Huge update on 1-15-2004
If any of the following information is wrong the pm me please.
Sentinel TS Measurements, Stats, and Info
Length (body only): 7.0 inches
Length (entire marker minus barrel): 9.5 inches
Length (entire marker and barrel): 18.5 inches
Weight*: 2lbs 6 oz.
Width:15/16th of an inch
Stock Barrel Length: 12"
Barrel Bore Size: .690/.691
Barrel Threads: Autococker
Feedtube Threads: Angel
Ball Detent Threads: Autococker
Trigger Frame Style: 45 grip
Bottomline Holes: Standard Inline Holes with Threading Integral to the gripframe
*With the drop forward
**From the bottom of the drop forward to the top of the vert feed.
Having Blowback and Chopping Problems?
What's with the faulty valve pin?
It's a little bit too short and has some problems with blow-back up the feed tube when using a high pressure air source (800psi tank or co2).
Should and how would I get mine switched?
First check for blowback. Place a piece of toilet paper over the feed tube and see if it gets blown up, if it does then you should get it. To switch it you just unscrew the velocity adjuster housing and replace the old one with the new one.
What are the problems associated with a bad one?
Blow back up the feed tube, which causes chopping.
Which serial numbers have the bad pins?
Not sure on this, but your gun doesn't have the new one.
Go to the post that is titled "Sentinel Owners with chopping issues
" and follow the direction. I would email Crash_stp or talk to him on AIM.
Originally posted by Draknes
Other Sentinel TS Info
Optimal Operating Presure for Old Valve Pins:500-550psi
This varies from marker to marker. The TS will operate at other presures and it will work without a secondary regulator or CO2 but to get the best efficency, and consistency from your TS it should be run at around 550psi. Recomended by Crash_STP
Optimal Operating Presure for Newer Valve Pins: 800 psi
The newer valve pins were made somewhere around Spring/Summer 2003 and featured a shorter to help eliviate the blowback problems some people were having with the longer valve pins. The new pins were made and designed to run around 800psi, and they will not perform as good at lower presures like the older style pin would do.
Optimal Operating Presure for Low Presure Valve Pins: 350 psi
The Low Presure Valve Pin is a new valve pin made by Action Markers in responce of owners wanting to run their Sentinels at lower presure. Action Markers recomends an operating presure of approximately 350 psi.
*The above presures will vary with every marker setup*
Trigger Pull Length: 6-7 mm.
It varies a little bit. It can easily be modified down to 4-5mm. When you first get your TS the trigger pull might seem a tad "Stiff" but it just needs to be broken-in and it should lighten up and smooth out after that. To reduce the length of the trigger pull you need to remove the "overtravel" on the front of the pull. This can be done by having the trigger tapped for a set screw above the safety or trigger spring area. Or you can improvise with other materials (electrical tape, jb weld, etc.). Basicly you are making it so that the top of the trigger hits the body earlier so the trigger will not go as far forward as normal. Just don't adjust the trigger back to far or you can't fire the marker. You can also replace the trigger (not the sear) spring with a cut and possibly stretched pin spring to lighten the pull just a little bit. Play around with different springs to find what you like the best. Also I believe Action Markers can custom Tap your trigger for set screws if you do not feel capable of doing it yourself, or any semi-knowledgeable pro-shop should be able to do the same.
Electronic Trigger Frame: None right now
Good info on the right here
. E-force pirahna frames will work w/ some milling and shims on the TS but this should only be done by an expeirenced person. AM has made a prototype. The best frames to use is Centerflag hyperframes made for an Inferno they are also the easiest to adapt. Now a kit is made to Convert the Sentinel to the Diadem basicly.
Note on Ball Detents:
Lately (Dec. 2003 - Jan. 2004) I have heard a few stories of the Ball coming out of the Ball Detents on Sentinel and Diadem, and I have expeirenced this myself. I am not sure whether this is a problem with the detents or maybe a bad batch or probably just bad luck. On my sentinel when you had the bolt removed and looked down the bolt tube you could see that one Ball Detent was clearly sticking out further than the other, and that is usually the one that comes out.
Now if your ball falls out of your ball detent and your are lucky enough to save all three peices (detent body, spring, and ball) then you can reassemble then or if your detent is still together you can adjust the ball in by setting the detent on a hard flat surface, ball side up, and taking a hammer with a flat smooth metal face and lightly hitting or tapping the detent. Be careful not to put it too far in because you can't undue this adjustment and it is probably not recommended or covered by Action Markers.