Guide Section 3: Electro-Mags - PbNation
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Old 07-05-2006, 12:49 AM #1
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Guide Section 3: Electro-Mags

Section 3: Electromags

There are many ways to convert a Mag into an electro.
1.E-mag lowers
2.Logic UMF (Ultimate Mag Frame)
4.Hyper/boyaa frames
5.Spydermag Conversions
7.m-Q Valved Mag

1.E-Mag lowers

What this is, is basically taking the frame and battery pack from an E-mag and putting it on your existing mag.

What you will need:
1. E-mag battery pack (the front thing that looks like a big foregrip)
2. E-mag gripframe
3. New on/off pin
4. X-Valve or an E-mag Valve (classic valves can only keep up to 15bps, before having shootdown)

If you want it to go even faster and have even more modes Predator has come out with an E-mag board.


The thread is kind of long, but you can get the jist of it starting where the link sends you.

Also, two videos of BigEvil-AO messing around with Xmod'd Xmags.
(on Jayloo, so you might have to log-in)

Go to Lornecash's new websight. All of the Xmod info is there, incuding downloads for the Xmod software, manual, and even AGD software.

Arstron has also modded a Dragun T-Board to fit his E-Mag.


E-Mag lowers will cost around $250 - $400 if you buy everything used.
(videos 1,2,and 5 are E-mags vids on

(E-Mag, picture taken from

2. Logic UMF Frame

A bolt on Electro Pneumatic frame for the AGD Automag.
It uses air to actuate the existing sear, instead of a giant pancake
solenoid. The result is increased reliability, greatly increased battery
life, and a system that requires less overall tuning (the LPR is set from
us, and you never need to touch it). The system eliminates the need to
tune the ULT (as you must use a stock EMag On/Off), and if you have us install
the eyes, you can switch back to a LVL 7 bolt, eliminating the need to
tune the LVL X, and adding back some air efficiency to boot.

We can do the eye installs, or we will have a list of 'smiths who are able
and willing to do the work we can't fit into our schedule. Of course you
perfectly welcome to do the eye installs yourself. The components will be
included with the kit.

Predator Board AFA 5.0 (or newer)
Eye Components included (You build the harness and do the eye install)
Roller Bearing Trigger
Adjustable switch contact and post travel, fixed forward stop
Magnetic trigger return
DM5 Grips
Huge trigger guard
Integrated Dovetail Rail
Includes VA that is already tapped for the LPR
Does not use the ULT
(you must use the stock Emag on/off included with the kit)
Uses one 9V battery

Works with RTP, EMag, and Karta Rail, as well as any RTP type rail
(like most of what Rogue sells).
Works with ULE body, Karta Body, and any body cut from a slug.
(our new eye covers will only work with the ULE bodies. All others
get Eblade covers or goop at the customers discretion.)

Will not work with twist lock bodies.

It can be made to work with classic rails, but custom work will be
involved (IE its no longer just a bolt on thing).

Dry Firing (sound graphed at 18 bps)

Shooting Paint (sound graphed at 20 bps)

(picture, movies, and description from

These frames are $450


These can be purchased from

90* Frame
Duel Break Beam eyes
Unlimited bps with eyes on
MROF 45 BPS with eyes off
Xvalve with ULE trigger kit installed
ULE body milled with eyes installed. Predator board with different modes of fire and all settings done by trigger
Power On/Off
Ripper Trigger mod

(picture and specs from

This will cost you $900 for the whole gun.

Odds are after he finishes all his current orders Devil Mags will be discontinued.

4.Hyper/Boyaa Frames

The Hyperframe replaces the trigger rod linking the trigger and sear with a microswitch to sense trigger pulls, control electronics, and an electromagnetic solenoid to move the sear. When electricity is run through it, a magnetic field is generated, which draws a piece of iron closer to it. The Hyperframe's solenoid is situated so that when it is actuated, it moves the Automag's sear, releasing the bolt, and closing the on/off valve. Hyperframes come in two styles, 13bps and 20pbs. I know very little about boyaa frames. They are both discontinued, and used will cost from $150-$200.

The Hypermag FAQ on AO: me

Video 3 and 4 are hyperframed Mags.

(top Mag has a hyperframe, it is owned by Jaan of PBN)
(Hypermag belonging to Sk8ermog of AO)

Boo-Yahh frame:

5.Spydermag conversions

These are a way to mod either the sears of the Mag and Spyder to work torether, or reversing the Solenoid in the Spyder frame.

Sear Mod by tonybhall of PBN:

Reverse Noid by Arstron:

(Video of Astron's Dragun-Mag)

luke-AO made his own that used a nice happy medium of sear/noid modding.

"I didn’t care for the approach for the 2 different conversions (flipped ‘noid or the sear mod) that are currently being done. So I came up with a completely different idea for the conversion. No offence to anyone that has done them before me, because the guys I’ve seen doing the conversions are using drills and dremmel’s, that in itself deserves respect.

Like I said, my approach was considerably different. What I did was a sear mod, flipped ‘noid with a custom sear tripper to trip the Mag sear at the on/off.

In a nut shell the frame mounts via the ESP rear frame hole and a new one is drilled up front. The Mag sear trigger rod arm is completely removed at the base of the sear. The ESP solenoid is flipped around in the frame. Then a custom sear tripper is fitted in the back side of the frame that allows the Mag sear to be tripped directly under the on/off pin.

At this time, the mod looks suitable for Mags running an ULE on/off (trigger) and a RT Pro style rail. The “sear tripper” is adjustable which will help with the conversion using different rails with the exception of the original AM/MM rails; they are too narrow for the ESP frame."

Luke is now offering a spydermag conversion for a decent amount of money through his website

(pictures, and descriptions from luke-AO and his site,

These won't cost much to make if you have the right tools, and will shoot as fast a the Spyder frame you put on it. These can be T-Boarded and drilled from eyes. (

6. iMag

The iMag uses an ION board and noid to trip a Mag's sear. It was first done by Nicad and Scott Hudnall.

(Pictures of Scott Hudnall's mod)
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Old 07-05-2006, 12:50 AM #2
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7.M-q valve

The m-q valve is currently out for cockers. Odds are it will never come out for Mags because of the lack of interest there would be. If it did come out for the mag it would work similarly to the cocker version, and allow the mag to have all mechanical components bypassed. This would mean being able to E-Blade a mag with no modification.


There are always people trying new things with mags, including people making them elecrto.

The second I found on It is known as "The Frankenmag"

Originally Posted by EZ-MAG (AO)
I think my original thoughts about this project came from looking at autocockers. I just decided that it would be really cool to have an air ram actuated electrically controlled mag. I used a Z-grip because it gave me the most room in the back to work with. All the componentsI used, I got from work. I started with a bafricated banner photoeye that looks for a bolt that I added to the back of the trigger. It opens an electric solenoid Mac valve which in turn sends low pressure air from a seperate reg. to the air ram. I needed at least 22-30volts DC to operate the electrics. I thought about a seperate battery pack, but couldn't find a good location. So I added a battery in series to the hopper. Giving me 27volts from the hopper but still allowing it to work normally.
Here is a little more detail on the workings of the EZ-MAG
I started with a Banner fiber optic sensor (SM312F) with a bafricated fiber cable, meaning it starts as 2 fibers and combines into 1 and reflects off whatever you are trying to sense. The output from that sensor, triggered by a bolt attached to the back of the trigger itself, turns on a Mac valve, model 35A-AAA=DFBJ-1KD 24 VDC. The air coming out of this valve goes directly to an air cylinder, which I don't have a number for but its about 3.5 inches long and about 5/8 inch in diameter, a shorter stroke cylinder would be fine. The supply air for the whole thing comes from a "T" off the line from the tank that is regulated by an SMC reg, part number NAR2000-NO2. I drilled a hole in the back of the Z-grip for an M-6 bolt to slide through. It is connected to the sear by an oval shaped washer sliped over the bottom of the sear and welded to the bolt. The bolt comes out the back of the frame a little over an inch and is attached to the air cylinder with cross link made from thin aluminum bar. The power comes from the hopper that I added a third 9Volt battery to, to get enough voltage, 27volts. I just tied a small headphone style plug into one side of the 2 existing batts and came off the other side and connected the third in series and back to the plug. I also ended up putting a proximity switch on the safety, because I found that if the electrics were left on when the safety was off for mechanical mode it would fire once by the sensor and once mechanically. The resulting kickback of the sear would push the bolt back across the sensor and if I kept a little pressure on the trigger it would just cycle back and forth making it full auto.

Warbeak2099 is the owner/creator of the "Arachnamag" It's basically a spydermag in an Vert Frame.

The "Arachnamag" was in spired by Joni's mod on AO (SWE joni on PBN)

Shooting paint. Yes it's chopping. 6 months old paint that's been sitting in the open,a lvl10 set for reballs and old batteries in the egg = blender.


No bounce what so ever:

"the electrician" on AO not only made a pneumag, but an electro pneumatic frame.

BigEvil also made a similar Electro-Mag

(BigEvil's custom Electro-pneumatic Mag)

temps (AO) has built an automag with a shcoker frame on it. It uses a solenoid to control an mpa-3 ram to push the sear

The P-mag built by Dager of PBN

Box-less version


(Plunger built by Thorpedo of PBN)

End of section 3.

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Old 07-05-2006, 12:52 AM #3
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mine for later
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Old 07-05-2006, 12:53 AM #4
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mine for later also
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Old 09-19-2006, 07:09 PM #5
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hey i know the owner of the devil mag!!!
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