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Old 11-21-2003, 12:38 PM #1
jlcollins_21
 
 
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'03 Shocker Trigger

The trigger on my new shocker has a lot of side-to-side movement in it. Is this normal or is there something wrong with it? Also, I've got the magnet backed all the way out and it is still not as light as I'd like it. I think the problem is the shim that comes down over the actual trigger switch. Is there a way to fix it so that the trigger has a softer pull?
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Old 11-22-2003, 01:10 AM #2
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Old 11-22-2003, 02:11 AM #3
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I have two 03's my first is a non-vision S/N 952 it has very little side to side play in the trigger at all. It is very light and very easy to walk. My other 03 is a vision S/N 1682 and it has much more side to side play and is nowhere near as nice as my other. My guess is the trigger play all has to do with the tolerances of the grip frames. If I can't get my vision's trigger nicer by adjusting the magnet and the travel i am just going to swap frames.


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Old 11-22-2003, 09:13 AM #4
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Well, hopefully no one will have to worry anymore when NDZ releases they're triggers they've been promising.
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Old 11-22-2003, 11:40 AM #5
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if ndz is just makeing a trigger, it wouldnt help if the grip frame already had high tolerances..
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Old 11-22-2003, 04:13 PM #6
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evolve said they were making 2 ball race triggers for there shocker and wouldn't that mean that they would be able available individually too.
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Old 11-22-2003, 04:23 PM #7
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not necessarily...
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Old 11-22-2003, 11:45 PM #8
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but most likely
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Old 11-22-2003, 11:52 PM #9
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who knows, dont forget about the evolve magnesium bolt, only for the es03... but i see no reason to do the triggers like that... hope not
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Old 11-24-2003, 01:31 PM #10
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yeah that would be stupid bad business if they didnt release the triggers
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Old 11-24-2003, 03:40 PM #11
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The only way to make the trigger lighter than without the magnet is to take the microswitch apart and modify the internal parts.

-OR-

You can desolder the microswitch and flip it over. You'll need to add a wire from the top pin to the bottom to make it work but it gives it a much nicer feel. You'll also need to back the screw out that sets the switch activation point. Sooner or later I'll get around to making a DIY article with some pics and I'll post it.

As far as the side to side movement, you can install a non-tapered pivot pin in the frame w/ a set screw to lock the trigger to the pin like on the eclipse magno-blades. I haven't got around to doing this yet but I'm sure it will also have a dramatic affect on how the Shocker trigger feels.

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Old 11-28-2003, 11:23 PM #12
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Like Shadrach said, you can modify the internal parts of the microswitch. Actually, it's just one part you have to modify, and it's very simple. You can do shadrach's method and desolder-flip- and resolder, but modifying the microswitch is actually easier and better in my opinion. I did it to my gun and now I can rip on it consistantly like no other.

If you are interested in the directions for the modification, go here:

http://www.shockerowners.com/showthr...9249#post19249
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Old 11-29-2003, 01:25 AM #13
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my shocker is sn 02904 and has almost no side to side play, its a new dark blue vision
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Old 11-29-2003, 02:37 AM #14
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maybe it was just the earlier ones that had the side to side play
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Old 11-29-2003, 11:57 AM #15
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hey Joe,
What part are you modifying or removing from the microswitch. Also, how are you opening it without breaking it? I looked on SO but didn't see the complete directions.
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Old 11-30-2003, 07:37 PM #16
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There are clips on both sides of the microswitch that you have to pry up with something really thin (i used a safety pin) to take apart the microswitch. Careful when you do this because small parts may go flying around after you take it apart, and you don't want to lose them. One of the internal parts is a tiny piece of metal bent at approximately 90 degrees or so. This piece acts as a "spring" and determines how much force it takes for the microswitch to be flipped. This piece needs to be bent so that the angle is smaller, more like 70 degrees or so. If you bend it too far the microswitch won't work at all, but you can always bend it back until you get the correct angle you need. Reassembling these tiny parts is the hardest thing to do, especially if you weren't paying attention to how it all fits together (or if the parts went flying when you opened the microswitch up). These are very rough instructions, and I'm thinking about making detailed instructions with pictures if there is enough interest, otherwise I won't waste my time.

My microswitch is very light now, it's extremely hard to tell when the trigger actually hits it now.

If you want help with it, you can AIM me at JoeAE2005

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Old 11-30-2003, 10:45 PM #17
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Interest here for sure. Isnt the switch soldered onto the board?
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Old 11-30-2003, 11:22 PM #18
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The lower half of the microswitch is soldered onto the board. The upper half of the microswitch detaches from the lower half, exposing the internals for modification.
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Old 12-01-2003, 04:52 AM #19
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Thanks Joe. That's what I had imagined you were doing. I'm farmiliar with the internals of the switch but I was a little confused because I heard some people were 'removing' parts from inside. I messed with the switches on the Imps but I could never figre out how to open them sucessfully 100% of the time without breaking at least 1 of the two tabs. looks like im gonna try again.
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Old 12-01-2003, 07:48 PM #20
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if you have an old mouse laying around, you may want to break it apart and practice with one of the 2 micro switches, ive tried doing it before, but always ended up popping the parts out, and its a total pain in the butt to get back together.
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Old 12-01-2003, 10:30 PM #21
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to remove side to side slop, you can do the same thing I've seen folks do with their timmy triggers. take some alum tape, which is thin and resilient, and apply one layer to the side of the trigger.

if it's still too much, take another piece and put it on the other side of the trigger.

ghetto...but it works. it's cheap. and it's not even visible, if you use nice sized pieces of tape.
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