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Old 06-16-2006, 10:24 PM #64
tomrule007
 
 
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I got 2 questions.
1. What size should I bore the barrel hole for a cocker barrel on a merlin body. I plan on buying the cocker barrel tap set from ASP. I looked up the tap size and it says use 57/64 drill but i wanted to double check before i actually did it.

2. All the cocker tap sizes listed on the front page (valve locking nut, detent, IVG...) will they work after I get the body annodized? I know the barrel tap takes into count the anno but the rest of the taps seem to ignore it. Also want to know the same thing for the grip frame screws 10-32 i believe.
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Old 06-16-2006, 11:24 PM #65
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Using a 57/64" hole (I would definitely bore, not drill) would give you a 72% thread which is right around where you want to be (in the 75% area). If you want to up that a little bit, just make a smaller hole. Here's a good calculator that will do all the thinking for you: http://www.newmantools.com/tapdrill.htm#callink The thing you just have to watch for is that concentricity is a must for the bore/barrel threads. Try to do all the bores and threading all in one setup to ensure concentricity.

All the rest of the threads (including grip frame) should be fine after anodizing. If you want to be careful about it, use an H3 or so thread limit and that should allow you plenty for the anodizing thickness (only about 0.0015" thick for Type I anyways).
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Old 06-17-2006, 02:24 PM #66
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When I've cut for barrel threads, I actually just bore out .875" to a depth of 1.24" and then ream (I ground the end of my .875" reamer, as the chamfer on the end was a little larger than I wanted). I then run the tap right through to my needed depth (which yields a very full thread profile - around 96%) and follow up with a bottoming tap.

Since this method needs a lot of torque, I used the taps right in my Tree mill (with a collet, mind you - I wouldn't trust a tap that big taking such a large cut in a chuck). Hose it down with cutting fluid before the cut, and the Tree powers through it like butter. I turn the bottoming tap by hand with a wrench, but leave it set up in the mill so I can use the spindle to help center the tap.
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Old 06-28-2006, 12:33 PM #67
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whats the thread size for an angel lcd's hammer?
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Old 06-28-2006, 12:43 PM #68
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M5x0.8mm
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Old 06-28-2006, 12:50 PM #69
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if you dont mind me asking, what size bit do i drill with?
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Old 06-28-2006, 04:20 PM #70
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Also, if anybody is still adding to the first listing, cocker rams, not the shaft the actual bodies where they screw into the block are 5/16-24.
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Old 06-28-2006, 09:00 PM #71
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Anyone know the barb threads for the Race Frame noids? If they're 10-32, then I'm set, if not, where could I find teh correct ones. (I'll look more for it)

Thanks,
David
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Old 06-29-2006, 02:53 AM #72
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The older noids are 10-32 threaded. The new ones are M3x0.5.
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Old 06-30-2006, 04:11 AM #73
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Muchos gracias.
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Old 07-13-2006, 09:50 AM #74
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wat size thread is an angel 4 flied feedneck?
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Old 07-13-2006, 12:31 PM #75
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As far as I know they didn't changed the Feedneck threading (M21x0.75). The didn't actually changed the barrel threading (M24x2.0), as the length of the unthreaded part. This is because it was too long and was the limiting facto in shortening the marker. Apparently they did it again with the Angel 1.
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Old 07-18-2006, 01:31 PM #76
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Hey does anyone know the threads on the barbs of an eblade and autococker lpr as well as what OD and ID the cocker hoses are?
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Old 07-18-2006, 07:04 PM #77
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The cocker lpr hose is ID 1/16 and OD 1/8 polyurethane (urethane). The LPR threading (the one that screws in the front block) is 1/8 NPT. The thread of the barbs depends on the LPR sometimes 6-32, sometimes 5-40, sometimes 10-32. I ignore the Eblade barbs threading, but I wouldn't rule an M3 or M5, since solenoids are usually so.
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Old 08-04-2006, 10:19 PM #78
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what threads are for the lpr block on a 2k5+ timmy?

edit: for the set screw
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Old 08-14-2006, 12:06 AM #79
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Anyone know what the thread size for an 03 Dye LCD Matrix eye carrier screw is?
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Old 08-16-2006, 01:59 PM #80
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Ion Frame

Hi I have an Ion Trigger frame that was stripped by the the front banjo fittings right above the reg. any idea on tap sizes if it can be fixed at all. I've tried 2 other deals to buy a new frame and they went sour. So I was trying to figure out another alternative to fix it without paying too much.
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Old 09-06-2006, 03:54 PM #81
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anybody know the information on a phantom stock class feed screw?
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Old 09-06-2006, 04:25 PM #82
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robbieisurfriend - 8-32 x 5/8" SHCP stainless steel
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Old 09-06-2006, 04:27 PM #83
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thanks alot
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Old 09-19-2006, 10:23 PM #84
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anyone know the thread for macroline and stainless steel fittings for bottom lines
and such?
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