Well folks, many of you know me here, I love my RPM, and I know you love yours too, I feel a bond with you as RPM lovers(Im not gay!)
Well I wanted to make a thread about, well, The RPM. How it works,How to make a VA, what lube to use, Pictures of it taken down, what to lube, ect. It will be a long process, and I know Ill have your help through all of it!
Feel free to ask any question here of PM me!
Also be for I start, by useing this guid you may mess up your RPM, If you do it isent my fault!
Lets start with its Specs.
-FASOR(Foward Aired, Spring Oprated Return)
Air is put behind the ram to strike the valve for the shot, the spring then returns the ram back to the rest position of the cycle. Now this is not as smooth and operation as fully EP markers, nor is it as efficent, but it works well, only thing it needs is an LPR to make it a bit more efficent and a bit better on paint, also an ajustable dwell would be nice, so I cant wait for a T-board.(I'm in the process, I'll keep you posted!)
AKA eyes. The eye logic on the RPM is very very well done, Requiring the beam to be bronken with every shot. This means there is no chance of chopping more then once with dirty eyes(it wont shoot unless the beam is re broken)
-Q.E.V(Quick Exhaust Valve)
Removes the air from behind the ram for faster cycle speeds.
Umm holds any hopper, Tight
-Bottom Line Regulator
Uses your tanks pre-set regulator to adjust the incomeing pressure to the gun. The down side of this is, if you have a slow tank reg, you will get shoot down.
Can be dyed, to match almost any color. Also dosent need to be lubed.
Can be set to ramp, or 19 BPS capped on semi, the modes go like this.
-Ramping starting at 11 BPS
-Ramping starting at 13 BPS
-Ramping starting at 15 BPS
The RPM Runs at about 225, at that pressure I get about 260FPS(feet per second) at the crono.
The RPM is cocker threaded, as are most high end guns(Timmies, Egos, DMs, ect.)
Well now for the brake down pictures, This will take me a second as I have to Upload them. Click on them to enlarge them.
-Frist we have the total brake down, this is the whole gun apart minus the hoses(that will come later)
-Next we have the trigger frame and board.
-Now the Front cap, valve and valve spring.
-Now the ram, bolt, Q.E.V, and Return spring.
-Now we have to body, eye wires, eye covers , noid, and hoses
Now Ill tell you how to take apart your RPM.
-Start out by undoing the back Air fitting(the one that leads to the Q.E.V, you cant miss it) Now remove the ram, bolt and spring.
-Once you have done that, remove the eye covers, and remove the eyes from there holes(dont lose the little clear plastic peices!) Now remove the detents, or they will fall out and you will need new ones.
-Next remove the stock reg(the screws are in there very very very very tight, I twised an allen trying to brake them free) once the reg is out, undo your stainlss steel line fron the gun body, not the Regulator it self.
-Now remove the grip frame screws, if you cant find them, stop now, you shouldent be doing this. If you can find them, take them out, and remove the frame from the gun body. Now you can see the eye wire plug's, undo them, but dont pull on the wires, or they may come out.
-Now you have, the frame seprate from the body, you will see a brass screw right behind the front air fitting, remove it. The slide the Valve out the back of the gun, its a tight fit out the front, so take it out of the back.
-And there, you have it all apart, If you need more in depth, just let me know and I'll post it. In future I'll Update on how to lube the Noid, and how to remove the Spyder style noid from the grip frame(its easy, but I dont have the time right now)
NOTE: I am in no way responable for you ****ing up your RPM, I made this as a guid, feel fee to use it but it isent my fault if your gun dosent work after you put it together. KNow your self and your gun.
Well now you know what it looks like broken down, you are ready to lube your RPM. I use dow on the ram, Just a light coating will do, Look under the bolt in the last picture I have in the above section if you dont know what the ram is. Also, Dont be afraid to lube the Valve piston shaft every once and a while, look about at the second picture if you dont know where or what that is.
NOTE:If lubeing this way messes up your RPM in the long run, or in a short tim, I am not Responable for it. Ive been doing this senice I got mine and nothing bad, But if you mess up doing what I say, It is not my fault!
Now, On to the VA, not to many ways have been done, And I belive I was the frist of many to VA my RPM. My meathod isent for the faint of heart If you eant Info Pm, heres what my VA looks like.
This is the Shocktech Spyder to 1/8 NPT adaptor.
Heres DTDoc's Blue RPM with the adaptor on it.
Here DTDoc's RPM with the adaptor and the VA in it.
All that needs to be done is to file or cut off a few of the adaptor threads to work! Great stuff DTDoc, Thanks for helping the cause!
Heres a link to his thread:
Well There is a full auto mod, Look at the two wires sticking up in the board, connect them and turn the gun on, you now have full auto on any mode you are in, so if you are in semi, you know are in 19 BPS full auto.
Now there have been rumors of a T board, If it comes out Im going to order and review it, I hope it dose, with un capped full auto, to see just how fast the RPM is.
Trigger Post Stop Mod
Materials for Mod:
~Vise(to keep the trigger from moving when drilling)
~Drill Bit #36(go to lowes and buy the tap and drill set)
~Tap 6-32(comes in the set mentioned above)
~Go to tractor supply and get Part #835780(its like one of the other screws in the trigger but a little smaller
~Allen Wrench Kit
~Punch and Hammer(to get the Trigger pin out that holds the trigger in)
~Some Kind of Clear Glue(like superglue or goop to hold post stop screw in place)
1) Use Punch and Hammer to get the pin out that is keeping the trigger in. Stick the nail into the right side of gun on the pin, so the pin should make its way out through the left side.
2) Mark Where you feel is the best place to Drill the Hole for the post stop screw.
3) Put the the trigger in the vise so that the front side of the trigger is facing up.
4) Drill the hole where you previously made your mark with the pencil/marker (drilling the hole from the front of the trigger all the way through to the back)
5) Make sure the tap is tight in the piece used to hold it....otherwise it will slide around and cause problems.....then apply some force, and slowly start turning the tap in the trigger, making sure to gradually turn the tap 1/4 turn back to assure good threads, opposed to just screwing it in the whole time.
6) Once you have completely made the threads....simply get an allen wrench and the screw, and turn it in the trigger to make sure it screw in fine.
7) Apply a very small amount of super glue to threads, and get the screw to where u want quick, before the glue dries....make sure to not get any glue in the spot where you put the allen wrench.......(putting the glue in is not neccesary, but will help prevent the screw from moving out of where you want it to stay)
8) Put the trigger back in, and with the smooth end of the pin facing down, hamer the pin in through the left side of the gun (the rough side of the pin should be facing up, and should end up on the left end of the gun, with the smooth end of the pin on the right......if you dont know what im talking about, you will once you get the pin out)
Now, Thats all I have time for right now, Thanks for reading this, and I will Update it as soon As I get new Infomation. Now I want to give credit where it is do so I ask the following RPM onwers to come foward so I can Put them in this post.
-To the person who posted about the full auto mod, Id like to add it here.
-To any other VA modders who have found one that works, plese come foward so I can Add it here.
-Any one with any more Info at all, I need all of you RPM onwers help!
-Also would like feed back on how to make this thread better!
Also, heres a Video and a picture of my current RPM set up.
Thanks for looking!