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Old 08-07-2007, 04:26 AM #1
XSVFAN890
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Lightbulb Rear cocking system

I want to make a rear cocker for my 98c, and I need some ideas on how. It won't be hard, I've got a couple ideas, but yours would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
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Old 08-07-2007, 04:56 AM #2
BallsOutPaintball03
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Just a ghetto idea:
Drill hole in backcap
Drill hole in both sides of bolt
Drill hole in rod "what you pull"
Stick a smaller rod through the holes in the bolt and rod.
Stick a cap on the end of the rod sticking out.
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Old 08-07-2007, 08:01 AM #3
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easiest way. honestly.

get a cocker pull pin,
drill a hole into the back as stated above,
and put some JB weld into the back hole of the hammer, NOTE YOU WILL NEED TO FIND A NEW HAMMER SPRING! and use the cocking rod as the spring guide, spyder clone spring work the best with this set up. then drill and tap a hole for the cocking rod threads and carve a setting space for the new spring on the end cap and the hammer
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Old 08-07-2007, 09:15 AM #4
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Drill hole in back cap inside one of the existing holes that are arrayed around the center hole that the spring guide goes in

Line up hole with hammer, and mark center point of hole (mark on upper portion of hammer, opposite the sear).

Drill and tap hammer for 10-32 at this point which lines up with the hole you put in the back cap

Cut off cocking pin flush with hammer (don't remove it, it holds the hammer together)

Place a 1" OD tube (3/4" pipe works alright if you have to, but it isnt as nice a fit) in left half of receiver, and hold it in place somehow.

Fill slot in receiver with JB Weld, Bondo, Whatever, and sand smooth to match contour of receiver half. (pipe is to minimize sanding inside the receiver afterwards).


Make a rear cocking rod that is 10-32 threaded at the end to go into the hammer, and smooth for the rest of it. Find a bolt that is only threaded for a short length at one end and smooth for the rest, or thread the end of a 3/16" steel rod to 10-32 to the appropriate length, and add some sort of a knob on the end to pull (possibly thread both ends to screw on a knob). Teflon tape may work fine to hold this into the hammer, loc-tite will work better but is harder to remove should you need to.

*This is the optional portion*
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Old 08-07-2007, 01:00 PM #5
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Nice ideas guys. I was thinkin something along the lines of Jonotwist's idea. Keep 'em comin.
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Old 08-07-2007, 02:00 PM #6
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all i have to say is have fun doing it because its a real ***** to get through the bolt with a drill, make sure you have hard metal dril bits and something like a vise to hold the bolt and then something else to start the hole cuz the bit goes everywhere but it takes so much work to get thru the bolt....
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Old 08-07-2007, 02:49 PM #7
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If the bolt is hardened as Fallen says then a carbide drill bit will cut it but a tap to thread it will just break. So to do the work you'll have to anneal the metal, drill and tap the hole(s) and then re-harden and temper it back to the original hardness level. That's a hit and miss sort of deal unless you've got some serious torch to do the heat treating and the knowledge of how.
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Old 08-07-2007, 06:15 PM #8
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I didn't have any problems doing mine with just a regular drill bit. Center punch the spot to drill to prevent it from walking around on you, and hold it securely in a vice, preferably on a drill press. Unless they changed the way the hammer is made, mine has an outer hardened hammer, and an inner softer core. The softer core is what aligns with the holes in the back cap, plenty easy to drill and tap.






Pardon the incredibly chintzy beavertail, it is functional, I made it in 10 minutes with crap I had laying around, and made it when the extent of my metal working tools were a drillpress and hacksaw.

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Old 08-07-2007, 06:45 PM #9
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ignore them all its way easier to do it is buy lp kit and you love your gun 10x's more with it.
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Old 08-07-2007, 06:47 PM #10
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Originally Posted by czeq_bouncer View Post
ignore them all its way easier to do it is buy lp kit and you love your gun 10x's more with it.
Voided Warranty is not the buy this add on because it is easier forum.
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Old 08-07-2007, 06:53 PM #11
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^^^^QFT i would drill the hole in the back plate and the bolt and tap for a autococker coking rod.
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Old 08-07-2007, 07:15 PM #12
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Make it top cocking. Just drill a hole through the top of the hammer/striker and use your stock knob, and mill/dremel the top of the body.
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Old 08-07-2007, 07:50 PM #13
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Voided Warranty is not the buy this add on because it is easier forum.
but i didnt think it was make your gun look like absolute **** forum either
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Old 08-07-2007, 08:56 PM #14
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v0da900, that would be perfect, but the piece inside of mine is plastic. Did you make the metal piece?
Czeq, It looks custom...not ****ty
TheGiant, I thought about it, and if this doesn't work out, I'll do top-cocking.
Thanks for the suggestions, and if you can think of a good way to do a rear/top cocker for an A.C.T. that would be great.
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Old 08-07-2007, 09:22 PM #15
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Nope, it was stock on mine (the metal core). It is from 2001 though, they might have changed to plastic in later versions. Going top requires a new hole in the hammer, like mentioned, but that is the part that may be hardened, and somewhat difficult to drill through.

Tapping the plastic should work fine though, there isn't all that much stress on it cocking it back from the spring, and there is very very little stress induced from the cycling mass of the new cocking rod. Might want to consider making the threading go deeper if it is plastic though.

And I'm well aware it isn't the cleanest job, but I think I did alright given the lack of proper tools for the job, I would do a substantially neater job now with the proper tools. Function over form
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Old 08-07-2007, 09:41 PM #16
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Well, heres what
I have to work with...

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Old 08-07-2007, 10:28 PM #17
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i have never understood rear cocking guns. it is just one more thing to hit you in the face, and it makes the set up hella longer. Im a fan of top cocking guns. but if you like it, then whatever, it isnt my gun, so it isnt my prefrence
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Old 08-07-2007, 11:15 PM #18
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I mean...I can do a top-cocking one with my other one...I just don't like side-cocking
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Old 08-08-2007, 12:34 AM #19
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Ok, heres the plan...on the rear bolt, I will drill right on the rim...like v0da's, but on the rim...not the core, and I will get an autococker cocking rod, screw it to the bolt, and drill thru the end cap. Any flaws that you guys can see? And I need some ideas for a top cocker for an A.C.T. Model. Thanks for the input
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Old 08-08-2007, 07:09 AM #20
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If you want to drill the outer hammer, make sure it is thick enough to still have meat leftover after you tap it. It also won't line up with the holes in the rear cap, and you can't use them as guides for drilling.
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Old 08-08-2007, 09:18 PM #21
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CRAP!!! I guess I could find an older bolt and do what you did...
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