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Old 02-22-2007, 04:20 PM #1
JoshGrrrr
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Do-it-Yourself Halfblocking Guide

I highly recommend you only allow an experienced machinist work on your paintball marker. This procedure is intended to get your marker ready to accept the Do-it-Yourself Half-block kits sold by White Wolf Airsmithing, though I‘m told that other half block parts will work with this guide as well. In this guide I am using a Bridgeport mill to do the machining. You may find other tools that you can use to do this conversion. Regardless of the tools you use, the dimensions are the most important part of this conversion. All dimensions are +/- .005”.

First, I recommend you rough out the upper portion of your marker with a bandsaw. Allow yourself at least ” for finishing on both cuts.


Place the body on a set of parallels in the vice. I recommend lining the vice jaws with paper to prevent scratching the body. Be careful not to over tighten the vice and damage the body. Cut the marker to the dimension shown on the print. WD40 is a great cutting fluid for aluminum. Use it liberally. It will give you a great finish and will prevent galling. Don’t try to take all of the remaining material off at once. Always sneak up on the dimensions by taking small cuts. You can’t put metal back on once it is gone. It is usually easier to get the thickness of the lower tube right first, then stay at that height and go over and cut off the back of the remaining portion of the upper tube. On most guns with a thru-body window the bottom of the window is already at the proper dimension. All you have to do is cut off the very back portion even with the bottom of the window. The GX5 done in this guide was done this way.



Your final measurements should be 3.200” from the front of the breech to the back of the upper tube and .900” from the bottom of the body to the top of the bottom tube. Keep these dimensions +/- .005”. If you go to far under the .900” dimension you will expose the IVG threads.



Using a scale, mark off the slot for the bolt pin to enter into the lower tube. You want the first mark to be .250” back from the end of the upper tube, then the next mark to be 1.250” farther back from the first mark. Make sure it is centered on the body. These dimensions can be found on the print as well. These aren’t too critical, just don’t stray too far from the dimensions given.


Find the center of the marker then plunge a ” end mill into the center of the lower tube and cut to your scribed marks. Keep the end mill and the slot wet with WD40. If you left your valve in be careful not to go to far into the lower tube. If you do, you may hit your valve stem when cutting to the .250” mark. You want the total slot length to be 1.250”. Don’t let the end mill sit still if possible. It will chatter and leave an ugly finish on the slot.


De-burr all places where you removed material using files or sandpaper. Make sure to get any burrs from the inside of the upper tube. If you don’t, you could scratch up the first bolt you put in. When you are done de-burring, clean the gun thoroughly. I usually wash it in hot water with dish soap then blow it out with an air hose.


Install the halfblock components and reassemble the marker as usual. Time it as you would any cocker.


If you choose to mill your own hammer, use a 1/4" end mill and just make a slot in the top .150 deep and .725 long starting at the front of the hammer. I recommend using carbide for this. Some hammers are hardened. I haven’t seen one yet that carbide couldn’t cut. I have seen a few that were very hard on HSS tooling.

Original JCM Guide Print...

Last edited by JoshGrrrr : 07-16-2007 at 11:20 PM.
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Old 02-22-2007, 04:33 PM #2
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Nice work.
Do you feel the do it your self you did was worth it over haveing someone else do it?
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Old 02-22-2007, 04:42 PM #3
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Originally Posted by gwac View Post
Nice work.
Do you feel the do it your self you did was worth it over haveing someone else do it?
i dont think he could tell you how it feels to do it yourself over someone else doing it, of the fact he owns a machine shop.

nice guide, wish i had a cocker to do a half-blocking on.
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Old 02-22-2007, 07:16 PM #4
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This is the same one on the Halfcocker website, right? I actually just sent my body to a friend to do the machining.
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Old 02-22-2007, 07:21 PM #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrZucchiniHead View Post
i dont think he could tell you how it feels to do it yourself over someone else doing it, of the fact he owns a machine shop.

nice guide, wish i had a cocker to do a half-blocking on.
QFT. Besides that, he is the "someone."

Josh- Glad to see you posted this here. Hope it helps with the million half-blocking threads. You'd think people would take the time to google half cocker, and realize theres a hole site!
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Old 02-22-2007, 07:40 PM #6
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Originally Posted by MrZucchiniHead View Post

nice guide, wish i had a cocker to do a half-blocking on.
i wish i had the tools to halfblock my cocker
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Old 02-22-2007, 08:10 PM #7
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i thought you posted this awhile ago!
hopefully this will cut down on alot of the "how do i halfblock my spyder" threads
they bother me so much more than the how do i halfblock my cocker threads

heres the last cocker i had done to your specs
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Old 02-22-2007, 09:54 PM #8
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Originally Posted by D4Disorder View Post
i wish i had the tools to halfblock my cocker
You don't necessarily need a mill to do it. I used this guide to help halfblock my cocker and I used a band saw. Now don't go out and buy a band saw and do it yourself now unless you truly know what your doing.
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Old 02-27-2007, 09:14 PM #9
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then how do you halfblock a spyder? im trying to learn to be a gun tech and in my spare time ive been messing with a spyder esprit, just having fun, reshaping the body...can you make a thread like this for the spyder?
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Old 02-27-2007, 09:50 PM #10
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you wouldnt be halfblocking a spyder, its halfbacking, and its nowhere near as technical as a cocker halfblock conversion. you cut the body on a spyder tp the o rings when cocked back, or less if you want
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Old 02-28-2007, 09:56 AM #11
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very nice
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Old 03-11-2007, 05:24 PM #12
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Old 03-11-2007, 06:46 PM #13
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Quote:
i wish i had the tools to halfblock my cocker
The tools are pretty easy to gain access to. It's not uncommon for individuals or businesses to own them and most colleges and high schools have them. It's usually just a matter of talking to the right person and getting them interested in working on the project with you.
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Old 03-13-2007, 08:58 PM #14
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Nice man! I gone to do that. I'm a machinist so i have get to use all the mill and stuff then cnc engrave something on it. Again Nice man
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Old 03-22-2007, 04:07 PM #15
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could cocker interal fit in a spyder becuase im making a spocker(spyder cocker) and if the interals will fit it would make things alot easier. then i can have a halfblock spocker lol
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Old 02-05-2008, 02:45 AM #16
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I know this thread is super old, but why is this not a sticky in the cocker section? It might help stop the 39 halfblock questions we get daily.
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Old 02-05-2008, 07:10 PM #17
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what recocks the hammer with the cocking rod removed. im new to the whole halfblock idea. im trying to understand it.
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Old 02-05-2008, 07:32 PM #18
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the bolt pin goes through a slot milled in the body and rests in a groove cut in the hammer
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Old 02-06-2008, 06:10 AM #19
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ok. thanks. that makes sense.
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Old 05-30-2008, 02:07 AM #20
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can i halfblock my superstock
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Old 05-30-2008, 02:28 AM #21
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I already answered that in your other thread. You can halfblock any autococker that can be cut to the above dimensions.
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