[MondoMor]

I received my new Type-R last week and I've been dying to try my Scenario Dreams Dragun TES board in it. My T-board is an older style (pre Ver. C), so it draws more power when "off" than the newer T-boards.

With a tiny exception, it works perfectly.

The screw holes line up exactly, and the two buttons on the T-board line up perfectly with the two holes in the grip. On the Type-R, one of the holes is for the LED while the other is for the power/mode button. The T-board uses both holes for buttons. This means I'll either have to drill a hole in the grip to see the LED, or maybe move the LED elsewhere.

I've plugged the solenoid into the "SOL" plug, the trigger into the "Trig" plug, and the eyes into the eye plug. What surprised me is that the stock eye connector plugs right into the board and works. I have removed the battery connector from the T-board in a previous experiment with it, but I believe the Type-R battery plug will also plug right into the T-board's battery connector.

The T-board defaults to break-beam eyes, and since the Type-R comes with bounce-beam eyes, the T-board has to be switched to Bounce-Beam mode.

WARNING: The wires from the Type-R solenoid are thick copper wire - they are NOT stranded and will therefore break if you bend them excessively. I'm probably going to replace the solenoid wires with stranded versions because I know I'll have this thing apart a whole lot.

I didn't expect a lot of difference. The stock board was set to minimum debounce, with 15bps cap and eyes off. It really didn't like having the trigger walked. The T-board made me sound much more like a pro. The stock trigger is VERY floppy side-to-side, and at first I thought this was the cause of my inability to get very many cps out of the gun. The difference in cps between the stock board and the T-board is like night and day.

So what's the tiny exception? There's a large capacitor in the middle of the board which is about 1/16" too tall for the grips. Considering this gun didn't exist when the board was designed, that's not a fault by any means. I'll just have to de-solder it and replace it with a surface-mount cap or a lower-profile one. You can see the cap on this page - it's the tallish round thing near the top button. I think this is the capacitor for the on-board regulator, so it's necessary and shouldn't be removed completely.

It may be possible to drill out the grip a little to make room for the cap, but it looks to me like the cap is right under the metal reinforcing bar on the side of the grip, which would make that operation tougher.

Anyway, I'm pleased as punch.

If there's interest, I will post pictures, and my solution to the "tall cap" problem.

[XxAltecxX]

Have you thought about just putting the cap on wires so you can put it somewere else? Be easyer, and safer (Since you don't have to worry about putting the wrong cap in it).

[MondoMor]

Originally Posted by XxAltecxX

Have you thought about just putting the cap on wires so you can put it somewere else?

That's an option, but my electronics experience makes me very reluctant to add any lead length to capacitors (even when they're paralleled with a Tantalum like this one). It's probably an irrational compulsion. Also, the cap is "fat" enough that it might not fit anywhere nearby.

However, I may be able to use two smaller caps in parallel, and put one under the board, and one on top. There's a decent amount of distance between the bottom side of the board and the right side grip half.

I've got a couple of PC motherboards at work that I scavenge parts from - there ought to be some nice high-density, low ESR caps on one of those.

[fishkid91]

is there and chance a wrath board would fit

[MondoMor]

Originally Posted by fishkid91

is there and chance a wrath board would fit

That I don't know. The picture on the Scenario Dreams site makes the Wrath and T1 boards look identical, but someone more knowledgeable will have to answer that one.

You could always email or PM Damon and get the answer straight from The Man.

[fishkid91]

i have asked him before and he said it would perfectly.
b/c the Type R was doing to be the diablo Reaper basicly a cheaper wrath

it's just confusing that you sait the torid x fit

[MondoMor]

Originally Posted by fishkid91

it's just confusing that you sait the torid x fit

I did? If so, I didn't mean it. I'm talking about the Dragun "The One" board. Also known as a "T1".

I must say, "The One" is one of the worst names ever. It's like a marketing committee decided to come up with the most confusing name possible.

[ReiGn52]

This is a nice finding seeing that I also have been looking for a new board for my Type R. Someone told me scenario dreams was designing a board for the R3 and Type R though so maybe it would be better to hold off for that one?

[geeser]

I put a R15 board with LCD screen in my type R. Had it working perfectly with the eyes off. I am going to be drilling out the body for a set of break beam eyes and my type R should be great.

[MondoMor]

Originally Posted by geeser

I am going to be drilling out the body for a set of break beam eyes and my type R should be great.

Please post pics when that's done. I have a notion of doing it myself.

I've completed the mods. The buttons will need to be shortened a little bit - it's possible to accidentally press one while gripping the marker tightly. 1/16" ought to do it.

And the capacitor replacement wasn't as simple as I'd hoped.


Here's some pics of the modified board:


You can see where the capacitor used to be, right behind SW1, and to the left of the yellow capacitor.



The new Surface Mount capacitor, soldered to one of the pads for C3 (the cap I removed) and one of the pads for C2 (the yellow capacitor).




Doing surface Mount soldering requires a really good soldering iron. So this modification isn't really all that helpful to most.

It'd be better to wait and see what Damon comes out with for the Rex guns.

[assassinationACI]

Techinically you have a TES t-board not a T1 T-board. T1 t-boards dont have capacitators but TES t-boards do. Take a TES t-board and desolder the cap. and now you have a T1 board, so its all the same. the Wrath t-board will fit better on the type-r compared to dragun t-boards. Ver.C T-boards save your settings so you dont need to set it to bounce each time you turn it on. On the site, the picture is the same on the TES t-board and T1 t-board. go to the store, and you can see the real T1 T-board.

[MondoMor]

Originally Posted by assassinationACI

Techinically you have a TES t-board not a T1 T-board.

True. Having never held or seen either up close, I got 'em confused. Thanks for clearing up my ignorance.

When you say "cap" you mean the large capacitor just to the left in the pictures, correct? I just don't want people thinking a true T1 board does not have the little capacitor I had to remove - both a TES and T1 board will have to be modified to fit, yes?