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Old 03-20-2006, 02:46 PM #1
Icedrelm
 
 
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Everything you need to know about the RPM

Well folks, many of you know me here, I love my RPM, and I know you love yours too, I feel a bond with you as RPM lovers(Im not gay!)

Well I wanted to make a thread about, well, The RPM. How it works,How to make a VA, what lube to use, Pictures of it taken down, what to lube, ect. It will be a long process, and I know Ill have your help through all of it!

Feel free to ask any question here of PM me!

Also be for I start, by useing this guid you may mess up your RPM, If you do it isent my fault!

_________________


Lets start with its Specs.

-FASOR(Foward Aired, Spring Oprated Return)
Air is put behind the ram to strike the valve for the shot, the spring then returns the ram back to the rest position of the cycle. Now this is not as smooth and operation as fully EP markers, nor is it as efficent, but it works well, only thing it needs is an LPR to make it a bit more efficent and a bit better on paint, also an ajustable dwell would be nice, so I cant wait for a T-board.(I'm in the process, I'll keep you posted!)

-SE(Sensor Element)
AKA eyes. The eye logic on the RPM is very very well done, Requiring the beam to be bronken with every shot. This means there is no chance of chopping more then once with dirty eyes(it wont shoot unless the beam is re broken)

-Q.E.V(Quick Exhaust Valve)
Removes the air from behind the ram for faster cycle speeds.

-Clamping Feed
Umm holds any hopper, Tight

-Bottom Line Regulator
Uses your tanks pre-set regulator to adjust the incomeing pressure to the gun. The down side of this is, if you have a slow tank reg, you will get shoot down.

-Delrin bolt
Can be dyed, to match almost any color. Also dosent need to be lubed.

-Ramping Board
Can be set to ramp, or 19 BPS capped on semi, the modes go like this.

-Ramping starting at 11 BPS
-Ramping starting at 13 BPS
-Ramping starting at 15 BPS

Operating Pressure(PSI)
The RPM Runs at about 225, at that pressure I get about 260FPS(feet per second) at the crono.

Barrel
The RPM is cocker threaded, as are most high end guns(Timmies, Egos, DMs, ect.)
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Well now for the brake down pictures, This will take me a second as I have to Upload them. Click on them to enlarge them.

-Frist we have the total brake down, this is the whole gun apart minus the hoses(that will come later)



-Next we have the trigger frame and board.



-Now the Front cap, valve and valve spring.



-Now the ram, bolt, Q.E.V, and Return spring.



-Now we have to body, eye wires, eye covers , noid, and hoses


_________________


Now Ill tell you how to take apart your RPM.

-Start out by undoing the back Air fitting(the one that leads to the Q.E.V, you cant miss it) Now remove the ram, bolt and spring.

-Once you have done that, remove the eye covers, and remove the eyes from there holes(dont lose the little clear plastic peices!) Now remove the detents, or they will fall out and you will need new ones.

-Next remove the stock reg(the screws are in there very very very very tight, I twised an allen trying to brake them free) once the reg is out, undo your stainlss steel line fron the gun body, not the Regulator it self.

-Now remove the grip frame screws, if you cant find them, stop now, you shouldent be doing this. If you can find them, take them out, and remove the frame from the gun body. Now you can see the eye wire plug's, undo them, but dont pull on the wires, or they may come out.

-Now you have, the frame seprate from the body, you will see a brass screw right behind the front air fitting, remove it. The slide the Valve out the back of the gun, its a tight fit out the front, so take it out of the back.

-And there, you have it all apart, If you need more in depth, just let me know and I'll post it. In future I'll Update on how to lube the Noid, and how to remove the Spyder style noid from the grip frame(its easy, but I dont have the time right now)


NOTE: I am in no way responable for you ****ing up your RPM, I made this as a guid, feel fee to use it but it isent my fault if your gun dosent work after you put it together. KNow your self and your gun.
_________________


Well now you know what it looks like broken down, you are ready to lube your RPM. I use dow on the ram, Just a light coating will do, Look under the bolt in the last picture I have in the above section if you dont know what the ram is. Also, Dont be afraid to lube the Valve piston shaft every once and a while, look about at the second picture if you dont know where or what that is.

NOTE:If lubeing this way messes up your RPM in the long run, or in a short tim, I am not Responable for it. Ive been doing this senice I got mine and nothing bad, But if you mess up doing what I say, It is not my fault!

_________________

Now, On to the VA, not to many ways have been done, And I belive I was the frist of many to VA my RPM. My meathod isent for the faint of heart If you eant Info Pm, heres what my VA looks like.

Picture link

DTDoc's method

This is the Shocktech Spyder to 1/8 NPT adaptor.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...9/efe491ac.jpg

Heres DTDoc's Blue RPM with the adaptor on it.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...9/efe491a7.jpg

Here DTDoc's RPM with the adaptor and the VA in it.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...9/efe491a9.jpg

All that needs to be done is to file or cut off a few of the adaptor threads to work! Great stuff DTDoc, Thanks for helping the cause!

Heres a link to his thread:
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=1425661

_________________


Well There is a full auto mod, Look at the two wires sticking up in the board, connect them and turn the gun on, you now have full auto on any mode you are in, so if you are in semi, you know are in 19 BPS full auto.

_________________


Now there have been rumors of a T board, If it comes out Im going to order and review it, I hope it dose, with un capped full auto, to see just how fast the RPM is.

_________________


Trigger Post Stop Mod

By: streakin004

Materials for Mod:
~Vise(to keep the trigger from moving when drilling)
~Drill
~Drill Bit #36(go to lowes and buy the tap and drill set)
~Tap 6-32(comes in the set mentioned above)
~Go to tractor supply and get Part #835780(its like one of the other screws in the trigger but a little smaller
~Allen Wrench Kit
~Punch and Hammer(to get the Trigger pin out that holds the trigger in)
~Pencil/Dark Marker
NOT NEEDED
~Some Kind of Clear Glue(like superglue or goop to hold post stop screw in place)

Process(sp?)
1) Use Punch and Hammer to get the pin out that is keeping the trigger in. Stick the nail into the right side of gun on the pin, so the pin should make its way out through the left side.

2) Mark Where you feel is the best place to Drill the Hole for the post stop screw.

3) Put the the trigger in the vise so that the front side of the trigger is facing up.

4) Drill the hole where you previously made your mark with the pencil/marker (drilling the hole from the front of the trigger all the way through to the back)

5) Make sure the tap is tight in the piece used to hold it....otherwise it will slide around and cause problems.....then apply some force, and slowly start turning the tap in the trigger, making sure to gradually turn the tap 1/4 turn back to assure good threads, opposed to just screwing it in the whole time.

6) Once you have completely made the threads....simply get an allen wrench and the screw, and turn it in the trigger to make sure it screw in fine.

7) Apply a very small amount of super glue to threads, and get the screw to where u want quick, before the glue dries....make sure to not get any glue in the spot where you put the allen wrench.......(putting the glue in is not neccesary, but will help prevent the screw from moving out of where you want it to stay)

8) Put the trigger back in, and with the smooth end of the pin facing down, hamer the pin in through the left side of the gun (the rough side of the pin should be facing up, and should end up on the left end of the gun, with the smooth end of the pin on the right......if you dont know what im talking about, you will once you get the pin out)

_________________


Now, Thats all I have time for right now, Thanks for reading this, and I will Update it as soon As I get new Infomation. Now I want to give credit where it is do so I ask the following RPM onwers to come foward so I can Put them in this post.

-To the person who posted about the full auto mod, Id like to add it here.

-To any other VA modders who have found one that works, plese come foward so I can Add it here.

-Any one with any more Info at all, I need all of you RPM onwers help!

-Also would like feed back on how to make this thread better!

_________________


Also, heres a Video and a picture of my current RPM set up.

-Video

http://media.putfile.com/RPM-wCP-video

-Picture




Thanks for looking!

Jeff
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Last edited by Icedrelm : 06-08-2006 at 08:11 AM.
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Old 03-20-2006, 02:50 PM #2
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i vote for this thread to be stickied
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Old 03-20-2006, 02:59 PM #3
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Now lets remove your noid for cleaning and lubeing!

-Frist remove your gripframe (see above on how to do it) Once it is off, and the eye wires are disconceted, put it aside so you have what looks like the last brake down picture (just the body and the noid)

-Now look at the under side or your gun, you will see that there is a hose leading to the front of the noid, remove it from THE GUN, DO NOT REMOVE IT FROM THE NOID. How do You remove it? Well Simple really, take a wrench, and unserew it!

-Now remove the too holding screws that hold the noid on. BECARFUL!!!!!! The noid may lose parts inculding the SMALL spring!

-No gut your noid, Being VERY careful to rember what goes where (I'll add a Guide later)

-Look for any O-ring damage, and lube with dow 33, reassemble and your done!!!


Jeff
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Last edited by Icedrelm : 06-03-2006 at 06:59 AM.
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Old 03-20-2006, 03:06 PM #4
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nope, that is the most in depth "everything you need to know" thread i have ever read

the only thing that u might want to do is to say how well the parts work, along with how they operate
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Old 03-20-2006, 03:14 PM #5
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I'll revise what I said about how it works see if I can make it better.

Jeff
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Old 03-20-2006, 03:19 PM #6
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good stuff ice. Here's the link to my post (which includes pictures) using the shocktech spyder metric to standard adapter + the shocktech mini ac asa:

http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=1425661


once again, good stuff.
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Old 03-20-2006, 03:22 PM #7
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I'll add it and credit you ASAP! Thanks for helping the cause! Sorry cant get your pictures to show up, I'll keep trying.

Jeff
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Old 03-20-2006, 03:51 PM #8
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Send Majik a pm about this, he usually doesnt come in here so he won't notice it
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Old 03-20-2006, 04:20 PM #9
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Will do.

Jeff
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Old 03-20-2006, 05:47 PM #10
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is the trigger adjustable on the RPM

i never noticed the screw on the backside of the trigger
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Old 03-20-2006, 06:14 PM #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by streakin004
i vote for this thread to be stickied
i second that motion
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Old 03-20-2006, 06:34 PM #12
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cool
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Old 03-20-2006, 07:58 PM #13
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RPM with Wrath LPR

Here's my second contribution. Figured I'd just post it here instead of making a whole new thread.

*NOTE* once again I am not responsible for whatever happens if you try to re-create what i've done here. This is for demonstration purposes only.


So I got some wrath parts in from one of the peeps over in the Diablo forum that was parting his wrath. I picked up the stock LPR adapter and the LPR. and Yes it does fit, but with a few considerations to think about.

Here's a pic of the wrath lpr adapter next to the RPM front cap



As you can see the the left is the wrath lpr adapter the right is from my RPM. The o-ring spacing and the diameter of the two pieces are almost identical. The only difference is the location of the set screw. On the wrath piece it is between the o-rings and on the RPM piece it's after after the o-rings (The top of each piece fits into the marker. So in practice what this means is that the valve spring isn't compressed in as far. In theory that means there is less pressure on the valve stem and therefore it will most likely require less force to push it open. IE. you can use a lower lpr preassure. Assuming everything seals right I think this is a bonus. I haven't aired it up yet but here's a picture all set up



Everything lines up perfectly. The lpr hose on the lpr is on the same side as the slot in the frame. Good stuff. I'll update more after I get a chance to get out and tune this sucker a bit.

*UPDATE*
New pics with Ice's asa mod done




Last edited by DTDoc : 03-25-2006 at 04:59 PM.
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Old 03-20-2006, 08:25 PM #14
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NICE JOB!!! This is exactly what we need! I love it! DTDoc, you are the man, or women, Im not sure but what ever you are, it is amazing. My theory was correct then a wrath LPR will fit. Im glad Im not a blabbering fool, now the question is, will it work? Nice RPM by the way, and if you need help(though you do seem very very capaple)Send me a PM, Im here to help any RPM onwer out. Now for reminding me, I need a Thank you section! Also tanks for posting here, That was a very good way to cut down thread clutter.

Now a word of advice, You will need to run a new hose to the noid, and short of cutting them off I see no way of removeing them, you will also have to plug one hole for the LPR to work, Ill be getting an LPR soon(If the wrath one dosent work I may tap my front cap) But It looks very promiseing. Im gonna remove the hoses tonight and tell you what I find.

Jeff
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Old 03-20-2006, 08:34 PM #15
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Props to Ice and DTdoc for sick gats
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Old 03-20-2006, 08:38 PM #16
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Thanks, I figured out how to remove th hose, Just slide the spring back(may take some force) Then just cut it off the barb, Simple! All you need Is a plug. Hopefully I'll order a plug(If I can find what thread they are) and An LPR from NPS.

Jeff
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Old 03-20-2006, 08:48 PM #17
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Yeah thanks.

Ice, if you're looking for more hosing check out the Diablo forum. They found some places to get real cheap "stock" hose and even colored hoses. I'm going to assume the lpr hose on the wrath is the same.

Also, yeah I was aware of the plug necessity. I think i'll just go to the hardware store and look for a set screw to use, wrap it in teflon tape and screw it in. Keep us updated on how yours turns out. I don't think i'll have time to do real testing for a few weeks.
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Old 03-20-2006, 08:50 PM #18
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Hmm Will do, thanks for the imput all!

Jeff
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Old 03-20-2006, 10:18 PM #19
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Awesome thread so far... I think we should add (if there is) feednecks you can put on the RPM.
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Old 03-21-2006, 05:43 AM #20
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I have found one, but it leaves a lot of space between the body, Ill update it with that soon.

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Old 03-21-2006, 09:14 AM #21
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I thought somone said that Dragun feednecks fit?
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