleek compact appearance is not only aesthetically appealing, but functional as well. The Slider Frame offers 2 positions for the player to choose from, a forward set of frame holes for the front player in mind or a further back set for all the back players out there. The trigger guard is enlarged to fit any sized hands on the triggers sweet spot. The Spot Trigger comes fully adjustable and equipped with bearings and a magnetic return. Both dually needed because at a blazing fast 23bps speed and with a 1500 rd capability (68/4500), The Quest will outshoot and outlast the competition.

For the tournament player at heart it comes cocker threaded, so no need to cart around another set of barrels, integrated snatch grip for the long walks from the pits to the field, and a trigger programmable board including NXL, PSP, and standard semi-auto modes. Together with a clamping feedneck and break beam anti-chop eyes The Quest is capable of fitting a variety of loaders and shooting paint break free.

With its simplistic 2-piece internal Bolt/Pin combo, maintenance and repair are a breeze. No more putting bolts back together backwards, or inserting a cup seal wrong. A quick wipe down and re-grease and your back on the field shooting fools all day long. Also included in the package is FEP's 007 2-piece barrel boasting a 7" control bore.
With a combination of The Quest & 007 barrel, accuracy and consistency excel above all others!

Specifications:

Colors ~ Gloss: Red, Blue, Black, Pewter. Dust: Red, Blue, Black, Pewter, Olive
Operation ~ Electro-Pneumatic
Power ~ 9V Battery
Length ~ 9.8" w/o Barrel - 21"" Overall
Height ~ 7.5"
Width ~ 1.2"
Weight ~ 1lb 14oz w/o Barrel - 2lb 3oz w/ Barrel
Max Rate of Fire ~ 23+ bps
Modes of Fire ~ Semi-Auto, PSP, NXL
Eye Sensor ~ Break-Beam Anti-Chop Eyes
Propellant ~ Compressed Air/Nitrogen Only
Operating Pressure ~ 220 psi
Cycling Pressure ~ 85 psi
Efficiency ~ 1500rds per 68/4500 Fill
Barrel Threads ~ Cocker
Barrel ~ 14" 0.690 2-Piece w/ 7" Control-Bore

Original Company Info Thread
Quest vs. ... Thread

Quest Versions:

OG Quest:
*Note that FEP no longer refers to differences in OG markers as generations

-Classic Body Style

Chronological Production Changes/Additions:
  1. Angel Grips and Grip Frame Screw Holes
  2. Original v2.1 Chip Board
  3. Light colored Gloss annos
  4. .689 barrel back
  5. Grips replaced with Thin Skull Grips with FEP custom grip screw holes
  6. Board replaced with WAS board
  7. Annos Changed to darker Gloss anno
  8. LPR Gauge added
  9. Dust Anno Option added
  10. Barrel back replaced with .696 back
  11. Grips replaced with Thick Skull Grips using FEP custom screw holes
  12. Board replaced with Lucky boards
  13. Polish Anno Option Removed
  14. Barrel back replaced with .691 back
  15. Board replaced with v2.3 Chip board

07 Quest:

-New body style
-Available in Limited Edition Annos
-Available in Limited Jacksonville Raider Edition

Here are some cool Pictures I found in some of my old folders, including a picture of the original FEP grips that left blue ink on your hands/gloves!


Last edited by Gailon : 03-05-2009 at 02:42 PM.
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Old 10-29-2007, 11:16 PM #3
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Tech Info

Quest Parts Breakdown and Troubleshooting:
Parts Breakdown and Pictures
Troubleshooting Guide


O-Ring Functions and Common Problems:

Bolt pin

Back o-ring (1st, counting from the back) - this seals air in to the back of the marker. A leak around the back of the pin can be resolved by cleaning and greasing - or if necessary, replacing - this o-ring.

2nd o-ring - this o-ring separates low pressure air from the solenoid, from HP air entering the back of the bolt kit. If this o-ring leaks, you will see a pressure increase on the LP gauge, and your bolt will be pushed forwards.

This may lead to your marker firing when you gas it up.

Middle o-ring (3rd from the back) - this o-ring also separates LP and HP air, though this time, the HP air in question is stored in the dump chamber. Again, if this o-ring leaks, your bolt will be forced forwards, and the marker may fire when gassed up.

Hard to tell which of these two o-rings is at fault, as the symptoms are the same, so you can either switch each out in turn, and see which fixes the problem, or you may just prefer to switch them both out - after all, if they are both the same age, they probably have similar levels of wear.

4th o-ring - this o-ring stops more air entering the dump chamber when the bolt is forwards, ensuring that the marker shoots from a fixed volume of air. If you have lower than expected shot counts when running long dwell settings, this o-ring may need cleaning or replacing.

Front o-ring (5th from back) - this o-ring seals air in the dump chamber prior to the marker firing. A leak down the barrel could be down to this o-ring.

Bolt

Rear o-ring - this is the bolt sail o-ring - the o-ring on which the LP air acts to cycle the bolt back and forth. If this o-ring is dirty or damaged, the bolt may not cycle, or it may be pushed forwards. Again, this could lead to the marker firing when it is gassed up.

The difference between this and the pin o-rings, is that a pressure change will not register on the LP gauge.

Middle o-ring - this is another o-ring that separates HP and LP air. If this o-ring is dirty or needs replacing, you will see the LP gauge pressure rise, but in this instance, the bolt will stay in the rear position.

Front o-ring - if this o-ring is dirty or needs replacing, it will cause a leak down the barrel. Again, it is hard to know whether it is this o-ring or the front pin o-ring that is the cause of a leak down the barrel, so you will need to either try each o-ring in turn, or replace both.


FEP Contact Info and Return Instructions:

Here is the info for sending your gun in, calling the shop with questions and the website for ordering. You can always call the shop and place your orders!

FEP TAKES PAYPAL!!!!!

Sending your guns for work? CALL FIRST then send here:

CORPORATE ADDRESS:
First Endeavor Paintball, Inc.
1601 Pacific Ave. #204
Oxnard, CA 93033

Phone: 805-487-5297
Fax: 805-487-5462
Email: info@firstendeavorpaintball.com
Website: www.firstendeavorpaintball.com

When in doubt on any question or help call the shop!!!!

1. Call FEP.
2. FEP gives you an RMA number.
3. You put the RMA number on the outside of the box so it is CLEARLY visable.
4. HERE IS THE IMPORTANT PART: Include contact information, warranty card, problem, and what you have done; Even if you’ve already explained it on the phone!
5. Mail to the correct address.

FEP has received markers with NOTHING but the marker in the box. They are mailed from stores (UPS, FedEx, etc) with NO return information. Not even a name on the box. It makes it hard to have good customer service from the repair department if they cannot contact the sender. I'm sure most people would want the marker back ASAP.


Correct Battery Installation:


First Time Quest Owner Basics:
Many ballers have been able to shoot their quests at insanely low pressures such as Cdimic with 35-45 psi. DON’T ATTEMPT this until your gun is thoroughly broken in. Once you have balled a whole summer with it then try adjustments. There is no reason to rush into tweaking your settings to soon. <<<THIS is what we believe has caused the majority of the shootdown issues and consistency issues some experience.

A solid 75-100 lpr will treat you just fine. Many long time members keep their LPR at about 80. We get a barely noticeable amount of kick but never worry about FSDO. Don’t mess with perfection. Leave the markers as stock as possible with 80-100 psi. ONCE broken in, and you have learned the gun then slowly tweak it. Drop it 5psi a month or so.


LU_aDaK’s 10 Max Performance Tips.

1) NEW BATTERIES, (not dollar store ones) - a new battery can fix a million issues before you create more issues messing with settings, lube amounts, and pressure.

2) Middle urethane bolt oring!

3) HATER SAUCE FTW

4) Don’t overlube the regulators

5) Lube bolt and pin every case.

6) Don’t mess with your settings just because you can.

7) AntiBolt stick is your friend it will help your get rid of your FSDO without making you raise your dwell to high.

8) If your lpr is creeping, check your lpr spring, if its soft (depresses more than a few millimeters), call fep and get a new one.

9) ****If FEP LOCKTIGHTED any part on your gun, DONT UNDO IT! Red Locktight should be like a stopsign, red means put your tools away and don’t touch unless they tell you to.....which im betting they wont.

10) Enjoy the Quest, show it off.


Animations/Airflow:


ADD: Pictures of Oring Locations and sizes

Regulator Settings:
1) Turn the HPR in (clockwise) about 3 threads past flush on the bottom of the regulator housing.
2) Turn the LPR regulator in (clockwise) until the marker begins to fire and stop.
3) After the marker starts to fire, turn the LPR 1/4 - 1/2 a turn further in and leave alone.
4) Take the marker to a chronograph and turn the HPR in for an increase in velocity or out for a decrease in velocity to achieve 300 fps.

How to Manually Set an HPR to approximately 220psi:

Set up a spare asa adaptor with a gauge and turn off the on/off or plug the extra holes. Then screw in your regulator to the gauged ASA. That means your cp reg, 2 litre, stock reg, or whatever reg you’re using on your gun. Then run tank pressure to this reg while its hooked up. Use the HPR wrenches to set your hpr OUTPUT by this gauge.

Use the lpr gauge on the gun to set THAT pressure.

AlternativePB Solenoid Harness Replacement How To:


Step 1. Remove grip frame and take the solenoid out of the marker.
Step 2. Remove broken solenoid harness off the solenoid, and clean the prongs.
Step 3. Solder on new solenoid harness and heat the heatshrink tubing over the solder joints.
Step 4. Unplug old battery harness from board, and plug in new battery harness.

Step 5. Install the solenoid back in the marker, and connect the solenoid harness to the battery harness:

Step 6. Install the grip frame back on marker, and make sure all the cables are not pinched... and tuckedaway. Install battery.

Step 7. Turn on marker, turn off eyes, and click the trigger to see if the solenoid is clicking.
Step 8. Close grips and you are done.

How to Check for Eye Physical vs. Electronic Problems: (Advanced users)

To make sure the eyes/board weren't bad I had stock eyes and an APE board. The APE people recommended:

Try a setpoint default operation first.

Next, try a test to see if the board eye input is functional:
(WARNING: Not responsible for you frying your board. Don't try this if you don't know what you're doing. This is an untested method and possibly only good for an APE board!)
Pull the eye harness out of the socket.
Take a small screwdriver and short the 2 top socket pins together.
Pull the trigger twice... LED should change to purple (empty breech)
Remove the screwdriver, LED should revert to semi.

If that works, the board is working and eyes are bad.

Last edited by Gailon : 07-15-2009 at 05:30 PM.
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Old 10-29-2007, 11:17 PM #4
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Quest Boards/Manuals:

BPS Status (Thanks to Uziel_gal)
Virtue boards adjust down to 10.5bps.

APE boards adjust down to 10bps.

WAS boards adjust down to 10bps.

Spitfire board adjusts down to 9bps.

ACE board adjusts down to 9bps.

The Casablanca board adjusts down to 9bps.

Chip boards will obviously depend on what chip is being used: -

Predator chips adjust down to 10bps.

Nox chips originally only went down as far as 14bps, but can be updated to go down to 10bps.

Hater chip goes down to 11bps - not sure if they are being flashed to go lower.

Inoviq chips originally adjusted down to 14bps, but I believe that they have now been updated to go down to 10bps with Flash version 2.5.

Quest REV2.2 Chip Board (Inoviq Products); and Flash v2.1 Manual
The VX Series flash upgrade or chip replacement Revision 1.8 functions on green boards identified with "QUEST REV 2.2" When you enter programming mode the LED will first blink blue then blink purple letting you know you are in programming mode. This also tells you what Flash version of the chip you have - two blue blinks and one purple blink indicates Flash version 2.1

IN ORDER FOR YOUR GUN TO SHOOT LEGAL PSP MODE YOU MUST GET CHIP FLASH REVISION 1.9(green board). 1.8 DOES NOT WORK PROPERLY.


WAS Board (Not available commercially) Manual


Lucky Ace Board Product and Manual (down) and another site with the Manual (up)

Manual Discrepancies:
*The dip switches for 1 and 4 are reversed. For Program Mode, set 1 to On.
*There is a low battery indicator. It blinks red once when the battery is low.

Lucky Spitfire Board (Not available commercially) Manual (down) and another copy of the Manual (down), and another copy of the Manual (up)


Casablanca Board Available Commercially in Europe (Product) or on PBN from RobinSucks in BST Thread (Temporarily Down) and Manual and Setup Chart


Note on Lucky Ace/Spitfire and Casablanca Boards
Quote:
Originally Posted by spitfire_tech View Post
The Ace board and the spitfire board were the same they were just flashed with different versions of software, they are still [physically] the same [board] now only flashed with sorins casablanca software. Ace was a chopped down version of the spitfire code just giving you less adjustability.
Virtue Board Product and Manual and another copy of the Manual


APE/Raider Board Product and Manual


Quest REV2.3 Chip Board (Inoviq Products) Flash v2.3 Manual and Flash v2.4 Manual
The VX Series flash upgrade or chip replacement Revision 2.4 functions on black boards identified with "QUEST REV 2.3" and has the FEP logo near the power button. When you enter programming mode the LED will first blink blue then blink purple letting you know you are in programming mode. This also tells you what Flash version of the chip you have - two blue blinks and four purple blink indicates Flash version 2.4

IN ORDER FOR YOUR GUN TO SHOOT LEGAL PSP MODE YOU MUST GET CHIP FLASH REVISION 2.5(black board). 2.4 DOES NOT WORK PROPERLY.


Nox Chip for Chip board only Product and Manual
Note: Possible compatibility issue with Quest REV2.3 Chip board


Hater Chip for Chip board only Product and Manual


Original (oldest) Chip Board Quest Manual - Use this for an Inoviq Chip that "blinks all kinds of crazy colors when entering program mode" rather than blue/purple

WAS Board Quest Manual

Last edited by Gailon : 07-25-2012 at 11:07 AM.
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Old 10-29-2007, 11:18 PM #5
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Quest Upgrades/Parts

FEP Hardgoods:
Scroll over picture for link!!!

Snatchpin
For Quick, tool-less removal of your bolt pin.


Headlock
For Quick, tool-less removal of your hopper! Don't replace your feedneck, just replace the clamp!


GM bolt

The Gold Member (GM) bolt is the only upgrade bolt for the FEP Quest. It is made by First Endeavor Paintball, just as the Quest is.

Where can I get one?
It is available on their website, FirstEndeavorPaintball.com, as well as Paintballkingdom.com, CriticalPaintball.com, and cpspaintball.com.

Why bother to get a GM bolt?
The GM bolt will get you an additional 225 or so shots out of your tank. If you feel that you need better efficiency, or just want to upgrade your Quest to its fullest potential, the Gold Member bolt is for you! The difference between this bolt and the stock bolt is oring position.

***Some earlier Gold Member bolts had problems. They would break in half.***

How to tell if your Gold Member bolt has a problem:

There are several ‘spindles’ or ‘pins’, on the GM bolt. If you have a faulty bolt, they will eventually crack. A small quantity of these defective bolts were made, then the bolt was redesigned and the problem solved. In the meantime a few "silver"members were made which were goldmember bolts silver in color. You can tell the difference between a stock bolt and a high efficiency goldmember by the o-ring locations.

Some GM bolts had some of the spindles starting to crack. One ‘spindle’ was no longer connected. Other bolts seemingly were perfect then in mid-game would break and start to leak air down the barrel and no longer fire.

What should I do if my GM bolt starts to crack?
You are going to get a new bolt. Sorry! There is not a company currently replacing them for free.

FEP Barrel Kit
Rare and Limited runs made. Cocker threaded with a dust black .696 .693 .690 and .687 barrel back and a dust black front. Note, unlike this picture, mine came with dust black backs with the new FEP logo and the front was dust black with 007 around the tip with vent holes


FEP Rails
Classic Rail and Cylon Rail


FEP ASA


FEP Grips
Skulls Grips and OG Grips (green, pink, white, yellow)


Stars and Stripes Grips

Last edited by Gailon : 06-03-2009 at 09:47 AM.
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Old 10-29-2007, 11:19 PM #6
Gailon
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Aftermarket or PBN Parts:

Non-FEP aftermarket grips:
Stinger Paintball Designs Viper Grips


DarkSeoul grips NIB Forum Thread


Crankwalk NIB Forum Thread
  • Laser Eyes
  • Battery/Solenoid Harness
  • Normal IR Eyes


erayser (alternativepb.com) Solenoid/Battery Harness


*Note: Solenoid harness is pre-tin'd and comes with shink tubing, so soldering is required.

Inoviq 3-Wire Eye Harness


Inoviq 4-Wire Battery Harness


Inoviq 4-Wire Laser Eye Harness (Red/Green/Blue)


Critical Trigger


Orings/Screws:
O-Ring Sizes:
• 006- Under the LPR
• 011- LPR Piston
• 014- Bolt Pin
• 015- HPR Piston
• 017- Front of Bolt
• 017 Urethane- Breech and middle bolt
• 018- Back of bolt and bolt pin and in between LPR and body

Screw Sizes:
• Front grip frame screw - 10/32 x 7/8 buttonhead
• Rear grip frame screw - 10/32 x 5/8 buttonhead
• (6) Grip screws - 8/32 x 5/16 flathead
• (2) Eye cover screws - #2-56 x 3/16 socket cap screw
• Feed clamp screw - 10/32 x 1/2 socket cap
• LPR screw (LPR to the body, NOT the adjusting screw) - 10/32 x 3/4 buttonhead
• Board Screws - 4-40 X 3/16

Markerkits.com
Oring Kit


Repair Kit


Bulk Urethane Orings

McMaster-Carr
Bulk Orings

Last edited by Gailon : 06-20-2009 at 06:13 PM.
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Old 10-29-2007, 11:20 PM #7
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Pictures/Videos/Reviews
X-Rays of OG Quest

Entire OG Quest body (not stock reg)









Last edited by Gailon : 03-06-2009 at 11:17 AM.
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Old 10-29-2007, 11:21 PM #8
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FAQs
  • What barrel size does the Quest come with?
    1. Some came with .689, some with .691, some with .696. In general, the older the quest, the smaller the bore it came with.
  • What lube should I use?
    1. Hater Sauce
  • What is the feedneck threading?
    1. FEP custom
  • Will a Quest chip board take chips from other markers?
    1. The quest boards that take chips are basically DM4/5 clone boards, EXCEPT they have one less button. The firing and eye logic will work the same, but some of the available functions won't be available and the logic will fail under some conditions. If the eyes turn off, the board will stop working for example.
  • Will my Quest come with an on/off?
    1. Some late manufactured OG Quests and most 07 Quests come with a simple ASA and rail. Most Quest owners replace them with an aftermarket on/off and rail or drop.
  • How do I change the macro location on the HPR?
    1. Take off the HPR (might require taking off grip frame, be careful of wires!) and put a tank o-ring on the “outside” of the HPR over the threads to screw into the gun. The reg can then be rotated to move the macro input to a more desired location, most often against the trigger guard. Add Pics
  • HP or LP Tank?
    1. It doesn't matter. A Quest will run on either. Many FEP family members choose HP

Last edited by Gailon : 01-08-2008 at 02:26 PM.
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Old 10-29-2007, 11:22 PM #9
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Voided Warranty
(Okay so theoretically there are no warranties anymore, but still...)

More Coming Soon

Solenoid Replacement
I'm putting this in the Voided Warranty section because 9 times out of 10 (or more!) you DON'T need to replace that solenoid!

The Quest uses the same solenoid as DM4/5/C and PM5 as well as vintage Matrix

Solenoid Part Number: VQZ1151K-9G-X86
Solenoid Coil Part Number: V111K-VG



You can get new in box solenoids from www.paintballkingdom.com.

However, a leak from the solenoid does not necessarily mean a blown solenoid - you could replace the solenoid, just to find that you still have the same problem.

What is the pressure reading on your gauge? The gauge measures the LPR pressure not the pressure used to fire the ball. It shouldn't read more than 100psi - FEP suggest 85psi.

If it is 200psi or so, then that means that either the LPR pressure is turned up way too high, the LPR's Schrader valve isn't functioning correctly, or HP and LP gas are mixing inside the marker.

There are three o-rings inside the marker that separate HP and LP air - the middle bolt o-ring, and the second and third o-rings on the pin, counting from the back. If any of these o-rings leaks, too much pressure is sent to the solenoid.

The solenoid copes with the excess pressure by venting it.

The rear bolt sail o-ring could also cause air to leak out of the manifold if it needs replacing, as it will allow air to pass from the side of the solenoid supplying air to the bolt kit, to the side venting spent air out of the solenoid.

Long story short - a leaking solenoid is not necessarily a blown solenoid; worn or dirty o-rings on the pin and bolt can cause your solenoid to leak. Replacing a few o-rings is cheaper than splashing out $80 on a new solenoid, and may well fix your problem.

Bronc’s Bolt Pin Mod:

It's just a simple tape mod for your bolt pin.. After experimenting he was able to reduce about 1/3 of the overall volume in the dump chamber without any effect on his HPR pressure or velocity.

It changed the sound signature a bit to; people told him it started to sound like a Marq. Weird

The right way to do it would be to start at the rear of the dump chamber and wrap tape about 2/3 of the way up towards the o-ring. Then put another roll next to it and go up about 1/3 of the way up. That's it.

Of course tape isn't exact science, but his new kit will have a different size dump chamber and be more efficient out of the box.









Basically, the dump chamber holds A LOT more air then it really needs to shoot the gun, so I started working on reducing the volume. The results were amazing!

Normal: 2000psi from a 45ci/4500psi tank gets 3 pods
Mod: 1200psi from a 45ci/4500psi tank gets 3 pods.

Just electrical tape, but it's a smaller size then the normal black stuff. See, start at the back of the dump chamber. Go 2/3 of the way up, and then make another roll about 1/4 the way up. Lube and go back and shoot.

The key to test this:

Shoot your gun normally over a chrono at 285fps. Add the tape. Shoot it over the chrono again. If the velocity stays the same, you're good to go. If it drops, you put on a little too much tape. You can obviously experiment with adding more or less and raising or lower the pressure to your liking.

Last edited by msonic : 02-01-2013 at 07:51 PM.
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Old 10-29-2007, 11:23 PM #10
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Location: Baltimore
Special Thanks to:
LU_aDaK (Starter guide, videos, knowledge), Physcojosh (videos), bballryand316 (information searching), Gen (animation), david_1190 and Sagg (previous stickies), HarvesterOfSorrow (closeup pics), niteHawk (production storyline compilation), Chickenmunga (oldest Chip info), tykomyk (Ace Picture), johnyblaze139 and Dustdevil21 (virtue manual), tEh PwNz1c0r (WAS pic and solenoid how to), eatafetus (xrays), Uziel Gal (so much knowledge and plagarizing by me haha)



Update Log:
  • 10/29 Original Installment
  • Week of 10/29 unrecorded fixes
  • 11/5/07 Added FEP Hardgoods and links to FEP store
  • 11/6/07 Added Production StoryLine
  • 11/9/07 Added Critical Trigger and Orings Section
  • 11/13/07 Added Links Parts and Troubleshooting from Quest Manual, don't like download method though
  • 12/19/07 Added erayser battery/solenoid replacement
  • 12/20/07 Added AlternativePB solenoid/harness replacement how to
  • 1/7/08 Added More info on Chip/Board Difference and Ace Picture
  • 1/8/08 Major Board update...Product links, Pictures, changing around post numbers since I had too many pics! Added Virtue Board Manual
  • 3/31/08 Added Voided Warranty Section and Bronc's Bolt Pin Mod
  • 3/5/09 Updated Hard Parts images and FEP company status
  • 6/5/09 Fixed links to a few pictures and added Uziel Gal's Info on Solenoids

Last edited by Gailon : 06-04-2009 at 08:45 AM.
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Old 03-31-2008, 01:03 PM #11
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Old 12-10-2008, 03:17 PM #12
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Last edited by Gailon : 03-06-2009 at 11:19 AM.
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Old 05-04-2010, 10:06 PM #13
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***Quest Information Thread***

I picked up my first quest recently and it had a bad valve core. I was looking here for info, but could not find what I needed. I had my local auto parts match it for me, here is what I got:

2675 FJC
valve core

Its a AC core from a volvo. Matches size thread, etc. It is in mine now, and works well. Its a standard item, and most parts places should have or be able to get. If you need and can't find, I'll be happy to pick up a few more and sell them here.

the old one that came out and was broken is on the left. The replacement 2675 FJC on the right. I played the day with it, cycling about 1000 shots. Works fine, no leaks. Stayed constant around 80 psi.
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Old 04-22-2011, 01:19 PM #14
bunker276
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WAS board manual link doesn't work
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Old 04-22-2011, 01:30 PM #15
AustStar2007
 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bunker276 View Post
WAS board manual link doesn't work
yeah, that is a dead link. Someone has one on here though. I need one myself. However, the regular Quest manual covers most of what you need to know for board settings in there.
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Old 01-12-2012, 01:03 AM #16
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hey, if anyone is out there. i have a lucky spitfire board but it has a middle socket. what is that for?
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Old 01-12-2012, 09:22 AM #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skvngr100 View Post
hey, if anyone is out there. i have a lucky spitfire board but it has a middle socket. what is that for?
last link for spitfire manual in the sticky is working, get it from there.

Uploaded the WAS manual so we have it on hand and Uziel can use his inbox for something other than WAS manual requests.

http://www.mediafire.com/?iui5b8uhg9adxbj
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Old 01-12-2012, 09:52 AM #18
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Yeah I have the manuel but it doesn't have installation in it and dosent explain what the middle socket is for.
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Old 01-28-2012, 07:46 PM #19
Uziel Gal
It's not a Geo2, honest..
 
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Probably intended for installing firmware updates. As far as normal board function is concerned, you only need the other two sockets.
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Old 12-09-2012, 02:48 PM #20
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Patents?

Does anyone know the exact patents that the Quest covers. Like for example if someone wanted to start making them again........
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Old 05-25-2013, 01:07 PM #21
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i need a 2.2 manual that works badly
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