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Old 10-16-2007, 10:04 AM #1
shadoflame
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WGP Select Fire WorrFramE FAQ

Before we even start, please consult the manual. If you do not have one, Iram has provided one.
SF Frame manual

1. Are there any aftermarker boards for this frame?

No. eblade boards will fit, but will require you to cut a window and 3 holes for the screen and buttons. Tag sports/predator currently offers a firmware flash for 80 bucks plus shipping that will enable full adjustment and more shooting modes.

2. What modes are on this board?

Semi - no jumper
Auto - jumper on top (you will need to shoot 4 bps and hold on the 4th shot to get to full auto)
3 shot burst - jumper in middle
ramping - jumper on bottom

3. What can be adjusted on this board?

shooting modes and eyes on or off.

4. will an mq valve work?

it will physically fit, but without the adjustments for dwell/sear pulse, you will be very limited.

5. What do those lights mean?

slow flashing - semi
fast flashing - auto
3 short flashes - burst
2 short flashes - ramp

yellow light means eyes on and red means eyes off.

6. how do i get to demo mode?

first, turn your eyes off by holding down the button until it shines solid yellow. release the button before it turns red(if it turned red, you held it down too long and the gun is now off) the light will now be flashing red. press the button one time and it will then flash alternating red/yellow. you are now in demo mode. only the front solenoid will activate and the sear will not drop in this mode.

7. What after market triggers will fit this frame?

most e1 triggers will fit, not all of them, most. The samurai trigger does work in case you're considering that one.

8. My front solenoid or eyes wont work at all, what do i do?

remove the right grip panel and check if they're plugged into the board. if they are, test the gun without the grip frame on, if it works, then you were over tightening the upper right grip frame screw to the point where it pinches the wires. if it doesnt work, remove the trigger frame and inspect those wires, if they're shredded, then uhh... braid the wires back together and use some shrink tube.

9. My gun is super bouncy, how do i get rid of the bounce?

Re adjust the trigger, make the pull longer, and maybe heavier. most people have said that having the activation point in the middle of the pull reduces bounce also.

10. i want cooler looking grips, who makes grips for the sf frame?

no one makes grips for the sf frame except wgp. due to the ridges that contour your fingers, wrap around grips like e blade grips will not fit, so only panels will work. ego grips will line up, but you will have to shave a slot in each grip to fit the sear solenoid.

11. My frame didnt come with any jumpers, what do i do?

You have a european version of the SF frame, which didnt include a jumper to prevent using modes. go to radio shack or an electronics store and buy 2.54mm(.100") DIP Shunt Shorting Jumpers for .025" (.64mm) pins

12. my battery life is horrible. it's working fine one weekend and then the next weekend it dies out

the frame drains life from the battery even when it isnt on. i suggest removing the battery from the frame after each day of use. a good investment in the long run is to get rechargeable 9 volt batteries. it is expensive to get the charger, so maybe your team can pitch in for one.

13. im having trouble with the membrane pad, it just doesnt always respond

the membrane pad is a difficult switch to use. it works best with a solid push using the bone tip of the finger right below the led lights. please dont use your finger nail, it tends to miss the actual switch and may do damage.
if you are truly sure that the membrane pad is dysfunctional, you can call wgp for one or purchase it from online stores like compulsivepaintball.

14. my hammer isnt being released or it takes more than one trigger pull to do so

your lug is set too deep and the sear's range of movement isnt enough. you will need to unscrew the lug a little bit. to do so, de-gas gun, place hammer in foward position (for the really bad cases, remove grip frame to do so), remove bolt, insert long end of 1/8" allen wrench down into hammer until it's in the hole for the lug screw. turn the lug counter clockwise in quarter turn increments until the hammer can be released reliably.

15. my hammer isnt being held cocked back or is slipping easily.

check your lug to make sure it isnt rounded at the end. for e cockers, it should be flat. if not, get a flat one or file your existing one until it's flat.
if your lug is good, then it needs adjusting. follow the #14's instructions above for raising the lug, except lower it by turning it clockwise instead.

MORE TO COME
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Last edited by shadoflame : 10-24-2007 at 11:58 PM.
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Old 10-16-2007, 07:13 PM #2
Iram
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You could probably use a copy of the manual. See sig...
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Old 10-17-2007, 03:10 PM #3
shadoflame
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iram View Post
You could probably use a copy of the manual. See sig...
thanks, i placed the link into the beginning of the FAQ. i just found another faq for this frame created after mine, so far it just seems to repeat what the manual already says.
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Old 10-19-2007, 05:55 PM #4
The Insane Shane
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Originally Posted by The Insane Shane View Post
You know, when I created my FAQ I didn't have the thought of it trying to get stickied so much as I did trying to create a FAQ that was informative/helpful/easy to understand/organized and lots more, for the common paintball player that just needs a little help with their marker. I guess thats why mine came out better. I'm sorry to sound like the bad guy, but me and you know the truth.


-Shane
I posted this after your little stunt in my thread.

-Shane
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Old 10-24-2007, 11:59 PM #5
shadoflame
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updated.
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Old 10-26-2007, 06:21 AM #6
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i have a question to add to it... how fast will this thing shoot? i think the manual said 20+ bps for semi, 3-shot and full auto, while ramp was listed at only 15 bps? seems off since my friends ion is around 17 bps and it seems to be a lot faster. or is it correct?
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Old 10-26-2007, 07:14 AM #7
Iram
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maer9 View Post
up!
Don't up threads outside of the B/S/T section.

Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewsyndrm View Post
i have a question to add to it... how fast will this thing shoot? i think the manual said 20+ bps for semi, 3-shot and full auto, while ramp was listed at only 15 bps? seems off since my friends ion is around 17 bps and it seems to be a lot faster. or is it correct?
Yes, the numbers in the manual are correct.

That said, the reason the ion is faster could be one of four things:
1. Your hopper isn't keeping up (most likely). You've got a three part firing cycle instead of the two part cycle on the Ion. You need a faster hopper to keep up with that. If you're not running at least a HALO B with a high LPR setting don't expect to make it beyond 15 bps.

2. Your friends fingers may be faster, or he may have some of the "rebound" turned on. Obviously this is for semi only.

3. You're going by sound (to the human ear), and the ion just sounds different enough when cycling.

4. The grass is always greener on the other side...
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Old 10-26-2007, 03:33 PM #8
shadoflame
i can pump 30 bps, no AT.
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewsyndrm View Post
i have a question to add to it... how fast will this thing shoot? i think the manual said 20+ bps for semi, 3-shot and full auto, while ramp was listed at only 15 bps? seems off since my friends ion is around 17 bps and it seems to be a lot faster. or is it correct?
the ramp is capped at 15 for it to be tourney legal. i think xpsl makes you cap it at 15.

nppl is semi only and doesnt make you cap your rof.

full auto and burst are illegal to start with, so there's no point in capping it.
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Old 10-26-2007, 03:35 PM #9
shadoflame
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maer9 View Post
up!
you dont up threads here. btw, it's a cp classic barrel, not classical. if they had a classical, then im waiting for the jazz and rock barrels to come out.
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Old 10-26-2007, 08:27 PM #10
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Added to Cahuna sticky! However.. I do suggest proper grammar including use of capitalization and punctuation.

If you and 'The Insane Shane' decide to condense your threads into one thread, let me know!
-David
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Old 10-27-2007, 01:15 AM #11
shadoflame
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we're supposed to, but iunno what's going on.
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Old 10-27-2007, 08:08 AM #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iram View Post
Don't up threads outside of the B/S/T section.



Yes, the numbers in the manual are correct.

That said, the reason the ion is faster could be one of four things:
1. Your hopper isn't keeping up (most likely). You've got a three part firing cycle instead of the two part cycle on the Ion. You need a faster hopper to keep up with that. If you're not running at least a HALO B with a high LPR setting don't expect to make it beyond 15 bps.

2. Your friends fingers may be faster, or he may have some of the "rebound" turned on. Obviously this is for semi only.

3. You're going by sound (to the human ear), and the ion just sounds different enough when cycling.

4. The grass is always greener on the other side...
oooh.... well then now i can go tell my friend my ss is faster than his ion! he always thought he had speed on me, but ive never really played with him yet, im just talking about when i turn the marker on and just play around on semi and it makes that little "click" noise, it just seems like his ion is faster. but it could also be the trigger, he seems to shoot faster on it than i do, i dont really like the trigger, no matter how i adjust it i just need something not so wide.
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Old 10-27-2007, 08:51 AM #13
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Originally Posted by andrewsyndrm View Post
oooh.... well then now i can go tell my friend my ss is faster than his ion! he always thought he had speed on me, but ive never really played with him yet, im just talking about when i turn the marker on and just play around on semi and it makes that little "click" noise, it just seems like his ion is faster. but it could also be the trigger, he seems to shoot faster on it than i do, i dont really like the trigger, no matter how i adjust it i just need something not so wide.
If you're using the same hopper, and uncapped boards, I would expect the ion to be faster. It has a simplier and quicker cycle. With the LPR jacked up, and a GOOD (VLocity, HALO V35, or better), the gun will do 20 bps. Your fingers will not move anywhere near that fast, but the gun is can do it.

If you're just clicking the noid, make sure your eyes are off, or it will be really slow (until the auto eye off kicks in).

As for the trigger, an E1 trigger should fit. If you can find one, I'd recommend a Samurai E1 trigger (not be be confused with the Samurai E2 trigger). It's a little thinner, doesn't have the middle bump, and is angled back at the edges for a more rounded overall feel. http://www.skanline.com/pages-produc...er-silver.html

FYI

E1 triggers WILL fit in SF Frames.

SF triggers will NOT fit in the E1 frame.

There is a little extra metal in the E1 frame around the trigger pivot, which prevents the SF trigger from fitting. Since there is less metal in the SF frame in, there is no problem getting an E1 trigger to fit in a SF frame.
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Last edited by Iram : 10-27-2007 at 08:58 AM.
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Old 10-28-2007, 10:02 AM #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iram View Post
If you're using the same hopper, and uncapped boards, I would expect the ion to be faster. It has a simplier and quicker cycle. With the LPR jacked up, and a GOOD (VLocity, HALO V35, or better), the gun will do 20 bps. Your fingers will not move anywhere near that fast, but the gun is can do it.

If you're just clicking the noid, make sure your eyes are off, or it will be really slow (until the auto eye off kicks in).

As for the trigger, an E1 trigger should fit. If you can find one, I'd recommend a Samurai E1 trigger (not be be confused with the Samurai E2 trigger). It's a little thinner, doesn't have the middle bump, and is angled back at the edges for a more rounded overall feel. http://www.skanline.com/pages-produc...er-silver.html

FYI

E1 triggers WILL fit in SF Frames.

SF triggers will NOT fit in the E1 frame.

There is a little extra metal in the E1 frame around the trigger pivot, which prevents the SF trigger from fitting. Since there is less metal in the SF frame in, there is no problem getting an E1 trigger to fit in a SF frame.
ok thanks for all the help, im gonna order that trigger as soon as i can.
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Old 11-30-2007, 05:37 PM #15
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The E1 Samurai or the E2 Samurai.
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Old 11-30-2007, 07:44 PM #16
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for the sf frame, only the E1 samurai

Last edited by Shadow Crow : 07-28-2008 at 06:56 AM. Reason: tutorial
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Old 12-02-2008, 07:17 PM #17
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can you use an e1 noid with the sf frame?
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Old 12-02-2008, 10:31 PM #18
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yes you can
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Old 03-08-2009, 02:14 PM #19
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If I had a complete SF Frame (frame, noid, eye, etc), could I buy just the Eblade Frame (this), board, and misc stuff (buttons and display cover), and transfer over all the workings? (both solenoids, eye, trigger stuff, etc) to get a functional and working E1 equivalent?

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Old 03-08-2009, 06:49 PM #20
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yes you could... E1 triggers only. you could also use the SF board on that frame, but you'd have to do some adapting for the led panel, as it's not the same size as the LCD E1 screen. also you'd have to fill the button holes to prevent dust from getting inside.
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Old 03-09-2009, 11:25 AM #21
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So the selectfire sear solenoid is equivalent to the E1 sear solenoid? Completely interchangeable?
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