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Old 09-09-2006, 07:17 AM #1
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Ultimate Sticky : A COMPILATION OF ION KNOWLEDGE ☆☆ READ BEFORE POSTING A QUESTION ☆☆

Ultimate Sticky


FAQ



Technical Help

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Electronic Settings
Miscellaneous
How to Set Dwell

Manuals


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Electronic board Support/ Problems/ Question threads

Guides

Modifications


Reviews

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Why do people hate ions?
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Last edited by spug : 06-04-2009 at 10:27 PM.
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Old 09-09-2006, 07:17 AM #2
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FAQ Version 2.0


Ion XE FAQ

HP or LP Tanks?
  • First and foremost the ION will take HP and LP style tanks. It is more recommended to use an HP tank as some cheaper made LP tanks produce some shootdown.

What is the bore size for the stock ion barrel?
  • .689

Where is the Serial #?


Can the Ion run on co2?
  • Yes, it can. Compressed air is recommended however not required. If you use CO2, anti-siphon CO2 is required. Most proshops carry anti-siphon tubes available for purchase if you need to upgrade your CO2 tank.

Can the Ion shoot faster than 17 bps?
  • Stock it is capped by the board. The internals are in no way capped at 17. Ydna has proven that it can shoot 21-22 with stock internals and an uncapped board. With a QEV (Quick Exhaust Valve) it can shoot close to 28, or faster.

What regulators can the Ion accept?
  • The asa is not "reverse threaded", it can accept any standard threaded regulators (AKA Sidewinder, Bob Long Torpedo, CP reg, Evolve Pit, just to name some examples). Reverse threading only means that the screw using to adjust the pressure is reversed, not the actual threads itself.

Does the Ion really have drop off over long strings?
  • As long as the marker is operating correctly and the electronics are correctly set, no there will be no drop off.

Can I remove the vertical adapter filter?
Does the vertical adapter filter cause shootdown?
  • This filter is there to help keep your incomming air supply clean and free of debris. The filter is designed to be used with both CO2 and HPA; it's equally valuable regardless of which air supply you use.
    Although the reg filter isn't absolutely required for the marker to function, you're better off having it installed without the need, than you are not having it when you actually do need it. Both CO2 and HPA can have dirty fills; this can cause problems if the solenoid isn't protected (which is why the filter is present in the marker). Here is an example of what you get with no filter and a dirty air fill.

How does a QEV effect the Ion's performance?
  • It allows the air to escape at the point of the fitting instead of the air having to go back to the solenoid to be released. It also keeps excess grease out of the solenoid, as well as decreasing your operating pressure and reducing your dwell to ~ 12-16 blinks.It also allows it to cycle alot faster than it previously could. Most likely it could shoot up to 28 balls per second with a QEV and uncapped board.If you do decide to get a QEV, use teflon tape to set it in place. Do not, I repeat, DO NOT torque it into place. You can easily get it stuck that way and break the internal threads on the QEV and possibly on the Ion body itself. So be VERY careful. For questions on QEV instillation look here.
Can I install two QEV's to increase performance?
  • There is only need for one QEV on the middle banjo. The rear banjo is a one way contant output hose which never exhausts air in the other direction.

What is dwell?
  • Dwell is the amount of time that the solenoid remains open (measured in milliseconds, or ms for short), which translates to how long the bolt will stay forward. This determines the length of time that the marker's valve will release pressurized air to fire the paintball. Increases in dwell will generally increase your velocity as well, though there are working limits to this.
    Dwell is adjusted in half-millisecond intervals, starting at 8 milliseconds. This means the lowest setting on the board is 8-ms, first setting up is 8.5-ms, then 9-ms, 9.5-ms, etc etc. The stock dwell setting is 52 blinks from the bottom (34-ms). We don't recommend you adjust the dwell unless you wish to spend time and air fine-tuning the marker to possibly receive better performance. If you accidentally adjust your marker's electronics and now the gun doesn't fire, readjust the dwell to 52 and try again.

How many shots will I get off with a 72/3000 tank?
  • This is all dependent on all your other upgrades. As a rather general rule of thumb, a 3000 psi system gets 10 shots per cubic inch, and a 4500 psi system gets 15 shots per cubic inch. For example, a 47/3000 air system will give roughly 450-500 shots (the formula says 470) on an average gun. The formula estimate is pretty rough; some guns will do a lot better, and some will get fewer shots than the formula says, but it gets you in the ballpark.

How do I adjust the trigger length?
  • Remove the grips and there should be a small hole under the trigger guard on the gripframe. Put a 1/8 inch allen wrench in that hole and tighten to reduce the length, and loosen the increase length. A new magnet can also be inserted into the trigger, but I'd suggest a New Designz roller trigger, as it will save you the time and hassle of messing with the trigger, as well as being nicer in nearly every way.

What exactly is the Ion's "shell"?
  • It is a polymer shell that protects the body, and that's it. It also helps hold the eye board and ball detents in place. It in no way is related to any performance aspects of the Ion marker.

What threaded barrels does it take?
  • Impulse

What about feednecks?
  • Impulse

How do I adjust the velocity?
  • Velocity in the Ion is directly linked to the input pressure. Thus, take a cresent wrench and adjust the regulator via the screw on the bottom. Higher psi input = higher FPS... and vice versa.

How do I turn it on?
  • First, make sure the battery is in the gun. Then press the red membrane to turn the gun on. Press it once for on w/ eyes on (blink once per cycle, or if there's paint it will blink quickly). Press it again for eyes off (blink twice per cycle). Press and hold it for 2 seconds until it goes solid red, then let go to turn it off.

What is a solenoid?
  • A solenoid is a electronically controlled valve that directs pressure, in terms of a paintball marker, the air flow. If you look at the diagram by Twiek, it changes the pressure from front to back to fire the marker. This is the simplest explanation... they are very advanced little machines though.

How to take off the feedneck
  • Take a hair drier and heat up the threads. Then take a grip wrench and take off the neck or use a vice and clamp on the neck and twist. Remember to go counter clockwise so you don’t strip the existing threads on the breech.

My Banjo fitting broke, what do I do?
  1. First of all, the thread need to get out of the hole. To do this, you can either wedge a flathead screwdriver into the threads and twist them out, or buy a Screw Extractor set
  2. Now you need to get a new banjo. For the front and back, you need a 5/32" banjo. For the middle, you need a 1/8" banjo.
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Last edited by John : 08-30-2008 at 12:20 AM.
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Old 09-09-2006, 07:17 AM #3
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Manuals


T-Board Manual

Tadao Raider Board Manual

Virtue Board Manual

APE Rampage Board Manual

Page 1
Page 2
Page 3
Page 4


Pictures & Videos

Official Picture Thread

Official Action Picture Thread

Official Video Thread

Custom Body Picture Thread
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Last edited by spug : 06-16-2011 at 03:46 AM.
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Old 09-09-2006, 07:17 AM #4
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Questions About Upgrades??? CLICK HERE!!

Upgrades

Bolt Out Back Bodies

- Lucky "Stage 5" (True BOB) & "Stage 5.1"Body (True BOB)

http://www.trinitypaintball.com - TRINITY ION SICK BODY KIT 08 (True BOB)

www.deadlywind.com - Foehn (Semi-BOB), Negative Ion Body (Semi-BOB)

- Strange Ion Body (Semi-BOB)

www.shocktechusa.com - Shocktech Ion Body Kit (Semi-BOB)

- Powerlyte 07 Ion Body (Semi-BOB)


BOB = Bolt Out Back, this means the bolt can be removed from the rear of the body by unscrewing the end cap. Similar to a DM.

True Bob = Only the rear donut must be unscrewed to access the bolt.

Semi-Bob = The rear donut and trigger frame screw(s) must be unscrewed to access the bolt.


Bodies


www.ansxtreme.com - Razor Body
www.deadlywind.com - Isaria, Foehn, Negative
www.fireballmountain.com - Kage
www.warpedsportz.com - "Dark" Ion Body
www.trinitypaintball.com - Slim, Sick Bodies
www.smartparts.com - Body Kits
www.freewebs.com/ionbodykits - Decal Kits
www.punisherspb.com - Punisher Shell

Boards

www.smartparts.com - Blackheart Board
www.virtuepaintball.com/ - Virtue board
www.tadaotechnologies.com - Tadao Raider Board
www.goapeonline.com - APE Rampage Board


Bolts

www.techtpaintball.com – L7
www.orange-paintball.com – Unicorn Nano, Nano serum (XE only), Unicorn Nano Extreme Upgrade Kit
http://www.ansxtreme.com/category_s/107.htm Warrior SL Bolt
www.trinitypaintball.com - Trinity Sick Bolt
www.newdesignz.com - EQ Pro V2, Skeleton Bolt
www.smartparts.com - Firebolt

Trigger Frames

www.ansxtreme.com - 90* frame
www.punisherspb.com - Punisher 45* Frame
shop.hipe-paintball-tx.com/main.sc - HIPE Paintball Frame
www.hotshotpaintball.com - Sith Ion Frame
http://www.freewebs.com/thehump/store.html - The Hump

Triggers

www.prostarpb.com - Violent Series (Scythe)
www.customproducts.us – Roller, Sling
www.newdesignz.com - Roller , S-treme, Wave, SAW, Razr blade, Razr Slik
www.ansxtreme.com/ - Roller
www.trinitypaintball.com - Blade Trigger
www.criticalpaintball.com - Reverse Polarity Scythe


Front Breechs

http://www.ansxtreme.com/category_s/107.htm - Warrior Ion Breech Cocker or Impulse

www.newdesignz.com - AC Threaded


Firing Chambers

http://www.ansxtreme.com/category_s/107.htm - Warrior Ion Firing Can
www.newdesignz.com - Firing Can/Chamber


Rear Donuts

http://www.newdesignz.com/ - NDZ Rear Donut
www.trinitypaintball.com - Trinity Rear Donut

Detents

www.kilaproducts.com - Magnetic Detents
www.newdesignz.com - Spring Detents
www.orange-paintball.com - Spring Detents


Trigger Pins

www.criticalpaintball.com


QEVs

www.smartparts.com - Swivel
www.airsoldier.com – Quick Disconnect
www.planeteclipse.com - Barb
www.newdesignz.com – Quick Disconnect
[www.virtuepaintball.com[/url] - Quick Disconnect
www.DeadlyWind.com - Quick Disconnect


Hose Kits

www.MacroLineGuy.com - Colored Hoses
(Red, Blue, Black, Clear, White, Green, and Yellow)
www.trinitypaintball.com - Hose by the foot


Eyes

www.scenariodreams.com - Colored Eyes
www.virtuepaintball.com - Lazer eyes


Regulators

www.akalmp.com - 2 Liter, Sidewinder
www.customproducts.us - CP
www.dyeprecision.com - Hyper III
www.shocktechusa.com



Grips

www.smartparts.com - ProTouch
http://www.empirepaintball.com/zn/ Empire .45 grips



Feednecks

www.chipleymachine.com
www.smartparts.com
www.shocktechusa.com
www.ansxtreme.com
www.trinitypaintball.com
www.redzcomfort.com


Unimounts/Rails/On-Offs

www.customproducts.us - Rails and On/Offs
www.checkitproducts.com - Unimount
www.newdesignz.com - New Designz EZ-turn
www.trinitypaintball.com - Unimount and Easy On/Off with Degas System
www.redzcomfort.com - Redz Grenade ASA

Barrels

www.sitemfg.com - Stiffi, Switch Kit
www.smartparts.com - Freak Kit, All American, Etc.
www.dyeprecision.com - UL
www.customproducts.us - CP 1 piece, 2 piece, Kits
www.jjperformance.com - Edge Kit
www.warpedsportz.com - Lucky 15
www.redzcomfort - Pepper Stickz
www.slypaintball.com
www.furiouspaintball.com - LOTUS


O-RING/REBUILD KITS

www.markerkits.com - 10x ION rebuild kit
www.markerkits.com - 3x ION rebuild kit -
www.markerkits.com - 10x maxFlo reg rebuild kit
www.punisherpb.com - team ION rebuild kit
www.punisherspb.com - deluxe ION rebuild kit
www.punisherspb.com - ION seals/spare parts kit
www.oringmonkey.com - O-ring Kits

Online Stores

www.punisherspb.com
www.actionvillage.com
www.i5paintball.com
www.bosspaintballproducts.com
www.paintball-discounters.com
www.xtremez.com
www.pbwarehouse.net
www.doropaintball.com
www.sakworldpaintballsupply.com
ww.zephyrpaintball.com
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Last edited by Kolder : 11-25-2010 at 03:06 AM.
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Old 09-09-2006, 07:18 AM #5
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AIM Help List

Official Lucky Stage 5/5.1 Support Thread

Element V2 Frame Support Thread


Electronic board Support/ Problems/ Question threads

BlackHeart Support Thread

T-board Support Thread

Ape Board Support Thread

Lucky Stage 4 Support Thread

Virtue Board Support Thread

Guides

How to Install Killa Detents (PICTURES!)

Hi-Light Mod Guide

"Poor Mans" Hi-Light Mod Guide

Membrane Mod Guide

Disassembly Guide

Disassembly Vid

Stock Shell Modification Guide

Trigger Magnet Removal Guide

BlackHeart Board Guide

Stock Reg Cleaning Guide

What is recharge and how does it work?

Want to make a custom ION? Here is a parts list.

How to fix broken power connections.

How to change modes VID.

Flashing the T-Board Firmware Walk through

Pulse RF Chip Installation Guide

Installing a Pulse RF trnasmitter in Ion (zds)

Mods

Stock Board Membrane Pad + Highlight

Blackheart Board Membrane Pad + Highlight

T-Board Ver A LED

T-Board Ver C LED

Lucky Stage 4 LED Relocation Mod

LED "lazer" Eyes Mod

QEV Install Guide

Laser Eyes

Membrane Mod

Chamber Mod

Hi-Light Mod

Trigger Gaurd Mod

Deadlywind Foehn Bolt Out Back Mod

fdjizm's stock bolt mod

Stock Ion Trigger Mod

Reviews

VP Scythe Review

Firebolt Review

L6, Firebolt, and Nano Review

Lucky Stage 4 Board Review

Lucky Stage 1 V3 Bolt
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Last edited by spug : 05-07-2011 at 06:39 AM.
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Old 09-09-2006, 07:18 AM #6
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Other

Rate My Ion Thread

Appraisal Thread: How Much Is My ION Worth?

Ion Oring Info

Electronic Board Comparison Chart and Discussion Thread

Lucky Stage 5 FAQ

The Lube Thread
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Last edited by spug : 02-22-2010 at 07:59 PM.
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Old 09-09-2006, 07:18 AM #7
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Leaks


Follow these direction to pin-point the leak.

Step 1 : Disassemble the marker. Seperate the trigger frame from the firing assembly. Remove the battery, eye board, eye wires, body shell.

Step 2 : With the shell still off, reconnect the mid banjo or qev to the breech and reconnect the rear banjo to the donut. With the trigger frame still seperate from the firing assembly, reconnect the front banjo to the trigger frame ASA port.

Step 3 : Turn down your reg and air up the ION. Increase the pressure to about 100psi.

Step 4 : Listen for the general area that the leak is coming from. Mix a bowl of 25% dishsoap and 75% water and apply it to the leak area with a q-tip. Bubbles will form at the exact point where air is escaping.

If the leak stopped with the firing assembly off the frame, the common cause is bad hoses. Try gently pulling and pushing on hoses to try to determine which hose is causing the leak.

It is common for the frame to push on the rear banjo when it's assembled, causing the rear banjo to leak. Try shortening the rear hose by 1mm. Make sure the cut is clean and straight. If you still have it, try replacing the rear hose with the spare hose that came with your Ion. Also, you can try swapping the rear banjo with the front banjo.



Refer to this PDF file for Parts/Oring locations
SP Ion Parts and Orings

A - A leak down the barrel is most likely caused by an unlubed oring or a worn out oring. Check these orings: Bolt Main Seal (Body Assembly #19), Bolt Stop Outer Seal (Body Assembly #5), Bolt Stop Inner Seal (Body Assembly #23), Bolt Guide Seal (Body Assembly #7).

Plug the holes in the face of the bolt with your finger. If the leak stops, the problem is most likely one of the two bolt stop seals are dry or damaged.


B - A leak up the feedneck is caused by the same orings as a leak down the barrel. (see A)

C - A leak between the Body Breech and Fire Chamber is caused by a worn out oring. Check these orings: Body Front Seal (Body Assembly #5), Outer Body Seal (Body Assembly #6).

D - A leak from the front or back of the Swivel Donut is caused by worn orings. Check this oring: Fire Chamber Seals (Body Assembly #11).
There is two of them under the donut. You will need a snap ring removal tool to get the donut off or you can use a pair of small needle nose pliers with very sharp tips. Insert each tip into the holes on the snap ring and open the pliers.

E - A leak from the Bolt tail is caused by a unlubed or worn oring. Check this oring: Bolt Rear Seal (Body Assembly #18). A small amount of air will be expelled during firing when the bolt returns to the open position. This is normal.

F - A leak from the rear 4mm Banjo Fitting threads can be caused by a worn out or damaged banjo seal. Replace the banjo oring with a 1.5x3mm oring. Check to make sure it is not cross threaded and there is no debris around the Swivel Donut inlet port. Screw it in finger tight. If it still leaks, replace the banjo fitting.

G - A leak from the rear 4mm Banjo Fitting quick disconnect can be caused by a bad hose. There is not much room for the hose and the barb on the Solenoid. This causes the hose to be pushed into the banjo's quick disconnect when the trigger frame is screwed on. A quick disconnect will not seal properly if the hose is being pushed into it. Remove the Banjo Fitting and make sure the hose end is intact and cut straight. Make sure the hose bottoms out inside the banjo's quick disconnect. Try cutting 1mm off the end of the hose to shorten it up. This will create some tension pulling on the hose and letting the quick disconnect seal up. Shortening the hose leading to the middle banjo fitting will accomplish the same thing.

H - A leak from the hose end is caused by a bad hose. This generally happens after the Ion has been over-pressured. The hose is stretched and looses it's tensile strength. Replace it. A tiny amount of lube on the barb will help the hose go on.

I - A leak from the Solenoid Barb is caused by a worn out oring. Check this oring: Barb Seal (Body Assembly #28). Also check that the barb is not cross threaded into the Solenoid Tee Fitting. When changing the Barb Seal, remove the Solenoid Tee Fitting from the solenoid to prevent stress on the electronics board.

J - A leak from the Solenoid exhaust port is caused by a damaged or dirty bottom seal on the Solenoid armature. Disassemble the Solenoid and clean the rubber seal at the bottom of the armature. Do not lube anything in the Solenoid. If a QEV is not used, a small amount of air will be exhausted from this hole during firing when the bolt moves to a closed position. This is normal.

K - A leak from the hose end is caused by a bad hose. This generally happens after the Ion has been over-pressured. The hose is stretched and looses it's tensile strength. Replace it being extra careful. This port is made of plastic and will break if too much force is applied. A tiny amount of lube on the barb will help the hose go on.

L - A leak from the Solenoid Barb is caused by a worn out oring. Check this oring: Barb Seal (Body Assembly #28). Also check that the barb is not cross threaded into the Solenoid Tee Fitting. When changing the Barb Seal, remove the Solenoid Tee Fitting from the solenoid to prevent stress on the electronics board.

M - A leak from the hose end is caused by a bad hose. This generally happens after the Ion has been over-pressured. The hose is stretched and looses it's tensile strength. Replace it. A tiny amount of lube on the barb will help the hose go on.

N - A leak from the middle 1/8 Banjo Fitting quick disconnect (or QEV quick disconnect) can be caused by a bad hose. Remove the Banjo Fitting and make sure the hose end is intact and cut straight. Make sure the hose bottoms out inside the banjo's quick disconnect. Try cutting 1mm off the end of the hose to shorten it up. This will create some tension pulling on the hose and letting the quick disconnect seal up. A quick disconnect will not seal properly if the hose is being pushed into it.

O - A leak from the middle 1/8 Banjo Fitting threads can be caused by a worn out or damaged banjo seal. Replace the banjo oring with a 1.5x3mm oring. Check to make sure it is not cross threaded and there is no debris around the breech inlet port. Screw it in finger tight. If it still leaks, replace the banjo fitting. If using a QEV try using a 08/90 oring or alot of teflon tape. When using teflon tape, do not allow any near the air port, keep it all on the threads.

P - (QEV only) A leak from the QEV exhaust port can be caused by a damaged QEV. Replace it. A small amount of air will be exhausted from this hole during firing when the bolt moves to a closed position. This is normal.

Q - A leak from the front 4mm Banjo Fitting quick disconnect can be caused by a bad hose. Remove the Banjo Fitting and make sure the hose end is intact and cut straight. Make sure the hose bottoms out inside the banjo's quick disconnect. Try cutting 1mm off the end of the hose to shorten it up. This will create some tension pulling on the hose and letting the quick disconnect seal up. A quick disconnect will not seal properly if the hose is being pushed into it.

R - A leak from the front 4mm Banjo Fitting threads can be caused by a worn out or damaged banjo seal. Replace the banjo oring with a 1.5x3mm oring. Check to make sure it is not cross threaded and there is no debris around the Grip Frame outlet port. Screw it in finger tight. If it still leaks, replace the banjo fitting.

S - A leak from the Gauge threads can be fixed by removing the gauge, cleaning the loctight from the threads and reinstalling it with fresh loctight or teflon tape. Make sure to let the loctight set before airing it up. A leak from the bleed hole on the side of the gauge means the gauge is blown. Replace it.

T - A leak between the Grip Frame and the Regulator can be caused by a worn or damaged oring. Check this oring: Reg ASA Seal (Regulator Assembly #14). Make sure the Body Filter (Grip Frame Assembly #5) is sitting flat in the Grip Frame ASA while you are screwing the regulator in.
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Old 09-09-2006, 07:18 AM #8
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Electronic Settings


Board Instructions:
Stock Board: Basic Advanced
Blackheart
Tadao

How to set Dwell:
Dwell is the name for the amount of time the solenoid remains open, which is the approximate amount of time the bolt will remain forward, which is the amount of time pressurized air will be released to fire the paintball. Because of this, increases in dwell generally cause increases in velocity, and vice-versa (however there are working limits to this). Dwell can effect a number of things, including but not limited to, velocity, consistency, efficiency, and maximum rate of fire.

The dwell setting on your marker is what allows the bolt to fully cycle from shot to shot. If set too low, the bolt will half-stroke and the gun won't fire properly. If set too high, the valve will be open for too long and air will be wasted, decreasing efficiency. Because of this, it's generally best to use the lowest dwell setting possible, while still keeping it above the point where the marker has trouble firing.
Please note there is no such thing as the perfect dwell setting. Some guns will require a higher setting than others, depending on the parts, manufacturing characteristics, weather conditions, etc etc. Each gun requires a bit of experimentation to find the optimal setting that should be used.

Detailed below is the suggested method for finding this optimal dwell setting for your particular Ion. This is how I set all Ions that go through the shop for repair. The setting may be fine-tuned later on, but this will give you a good starting point to use.
1. Pressurize your Ion at whatever input pressure you wish to use. I suggest between 150-180 psi, depending on the internals. The following steps involve you dry-firing the marker (firing it without paint).
2. Lower the dwell to the minimum setting (or an extremely low setting, such as 5 blinks with the stock board, or 8 milliseconds with an aftermarket board).
3. Gradually increase dwell until the marker begins to fully cycle. When the marker has trouble cycling, the sound of the bolt firing will be muffled and sound erratic, denoting inconsistencies. When you reach the point where it fully cycles, the marker will sound loud on each shot you take, with minimal sound difference between the shots.
4. Once the Ion is fully cycling, increase the dwell another 4-6 blinks (2-3 milliseconds with aftermarket board), and that will be your dwell setting.

Setting your Pressure/Velocity:
Pressure adjustment is easier than messing with the electronics. The marker's input pressure is how you determine the velocity for your shots, so after setting your dwell simply use your pressure adjustment to achieve your desired velocity. Higher the pressure, higher the velocity; lower the pressure, lower the velocity.
Use the included 5/8" wrench (or pliers) to adjust the screw. When looking up at the bottom of the regulator, screwing the adjustment endcap clockwise will increase the pressure, and counterclockwise to decrease it. Use the gauge on the side of the frame to view the pressure going into the marker.


Electronics Q&A

Q: What are the stock settings?
A: Stock settings are: Dwell at 52 and Recharge at 10. These settings will limit your Ion to 15bps maximum rate of fire.

Returning your Ion to stock settings
First set your dwell to 52 blinks from the bottom.

1. Push the programming button multiple times until it is on solid red
2. Push the power button repeatedly until the yellow led does not blink anymore. You have now bottomed out the dwell.
3. Push the programming button multiple times until it is on solid yellow
4. Push the power button 52 times

Then set your recharge to 10 blinks from the bottom.

1. Push the programming button multiple times until it is on single blink red
2. Push the power button repeatedly until the yellow led does not blink anymore. You have now bottomed out the recharge.
3. Push the programming button multiple times until it is on single blink yellow.
4. Push the power button 10 times.
5. Push the trigger to exit programming mode.
6. Turn the ion off to record the settings to memory. Just pulling the battery will not save the settings to memory.

Q: How do I fine tune my Ion for best performance?
A: Following these steps, you can setup your Ion for best gas efficiency and velocity consistency. Your reg must be properly broken in and lubed for good results. I get +/-2 fps at the chrono.

1. Bottom out the dwell
2. Set your input pressure to about 120 psi
3. Increase the dwell until the marker cycles properly at +/- 10 fps consistency
4. Increase your input pressure up to desired fps
5. Increase the dwell up by 1 until velocity stays consistent. If consistency is already good. reduce the dwell down by 1 until it becomes inconsistent, then bring back up 2.
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Old 09-09-2006, 07:18 AM #9
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Technical Help FAQ


Velocity dropoff during rapid fire.
  • Replace the battery.

  • Increase the dwell. Try using the stock setting (52 blinks with stock board, 34 milliseconds with aftermarket board), or if you have a QEV you can try it at 16 or more blinks (16 or more milliseconds with aftermarket board).

    Guide to fine tuning Dwell

  • Clean and re grease the regulator. This is most often the cause.

    Regulator maintenance guide

  • Clean and re grease the firing assembly and solenoid. Be sure not to over grease or under grease the o-rings, as either can cause the problem.

    Firing assembly maintenance guide

  • Make sure your tank is screwed in as far as possible.

Ion maintenance:


Regular maintenance will keep your Ion operating fast and reliably. You will need to clean it and lube it or it will break-down. Use Shocker Lube (DOW33).

Disassembly Videos




Webpages
Why won't my board come out when I try to lift off the firing assembly?
  • Make sure to push up on the bottom of the boardwhile lifting off the firing assembly. Sometimes, the conformal coating that SP applies to the boards makes them very hard to remove for the first couple of times. It will get easier over time.

How do I remove the macroline?
  • The macroline goes into a fitting and the fitting screws into the marker. Hold the collar on the fitting down while pulling on the macroline tube. It should slide out. To replace, just push the macroline tube into the fitting and give it a light pull to seat the collar again. Make sure your macroline cuts are square and clean.

How do I change the Trigger?
  • A: 1. Remove the grips and disconnect the battery. Separate the frame from the body and disconnect the front microline fitting (1/8" allen wrench to remove the frame and fitting), gently set the body aside.
    2. Use a metal punch, nail and hammer, or other tool to remove the trigger pin from the frame. This is the small circle located directly above the trigger in the frame. The trigger pin needs to exit on the same side as the gauge. The trigger will then slide up and out from the frame.
    3. Once the trigger is out, slide in the new trigger and reinstall the trigger pin. Some triggers require different instructions (such as the CP roller trigger, refer to their instructions if necessary). Adjust the trigger set screws to your preference.
    4. Reconnect the microline fittings and reassemble the frame to the body. Reconnect the battery and reinstall the grips.
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Last edited by Kolder : 12-09-2007 at 11:19 AM.
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Old 02-03-2009, 10:44 PM #10
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Mech Ion "How To" thread
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