First: You need either a shocker solenoid( requires disordering the upper board from PARKER solenoid, or pulling the board from the HUMPHREY SOLENOID). After the board is removed you must solder wires to the leads on the solenoid (do not solder them going down, but run them down the length of the solenoid it self then find correct nylon connector, OR if you wish you can use a ego solenoid. Then you will need an ego frame, trigger, electronics for ego frame, shocker body old frame, measuring device, sharpie, and either a mill or dremel with assorted end mills.
After you have the wires on the shocker solenoid, I took some epoxy and put it on the wires and leads so they do not move.
If you are using an ego solenoid, go to step four.
Second: Mount the solenoid to the manifold so it is on the body. You must measure the length of the already existing space for the solenoid. Then measure the length of you solenoid and find out the difference. This is were the sharpie comes in. Take the marker, and with the measurements you took, mark off were the main cutting needs to be done. REMEMBER: measure twice, cut once!
Third: Place the frame in a devise to hold it steady (I used a wood cutting bench). Now with your cutting device, slowly star to remove metal from within the frame. Remember not to get to close to he sides were the grips are held. If you need to make changes to the measurements, then do it slowly. After every few minuets, take the solenoid and line it up to make sure you do not have too much room. *NOTE* you will need mill in to the back part of the trigger space to allow enough room for the solenoid, but not to pass through the back.
Fourth: After you have the solenoid in its space within the frame, take your stock frame and line it up next to your ego frame using the solenoid space as a set benchmark. Measure the space from the CENTER of the hole to the very tip of space used for the solenoid. Do this for both the front and back holes that will be used to hold the frame to the body. AGAIN: measure twice, cut once. Then mark off with the sharpie. I suggest if you are not using a true mill that you use a smaller drill bit, and move your way up. Less of a chance of screwing it up.
Fifth: After you have the frame mounted to the body, you can decide to either keep the back portion of the frame on, or cut it off. If you have a ST snatch grip from a ST frame/shocker, and you want to use it then you will have to measure were you want it to sit within the frame. You must cut some of the frame of in the back so that the frame will allow the snatch to get to the screw. After you have that, you will have to mill the inside of the snatch grip to allow it to reach to the back screw that holed the frame to the body. Once you have the snatch grip milled on the inside, you must mill the part that will sit within the frame down so it is level.
Sixth: You can either cut the front of the frame to line up to your VA, or can cut it at the front of the trigger guard.
Seventh: Trigger milling is required. You have to cut the very part of the trigger to “about” the first screw that is used as a magnet to pull the trigger to the magnet within the frame. After that is done, you need to carefully mill the back part of the trigger around the screw that holds it in( stock or any trigger that has a screw to hold the pin down) as well as the shaft that is used to hold the main trigger to the swivel point.
Eighth: If using a shocker solenoid, you will have to mill a little end grove in the end cap of the solenoid. This is so you do not have to take any more than you have to from the trigger.
Ninth: Clean off all parts that came in contact with parts that were milled. Make sure you do a good job, you don’t want little burs or other **** in the gun.
Tenth: Get out and ball it up!
Tools I used to do it.
As you can see I did a little more in depth milling for a unique look, you can do any thing you want to. this is just the basics
Please only post in regards or question for shegoing.
Official Steps for Shego
