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Old 11-20-2006, 03:37 PM #1
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Lightbulb Pulse RF chip installation on a PMR rail (with pics)

Cross posted from my "don't break your solenoid" thread because this is really useful info for Rail & pulse users.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tmizzle View Post
can we get a how to solder a pulse chip into the PMR ??? it would be appriciated by many .
WARNING! Modifying your marker will void your warranty!
This includes any method of installing the RF chip.

It's surprisingly simple. Here's how to, off the top of my head:

1) open the grip and disconnect the battery. Also disconnect the eye ribbon cable, the battery/trigger plug and then carefully unplug the solenoid cable.

2) Remove the battery and board. Set them aside.

3) unplug then unscrew the reg. Unscrew the reg ASA. Unscrew the two screws which hold the trigger frame to the marker body. Gently pull the body away from the trigger frame, making sure to grab the trigger return spring and set it aside. Pull the solenoid cable and eye ribbon out of the trigger frame.

4 optional) I find it easier to work on the solenoid when it's detached from the marker body. If you're not comfortable with being able to put it back with its gasket properly aligned then skip this step. Using a #0 phillips screwdriver, unscrew the solenoid from the marker body. Take the solenoid out and grab the solenoid gasket out from behind where the solenoid sat. Remember how it was oriented on the solenoid for when you go to put it back together.

5) Cut both solenoid wires about half-way down. Strip 1-2mm from all four ends. Take some heat-shrink tube and cut two pieces about 1/4" long, and put them on the plug end of the solenoid's wires.

6) Match up the red ends from the solenoid wire's two ends, and the red end from the RF chip's cable. Gently twist them together and solder. Slide the heat shrink tube over the solder joint and shrink in place using a lighter, match or heat gun. Do the same for the black wires. The solenoid cable should run through both ends of the heat shrink tube, with the RF chip cable running back up towards the solenoid.

7) Using a multimeter, test the conductivity from each of the red ends to its mate on the black end. If everything still conducts then you're good to go.

8) Plug the RF chip into the RF chip's cable. It will fit in the back nook of the trigger frame with the plug sticking up behind the solenoid into the marker body. Put the rest of your marker back together

9) Turn the marker on and verify that the solenoid still fires (clicks) without air. Leave the marker on and able to "fire". Turn off your pulse. Hold the power button on the pulse until the light slowly blinks green. Pull the trigger to fire the solenoid. The pulse's LED should blink green quickly. Go ahead and let go of the pulse button. Turn the pulse back on and stop the feed disc with your finger. Verify that the marker is sync'd by pulling the trigger. Each time you pull the disc should start spinning again.

Picture of the finished wires: click for bigger:


Picture of the rf chip seated, ready to re-assemble. Click for bigger:

Last edited by CrazyLittle : 11-20-2006 at 06:51 PM.
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Old 11-20-2006, 04:08 PM #2
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Old 11-20-2006, 04:10 PM #3
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Old 11-20-2006, 05:30 PM #4
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Very nice, I say sticky this.
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Old 11-20-2006, 06:19 PM #5
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Old 11-20-2006, 06:31 PM #6
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i didnt know you had to cut nooid wires.. so then does this void your warrenty and you cant sed it back to dye
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Old 11-20-2006, 06:53 PM #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dyematrix2005 View Post
i didnt know you had to cut nooid wires.. so then does this void your warrenty and you cant sed it back to dye
You can also solder the rf chip's wires directly to the contact leads behind the solenoid socket on the trigger board, but that will also void your warranty, and it's much easier to screw it up that way. Here's the video showing a direct-to-board install on a different gun. The method is the same for any gun.

I'm sure you can send it back to Proto still, but they won't support any 3rd party mods, and will charge you for replacement parts of the stuff you modify.

Last edited by CrazyLittle : 11-20-2006 at 06:55 PM.
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Old 11-21-2006, 12:08 AM #8
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Nice post. It has been added to the Ultimate sticky. Thank you for making the thread.

On a side note Im starting to dig the Pulse with RF. I have to look into them a bit more

later
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Old 11-21-2006, 01:30 PM #9
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Looks good!
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Old 01-08-2007, 12:31 AM #10
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sorry to bring this back but if u go to destructive customs, they sell a harness where you can connect the rf chip to the solenoid but it doesnt void the warrenty. I picked one up and thought i share the wealth.
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Old 01-08-2007, 12:47 AM #11
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^^ yup. someone did a review on these:
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=1915505

I'm glad he did the review with detailed pictures. $23 dollars is a bit much. Basically it is connectors connected in parallel. I'll make these myself for a few dollars if i decide to pick up a pulse and rf chip.
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Old 03-01-2007, 11:06 AM #12
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Hey They also have one on tadaos website for 15.00$
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Old 03-01-2007, 11:40 AM #13
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I just had the drop in Harness from DC and did pretty much the exact same thing. Except I have my RF chip flipped over rather than it shows here....
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Old 03-01-2007, 01:20 PM #14
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sticky nice now i actualy wana buy the rf chip
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Old 03-01-2007, 02:31 PM #15
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Old 04-16-2007, 08:24 PM #16
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bought a tadao harness and installed on my dm4 with stock board and special chips. No sync...any thoughts or ways to test if the rf chip might be bad?
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Old 05-01-2007, 10:15 PM #17
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Use a multimeter and test for voltage on the harness pins. You should get a small reading each time you pull the trigger.
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Old 05-02-2007, 12:42 AM #18
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but the question is...how much of a reading is enough to power the rf chip? If the board puts out 3.3volts (random number) the harness acts almost like a spliter...So would the signal to the noid and to the end of the harness were the chip goes be degraded? My other thought is if you just hook up the rf chip and not the wires to the noid, even though the gun won't fire the pulse should spin...any thoughts.
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Old 05-02-2007, 02:00 AM #19
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No, the harness does not act like a "splitter" since voltage does not work that way. When you solder the harness onto both pins, you're connecting the harness and solenoid in parallel. Both devices will pull whatever current they need at the voltage supplied by the gun.
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