(Thread title shamelessly stolen from Icedrelm)
I've broken my Type-R down into its components and figured I'd relay what I found to the 'nation. I've also included information from this and other threads that helpful folks have posted.
Barrel Threads: Autococker
Power: 9V battery
Stock Regulators: bottomline reg and Low Pressure Regulator (LPR).
Stock Barrel: .693
The manual is actually pretty good. There's some "Engrish" in it, but in general it does a good job of describing the Type-R and how to maintain it. Read the Fine Manual.
Similarities to Other Markers:
Judging by pictures of a disassembled Diablo Wrath
, the Type-R and Wrath have essentially identical LPRs, valve pins and grip frames (obviously the trigger guard on the Wrath is frame is different). So keep your eyes in the Diablo forum for news on grips, settings, and other information. A lot of it will apply to the Type-R.
Check out the Wrath FAQ
The grip frame and bottomline reg pictures in this thread
should look familiar to a Type-R owner.
Looks like a similar solenoid as well.
Some more speculation about the Rex Type-R's origins
This marker is almost entirely Metric
, down to the pneumatic fittings. Put away your SAE (1/8", 1/16", etc.) tools, and get or buy a set of Metric ones (3mm, 2.5mm, etc.). This INCLUDES the cap screws holding the bottom line rail to the grip frame. The adjusters on the LPR and bottomline reg seem to need SAE Hex wrenches, though. I don't have anything to measure threads on something that big.
For whatever reason, the cap screw holding the ASA to the body is SAE. It's 1/4-28 threads and requires a 3/16" Allen key. This may have been a compromise to allow common aftermarket ASAs (15 degree, etc) to be used easily.
The trigger is very floppy and has lots of side-to-side movement. The pivot pin is 3mm diameter. Take apart enough old CD-Rom drives, and you'll likely find plenty of 3mm washers in various thicknesses to stack on either side of the trigger to make it tighter. The trigger pin is a beast to get out
- you'll need a press and a mandrel smaller than 3mm.
The pneumatic fittings between the LPR, solenoid and ram are 5mm. You'll want to find "M5" fittings.
The LPR and Ram fittings have a little sleeve that must be unscrewed from around the hose before the hose can be pulled off the fittings. This is kind of a nice touch, which will tend to keep them from popping off. The manual says to unscrew the fitting from the Ram when pulling out the Ram, and that is indeed the best way.
I don't see any built-in QEV in the ram cap, so if you'd like to add a QEV to speed things up, you'll have to do some engineering.
I have an SMC QEV with M5 threads, but it's huge
The base part number is AQ1500. Beware: SMC's website seems to be Internet Explorer only. :/
The Wrath Ram cap includes a QEV, but it's threaded into the body and not retained by a pin like the Type-R. With some luck and tools, it MIGHT be able to be modified to fit, but it's certainly not a "drop-in" replacement.
A scenario Dreams Dragun TES T-board is almost a drop-in replacement
for the stock board. The wiring (including eye wiring) matches. Unfortunately, there's a tall component on the T-board that must be dealt with before the grips can fit over it. Fixing this problem is probably beyond most people - it requires some delicate soldering.
Apparently, Damon is working on a Rex T-board so we'll see if that is a better fit.
The wiring to the eyes makes a sharp turn on the right side of the marker (under the eye cover), and it is VERY POSSIBLE that one or more of the wires could get pinched if you're not careful putting on the eye cover. A little Dremeling here could probably help.
The trigger switch is tiny
and not replaceable by the "50 gram" or lighter switches out there.
Here's some more discussion about solenoid valves and boards
For those that are unaware, the Type-R features a "bottomline regulator". You need to know that this regulator uses your tank's pin valve to help regulate the pressure into the gun
. If you, like me, run a remote line or use a CO2 tank with an on/off instead of a pin valve, you will pass full tank pressure to the internals and LPR and destroy your gun
. Well, you'll at least damage all the o-rings in your LPR and solenoid.
Fortunately, the Type-R includes a standard ASA on the body, into which a normal inline regulator can be installed.
I'm not competent to tell you which inline to get. That's a huge question and you're better off checking the stickies of every single marker forum. This gun is very similar to a Wrath, so you stand to get the best information from the Diablo forum.
The Type-R uses "tab" style feedneck adaptors. As discussed below, Spyder feednecks will work, but may require some sanding/filing to work. The neck on my Type-R fits into its tabs very
snugly. Wrath or Odyssey necks should work fine.
I'm going to take my Type-R to my local Pro shop soon and see if they'll let me test-fit a few. Then I'll post my results.
I bought a Wrath feedneck on eBay and it works great.
Just be careful not to overtighten the screws holding the neck on
, it distorts the body and will start scratching the bolt. A little blue Loctite 242 on the threads before snugging them down is the best bet.
Like an idiot, I accidentally sheared off the ball detent that came with the marker, and there are no spares included. I had a PMI Piranha detent lying around, which sort-of works, but requires trimming since the diameter is slightly larger than the stock detent.
Intimidator detents work, but the "base" is too large and needs to be thinned and cut down. I took off about half the thickness and cut it into an octagon shape. Seems to work just peachy.
Detents need to be about .210" in diameter to fit in the detent hole.
This is pure speculation, but Wrath and AR-1 grips ought to fit. Here's a place
. To me, they look more comfortable than the stock grips, but I've never held an AR-1 and don't know for sure.
Check the Diablo forum - you could order Wrath or AR-1 replacement grips through NPS
There is some speculation that Hybrid is making grips for the Wrath
, which may work for the Type-R.
Valve diameter is .687". Main opening is a generous .350" and the valve pin diameter is about .202", but tapers down to .117" to allow better flow. There's a neato delrin sleeve inside the valve. Its overall size is almost exactly that of a Kingman Spyder valve. Full valve pin travel is about .222".
There was some good discussion about upgrade valves in this thread
The valve pin doesn't easily unscrew from the cupseal, and I'm reluctant to try too hard just yet.
Here's page 10 of the manual
, which gives the switch positions for the stock board.
After some experimentation, I've arrived at settings for my Type-R. Keep in mind these are from a T-board, and that I'm using a modified Ion reg.
HPR: 275 psi
LPR: adjusted so velocity was 280fps
I didn't try any other HPR pressures.
Interestingly, it seems that the LPR has a pretty predictable effect on velocity. 1 turn = about 60fps, and 1/2 turn = about 30fps.
ReiGn52 has this to say about debounce:
Originally Posted by ReiGn52
I just adjusted my dbounce today and it seems to work best at 20BPS setting and the dbounce at 16 or 21ms. It can easily cap out the board on 21ms.
I'll update this post with more information as becomes available.
Special thanks to: