I received my new Type-R last week and I've been dying to try my Scenario Dreams Dragun TES board in it. My T-board is an older style
(pre Ver. C), so it draws more power when "off" than the newer T-boards.
With a tiny exception, it works perfectly.
The screw holes line up exactly, and the two buttons on the T-board line up perfectly with the two holes in the grip. On the Type-R, one of the holes is for the LED while the other is for the power/mode button. The T-board uses both holes for buttons. This means I'll either have to drill a hole in the grip to see the LED, or maybe move the LED elsewhere.
I've plugged the solenoid into the "SOL" plug, the trigger into the "Trig" plug, and the eyes into the eye plug. What surprised me is that the stock eye connector plugs right into the board and works
. I have removed the battery connector from the T-board in a previous experiment with it, but I believe the Type-R battery plug will also plug right into the T-board's battery connector.
The T-board defaults to break-beam eyes, and since the Type-R comes with bounce-beam eyes, the T-board has to be switched to Bounce-Beam mode.
WARNING: The wires from the Type-R solenoid are thick copper wire - they are NOT stranded and will therefore break if you bend them excessively. I'm probably going to replace the solenoid wires with stranded versions because I know
I'll have this thing apart a whole lot.
I didn't expect a lot of difference. The stock board was set to minimum debounce, with 15bps cap and eyes off. It really didn't like having the trigger walked. The T-board made me sound much more like a pro. The stock trigger is VERY floppy side-to-side, and at first I thought this was the cause of my inability to get very many cps out of the gun. The difference in cps between the stock board and the T-board is like night and day.
So what's the tiny exception? There's a large capacitor in the middle of the board which is about 1/16" too tall for the grips. Considering this gun didn't exist when the board was designed, that's not a fault by any means. I'll just have to de-solder it and replace it with a surface-mount cap or a lower-profile one. You can see the cap on this page
- it's the tallish round thing near the top button. I think this is the capacitor for the on-board regulator, so it's necessary and shouldn't be removed completely.
It may be possible to drill out the grip a little to make room for the cap, but it looks to me like the cap is right under the metal reinforcing bar on the side of the grip, which would make that operation tougher.
Anyway, I'm pleased as punch.
If there's interest, I will post pictures, and my solution to the "tall cap" problem.