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Old 01-15-2007, 10:02 PM #1
ChiefAutoParts16
 
 
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2004 Viking tear down

I do know that yakitori has already made one of these tutorials on how to take apart your viking, but i wanted to make version 2.0. During my tutorial I did not take apart the trigger. If you are looking for a good walk through for that process take a look at the Trigger How To made by yakitori.

Here are the tools that i used throughout the process, and the viking itself itself


Next I simply removed the sidewinder regulator and the aka lightening bolt.


Moving to the back of the marker, I proceeded to the right side where I removed the right side cartridge or the ram.


With the three prong tool and a wrench I took apart the cartridge.


Here is a view of the cartridge taken apart.
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Old 01-15-2007, 10:04 PM #2
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moving to the front of the viking I proceeded to take out the tornado valve stem and spring.



Now I left the tornado valve itself in the marker for one main reason. I do not have any blue loctite. I recommend you do not take out the valve unless you have some more loctite to keep it in place.

Moving onto the SCM III take your 5/32 Hex key and take off the front cap. Note: Do not take apart your SCM if you do not have a full tool kit. The reason being, when you air up your marker again there is the possibility that you may have left the pressure to high, and you will blow your noid.


Unscrew the "can" part and you should end up with the parts shown minus the brass internal and the part that goes into the body itself.


My least favorite part comes right here. Now you should use the proper scm removal tool, but I have found that a good pair of needle nose pliers works well, be patient here.



Now that the core is out, use your three prong tool and remove the part that is inside the marker body


When taking that part out I like to keep my finger inside and keep a good amount of pressure on the orings to make sure that they don't get clipped.


Here is what you should have...
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Old 01-15-2007, 10:05 PM #3
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The last steps that I will show you involve the solenoid area.

Basic setup for most of us Viking owners.


If you take off your noid you should have a good amount oil underneath and on it.


Now reassemble and your viking should run as good as ever. Be sure to put a drop of aka lube in the asa before you gas up.

Leave me some feedback, i am sure there are some grammatical errors that need to be fixed!
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Old 01-16-2007, 05:21 AM #4
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want to sell the viking back to me???
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Old 01-16-2007, 06:49 AM #5
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great great pictoral and write up cheif. I just havent had time to getting around to doing a complete tear down as my guns really never need it. I keep waiting for something to leak or go wrong so I can take it apart, but that hasnt happened.

I know its a lot of work to take pics and then sort them out into steps. Its time consuming. You made it look easy.
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Old 01-16-2007, 12:02 PM #6
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want to sell the viking back to me???
Haha, I don't think I will ever sell this gun. It is just so nice.



Thanks yakitori it is nice to get some positive feedback from the guy who has produced so many great tutorials.
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Old 01-16-2007, 12:22 PM #7
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Awesome job, I can see this extremely helpful, care to make a how to adjust LPR next? the How to thread dosent seem like its working
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Old 01-18-2007, 03:09 PM #8
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to adjust your LPR, remove the back left cap off the gun, insert gauge, use allen key to adjust LPR to proper pressure. Shoot the gun while making adjustments so that the pressure stabilizes right. Then degas....regas the gun a couple times to make sure the pressure stays where it was set.

LPR tends to like to be adjust up instead of down to the desired setting. IE from 60 up to 72psi or whatever. Not 80-down to 72. If its high, adjust down past the desired setting, and then back up.
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Old 01-18-2007, 03:17 PM #9
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Great thread. One thing I would add is to use plenty o aka lube/dbn lube when you take anything out and put it back in.
Also, when you put the LPR back into the gun, push your finger through the sidewinder hole, and make sure that the two o-rings don't get pinched.
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Old 01-30-2007, 10:21 PM #10
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I just picked up an 03 Vike off of Ebay. I used this tutorial to do a complete tear down and cleaning. Man, was there ALOT of crud inside the ram cartridge.

Thanks for the help!
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Old 01-30-2007, 10:37 PM #11
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Thanks a bunch for this great walkthrough. Awesome job!
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Old 01-31-2007, 07:22 AM #12
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Very nice write up! Very user friendly! One tip that I might add is that you can make a custom tool to help in the removal of pinvalves like those in the SCM. Take a long, flat head screw driver and use a dremel tool to cut away at the middle. This will leave a groove that your pinvalve can sit in while you get a good amount of torque on the sides. It's something I saw some intimidator owners use on older style LPR's. Though, needlenose pliers are always a great option too!
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Old 01-31-2007, 07:32 AM #13
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Originally Posted by lopez17 View Post
Very nice write up! Very user friendly! One tip that I might add is that you can make a custom tool to help in the removal of pinvalves like those in the SCM. Take a long, flat head screw driver and use a dremel tool to cut away at the middle. This will leave a groove that your pinvalve can sit in while you get a good amount of torque on the sides. It's something I saw some intimidator owners use on older style LPR's. Though, needlenose pliers are always a great option too!
That is a great idea for the scm removal tool. I might just make one of those.

Glad this walkthrough could help the rest of you guys!
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Old 01-31-2007, 09:42 AM #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdominique70 View Post
I just picked up an 03 Vike off of Ebay. I used this tutorial to do a complete tear down and cleaning. Man, was there ALOT of crud inside the ram cartridge.

Thanks for the help!

been there done that. FSDO...inconsistent..etc. Cleaned it, rebuilt it, lubed it.....viola.....perfection. no FSDO, consistent.

I turned my LPR back up a bit to about 75psi or so for a few cases until it breaks in. Then I re-tune it afterwards.
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Old 01-31-2007, 10:04 AM #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yakitori View Post
been there done that. FSDO...inconsistent..etc. Cleaned it, rebuilt it, lubed it.....viola.....perfection. no FSDO, consistent.

I turned my LPR back up a bit to about 75psi or so for a few cases until it breaks in. Then I re-tune it afterwards.
Yea, it was pretty bad before the cleaning. It took alot of force to move the bolt back and forth. Now it's nice and smooth. I set the LPR at 72psi and have yet to chrono it. I took the winder apart and the top spring had alot of crud on it also. I cleaned it up as much as I could. It seems to be corroded. I might need a new spring...I wonder where I could find a single Belleville spring?
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Old 01-31-2007, 03:52 PM #16
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Any of you guys have intrest for me to make an excalibur teardown thread?
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Old 01-31-2007, 05:12 PM #17
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Sure, the more info we have on these markers the better.
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Old 03-05-2007, 03:47 PM #18
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I would if I had an excal. I sold mine.
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