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Old 02-22-2007, 08:16 PM #1
m_dogg2021
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Every thing you ever need to know about a cocker!

Welcome to the all you need to know about a cocker. I have been working on this for just a lil bit and its still quite new, if you see anything wrong or thing I need to add something then please just Pm me or post in this very thread. I will first show you all the table of contents so you know what page to look at:

Post #1 info and how to fix your cocker

Post #2 Mods for your cocker

Post #3 more mods for your cocker

Post #4 Info on what your cockers worth and how rare it is

Post #5 Room for more stuff

Post #6 Room for more stuff

Post #7 Room for more stuff

I have been bruising these forums for quite some time now and I think it time to make one of my help threads like I did in the halo forum.
I will start this off with a basic know how of a autococker (for those of you who are new to them)
I hope this Graphic will help you in your under standing of how the cocker really works:

It’s very simple really. There are five main parts to an autococker, the ram, the bolt, the hammer & cocking rod, the valve and the 3way/solenoid. All of those parts play a very important rule in making your cocker work here’s how it works and in the order it happens. The solenoid/3way does two functions; the first will cock the hammer back so it’s ready to strike the pin to the valve. The second will slam the bolt forward so and thus making the gun ready to fire. You pull the trigger and the hammer will fly forward unleashing a pop on air in witch will propel the paintball forward. The cycle continues. Now that you know how your autococker works you can fix it and here’s how:

Before you read anything look at this thread it will give you all of the info you need + some help full tips on how to make you gun run the best it can: http://www.moodypaintball.com/pages/tech/timing.htm

And why not heres a vid for you since you have to have one:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k4TV9o6YdnM

Still having issues?? look here\/\/\/ if non of that fix's your cocker then post and ill be happy to try and help you.


-------- My gun won’t fire -------
Fix:
- Your reg is off; just do one turn on the reg then stop
- You didn’t screw the tank if all the way (I don’t think I need to tell you how to do that)
- Your LPR is off (turn it up just a lil bit at a time so you don’t blow up you noid)
- You have something blocking the airflow (paint chip or something look in the reg and gun)
- You don’t have a cocking rod (the cocking rod in the lil thing in the back that screws in the hammer)
- Your board is fried (if it doesn’t turn on then it fried)



-------- My ram won’t move -------
- You bent the ramrod
- Your solenoid is dead (with out air the noid should click if it doesn’t then its fried)
- You have a plug in the LPR (take your LPR and clean it)
- Your LPR is off (turn it on very slowly so you don’t blow up your noid)
- Your LPR needs lube bad. (Take your LPR apart and clean/lube it)




--------My gun leaks in the front-------
- You have a hole in your LP lines (take some soppy water and rub it on the LP lines but NOT the noid)
- One of more of your barbs are cracked (same soppy water method as before)
- Your solenoids seal is cracked (With race frames this wont happen)
- You have stripped the threads to a barb (If its tight then its fine)
- Your LPR is to low (for only some rams)



-------- My gun will only half cock -------
- Your back block needs unscrewed a lil (For the best performance unscrew or screw the block in till you can just see light in between the block and the body)
- You have to strong of a spring for the hammer (cut it down one lil piece at a time or buy a weaker spring)
- Your reg is to low (turn it up)
- Your LPR is to low (turn it up but slowly)
- You’re your board is set wrong (Refer to your manual for settings)



---------- My gun chops like a beast out of hell --------
- Your reg is up to hi (turn it down)
- Your spring for the hammer it to strong (cut it down or buy a weaker one)
- Your detents suck (or detent buy a new one)
- Your eyes are dirty (Clean ir replace it if need be)
- Your board settings are wrong (refer to the manual again)



------------My gun won’t shoot very fast----------
- Your board settings are wrong (look at the manual)
- Your eye is dead (so the gun will kick into something’s wrong mode and will only shoot 9BPS)
- Your noid is dying (rare-ish but see how the noid clicks with out air)

Well that’s all I have in me I know I missed some stuff but Pm me or post with anything you would like to add. Now off to mods! \/\/\/\/\/\/\/
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Old 02-22-2007, 08:16 PM #2
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First for those of you who don't know what cocker mods are called.
There are only really five types of mods to the body, but the combo of the mods is called a total differenct thing.



One -halfie/turtle, turtling is what you do when you cut the upper back part off of the gun off.

For you to do this you need to mod: Hammer, Pump Arm, Body, Bolt and Back Block.

You can as well do this to a spyder accept you only need the body and I think I will get into that later.



Two - Midgetizing, when midgetizing the gun there will a piece cut off of the lower back of the gun,

The body will be re taped. For you to do this you need to mod: Body, Pump Arm, Back Block and Bolt




Three - Mining, This is when the front of the gun is cut off and re taped.

For you to do this you need to mod: Body, Pump Arm and Actuating rod

Four - slot blocking, This is just like turtling only you cut a slot in the gun.

Fifth - Mid blocking, this is a mix of slot blocking and turtling

-----------Cocker lingo 101-------------
Halfblocked/halfy - you do both turtling and midgetizing
Micro cocker - you do all turtling, mining and midgetizing. This makes only hell of a speed ball gun and make it very light.
Orry - short for orracle (type of cocker)
Karni - short for kanivor (another type of cocker)


Now since you know what the mod is called I can tell you how to do the mod.


Why not start this off with a halfblocked cocker here’s more one works!


Here’s how to do it:

link made by JoshGrrrr & post made by M_dogg2021
-Do-it-Yourself Halfblocking Guide

---------- Parts your need --------
- Hacksaw (or a mill if you happen to have one sitting around
- Files (to make it nice and pretty)
- Micrometers (or a tape measure but micros are more accurate)
- Sharpie (depending on color you my need a metallic one)
- A good eye (or 2 if you have a friend)
- A dremel with a polishing bit and cutter
- A #10 – 32 TPI Die
- A drill with bit set.


Well this is a tricky one here cuz if you mess up just a lil bit you gun is ruined (I’ve been there till I got a mill ) but if your good and know your way around a hacksaw then this is the mod for you. You will start off by buying a BKO bolt (you could make your own but why) cut you back block in half so it looks like so:

Now mark the body where you want to cut, you know that lil hole for the hammer well cut about ” for the center on that hole(leaving a lil meat left so you can file it smooth)
Now you need to make a groove about 1” long in the top of the bottom tube so it will look like so

Cut the pump arm so it is about ” past where you cut the body, thread the end of it with that #10 die. Drill a hole in the back block so there can be a pin for the bolt. Now take your hammer and cut it like so:


Reassemble and your done!




----------------------- MINI COCKER! -------------------

link made by JoshGrrrr & post made by M_dogg2021
Do-it-Yourself Mini Conversion Guide


This is a very simple mod.

----Parts your need---
- Hacksaw
- File set
- #10 32 die
- 9/16" 24 tap (e-bay for that one)

Now this is for a 2k+ mining here for 99- I would ask some one on PBN for the tap size because I don't know. All you do on this one is cut 1 1/4" off the front of the gun then re tap with the 9/16" 24 tap. Cut 1 1/4" off of the pump arm and re tap with the #10 32 die. Cut 1 1/4" off the actuating rod and re tap with the #10 32 tap (note some guns use different size actuating rods so your best bet is to buy a mini actuating rod)

DONE! Put it all back together and your good.


----------------------- MIDGETIZING YOUR COCKER! -------------------

Post made by M_dogg2021


Just as easy as mining only on the back not the front.



---Parts your need---

- Hacksaw-
- File set-
- #10 32 die-
- 3/4" 16 Tap (very very very hard to find but e-bay. or if your lucky you can just skip this if your gun has threads to the back frame screw)
- Wire cutters


Cut till flush with your frame (about 1") re tap but don't go to far or you will tap into the
hammers path and then your screwed. Cut about 1" off of your pump arm and re tap with the #10 32 die and cut about 1" off of you bolt to. Take your main spring and cut it slowy till you get the correct volcity and cut 1" off of your cocking rod and retap for #10-32.
Bam!

----------------------- EGO COCKER! -------------------

This is most likely the most expensive cocker mod you will come across, but that's only because of the parts needed. Some say this mod makes your cocker not a cocker any more but What the hell ill put it in here cuz it is a mod and I can do it on a cocker.


---Parts your need---
- EGO frame ($40 for 05)
- EGO trigger ($5-10)

- EGO board (I found a 06 for $20 but GL on that)
- Custom hammer (I used a BKO hammer and moded it)
- E1 noid and cover (just strait luck I found it for $20)
- EGO eyes ($15 -20)
- Drill, hacksaw and files

Total: about $200

I know I payed way less but it’s all in how you find them

Now that you have all of the parts you just need to mod the frame to fit the cocker.
Drill 2 holes in the frame one in the front and one in the back so that the ego frame will fit the cocker so the way I did mine is I drilled the back hole first so you have more room. Just rough fit the frame and mark where the holes need to go and then drill and counter sink the screws. Mark the hole for the front screw and drill it out DO NOT counter sink this one you don't have enough meat to drill in. Now that the frame fits great cut about 1" off the back for a nice clean look. Now just put in the board and hook up the eyes and noid. When putting the noid in the noid cover switch the LP lines going to the ram so when the noid clicks on the bolt will go forward and not back like a normal cocker would. Now as for the tricky part I moded a BKO hammer just because it’s an easy item to work with. Cut one side of the hammer till its just right and hits the valve pin at the right time. This will take some time to get right so please take your time with this its better to do 18 million cuts then cutting to much and screwing it up.

DONE!!!!! There is only one thing you have to remember with this you adjust the velocity by turning up or down the LPR. And PLEASE e-mail me with your custom stuff so I can know how many people read and do this mod and hell ill even post your gun with your name on it right here if you want.
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Old 02-22-2007, 08:16 PM #3
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----------------------------Slot Blocking-----------------------

Post made by M_dogg2021

---------- Parts your need --------
- Files (to make it nice and pretty)
- Hacksaw
- Calipers (or a tape measure but calipers are more accurate)
- Sharpie (depending on color you my need a metallic one)
- A good eye (or 2 if you have a friend)
- A dremel with a polishing bit and cutter
- A #10 – 32 TPI Die
- A drill with bit set.

Ok this mod was made because some one didn’t want to cut up there awesome looking gun (such as a freeflow or a reflex) but they wanted it to work just like a half cocker, thus slot blocking was made.

This mod takes a lot of skill to do with just hand tools but if your good it can be done. All you do with this mod is much like you do when you halfblock only you cut a slot not half the body. To do this mod you need to first take apart you gun (and I mean the whole gun) put all of the parts in a bug parts tub so you don’t lose anything. Mark the body at 2 ” (2.750) from the back of the gun. Use a dremel with a cutting/milling bit and start at the mark that you just made. Dremel out 1” back from the mark (if your lucky you can have a gun that is pre slotted like many freeflow’s and GX cockers) Look at the bottom of your gun, there should be a groove in the lower tube for the hammer use it as a guide for the top tube. Using your dremel with that cutting bit cut a groove in the top tube. Now that all of the body is done you need to make a sled, take your stock back block and cut it so it looks like so Cut the pump arm so its about ” from where the sled sits forward. DONE! You have just made a slot blocked cocker.




----------------------------ion feedneck mod -----------------------

Mod & Post made by M_dogg2021

---------- Parts your need --------
- Drill
- #10 – 32 tap
- Vise (or locking pliers)
- One ion/angel/bko/imp mid-rise feedneck.
- Sharpie marker (maybe metallic if you gun is black)


I found this out when the stock compretion fitting for the feedneck came out so instead of putting it back in a made a mod out of it.

Step one I know this is hard to do but you need to get the stock feed neck off its just pressed in there so you could clamp it in a vise or use some locking pliers to get it out.(I don’t care how you get it out just do) Now drill a hole in the back on the body right below the feednecks rim. Tap the hole for a #10 – 32 screw. Take your ion feedneck and slip it in your gun, you will see that the feedneck is sticking in the breach, this is good this means that you have some room to work with. Mark the feedneck as close as you can where it sticks in the breach. Pull the neck out and cut at that point. Slip the neck back in the gun to see how good of a job you have done. Use a setscrew for the hole in the body and tighten it down till the feedneck is tight against the body. DONE!




----------------------------Trigger frame mod-----------------------

Post made by M_dogg2021

---------- Parts your need --------
- Hacksaw
- Files
- Drill & ” bit
- Dremel with disk cutter
- A sharpie marker
- Calipers or a tape measure

This mod will work for both Mqed cockers and stock but when using the stock cocker with the noid in the back you can only use 2 frame witch I will explain later in this mod.

OK this is an interesting mod for those of you to do but oh is it worth it.
There are a lot of frames out there for a cocker you aren’t only confined to an ego or UL frame you can put any frame your mind can think of with this simple method. All most all cockers frame holes are 4”. The only cocker that does not fallow that is the osiris witch
Is 4 ”. That being said this mod should be a walk in the park. You will start by marking where the front hole for the frame is on the body (put the mark on the side of the body) now you will take the frame that you have picked and dry fit it to the body marking on the frame where the mark on the body is. Drill a ” hole in the center of the frame where the mark is. Now that the first hole is drilled mark 4” from the center of that 1st hole. Drill a ” hole in the back. Install the frame insuring that the frame fits just right. Now as for the hard part this will slim down your picks to only 2 frames one of witch is the ego and the 2nd is a trix frame. Both frames will need the front top hole for the grips cut out and the back noid installed. As for lining up the sear well I don’t have the frame I used so your on your own with that but I can tell you this much keep lining it up with the stock frame till you get it just right. Done.




----------------------------Osiris cocker mod-----------------------

Mod & Post made by M_dogg2021

---------- Parts your need --------
- Hacksaw
- Files
- Spring from home depot
- ” ID aluminum pipe
- ” OD steel rod
- ” OD aluminum rod
- Drill and bit set
- #10 – 32 tap
- #10 – 32 barb
- And a 3-way noid of some sort.
- LPR for a cocker
- 1/8” NPT 90*


Ok in this mod you will be making a ram from scratch and putting it in the back of your gun. Take the ” ID pipe and cut 3” off of it. Now take the ” OD aluminum rod and cut about 2” off, stick it in the drill (using the drill as a lath) mill a lil groove in with the file so you can put a oring there. Cut it down so that plug is about ” thick then plug one of the 2 end of the aluminum pipe. Now cut 2 ” off of the steel rod and again cut a groove in it so that a oring sits in there with ease (this part will be moving so cut the groove deeper) On the end with the plug mark a spot where the plug stop drill a hole for a #10 – 32 barb. Now take that spring that you bought from home depot and put it in the non plugged end. Measure where the hole is on the ram (from the non plugged end to the hole) and then measure about 1/8” from the set screw on the under side of the body, mark the body where the barb will go and drill a ” hole. Now screw the barb in and run the hose to the frame. Now you will see a gauge port on the bottom of the front block where a gauge will go. Put that 1/8” NPT 90* there and put the LPR in the 90*. Run the LP line from the LPR inside of the frame via the slot for the front noids wires. Plug the new air noid into the plug for the old noid and the rip with your new osiris moded cocker.
Heres what is will wokr like in this animation:


Well that’s all the mods I know of at the moment but i'm sure i will find somting else to add into this.
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Old 02-22-2007, 08:17 PM #4
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Old 02-22-2007, 08:17 PM #5
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Old 02-22-2007, 08:17 PM #6
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Old 02-22-2007, 08:17 PM #7
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just so i'm sure I have room.
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Old 02-22-2007, 10:10 PM #8
D4Disorder
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do you have to re tap the body for midgeting?
and arent you supposed to cut the spring?
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Old 02-22-2007, 10:26 PM #9
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D4Disorder - On most WGP guns but I have seen some where you dont have to, aka ANS X5 WGP VF 04 and some more If its thread to the back frame screw hole your fine. as for the spring yes I forgot to add that part thank you for telling me
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Old 02-22-2007, 10:27 PM #10
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ok,oh an nice job on this thread
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Old 02-22-2007, 10:39 PM #11
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oh this is just the start ill have much much more mods like valve, feedneck, frames, other guts and slot blocking
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Old 02-22-2007, 10:42 PM #12
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might as well throw it out there............................................. ..............................

STICKY.




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Old 02-23-2007, 01:48 AM #13
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Stickied.

I added a little info. The troubleshooting portion of your guide needs a good bit of work. Some of the answers are extremely generic. "you have a hole in your lines"??? You put very obvious, unnecessary stuff like that then left out some of the more common reasons for some of the problems.

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Old 02-24-2007, 11:17 PM #14
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JoshGrrrr - k thank you ill wokr on this whole post come tuesday when I get my day off (I work 7 am to 6 Pm) but ill add more pics, work on the help post and put some more mods up there.

Thanks
Matt
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Old 02-26-2007, 09:03 PM #15
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what abou mid-blocking? is it different than halfblocking?
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Old 02-26-2007, 09:40 PM #16
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If you look in my gallery on my site in my sig you can see a midblocked superbolt, and a halfblocked superbolt.
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Old 03-18-2007, 09:53 AM #17
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A little late, but you may want to add in that Slot Blocking is more commonly known as MidBlocking..

And maybe throw this link in with the Ego Framing:
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.p...ight=Ego+Frame
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Old 03-22-2007, 10:14 PM #18
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My cocker seems to slowly get faster as i shoot it. it starts out slow and works up...why would it do this?
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Old 03-27-2007, 12:31 AM #19
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Any pics of the "Osiris Ram Mod"?
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Old 04-12-2007, 03:14 AM #20
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ion feedneck mod. is that even reliable? i mean as a permnant fixture.
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Old 04-28-2007, 12:47 PM #21
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Any pics of the "Osiris Ram Mod"?
Yea I am wondering too exactly what this looks like :p.
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