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Old 06-15-2006, 10:28 PM #1
m_dogg2021
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/\Every thing you ever needed to know about a halo thread!/\

Hello there welcome to my halo help/tech/mod/info thread heres how I will do this:

First before anything if you need your halo fixed or dont know how a mod works then PM me and I will fix your halo and or mod it for a fee. Pm me for details


Post #1 = halo tech info, whats wrong with your halo and some mods

Post #2 = More mods

Post #3 = More mods

Post #4 = More mods

Post #5 = More mods and the halo compair post so go to post #5 if you want to know what batteries you should use

Post #6 = .......

Post #7 = .......

Post #8 = .......

Now the first things you need to know. READ THESE 5 THINGS BEFORE YOU POST!!!!

First:
before you look at anything if you have a halo and you turn it on and it spins then it spin slower then back to normal there's nothing wrong with your halo that's normal the halo is just saving battery power. On the gun it will work just fine but if it doesn't then there is an issue with the halo.

Second:
Empire reloader b shells will fit a halo and vice verse.

Third:
Please check your batteries before you do anything and panic.

Forth:
If your halo blinks red every other two seconds the halo is just telling you to change the batteries. This doesn't mean go and do that, your halo is just saying that the batteries are low and need changed in the near future. But on the other hand some times the halo board will just lie and even with new batteries it still will blink. To me that just means the halo is on if your halo is like that.

Fifth:
No matter how many high performance parts you put on your loader or sports car, if you keep using cheap, crap fuel it will not perform best. Batteries are fuel. The better the fuel, the more speed. So buy bone and your halo will run like a beast out of hell.


------------------------------HALO V35 SETINGS-----------------------------

V35 Manual

hold in the on/off button till it flashes then click the button once to switch settings here's what the flashes mean:
1 = 15
2 = 17
3 = 22
4 = 25
5 = 30
6 = 35
Its very simple and every time you turn on the halo you it will flash the setting but pull the battery out and it will return to stock #3 setting.


How to take apart you halo
http://www.shocktechusa.com/pages/lo...cc_kit_VQT.htm



------------------------------Issue #1-----------------------------
- My halos board is blinking red and green

Possible ways to fix the issue:
- The batteries are low
- The eyes are dirty or dead
- The board is dieing
- The eyes and motor/battery connectors are in wrong, the correct way is



------------------------------Issue #2-----------------------------
- My halo will not feed any more

Possible ways to fix the issue:
- Your halo eyes are dead or are dirty
- The batteries are dead
- The board is fried
- The halo drive belt has come off
- The motor is dead
- The drive cone is broken

------------------------------Issue #3-----------------------------
- My halo is very slow

Possible ways to fix the issue:
- low batteries
- The halos bearings need lubed
- The motor is dieing
- The halo belt pulley pin isn't seated right

------------------------------Issue #4-----------------------------
- My halo is jamming like crazy

Possible ways to fix the issue:
- low batteries
- The motor is dieing
- The eyes are dirty or dead
- The anti jam beads need removed (it works on some halo IDK why)

------------------------------Issue #5-----------------------------
- My halo sound funny (grinding or just loud)

Possible ways to fix the issue:
(just loud)
- The motor isn't sitting right in the halo
- its just a loud halo if anything happens then look below\/
(grinding)
- The halos bearings need lubed
- The main shaft has been bent and need replaced
- The halos belt pulley pin is not seated correctly

------------------------------Issue #6-----------------------------
- My halo has feeding gaps

Possible ways to fix the issue:
- The halo drive spring is stretched (here is what a good spring looks like:
- The batteries are dieing
- The halos eyes are dirty
- The Motor is dieing
- The motor wire is broken or fared

------------------------------Issue #7-----------------------------
- My halo keeps running even if I stopped shooting

Possible ways to fix the issue:
- The halos feedneck is cut so the eyes cant see the ball
- The eyes are dead or very dirty
- The eye wires are broken

Here is a really cool site my buddy found on all you need to know about a halo and he and I think its a nice add to this thread

author : David Liu

http://www.dcltech.com/haloreportv12.pdf


I ran out of room in the halo mods post so ill do this one here

--------------------HOW TO DYE YOUR SHELLS-------------------
Why type it when you can find a dude that has done this.

Here is a thread on all you need to know about dyeing shells.

Thread made by harpo568 so I take non of the props on this.

http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=452598

and A must see if you want to upgread your halo:
www.dueydogpaintball.com some of the best rip drive knobs i have ever seen! and the best packs.


------------------THE ULTIMATE HALO-----------------

I think this the the only way to get you to mod your halo with out screwing it up for good or doing to many mods to your halo. This guide will tell you how to mod you halo so it will be the most reliable halo without any issues or failures.

here are the mods you need to do
- Rip your halo (you never know when you might jam)
- Buy a bone pack (cuts you halos battery weight by 50% and they are only $55 from www.DueydogPaintball.com)
- Buy A new delrin cone (you will never brake them and its only $11 from http://www.firstendeavorpaintball.com)

That's it 3 things and your halo will be the best and most reliable halo out there. but you have to remember this:

For more info and how it works comepared to other batteries go here
www.DueydogPaintball.com

here's how you make the rip




Mod made by M_dogg2021

Well if you can see in my feedback I have done and sold rip drive in the past so why not tell every one how I did it.

---- tools and parts you need to do this mod:------
- Drill press (this really helps but you can free hand it with a drill. 100 -$500)
- #4 -40 screws (very easy to find any hardware store $2 for 10 screws)
- Anything you want to put on the end of the rip drive Or a AWEOSME rip knob from www.DueydogPaintball.com
- files ($20 from Home Depot will give you a nice set)
- Green tipped 1' 1/4 square stock (about $2 at Home Depot)
- #4 -40 tap (Home Depot again $2 I think and it comes with a drill bit)
- #4 washers (Home Depot $2 for like 20 of them)

After you have all of those parts you can start off by cutting the 1' square stock in to 2" pieces. Then take the stock main shaft out and mark on the 2" piece of square stock where the little e-clip grooves are then there are two way to do this ether and file the little grooves in the square stock by hand or put the 2" square stock in the chuck of the drill press and use the file to cut the grooves. Now drill a hole in the top of the 2" piece of square stock and tap it with the #4 -40 tap. When you have found the right thing you want on your halo drill a 1/4 hole in the top of the thing you have chosen and the stick it on the 2" square stock. Drill a hole in the piece and square stock so the hole is in the same place. Tap the bottom hole with your #4 -40 tap and then stick the thing on the end of the square stock and screw it in place. To install the rip go to: http://www.odysseypaintball.com/ripkit.html
congratulations! you have made a custom halo rip drive. Here is what you work should look like:

and then pics of the bone rips


Or if you more of cheap *** then you can do this mod:

Mod made by:ChEeSeMaStA18


Parts you need:
MT dew cap (or any)
screw driver (flat head)
and a hammer

Ok, so you take everything off your rip drive. Next you take your screwdriver
and put it in the middle of the cap. Kinda make an outline of the rip pole. Now
pound the **** outta it till you got a hole that fits firmly on your rip and make sure
it doesn't wobble or come loose and is centered.
Pic:
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Last edited by m_dogg2021 : 07-18-2007 at 11:48 PM.
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Old 06-15-2006, 10:28 PM #2
m_dogg2021
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----------------------------BLUE BUTTON MOD-------------------------


Mod made by M_dogg2021 and was inspired by CoolDrMoney21


Ok I have made this mod to help with the jamming that the halo is plagued with.
As you my or my not know when the halo jams it pulses 3 times then flashes red and green well with this mod you can cut the + side to the motor so the board will think the jam is clear and will not flash so no turning on or off the board. Also when you flip the switch it spins the cone backwards and clear the jam much like the pulse does or like the cheetah board.

-----Parts your need-----

- Pair of wire stripers (you should have these if not look at radio shack)
- Some small gauge wire (anything really)
- Two-way on/off switch (here.)
- Solder and Soldering iron (anywhere from $20 - $200)
- Heat shrink
- Skill with those tools

Ok this should be an easy mod to do but you need to know how to solder and how to read. First you need to take out the motor and battery harness.
Second well there’s no other way to say this but cut all of the wires in half.
Now since your using a 6-pin switch this should make since. Now with the switch you should make six about 6” piece’s of wire, strip the ends and solder them to the switch like so (the color bar on the side):

Now that the leads are solder to the switch you should slip a ” piece of heat shrink on each wire and use your solder iron to heat up the heat shrink so it will shrink.
You should put a lil ” pieces of heat shrink on each wire then solder the halos wiring harness to the switch like so:

Make sure your solder them on the right way or this mod is for nothing. Now use your solder iron and shrink the heat shrink so all open wires are covered. Test the mod flip the switch so when you connect the battery the motor doesn’t spin and then turn on the halo if it run then flip the switch the other way if the cone spin’s in reverse then the mod work if it doesn’t then you have done something wrong.

Now Find a place to put the switch, it’s a nice sized switch so the only place I could find right here:

Drill a ” hole for the switch to fit through.

DONE!!!
Now just so I dont see this question again this mod will make your cone run REALLY REALLY fast in revirse, this is good it means you madet he mod the correct way. I made this mod so fast because you only need to flip the switch back and forth as fast as you can (you cant flip it faster then the halo) This why your jam will be clear in under 2 sec so you can play the best and fastes you can.


--------------------GHETTO SPEED WHEEL MOD-------------------

Mod made by the one and only flight cancled so give him all of the props for this one.

Ok just finished this so pics will be up soon:

BPS THIS WILL GIVE YOU: about 4 -5 BPS

Materials:
1/4 ID X 3/8 OD PVC (home depot in Plumbing ask someone in there for help if you cant find it)
A drill with a quarter inch bit (a whole bit kit helps)
A dremel with a round diamond debarring bit
A hammer

Directions:
Clamp the PVC in place about 3" down so that the peice that you will be using is not clamped/deformed. Take a 1/4" drill bit and drill out the inside of one of the ends on the PVC pipe about 1/4". Cut about a 1/2" peice off of the end of the PVC that you have just drilled out. Disassemble your halo and get to the motor. Take the motor and put the lil 1/2 peice on the end of the motor over the stock pulley. If the peice of PVC isn't going on with ease then take a hammer and lightly tap it in place so the bottom of the 1/2" peice of PVC is about flush with the stock pulley.

Now take your motor and plug it into the halo board and connect the battery. Turn on the halo and take the dremel with the diamond debarring bit and lightly touch it to the peice of PVC witch is on the motor so you can cut a nice lil groove for the halo belt to fit on. DONE!



------------------MAGNETIC LID MOD-----------------

Mod made by M_dogg2021

This mod is for those of you who have lost your halo lid spring and cant find a new one or just want something different.

----------Tools and parts you need for this mod:----------
- jbweld or super glue (I like jb kwik weld it sets in 5-10 min for $2 -$3 from Wall-Mart)
- Mini 1/4 rare earth magnets (http://www.dueydogpaintball.com/)
- Files (Home Depot $2 or $10 for a set)


We first start with the lid file down one of the little ridges on the front(left or right side ether one). Now we will glue one of the 2 magnets on the shell glue the magnet in the little space where the lid neck fits on one side of the shell so you can still take the halo apart. Glue the other magnet on the lids neck so the magnets line up and attract make sure that the magnets are facing the correct way and not opest so the mod will to work. Let the glue dry and then put back together the halo and your done. here are some pics of what this should look like.



------------------MY BATTERIES ARE DEAD MOD-----------------

Mod made by M_dogg2021

Well I think the title says it all this mod will stop your halo from eating battery power when your not using it. Some of you may know and some of you don't know that your halo is draining your batteries even if your not using it or its not on. Yes that halo is draining it slowly and some of you don't even know about it but if you let your halo sit for like a month or so the halos battery will be dead. so here is the mod!


----------Tools and parts you need for this mod:----------
- Solder iron (do I even need to tell you where to get one now?)
- Clipper pliers (Home Depot $5)
- Drill and bit set (you have one know it)
- on/off switch (Radio Shack $5)
- A bran (priceless)

We start by taking your halo apart and getting out the motor with the harness. Take the end with the 9V connector and cut the red wire on it about 1" from the connector. Solder on the on/off switch and make sure its nice and flat because there is very little room in the battery compartment. Drill a hole the size of the on/off switch and stick the on/off switch in the hole. Use the nut from the switch and tighten it down till the switch is nice and snug with the halos shell. YAY! your done with the mod. Here is what the switch should look like:
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Last edited by m_dogg2021 : 11-22-2007 at 08:46 PM.
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Old 06-15-2006, 10:29 PM #3
m_dogg2021
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---------------How to preload your cone spring-------


Make sure that your spring cup is in good condition and the tab is not broken. Now set the spring in the spring cup like so:
Take the cone and line up the tab on the cone with the springs tail. twist the cone until you hit the spring cups tap. slowly pick up on the cone until the cones tab with the springs tail on it clears the spring cups tab. here is what it should look like(the red mark is the spring cups tab this is the under side of the cone)


--------------increase off-the-gate halo speed mod-------------

Ok I just figured this out and wanted to share. all you need is a single screw and a screw driver. This mod takes the stock cone and allows you to double wind the spring without adding too much tension.

all you have to do is remove the cone and put a screw opposite the stopper tab. I used an over sized screw and dremeled off the end, but that really isn't necessary. then double wind the spring being sure that the spring is resting on the screw, not the stock tab.

try it, if you don't like it just take out the screw and you are left with an indestructible spring tab.

edit: found that the double wind, VL allstars paint, and timmy detentes are a good recipe for soup so use the stock tension and a half turn if you are doing about the same. otherwise this is a dream, very good with reloader Bs. enjoy
Pic:




--------------DUAL 9V BATTERY MOD-------------

Yes this is how the mod gos together so don't ask why do I connect the reds to the black and vise verse. If you do it as I tell you then there wont be any issues.

This is a very easy mod to so its very hard to screw up.

There has been some cases where this mod has fryed a board but I have had nothing wrong so far. I don't know what the dude did to this mod to fry his board all I know is he did. If you fallow the instructions as I made them then you shouldn't have any issues with this mod.


--------------Parts you need--------------
- Three 9v connectors (radio shack $5 for 5)
- Heat shrink (radio shack or just use electrical tape)
- solder iron (maybe but if your don't know how to then just skip this)


Cut the heat shrink into two 1 1/2" pieces. Slip the 1 1/2" heat shrinks on one of the connectors. wire up the the connectors like so\/ making sure that the top one has the heat shrink on it.

Solder the connections together. Slip the heat shrink over the newly solder connections. Use your soldering iron and heat up the heat shrink so it gets smaller. DONE!

The other way to do this is just twist the wires together and tape them up but this is the cheap and easy way and most of the time it will come undone.

Test this in your halo to see if you have done a good job if it works then you are good if it doesn't then redo the mod.



------------------XMODS MOTOR MOD------------------

Mod made by I waste Paint

I HAVE NOT TESTED THIS MOD WITH THE CHEETAH BOARD YET

The Xmods motor is faster than the Hyper Dash 2 motor, but getting the motor to work with the halo takes more time and is harder to do than the Hyper Dash 2.

Also, I just want to say the 4 motor in the pack are all the same. The only thing that makes them different is the gears that are on them.

And some of the props go to Skyle, he helped me out with this.

- BPS this mod will give you: Around 10

----------Tools and parts you need for this mod----------
- XMODS Stage 2 Motor (url=http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2049791&cp=&origkw=xmods+motor &kw=xmods+motor&parentPage=search]Radio Shack[/url])
- Solder iron
- Solder (Radio Shack)
- Hammer
- Vice
- Punch
- Drift Punch (It has a flat bottom, Home Depot)

Before you do anything to the stock motor, go ahead and cut of the wiring harness (what connects the motor to the board and the battery).
Picture of the wiring harness:


First, you need to switch the gear on the Xmods motor with the gear on the stock motor. I found that the gears on the Xmods motor are a real P.I.T.A. to get off. Hit the shaft with the drift punch and hammer. This only worked on one of the motors for me, I ended up crushing the gear in the vice and then smashing what was left of it with a hammer until the gear broke apart. If you decide to smash the hell out of it, you need to be careful to not bend the shaft.



Now you need to get the stock motor gear of the stock motor. Take the stock motor and clamp the gear on the motor in the vise. Punch out the motor shaft with your hammer and punch. Put the Xmods motor horizontally in the vice with the gear on aligned with the shaft. Tighten the vice until the top of the gear is flush with the top of the shaft.




Next, you need to do some soldering. There is a joint on both sides of the motors. Theses joints get in the way when you try to put the motor in the Halo. Using your solder iron and solder, move the joints to the front of the motor. After they cool, you need to solder the wiring harness onto the Xmods motor. You have to reverse the polarity of the wires though, which means you solder the red of the wiring harness to the black of the motor and the white of the wiring harness to the red of the motor. If you do it the opposite way, the motor will spin in the wrong direction. The motor should spin counter clockwise.



It should look like this when your done.



Just put your halo back together and test it to make sure you did everything right.

As of I right now, I'm not doing this for money, I have sold one motor I did, but this isn't a real easy mod, and it takes up a lot of time.


------------------ PS/2 halo back plate mod! ------------------

Mod made bySleePWalK
pic Courtesy of Fett 26



This mod is mostly Aesthetic. Makes it a little easier to turn the halo on and off.

-----------What you will need-----------
- Ps2 (or Ps) Controller Button (Square, Circle, Triangle, X)
- Bench grinder (or anything to be able to grind the plastic down)
- Sand paper
- Super Glue
- Power drill
- Drill bit set
- Sharpie marker or anything like it

Start off by take the ps2 button and grinding the end without the symbol on it. Grind it until it is around of an inch (grinding it more than that is fine, it’s up to you. Just make sure you grind it enough, so that when you place the ps2 button over the stock button on your board, it isn’t resting on the silver part that holds the button on the board or you wont be able to turn the halo on or off.) Next take the sand paper and sand off any flakes of plastic that may still be on the ps2 controller button. Next take the plastic screen that covers the board when it is in the halo mark it with a sharpie about the size of the PS2 button. Try to make the mark as aligned with the button as possible. Drill out the back plate on the mark making sure that the hole is a little bigger than the ps2 button so that it will not stick when pushing it down, should have some wiggle room. Take the sand paper and clean up the edges of the hole you just drilled. Next take the super glue and put a dab of it either inside the ps2 button or on the tip of the brown button on the board. Be sure not to use to much glue or it can seep out and glue your brown button on the board from not moving (thus making your halo not turn on or off). Wait 2-3 minutes after super gluing the 2 buttons together (if you have the quick drying stuff) Then place the screen over the board and slide back into your halo. Now you have successfully ps2 modded your halo.
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Last edited by m_dogg2021 : 06-03-2007 at 11:07 PM.
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Old 06-15-2006, 10:30 PM #4
m_dogg2021
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--------------------GHETTO ANTI JAM ROD MOD-------------------

Mod made by flight cancled hes almost beating me on how many mods there are in the thread

This mod was invented in a last minute fix before/ during a tourney if I remember right and was created in tandem with the out-of-the-gate speed mod. It is a replacement for the anti-jam beads, but could also be used if sized properly as a reball specific anti jam.

Materials:
A red stirrer, the same thing that you mix coffee/cocktails with. The single red straw type, not the brown and white double straw.

- A lighter
- Optional- sharpie
- A few paintballs -or reballs-
- A pair of scissors or a knife.
- Optional-Pliers

Directions:
Disassemble the halo. And put everything aside except the blue catch cup.
Bend the end of the stirrer over so that there is a small –three cm- overlap. Fold that already doubled over part in half and cram that little nub that you have created into the slot that the anti-jam goes into. You should now have the long end of the straw crossing the cup.
Cut the straw so that it just fits into the cup. Push the straw down into the slot as far as you can.
Put a paintball into the cup and feed it through to the straw.
Mark/Eyeball where the top of the ball is on the straw. With the lighter bend the straw down fourty-five degrees down.
Now mark/eyeball where the straw reaches the upper sloped part of the cone melt and bend the straw so that it rests against the cone on the far side of the top of the ball ramp/where the balls enter the feedneck.
Put a paintball into the cup and feed it through to the spring. Eyeball where the top of the ball is on the spring. Just past where the ball meets the spring bend the spring down fourty to fourty-five degrees. The ball should when passed under the spring be shoved against the wall of the cup.
Reassemble.

If you have any questions please ask I am always willing to help.

-------------------- INTELLIFEED HALO BOARD --------------------


---------- Items you need for this mod ----------

- Mini on/off switch (radio shack) -
- 5v DC relay board (radio shack) -
- Some wire (radio shack) -
- Solder iron (radio shack) -
- stock motor, motor wires and 9V connector (your halo)

Ok this mod is rather easy so try not to screw it up. I don't really even have to make
a step by step guide on how to make this because the pic is rather self explanatory
but I will any way just so you can do it right the first time.
Take the red motor wire and the red 9v connector wire and put them on the mini on/off
switch. Attach some more wire on the mini on/off switch and solder it together. Now take the
black 9V wire and the white motor wire and solder them together. Solder on the on/off switches wires
and the intellifeed cable. Put your halo back together and plug the intellifeed into a gun that
accepts it. Now the otehr way you do this for gun with out the intellifeed system is take some wire and run the leeds to your noid, simplely just splice the wire to your noid.







------------------GHETTO HALO SPEED FEED MOD-----------------



Made by who else flight cancled you can count on him to do this!

This is a really simple mod, the hardest part just may be finding the part you need in a hardware store.


-----Items you need for this mod-----
- Garbage Disposal Splash Guard (part number 784 475 or here)
- heavy duty scissors or shears

Put the guard onto the opening of the halo and notice how the lip on the bottom doesn't allow the guard to go all the way down by where the lid is. cut off a little bit of the lip so that the guard can sit uniformly on the opening. Be carefull as there is a little metal piece inside the guard to hold the circular shape.

Now that the guard is on notice that there is a star shaped pattern cut out with a hole in the center. extend the slits all the way to the rim of the halo.

Finally cut each of the "key stones" or whatever you want to call it between the slits in half. the cut should go just past the bend in the guard.

Done.

Notes:
For those that don't know you have to press the pod down to get the paint to load properly.

I am getting the same to better results then I heard with the real speed feed with feeding; aka the occasional ball or two not feeding. And better in terms of being able to shake a ball out; I have to work to get more then one out when I shake it.

pic of what yours should look like


No I will not do this for cash at this time I will however do all my mods for cash starting in september. Here is a cheap place to buy them in the mean time.
http://www.freewebs.com/dopyndave/home.html





------------------HALO PR MOD-----------------


I'm not a very big fan of this MOD but to some of you guys you may like it so do this mod at your own halos risk

- BPS you will get off of this mod: 8 - 13 more

---- tools and parts you need to do this mod:------
- Solder iron (Wall-Mart or Radio Shack any where from $5 to $200+)
- Wire (some nice small stuff around $5 -$10 from Radio Shack)
- Electrical tape (Home Depot about $5)
- On/off switch (Here)
- Drill and drill bit set (Home Depot of any hardware store)

Ok now that you have all of the parts you need you will need to get a nice sized piece of wire about 8 - 10" long and strip each end then solder one end to VR1 terminal then the other end to C8 terminal both are in the right top side of your halo board and are very easy to see. After the solder has cooled cut the 10" piece of wire that you have soldered on in half then solder on the on/off switch. This next part is all about what size on/off switch you have picked out for this so find the right size drill bit for the switch and drill a hole in the halo shell or back plate and then stick the switch through and use the nuts the came with it to make sure that the switch will not come out. Put the halo back together and test to see if it works and if it does then your done and you have done the PR mod with on/off switch. here is a pic of what it should look like (Halo courtesy of danoizms)



------------------Quiter halo mod-----------------

Mod made by Odius911

For as long as I have had my reloaderB, I have noticed that it was a lot louder than my brothers. I looked under the HALO FAQ's about my halo having a "grinding" noise... I had this problem but it was not just because I had a "loud halo," it was because something was actually grinding! After taking the hopper apart to install a speedfeed, and I set the motor aside and accidently turned it on, I realized that it was much quieter. When I installed the internals of the reloader, the louder grinding noise came back. I found that the top-pin on the motor of the halo was forced up against the inside of the shell. (here is a pic showing what part)

After a quick sandpaper job to the shell (barely even a few milimeters if that) and installing the guts of the halo again, the sound was gone for good. Here are the steps as follows:

Step 1: Take halo apart, and set aside left side shell for sanding

Step 2: Sand right beneath where the halo motor is inserted


Step 3: Put back together

DONE!


DISCLAIMER: This MIGHT not be the reason why your halo is making that "grinding" noise, but it was why MY halo was
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Old 06-15-2006, 10:31 PM #5
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------------------HALO LED MOD-----------------

Mod made by Kal Masri

Here's what I did:
I am not an electronics dude, but I talked to a friend of mine over the phone and he gave me some hints on what to look for. I tried a couple of things that he recommended but they did not work. On a whim, I was measuring the output voltage on a few components on the board, and I stumbled on the potentiometer (the one with the small screw in middle); it gave a 3 volt output when the hopper was on, and nothing when it was off. I was excited, so I soldered the LED directly to its adjacent terminals (see photos) and then filed a small hole on the plastic cover of the hopper so that the LED would stick out slightly from the surface (also see in photos). This works wonderfully well, so when the hopper is turned on, the LED I installed stays on whether the motor is spinning or not, and then turns off when the hopper is turned off. No more guessing whether the Halo is on or not anymore...is this awesome or what!

---Parts needed---
Standard soldering iron
Radio Shack red LED (item # 276-026), 3mm low intensity T-1 size, 3V, 15mA, 2.5 mcd

I shortened the legs of the LED to 7/16 of an inch (exactly 1 cm), and soldered them on. Then I bent them slightly so that the LED would not interfere with the sliding plastic cover that protects the board (I recommend that bending the legs of the LED downward be done before soldering to the potentiometer connector legs).

The only important caution worth mentioning here is that the LED has a leg that is shorter than the other, and this is the the cathode or minus terminal of the LED. This shorter leg must be the one that gets soldered to the top leg of the potentiometer (if one is holding the board straight and upright) not the bottom terminal. If this orientation is reversed, the LED may burn out. I will try to point this out on one of the photos if I can, if not, email me and I will further clarify.
Pics:






------------------Reloader B LED MOD-----------------


Mod made by Z4ck

Well, I had my wisdom teeth out about 2 days ago and had nothing to do. My v35 board fried, so I decided to mess around with my Reloader board. I was thinking it would be nice if there were an LED mod for it. I had an extra LED from the v35 board and decided to poke it around lol.

Materials needed:
Standard soldering iron
Any sort of solder (the smaller the better)
Radio Shack red LED (item # 276-026), 3mm low intensity T-1 size, 3V, 15mA, 2.5 mcd
Some sisors or wire cutters

How to do it:

1. Take your LED

2. Find the 5 holes on the right of the board that are surrounded with what appears to be silver nuts with the plus sign by the first one.

3. Place the negative or smaller leg through the first hole and the positive through the second hole.

4. Solder the legs onto the board.

5. Cut off the legs on the LED of till it flush with the board

6....... Damnit forgot.. oh wait!

6. Profit!





________________________________COMPAIR POST!________________________________

Ok heres what ill do first Since batteries are such an issue with halos today Ill make a graph oh what batteries are the best for your halo.

Since all of your have aksed then ill add this is there for you heres a vid showing you how awesome the bone packs are:

http://www.zippyvideos.com/411784253...the_bone_test/

Heres links and stuff to the different battery choise's you have first being the best and last being the worst.
If you dont like the way I have it then look at the graph on why I picked that to be on top.

Bone!

energy paintball

ballistic

boost


Halo battery consumption chart: Thanks to Dueydog



..........................Bone......Boost......Bal listic......Energy......Duracell.......9V's......a a Nimh......e2's

Run time(cases)... 10-11 .... N/A* ..... 10-11 ....... 45 ........... 4-5 ....... 2-3 ........ 5-6 ........ 10
Weight(OZ)........... 3.5 ..... 4.2 .......... N/A ....... 6.5 ........... 6.5 ........ 3.3 ........ 6.5 ........ 6.5
Can recharge.......... Y ....... Y ............ Y ........... Y ............. N ........... N .......... Y .......... Y
BPS(stock)............ 24 ...... N/A* ...... N/A ......... N/A .......... 20 ......... 18 ......... 22 ......... 24
Price($)............... $55 ..... $85 ........ $45 ......... $22 .......... $5 .......... $5 ........ $15 ........ $6
Works with mods..... Y ....... N .......... N/A** ..... N/A**......... Y ........... N .......... Y .......... N
Voltage................ 9.6 ..... 10.6 ....... 10.9 ........ N/A**....... 8.5 .......... 9.6 ........ 9 ......... 9.6
MAH................... 1000 ..... 1400 ...... N/A ......... N/A ......... 600 ....... 400 ........ 800 ........ 800

*Cant tell because it fried my board
**unknown because the company didn't tell me

Now here's what I think you should buy:

#1 Bone! (best battery pack that I can find it lasts for ever and its as light as 2 9V)

# 2 Energy Paintball (IDK how but they say you can get 45 cases off of one charge I need to test this but if I like then they would be #1)

#3 ballistic (if they work the way they say they do then these are nice)

#4 e2's (eh)

#5 aa nimh's

#6 duel 9V (they dont last long at all but they are light)

#7 aa Duracell's (well its stock so what can I say)

#8 Boost (well I hate boost with a Passion only because they do and will fri you board the only way your halo will work is if it 100% stock if you have any kind of a up on it or set you V35 over #4 it will fri.)

;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;Suicide VS Cranium;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;

Since this thread is all about halo, I decided to put my review/comparison between Hybrid Suicide Shell and Powerlyte Cranium Shell here.




These are a Red Camo Powerlyte Cranium Shell ($36.95) and a White Hybrid Suicide Shell ($50).


Cranium Shell comes with a clear back plate and magnetic lid. As for the magnetic lid, it's very secure and only one finger can pop it up. However, you will have to use some tapes in order to fit Speedfeed on Cranium.



As you can see from pictures, the bottom part of Cranium is molded as one piece while the Suicide has two pieces as same as halo stock shell. The another nice feature is the tray. You just remove two screws at the bottom (Suicide has five screws) to take the tray off in order to reach the halo engine. It's a huge advantage from Cranium especially when you get hit at the front of your hopper, it's such a pain to take apart the whole thing at night after your game day (you can skip this part if you have never cleaned your hopper though).





One more cool feature ! You can install your board and back plate without damage. Well, pictures can tell you everything.


Finally this picture shows everything you will get from Powerlyte. Please note that the camo pattern is printed with clear layer on the Cranium Shell which some damages on color are found around the neck after field tests. I'd say Cranium Shell wins this round because not only Cranium Shell has more cool features than Suicide Shell, but also less expensive.

Hope you guys enjoy my review.

;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;Bone Rip drive knobs;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;

Pic:

Ok well I just got the rip and OMG is the thing soo pimp. It fits just like it should and it lighter then alot of the other rip drive ends out there. I like this knob it has a cool look to it and yet its light and strong. You can buy them from : www.dueydog.com

10/10.
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Old 06-15-2006, 10:31 PM #6
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room for more mods4
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Old 06-15-2006, 10:31 PM #7
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room for more mods5
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Old 06-15-2006, 10:32 PM #8
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room for more mods6
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Old 06-15-2006, 10:56 PM #9
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STICKY

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Old 06-15-2006, 10:57 PM #10
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Keep in mind Curt designed the Cheetah board to work with the stock components. I'm not sure adding a new motor and/or a stiffer spring will help things or hurt them.
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Old 06-15-2006, 11:49 PM #11
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crownsk8er - lol no I did that so I can have room for more mods/reviews if you look they are about 1 min apart from one another

FallNAngel - yes but the hyperdash 2 motor is just about the same in voltage and amperage, its just up to 3 times faster.
stock motor : 5,000 - 8,000 RPMS
Hyperdash 2 : 15,000 RPMS
so I guess it will work but I have yet to test this. Why you may ask because I just spent $60 on a halo board and I really dont want to fri it i'm happy as is with the stock motor but my other halo as the hyperdash2
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Old 06-16-2006, 12:23 AM #12
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Should be stickied in the Ultimate sticky.
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Old 06-16-2006, 12:58 AM #13
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you sir are a god.
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Old 06-16-2006, 01:12 AM #14
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m dogg2021 - Thanks bro for supporting me in this thread. Guys check out my sig!!
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Old 06-16-2006, 07:48 AM #15
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sweet it was time for a new thread. good thinking leaving more room for mods lol just thought up another one. Also can you add the out of the gate mod in sig?
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Old 06-16-2006, 09:25 PM #16
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Lurker27 - Ultimate sticky? I cant find it. but if you did sticky it anywhere then thanks!

marc0 - lol awesome I'm a GOD! glad you love the thread man

Lil Azn Dave - Glad to help you out and BTW I sent the money today.

flight cancled - lol you never stop do you.. glad I did 7 posts this time. and yes I will add that in here for ya.
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Old 06-16-2006, 09:35 PM #17
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Nice thread. I'll be looking at it alot.
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Old 06-16-2006, 09:59 PM #18
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Thanks bro. Should be there shortly after it arrives.
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Old 06-16-2006, 10:34 PM #19
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mo0op - lol theres alot to do to a halo so mod it up!

Lil Azn Dave - AWESOME!! cant wait to get it.
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Old 06-16-2006, 11:42 PM #20
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Haha yeah.
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Old 06-17-2006, 07:32 AM #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m_dogg2021
flight cancled - lol you never stop do you.. glad I did 7 posts this time. and yes I will add that in here for ya.
hell no I'm not stopping until my hoppers can empty themselves in half a second while making me waffles. lol
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