My halo in an egg mod.
Added notes and directions will be in red
An egg, or egg style raceway in anything so that the servo top is parallel to the bottom of the raceway bottom so that the halo spring cone can spin
A screw, not necessarily wood threaded, but that will work. just as long as it will grip into the white hex piece on top of the servo that is about a half of an inch long and slightly wider then the stock. I had access to a longer servo screw which was perfect so idk exactly what to send you for.
A thin washer that the above screw fits trough with wiggle room
Optional but recommended [small Technics black spacer and a pair of plairs]-if not using the spacer then you will need another washer as described above, however the impellor is liable to wobble and could possibly jam so don’t be surprised.
A small eye screw- I stole one out of a fishing lure or something. Wait on this until the end so that so can be sure it will work.
The stock halo spring cup and spring. You could also use the ones that come in the S4 kit from empire.
Egg servo and impellor.
Optional but recommended [Dremmel with a cutoff wheel, small cylindrical grinding stone, deburing bit, and a very small drill bit.]
Small amount of epoxy
First take apart the egg and get just the servo with the impellor off of it in front of you.
Do the two paddle mod as seen in the Official Egg Mod thread. Now carefully pull the white rubber that makes up the paddles up and off of the hard black plastic.
Now using the cut off disk or a knife cut the bottom section of the impellor flush with the top. [Now drill and then grind the impellor top out until the Technics spacer fits inside. Use the pliers to force it in, and epoxy to keep it there.] make sure that the bottom of the impellor is smooth and spins nicely on the top of the spring cone.
Apply epoxy to the part of the black plastic that went into the white rubber and then reassemble and allow to dry.
Shave out slightly the walls of the spring cup with the small knife. Very little material is enough to make the spring cup fit onto the hexagonal servo mount. Once it is on take it apart, apply a little epoxy and re assemble. Now put it in the raceway and push the cup down until it is just skimming the bottom. Make sure that the cup is sitting flat.
Place the spring in the cup, and the impellor on top. Eyeball the height and angle that is necessary for the eye screw to reach from the black plastic to below that top of the stopper in the spring cone.
[Use the small drill bit to start the hole that you just eyeballed]- now screw the eyebolt in with a dab of epoxy to hold it in.
Epoxy the tab on the bottom of the spring into place in front of the stopper in the spring cup.
Now assemble the whole thing by putting the screw through the first washer and the impellor top first, hooking the top tab from the spring into the eye screw, twisting the impellor so that the eye screw is behind the stopper in the spring tray [tensed], put the second washer on [first if using Technics spacer], and while holding it all in place tighten the screw down so that the impellor can just spin freely.
if the screw is coming undone you can epoxy it in. If this is caused by the fact that the screw is too short you can dremmel down the top of the spring cup, drill a hole fo rhte screw to sink into in the impellor[if using the spacer], remove the bottom washer, etc
if the impellor is spongy on the return, or doesn't return with the spring's power then loosen the screw until it does, look to find a point of friction, find a stronger spring like that out of the empire upgrade cone, etc
if the hopper has suddenly slowed down the spring tray is likely dragging on the bottom of the raceway and needs to be raised slightly.
Battery door mods:
Infinite 727 [GOD] broken battery door mod battery door mod-
file/sandpaper/dremel (any one of those are fine)
drill or something to make small holes
sliding clip (type of thing on coats : see pics below)
take off the front piece of battery door which keep it on egg
drill 2 holes on each side of the battery door, evenly spaceing them
drill 2 holes above battery door on egg proportionately placing them
drill hole in the middle of battery door
this part may be confusing, modify to what suits you : take the string and route it through the holes so that the middle of the string comes through the hole drilled in bottom of battery door
place clip on the extruding piece from middle
tighten to keep door shut/release to open
My door mod
- replace the battery board with two nine volt clips like so
Cut the battery board off, and eyeball and cut the nine volt connector leads so that when installed the battery connectors can sick out a little less then two inches. Now connect the red wire coming from the circuit board to the red of the forst connector. Now cut the black wire to the first connector and the black of the second to an inch long, and connect. Last connect the red wire of the connector to the black of the board wire. Now there is no pressure on the battery door, so a new shell, will have its door last forever.
If your door is already broken do the following:
Find a small (4-40 in my case) diameter screw and matching bolt that is ¼ inch long. Drill through the battery door and into the door holding tab (preferably on the side that is already messed up) and super glue the nut in place over the hole. Now when you close the batt door put the screw in place and it will hold the door in place. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN.
Here’s another that is self explanatory
buy the servo out of a RC plane. you want something that will be fast, but not insanely so. Also don’t get anything with very high torque. If it has a limited rotation like 180 degrees don’t be discouraged, it is kjust a matter of finding the tab inside that is holding it in place, and cutting it out. 7-10 bps http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXUZ89&P=ML
here is a tutorial on how to change the servo you buy if it is a real fixed positon-board controlled servo into the basic motor that is used in the egg and revvy.
Glory Hound’s gear shave mod-
“To begin with I had noticed my EVOII hopper was somewhat slower than the one a friend of mine had (Hi Ecco! You gave me the idea to do it), even using the same batteries, same board, same paint and everything. My hopper was also sounding louder than his. This got me thinking that there had to be some kind of resistance in the motor unit, perhaps the tolerances of the fit of the plastic gears inside?
What I did was I removed the motor unit from the eggo and opened it with a small electronics screwdriver.
I checked the fit of the gears and found them being slightly too tight a fit. I removed the center one and very carefully filed the outer teeth of the gear down a tiny tiny bit. Then I used a hobby knife to remove shavings and to scrape the bottoms between the teeth slightly. Then I checked the other gears, but they fit very well together. I cleaned all the gears from any plastic residue from the work on the middle gear. I also removed the grease internally, though only because I thought it might have little plastic shavings in it, and lubed the gears up with what I had at hand -PMI paintball gun oil. Any paintball gun oil would do nicely I think.
Finally I re-assembled the motor and then the hopper.
And that's about it. Doesn't sound too complicated does it?
Just be sure to note the placement of the gears, well they only fit one way but it helps a lot if you remember how they are supposed to be placed anyway before taking them apart.
Be careful, be gentle and even with the filing down of the gear and generous with the oil.”
Rip drive mod
(forgot who this was done by)
Dissaseble the servo. On the side where there is no motor drill down through the spot where the pin goes that holds the gear in place. Drill this hole straight down through bottom of the servo, and then continue the line through the shell. Epoxy a rod long enough to reach all the way through the bottom onto the bottom of the gear whose support you just drilled through. Now affix to the bottom of that rod whatever you decide to use as a rip drive. Note, the gears are plastic so never use the rip drive while the hopper is on.
- remove lid springs, and down/ cut off the tabs that hold it open and closed, use a dremmel to shorten the lid screws if you have them
XSV lid mod
- While assembled open the lid and heat the outer rim of the lid with a lighter. Using a flathead screw driver bend the lid back slightly. Be careful not to bend too much plastic or the lid won’t close fully. This makes it so that if you swipe your hand over the top of the egg it pops open.