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Old 03-26-2007, 09:08 PM #64
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Ram Cap Spring Mod:
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=2071667
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Old 04-21-2007, 12:32 PM #65
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this should be stickied everywhere. I needed to find images of how the lpr goes back together. couldn't find images anywhere and Bob Longs Alias manual is down. I googled the crap out of any key words I could. none of the helpful links here put me in the right place. eventually found this website and they have better manual schematics than Bob long ;p
http://www.ultratwistedpaintball.biz/page/TECHMAIN.html
apparantly I put something backwords and it was hard to get out ;p the gold piston. make sure the nose of it is visible/into the spring so you can needle-nose it next time it needs a lube. Got it out when putting air in the gun/push the piston forward with an allen and let go. the pressure should pop it out ;p
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Old 05-12-2007, 10:17 AM #66
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Timmy Library

List of each body style and what generation they fall in with pictures.
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Old 06-19-2007, 01:12 AM #67
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Rendition Tech's Solenoid disassembly guide

NOTE: I TAKE NO CREDIT FOR THIS, I'M JUST POSTING IT HERE SO PEOPLE WILL HAVE A GOOD GUIDE WITH PICS THAT WORK TO FOLLOW.

here is the link to the original thread now archived http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=1329916


!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Do this at your own risk! This is like open heart surgery on your gun! Only do this if your solenoid starts leaking,

doesnt cycle, or is just plain dead. Before doing this, double check your battery, hoses, barbs, LPR Pressure @

80psi, dwell @ 9ms, and make sure your ram, and regs are lubricated. This is the point of no return!
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Tools Needed:
*- dow33
*- a clean paintbrush
*- qtips
*- small phillips head jewelry screwdriver
*- clean paper plate.


Lay the solenoid and screwdriver on the paper plate-


First, remove the two screws on the small end cap, pull it off and set it on the paper plate. Sometimes you are able

to pull the spool out without going any further. As you can see in the pic, I cant remove the spool. Be careful,

inside the solenoid end cap, there is a small round spool end piece, make sure it doesnt fall out. Also, note the

air hole on the solenoid, it lines up with a tiny oring in the end cap.


Here is a pic of the spool end piece (x faces towards the pool) and the end cap oring. when you re-assemble the

noid, the black oring and the air hole must line up. If you cant grab the spool from here, go ahead and put the cap

back on the noid and screw it down.



Now, remove the two long screws at the top of the solenoid, dont pull them out, just loosen and carefully remove the

top cap. CAUTION this is the most delicate part of the solenoid dissasembly. When you remove the top cap, the

magnet piston and the 2 tiny pins will come out with it. BE VERY CAREFUL!!!



Here is the top cap, with the magnet piston and the two tiny pins, told you those are small! Most people will lose

the tiny pins, and ruin the solenoid. The pins, and the piston are magnetic, they will stick together and to metal,

so be careful!



Another picture of the piston and two tiny pins



At this stage, you will see an oring that seals the top cap with the midsection, along with two holes. In the

picture, the black holes at 1 oclock and 6 oclock are the holes where the two tiny pins go into. Next, unscrew the

screw as pictured in the bottom right corner, this removes the midpiece.



Once the midsection is removed, you should be able to grab the spool and pull it out. Be careful,you have the second

round spool piece, and another tiny air oring. At this point, inspect the spool and clean it with the paintbrush.

You may also want to run the qtip through the spool housing to clean it. Once it's clean, apply a very light layer

of dow33 and insert back into the spool housing. Put the midsection back onto the spool housing and tighten the

internal screw.



Where to qtip: stick the qtip right up the hole to clean the inside-


Additional pic of the parts lined up


Paintbrush and dow33 for the spool


Putting the end cap back on, carefully matching the oring with the air hole-


Putting the two tiny pins back into the holes. This can be a major pain in the *** so be patient.


The easiest way I've found to put the top cap on the midsection is to lay both sections flat, and slide them into

each other. Nothing is holding the magnetic piston in place so that can fall out, and the tiny pins will get sucked

out of the holes by the piston because everything is magnetic. Make sure the oring is in place, lay them flat on the

table and slide them into each other. Tighten the two long screws down.


Start praying! Hopefully if you did everything correctly, your noid should be working-
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Old 06-21-2007, 05:42 PM #68
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Species Bolt Pin Removal Guide

PROPS: thanks to Twisted_Mister for having the perfect angle pictures that I was looking for.


Step 1



Step 2



and that's it.


Reverse the process for installing the bolt back into the marker.
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Last edited by gun slayer : 06-23-2007 at 10:18 PM.
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Old 07-09-2007, 10:55 PM #69
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Daniel Conrad's HUGE thread on volumizers


This thread helped me and I was glad to find it so I thought I would share and make sure it was accessible to others.
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Old 12-14-2007, 10:05 PM #70
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Exclamation Alias/ 2k4 Intimidator Oring Chart.

Courtesy of Bob Long Manual, Paintballer187 and myself.

This is for
  • Ripper 2
  • A-Bomb
  • Naughty Dogs
  • Alias
  • RL
  • Lasoya 05
  • Dark
  • Empire



Someone add this to the stickies?
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Last edited by GetBunkerD : 12-14-2007 at 10:07 PM.
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Old 03-01-2008, 01:42 PM #71
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Complete assembly vid for gen3 intimidator by android17ak47
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Old 03-12-2008, 11:58 AM #72
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Exclamation Infamous 1.5 boards = PSP LEGAL (13 bps cap)

Infamous 1.5 boards are in fact PSP legal. The BPS cap is adjustable.

Go into your settings by pressing and holding 1 and 2, then cycle to the BPS CAP, enter the mode by pressing 2, then cycle the BPS with the 1 button until you reach 13.

To my knowledge, all versions of the Frenzy 127 isn't adjustable.
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Old 03-18-2008, 11:16 PM #73
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Lurker method of sweetspotting regs.

1: Back out both regs or Zero out both the LPR and HPR to 0psi
2: Raise HPR slightly only to set LPR for cycling
3: Raise LPR to fully cycling ~45psi or so
4: Raise HPR until velocity begins to stop rising as you increase pressure
5: Raise LPR to desired velocity
6: Lower HPR a bit, then raise if necessary... you're trying to find the best HPR setting at the LPR setting you have. This may put your velocity over 300/285
7: Lower LPR slightly to field velocity
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Last edited by drefish99 : 03-26-2008 at 10:47 PM.
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Old 04-05-2008, 01:18 PM #74
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short video of Species bolt removal.......
http://media.putfile.com/Species-bolt-removal
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Old 08-25-2008, 08:26 PM #75
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Old 11-09-2008, 08:15 PM #76
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DIY Hose Hood Trigger Guard Mod

I posted this the other day on the IOG, enjoy.

Well this is pretty self explanatory but I thought I would share with you all a little mod I did last week. I’d always been interested in picking up the “Jockstrap” from Assassin’s or Critical but never wanted to spend the $20 plus shipping. Being cheap I decided to do my own home grown “Hose Hood Mod” to prevent the hoses and eye wires from rubbing against the trigger.

I simply cut the end off of a used tube of caulking, cut out the nozzle leaving as much around the base as I could. I cut the nozzle length down to about ˝ inch then I then split the nozzle in half giving me two half circles to work with. I simply trimmed of excess material around the base until I achieved the fit that I wanted, leaving enough clearance inside the circumference of the nozzle so nothing touched the trigger. I then used some 2 part epoxy to glue the guard to the frame and viola, a no-cost hose-hood mod.

I’ve done this to both my Intimidators and it works great. No more mushy triggers!





Enjoy.
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Old 10-28-2009, 10:56 PM #77
ken k'niff
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barbs
figured i'd add this since i know i'm not willing to pay 2 bux a barb anymore even if they are ss they can still break because some people just like to hulk out at the wrong time.

these are the m3 threaded barbs timmies take with barbs for the 1/16 hose we use


comes out to about 14 bux for 25 of em you'll almost never run out

edit: link should be fixed

Last edited by ken k'niff : 10-29-2009 at 10:05 PM.
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Old 10-29-2009, 08:45 AM #78
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can you link directly to the page thet are on?? good find dude!!
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Old 10-29-2009, 10:06 PM #79
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fixed the link if it still isn't working its under Fittings / Metric / Straight Connectors / M3 Threads it'll be the first one in the list for the 1/16 id tube


either that or search eb10-m3

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Old 11-09-2009, 11:12 PM #80
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Old 02-28-2010, 04:35 PM #81
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Old 05-22-2010, 12:08 PM #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GetBunkerD View Post
Infamous 1.5 boards are in fact PSP legal. The BPS cap is adjustable.

Go into your settings by pressing and holding 1 and 2, then cycle to the BPS CAP, enter the mode by pressing 2, then cycle the BPS with the 1 button until you reach 13.

To my knowledge, all versions of the Frenzy 127 isn't adjustable.
my 2k6 infamous timmy has the stock board (pretty sure its the 1.5) but the version is 127.5... does this mean im stuck at a bps cap of 15??? no where in the board menu does it give me the option to change my Cap BPS
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Old 05-22-2010, 12:17 PM #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Atticus0928 View Post
my 2k6 infamous timmy has the stock board (pretty sure its the 1.5) but the version is 127.5... does this mean im stuck at a bps cap of 15??? no where in the board menu does it give me the option to change my Cap BPS
You would have to send the board into blast to get flashed, if you want to cap at different ROF's.
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Old 05-22-2010, 02:17 PM #84
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^^^

so i call that BLAST company to do this?
Im newbie to Bobs guns... =/
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