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Old 04-01-2003, 11:28 PM #22
Join Date: Dec 2001
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What your dwell should be set at.

Here is a link to a tutorial written by truprsnpimpo
(make sure the window is maximized)
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Old 06-06-2003, 03:40 PM #23
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1. Hold Trigger while turning on gun
2. pull trigger to scroll threw the led colors
3. when the Led turns green stop and hold the trigger till it gots blank
4. let it blink the number of your debounce
5. pull the trigger the desired amount in this case once.
6. dont touch anything and let the LED scroll through the colors
7. wait till it turns solid green and then ur set


Last edited by PMIGGIMP : 09-08-2003 at 05:31 PM.
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Old 06-24-2003, 06:55 PM #24
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How to figure what size volumizer is needed for the single reg. zer+length
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Old 11-23-2003, 01:13 PM #25
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A tip...

When you are rebuilding your gun check your front regs screw and make sure its tight and isnt causing any damage too the reg, it creates massive problems (simple once you know what it is).

When you buy a broken gun, check it over. (I've learned that the hard way.)
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Old 12-22-2003, 10:44 AM #26
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Thumbs up Center that switch for a reliable pull

To center the switch on my trigger I took the two tiny switch screws off and put an autococker 3-way o-ring on at the end of each screw on the underside of the switch. It raises the switch a mm and centers it with the back of the trigger. It makes the pull a little more reliable. I run my CP trigger like this with a flipped (\) cut stock switch with no return spring with the switch tripping at the beginning of the pull and a little play after it trips and it makes it so easy to walk my trigger.

Last edited by bigwise1 : 12-22-2003 at 10:49 AM.
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Old 12-23-2003, 11:53 AM #27
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Number: 209-293-4440

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Please note, all USPS/us mail packages, letters, etc. must go to the P.O. Box or they will be returned to you without the post office ever making a delivery attempt to our new location.

All other shipping methods, i.e. UPS, FEDEX, etc., must go to the following address.
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Old 01-10-2004, 01:06 PM #28
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I sent the following to the new owner of my recently sold Dragon. He was unfamiliar with timmies, so I jotted down a few things. I thought I'd post it here in case it can help anyone. Keep in mind the context when these tips were written:

Timmy Tips

Here's a few tips that I'm writing down off of the top of my head... make sure you read the Intimidator Owner's Manual, and the WAS Equalizer manual. The gun should be setup and ready to go.

Leave the low pressure reg (LPR) alone! It should be set at around 75 psi (gauge on side) or slightly lower, and not touched again. Do not use it to adjust your velocity. It should only be adjusted after cleaning... if necessary. If you don't touch the adjustment screw, it should be right where it needs to be when you screw it back together. If the LPR gets over 100 psi, it can blow your solenoid.

Use the high pressure reg (torpedo) for velocity adjustments. It's probably shooting around 260-280 right now. Lube the LPR and torpedo after every few cases. You may need to do it more with a screw-in, since they tend to let more dirt in and don't have filtered fill nipples. Also, lube the ram about the same time. You can do the ram a bit more if you like since it is easy to get at, but don't "over service" your marker, or you are just giving yourself more chances to break something...

Don't lube the bolt, unless you use tri-flow (nothing else!). It doesn't really require any lubricant because the o-rings are made to be lube-free. I never lubed it, and that is the original bolt/o-rings.

Always check that the ram cap is screwed in before a game. Sometimes it loosens, so you may need to torque it down a bit to keep this from happening.

If you put the Equalizer on "simulate" to see how fast you can shoot, try not to save the setting away. You'll end up forgetting and chopping like mad. If you do chop for no apparent reason, check this setting! I prefer "forced" mode btw.

The "BIP delay" setting is setup for a Halo B. If you use another hopper, you may want to increase this setting a bit. Read the manual for more information.

The buttons are kind of hard to push to get to the menus. There is a good "angle" and pressure combination that seems to work better that you'll figure out. When you turn it on, pull the trigger right away to skip the "boot up" sequence.

If the marker starts getting less consistent over the chrono, you may need a cleaning.

I've included some DOW 55. You don't need very much at all for lubing! Only use very small amounts... enough to put a light covering on the o-rings.

For more complex problems, check the PBNation forums... the Intimidator forum has tons of helpful people (although there is a lot of no-so-helpful people there lately too).
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Old 01-15-2004, 10:32 PM #29
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Programming your WAS board via LED

ok, here's how to program ur board via the LED, no matter what kind u've got.

holding the trigger down and turning the gun on and releasing the trigger changes it to program mode.

Red solid (no blinking) LED = ur dwell
Green solid (no blinking) LED = your debounce
Orange solid (no blinking) LED = your gun's mode

each time you pull the trigger the color of the LED will change. once you find the color you want hold the trigger down. That will enter the boards specific setting for that option.

I haven't really messed with dwell too much through the LED, but you shouldn't need to mess with ur dwell.

Red/dwell is adjustable in 1ms inciments, so each blink or trigger pull = 1 ms. So, 8 trigger pulls equals 8ms dwell, which I beleive is the optimum for intimidators? once you get to ur desired dwell stop pulling the trigger and let the gun sit for about 10 - 15 seconds and the LED will flash red/green a bunch. This means the programing is being applied. once the LEDs stop flashing. The LED should be a solid red (this is because you are back in the main menu). At this point you can either shut the gun off, or click to the next option you would like to use.

Green/Debounce is adjustable in 1ms incraments as well. adjust to the desired setting, wait for the red/green lights to flash, once the red/green LED's end you will be able to scroll to your next option, or turn the gun off and use ur settings just like with dwell. DEBOUNCE TRICKS @ THE END OF THE THREAD

Orange/Firing mode - Now, there are only 4 options here
1blink = bypass = eyes are bypassed and the gun is limited to 13bps.
2blink = Delayed = gun will delay for a second b4 firing if a ball isn't detected. What the SOB does!
3blink = Forced = Optimum for shooting ur bullets all over muppet faces! Gun no shootey shootey till it sees ur bullets.
4blink = Simulate = Gun mimics paint constantly infront of the eye! Extremely fast! DON'T SHOOT PAINT IN THIS MODE, I GARUNTEE YOU WILL CHOP!

now as usual, you select ur stuff by pulling the trigger, let it sit for a bit, let the lights flash, and walaa, ur mode is chosen.

If you want the almighty debounce of 1! This is very simple with WAS 2.6, however WAS 2.7 can still acheive this feat it's not that difficult, just takes a brain.

WAS 2.6 - Enter Programing mode - Select the green LED to enter ur debounce level - Wait for the LED to stop flashing - pull the trigger 1 time - Wait for the flashing lights - Once the lights stop turn the gun off - Your debounce is now set to 1. Enjoy mowing muppets @ ungoldy speed with ease.

WAS 2.7 (you will need an LCD screen for this!) - Enter the programming mode - select debounce/green - wait for the LED to stop (note: you can bypass the waiting step for this one, but keep track of ur trigger pulls) - pull the trigger roughly 250 times - when you have pulled the trigger roughly 250 times stop pulling the trigger - let the LED do it's flashy thing - Turn the gun off once the LED stop flashing - Turn the gun off - Turn the gun back on - use ur LCD to access your debounce - now, this is the important part! Ur WAS board's debounce will roll over @ 255, so push the debounce up till you get to 255, then you can 2 more times. DO NOT! set your debounce to 0! it is slow and gay, so don't be impressed! Tadaa! debounce of 1, just save the setting, and ur set!

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Old 01-18-2004, 01:50 AM #30
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How to set youre debounce to 1 if you have WAS v2.7

Hope this thing works for all those who has WAS v2.7. i saw this post at IOG and they said that it works. so hope it works with you guys.

theres a way u can unlock debounce 1 on 2.7 here is what u do

1.Hold down trigger and turn the gun on
2.Cycle through the led by pulling the trigger so its on green
3.hold the trigger till it blinks, let it finish blinking.
4.Pull the trigger 250 times
5 let the baord read it and the led will flash
6.Turn gun off
7.Turn gun on and go into debounce through the lcd and keep scrolling up its gonna be at 250 and press the arrow up and it will roll over to debounce 0 and then 1
8.Save it and u got debounce 1
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Old 02-11-2004, 03:16 PM #31
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From my original post...

I decided to compile some general info for new Timmy owners that gets asked all the time, even though it can be found through a search...

Things that all Timmys need:
  • Adjustable ram cap, unless you happen to have an Alias (doesn't need one) or an Empire (comes with one)
  • WAS (Manual), Entropy (Manual), or newer (2k4) board
Everything else is preference. Strap on a loader, trigger, and barrel of choice, and you'll be good to go.

What HPA system should I get?

Optimal input pressure to a torpedo regulator is 500psi. That said, anything between 400 and 900psi works fine. Any preset or adjustable tank will work.

If you use a Halo or similar forcefeed loader, you may need to get extra hard detents if you have problems with double feeding.

Lubing the regulators:
Please note that both regulators on Intimidators must be lubricated properly before firing! You follow more-or-less the same directions for both regulators.
  1. Disassemble regulator into its two halves
  2. Remove washer, spring, and piston
  3. Wipe the parts decently clean with a rag or paper towel, careful not to leave any fibers on it
  4. Apply a light coat of Dow 33 or Dow 55 to the piston's o-ring
  5. Reassemble, careful to leave the skinny end of the piston towards the reg valve

Adjusting the ram cap:
  1. Gas your Timmy up so the bolt is all the way back, with no loader or paintballs
  2. Feel down your feedneck into the breech and note where the front of the bolt lines up
  3. Using a 5/64" allen key (at least for Hybrid ram caps), move the adjuster screw in or out to line the front of the bolt up so that it is just barely sticking into the feedneck, about 1/16"

Ultimate Timmy tool kit:
  • Allen keys used:
    1/8": grip frame->body, regulator housing screw
    3/32": clamshell grip frame screws, trigger screw, trigger frame screws
    5/64": grip screws, trigger adjustment screws, adjuster screw in ram cap (at least for Hybrids)
    1/16": board retaining screw, solenoid screw, eye cover screws, side plate screws
  • Crescent wrench that goes up to 1" wide
  • Replacement o-ring kit
  • Spare cup seals if not using a Black Magic cup seal (Unless you have a poppet stem with the delrin end, in which case a cup seal isn't needed. The Empire and Alias Intimidators both come with these poppet stems.)
  • Spare ram bumpers (unless using Shocktech ram or Alias)
  • Spare ball detents (Spyder detents work, but you may need extra hard detents if you use a Halo B)

Common problems and their solutions:
  • Leaking down barrel: Lube, flip, or replace cup seal.
  • Leaking from bolt area: Front ram o-ring needs lubed and/or replaced.
  • Chopping paint: Make sure the adjustable ram cap is screwed in tightly and adjusted properly. If you are using a non-forcefeed loader or are and only the last few balls chop, and are using a newer board, set your ball in place delay to 3ms.
  • First few shots spiking significantly (greater than 25fps): This is a problem with the machining of the torpedo's spring, and is solved by diassembling the torpedo and sanding down the edges of the torpedo's spring so they are smooth.
  • Velocity fluctuating (over 10fps): This is probably a dwell that is set too low. See "The dwell question" below.
  • LCD screen doesn't show anything or is garbled/unreadable: This is almost always one of two things. The first is the top left-hand grip screw tightened down too hard when it has no o-ring. This results in the screw pushing down on the ribbon cable, distorting or blanking the LCD screen.
    The other possibility is the LCD ribbon cable itself isn't attached properly. Insure that the metal contacts are clean on the one side (if they aren't, a little steel wool cleans them up very quickly), that the side with the contacts is facing towards the left side of the board, and that the connector is secured, with the white tabs on either side of the ribbon cable's connector pushed down towards the board.
  • Very slow ROF (Rate of Fire): First, make sure the eyes aren't bypassing, which is generally capped to around 13bps.
    If that is right, ensure that your adjustable ram cap is adjusted properly! As a ram bumper wears down, the bolt will sit further and further back the breech. If paint is allowed to roll back just a little bit from where it should be (in front of the eyes), the eyes think there is no paint. If you have to shake your Timmy occasionally to make it shoot, this is almost always the culprit.
    If the board isn't picking up trigger pulls at all, make sure your trigger's activation set screw (the middle one) isn't too far in. Most people need a longer pull with switch activation in the middle for the fastest pull. Along these same lines, make sure the wires to the trigger switch are in tip-top shape.
    If none of these is the cause, practice walking your trigger, since it's probably you!

Maintenance (Compliments of SilverLCDBushy):
  1. Pull up the bolt pin and slide out the bolt, get a wet rag and wipe down the bolt, if there are any dark spots scrub hard and it should go away
  2. Take off your barrel and screw it apart if you have a 2-piece, then wash it with water and squegee it dry
  3. Take out the ram by unscrewing the ram cap and tilt the gun backwards, holding your hand under the hole... it should slide right out
  4. Check the front and back o-rings on the ram for tears or rips, also look at your ram bumper and see if its not cracking or spilting
  5. Wipe all the old grease off and put a fresh coat of dow 55/33 ( DO NOT use white lithium grease, it will eat your orings), and put it back in, also put a little dab of dow on the ram cap threads and oring
  6. Take off the bottom of your torpedo regulator, there should be a o-ring there lube it so it seals, put that back on, for people who have other regs, lube the orings, this is a vital part of your gun!
  7. Now on to the front reg, if you have a volumizer take it off and lube the oring on that then carefully pull out the piston with some needle nose pliers and wipe all the old grease off that and apply a new coat
  8. Put that back together, make sure the fat end of the piston is back towards the spring when you put it in
  9. Back to the bolt, get some tri-flow from a bicycle stop or hardware store and put a few drops on the bolt and smear it around on the o-rings, then insert it and line it up with the ram and your done
  10. After all this wipe it down with a damp rag and put the barrel back on and you're done
  11. Grease the ram after every 3,000 shots or so, and grease the poppet every 5,000-6,000 shots, and finally grease the front regulators after every 2 times you play.

Gassing up for the day (Compliments of Jack & Coke by way of Bob)
  1. When you first gas up your Timmy for a day of paintball, screw in your tank (or turn on the on/off ASA). Your gun will pressurize and you will be able to fire it.
  2. Take a hex wrench and back the set screw of your LP Reg out (counter clock-wise) until it is flush with the end cap. Do the same to the HP reg. Fire your marker a few times as you do this and you will immediately notice that the system loses pressure to the point that it will not cycle (Kinda like when you de-gas a CO2 bottle from a marker).
  3. After both reg screws are flush and the gun cannot fire, slowly begin turning the LP reg screw in (clock-wise) in small increaments (i.e. 1/16 of a turn) as you fire the gun. Keep doing this until your main gauge reads 85 psi. Now your opperating pressure is set.
  4. After you have set the operating to 85 psi, slowly screw in the set screws in the the HP reg (clock-wise), until you see about 4 threads. This should put you in the neighborhood of 250-310 fps.
  5. Go to a chrono and fine turn the HP reg setting until your marker is shooting at the velocity you want.
  6. DO NOT DE-GAS YOUR GUN FOR THE REST OF THE DAY. Bob keeps his marker pressurized until his is done for the day. Only use your power on/off switch to disable your gun.

The dwell question

The best way to determine what your recommended dwell should be is to look at the wires coming out of the solenoid. If both wires are black, set your dwell to 8ms to be stock. If your wires are green/black and the solenoid is a Humphrey H040-E1, set your dwell to 8ms to be stock. If your wires are green/black and any other manufacturer or model number, your dwell should be at least 16ms. You'll find the slower solenoids mostly in older Timmys.

High flow barbs or not?

If you can fit a .050" allen key inside the barb, it is high flow. All new Intimidators (since April 2003, or so) have come with high flow barbs.

Best places to get Intimidator parts:
Any additions/corrections are welcome! Please IM me with anything, so this thread doesn't get cluttered, or reply to the original post linked at the top of this post.
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Last edited by levib : 02-24-2004 at 04:29 PM.
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Old 03-23-2004, 09:31 PM #32
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Lubing your Torpedo reg. (LPR is same directions)

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Old 04-23-2004, 10:29 AM #33
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Be careful when you are removing the grip frame to not mix the screws up because the back grip frame screw is longer than the front. If you happen to put the back frame screw in the front grip frame screw hole you may puncture the metal covering seperating the hole and the valve air chamber. Depending on the size of the puncture it may not be fixable, therefore making you get a new body.
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Old 04-27-2004, 07:29 PM #34
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A moderator PMed me the other night telling me that my post has innaccurate information in it. To my recolection, i went through the class and know what i am talking about.

Basically what i am trying to say is:

A. All that lube in the illustration above is unecessary, all you need to lube up is the O-Ring around the piston, which when completed stick the lubed piston back in the Body of the reg and slide it up and down a few times to get the wall of the regulator greased as well.

B. If your stuck on what grease works best, if you go to your local bike shop and get Tri Flow Chain lube for motorcycle chains, this is your best bet, reccomended from Bob Long himself. Another good grease to have is Dow Corning 33, also known as shocker lube, but is pretty much lithium grease, you can get lithum grease for about 3 dollars at your local home depot or lowes store, its a decent size tube, or you can call smart parts and order a few tubes of their grease.

C. Basic lubing/ Greasing of your Intimidator consists of three things, 1. Lube your LPR Piston every now and then, and if you have a volumizer and an LPR Lube the O ring that connects the LPR to the volumizer. 2. Your Ram. Take out the ram by removing the ram cap and bolt, turn the gun on its back and it should fall right out. Lube all the O Rings and Every now and then, stick a Q Tip inside the RAM Housing and clear some of that gunk that gathers from sand or dirt. 3. is your Reg. Depending on what type of regulator your using on the gun wether it be Bob Longs, CP, or what not its all basically the same exact thing. Just unscrew part A from B and remove the contents and Lube up that O Ring on the piston.

D. Leaking, The intimidator leaks from basically 3 or 4 spots, normally. The most common are the Barbs, if you have ever taken your grip off and accidently ripped one of the hoses off the barb, you know they tend to leak afterwards. this is simpally fixed by removing the barb with the necessary socket, and applying lock tight, preferibly BLUE, to the threads, dont over due it, and if the threads are messed up on it, cross-threaded or anything else that looks funky, you can call up Bobs store and order one to your house, it costs about 10$ after shipping.
Another spot thats known for leaking or that i have seen a lot of is the Ram Housing/ Valve Housing. This is the long tube in which you slide the ram into. To remove this you must take off the grip frame completely, take off the LPR and adapter and Un screw the large screw right behind the grip frame screw hole. You must also take out the barbs to be able to remove this. Then you just slide it out THROUGH THE BACK. Be careful, if necessary use a squeegie or dowell Rod. DO NOT DAMAGE THE CUP SEAL, which is the white "Washer" looking thing. Remove this and see there are Two O Rings on the body of the tube, these would be where the leaking is from.
The next spot is the LPR. Leaking from the LPR can be solved by A. Finding the leak. B. Discovering which O Ring is causing this leak. C Replace if necessary, but most of the time its just the piece is not tight enough. That or just Lube it up.

E. Spiking of the LPR. It is common to have spiking of your pressure coming out the LPR (spiking is when your LPR is set at a certain pressure and the pressure creeps up slowly in most cases, you can notice this by looking at your guage, that and your first shot may be VERY hot.) The simple solution to spiking is greasing and Thouroughly CLEANING your LPR out. If spiking continues, this can be due to too much pressure coming out of your In Line regulator, try cranking the pressure down.

F. Drop Off. Drop off is basically a leak. Let your gun sit for a while then check out your LPR Pressure Guage. If your pressure has dropped any, this can be due to a bad seal on your Cup Seal or an O Ring somewhere in the vicinity of the LPR.

G. Eye Problems- The most common Eye problem is they do not work. This can be many reasons such as them being Dirty or them not being set right. What i mean by not being set right is that the two eyes on either side of the gun are not ligned up properly to one another. There is a method to fixing this problem, although should be done by a tech. If you take a center Punch, you can pick one up at your local hardware store, make sure the head of the punch is not too big but not to small make sure it just coveres the eye. Take off the eye cover, and leave the eye mounted inside the hole, take the punch and center it over the back of the eye, tap the punch with somthing light, this will set the eye straight. The reason the eye would not be straight is that the lip around the back of the eye could be holding it from sitting properly. IF YOU ARE NOT COMFORTABLE doing this, DON'T! Take it to your local timmy tech, he will know what to do.

H. LPR Spring. When you take apart your LPR or Inline reg and you take out the HP spring, if you look at the ends of the spring, in some cases it is ground down with a grinder, FLAT. This is how it should be, if you rest the spring on a table right side up and it is leaning like the tower of pizza, you have a problem.. Although its not necessary or this to be flat, your better off making it flat to keep your gun af efficent as possible. A dremel tool or a belt sander would work on grinding the spring flat.

I. Bumpers. These are the black rubber bumpers on the back of your Ram Rod. There is a more efficent method out now its called a bumperless ram cap that Bob has recently invented. These bumpers may crack and cause problems. This new ram cap Eliminates the bumpers and you will never have to worry about replacing a bumper. To replace an old style bumper simply get a new one and pull the old one out... then just slide the new one in.

J. Bolt adjustments. Your Bolt should be adjusted just so when you look down the feed neck you can see the curve of the bolt if FLUSH with the gun body. Stick your finger down there and lign it up, you adjust this by your Adjustable ram cap. If you do not have an Adjustable Ram Cap and your bolt is off, i suggest buying one.

K. LPR not getting enough pressure? Take off the LPR and the round Disc that rests on the spring, inspect this disc, the LPR adjustment screw, for the pressure, might be digging into this metal disc. Solve this by turning it over and re assembling your LPR with the disc facing the opposite direction.
* This may also be a reason you are not getting velocity, check the disc in your In line, if you have already flipped it once, call up bob longs store and order a new one.

Any Further questions, id be happy to answer them, Contact me at or PM me.

Tom Carney

Here is the information to contact the Bob Long Intimidator store located in Oakley CA. Area Code 94561. 1799 Carpenter Rd.
Phone Number : 1-925-625-7929

If your sending your gun out to be teched, call them up first give them a warning and tell them what your sending them and what you expect, then Mail this package out to :
1799 Carpenter Rd.
Oakley CA. 94561
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Last edited by Taste_Paint : 02-15-2005 at 04:25 PM.
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Old 06-29-2004, 11:34 PM #35
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if your membrain buttons die on you unplug them and set them aside we are concerned about the gold prongs that go into the membrain switches you will use a paper clip as a jumper in this case. the center post is the comon wire between the 2 buttons when you cros one side to the center it acts as pushing one button when you cross all 3 it is like pushing and holding both buttons at the same time,

for a note i do not mean to bend the post by cross i mean to place the jumper over the posts

and now for an ilistration and my mad mspaint skills

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Old 07-01-2004, 10:07 PM #36
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to the post above.. you may want to watch where that paper clip touches.. you can probably short somthing out


PS. Clever none the less haha
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Old 07-07-2004, 11:28 AM #37
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Old 07-19-2004, 02:50 PM #38
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Lubes and Parts here.

Well, I keep seeing similar questions being asked: where can I get such and such? What's the cheapest place to get this or that?

I'm posting links to the places where I look and get parts and supplies from. Some of this may already be posted, some probably not, or needs to be said again.

Some of this stuff requires ability with a soldering iron and a basic understanding of wiring to accomplish.

Here's a link with lot's of good information, it's probably been posted already.

Dow Corning 55 - O-ring lubricant
They have 5.3 oz tubes for $11.45

Tri-Flow - Bolt O-ring lubricant and Your local bike shop should have this as well.

Crawford Tool has the 2 oz squeeze bottle for $2.20
Drago has the 12 oz aerosol can for $6.15

25gF Microswitches (WAS Switches/Airsoldier Switches) and

These switches come with three solder leads, no wires attached. To use these, solder your yellow wire onto the middle lead, and the blue wire onto the lead nearest the hinge.

\[] yellow, middle; blue, bottom.

/[] yellow, middle; blue, top.

Digikey Part #: SW153-ND
Cost: $1.10 each
Cost: $1.06 each

Eyes (WAS Eyes)

These eyes come with 2 solder leads, no wires attached. The long side is positive, the short, negative. I'm not exactly sure how to wire up the eyes, once I figure it out, I'll post an update.

Digikey Part #: QED522-ND (Emitter)
Cost: $.54
Digikey Part #: QSD722-ND (Sensor)
Cost: $.56

Eye Connectors/2k4 Connectors and

These are the connectors for the eyes in the 12 point wiring harness and the solenoid in the 14 point wiring harness, and the off board connectors in the 2k4 harnesses.

I doubt anyone on these boards wants or needs these, considering you need the $180 crimpers to use them, but what the hell.

Molex Part Number: 51021-0200 (Female)
Molex Part Number: 51047-0200 (Male)
Molex Part Number: 50058-8000 (female tin)
Molex Part Number: 50125-8000 (male tin)

These are available on I don't know the crimper part number, but it's cross referenced when you search the connectors. I didn't look up the Digikey part numbers, as I didn't need the parts.

EDIT: Update:

Thanks to CounterMeasure for giving me the part numbers for the 12 and 14 point wiring harnesses (that is the black housing.) The other pieces should be cross referenced when you search for these parts (the crimpers and what not.)

Black Molex Harness Housings

14 Point Casing: Molex Part Number 51110-1450
12 Point Casing: Molex Part Number 51110-1250

They have these on Just search for "Molex 51110-1450" or "Molex 51110-1250".

Crimpers and Leads for the Harness Housings

Leads are digi key part number WM18056-ND

Crimper is digi key part number WM18057-ND

Thanks to FranceOnFire for the crimpers and leads!

EDIT: Update:

I've just found out the part number for the stock on/off switch for the Intimidator, thanks to CounterMeasure!

Stock on/off switch for the 14 pt. harness

Digi-Key part number: EG1201A

$ 0.71 each

I'll try to update this when I find more information.

Last edited by invader zim : 08-11-2004 at 09:43 AM.
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Old 08-17-2004, 10:32 PM #39
invader zim
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No one really reads the FAQ, but I'd like to define a few things for the Intimidator.

Feel free to correct anything I write, I'm doing this from the best of my knowledge.


Bounce is the generic term given to extra trigger events. It can be classified into "electronic bounce" and "mechanical bounce."

Electronic Bounce:
Electronic bounce is basically improper closure of the circuit, causing multiple signals to be sent to the board. The microswitch is part of a circuit, when it's closed the signal tells the gun to fire.

Debounce is a software filter used to ignore certain signals from the microswitch. Your debounce setting is an amount of time for the board to ignore signals from the microswitch, because you cannot be pulling that fast. Debounce 2 is basically ignoring the trigger for 2 ms, so on and so forth. So theoretically, with bounce your microswitch could be tripping 25 times a second, but the board is ignoring 10 of those events because they occur during "ignore" periods.

Mechanical Bounce:
Mechanical bounce refers to extra trigger events caused by physical movement of the trigger. Basically, as your gun fires, it recoils, this movement can be enough to activate the microswitch. Causing an extra trigger event.

Mbounce is another filter that is used to screen trigger events, it doesn't lower the amount of recoil you gun has, or make the gun physically do anything else. Much like debounce, it filters out extra trigger events, because physical movement of the trigger takes more time than an incomplete circuit, Mbounce isn't as finely adjustable.

Ramping is the generic term given to the increase in BPS or FPS by means of cheating or otherwise modifying a gun.

Physical vs. Programmed:
This is my own distinction, people should understand the differences, because they are VERY important to manufacturer's credibility.

Physical ramping isn't necessarily intended, it can occur due to wear and tear or through intentional modification. Due to the nature of microswitches, physical ramping is the result of bounce.

Bounce isn't a linear function, most likely is someone graphed it, it would look like an exponential equation. For those of you unfamiliar with that term, it would look like this:

Basically, as your speed on the trigger increases, the microswitch is closed for a shorter amount of time, it is already bouncing opened and closed, causing bounce. So your debounce may be enough to counter bounce at lower rates of fire, but inherently, at higher rates of fire, you will be getting more extra trigger events outside the ignore period.

(If you've seen a "pro's" gun take off, and then they have to hit it, it's probably bounce not ramping. I HIGHLY doubt their 'super secret ramping code' is activated/deactivated by whacking their gun)

Programmed ramping is actual code written into the board's software telling the gun to shoot at a higher ROF or FPS when "x" event occurs. Only people with access to the code can even begin to understand how to accomplish this.

Rumor Mill:

I've heard of "ramping" boards that can "detect" the NPPL robot and chronographs. While this is possible, I find it highly unlikely, because of cost. The few ways I could even imagine the board detecting a robot or chronograph would be expensive and require hardware the board doesn't have. If anyone buys one of these guns, please take a picture of the inside.

It seems if someone were willing to take the time and effort to cheat, they would just use a sequence of trigger events to activate or deactivate the "cheater code." Most boards ALREADY support programming via the trigger, and it wouldn't require any additional hardware.

(Come to think of it, why don't Frenzies support programming via the trigger? Maybe someone will stumble upon the embedded Oakland Assassin trigger sequence and start up the ramping software that the "pro's" use!)

Mod: Feel free to edit the editorials, but not the content, if you please.
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Old 09-09-2004, 01:45 PM #40
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Smile PROFESSIONAL Alias TECH Advise! Enjoy.

Here's some legit info from two top techs.

1) 80psi is recommended for older Timmy's, but the Alias has a higher flowing solenoid & barbs allowing lower LPR setting around 70psi. Yes or No?

2) Will an Alias LPR operate & disadvantages at 50psi?

3) Does the dwell need adjusted to run 50-70psi?

4) 450psi is recommended from the tank, but I've seen, read and heard many people going lower. What's the lowest tank pressure output without dropoff?

5) Is there a newer version Alias manual and what settings are best for dwell, BIP, etc?

6) How do I find the best settings myself concerning dropoff, efficiency, dwell, etc?

7) Does the VP teflon bolt effect effeciency. I've read any bolt without the orings causes worse chronos and effeciency.

I & my team use Violent Products' delrin pistons for months with +-2 chronos. They should come stock as they stop the metal shavings, spiking & reg damage.

Originally posted by Frenzyfoe
1. Yes
2. U'll get FSDO sometimes if it on 50
3. No normal setting are the only way u need it
4. About 250
5. Bob is still using his old manual and the reg setting are fine
6. Set pressure to about 70-80 and ull be good to go

Originally posted by Calin
- Mega Moderator & Touring Infamous Gun Tech
1.) You should run intimidators between 70-90 depending on your intimidator.
2.) I've tuned it down to 55psi. But the less pressure you have the slower the marker.
3.) Nope I ran my dwell at 8ms.
4.) I only use screw ins because adjustables are an inconvenience. the ones we use on Infamous push out 450-500 psi.
5.) A newer one is due to be released, I don't know the release date.
6.) Run it stock and adjust accordingly. 99.9% of the time stock settings are the best.
7.) The Teflon bolt will result in a little loss of velocity about 5fps is the average of the newer ones. But its material should decrease cycle time.
Hope that helps.

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Last edited by dueydog : 09-09-2004 at 09:27 PM.
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Old 09-26-2004, 08:15 PM #41
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Standard Regulator Protocall!!!

If you are having cositency problems or issues/problems with velocity, you should try the following:

First off change out the O-rings for the Pin Valves on BOTH Regs!!!

This is probably the most overlooked part on the entire gun.

Next, take out your springs and grind down the sharp edges using a dremel into as smooth a finish as possible. Next take some FINE GRIT Polishing compound and polish the spring using a combination of three brushes. The Gold colored brush, the Silver brush, and the Black Bristle brush until you achieve a smoth shiny finish.

Once you're done with all that, SPARINGLY Lube the outer surface of the spring and then SPARINGLY Lube the inner wall of the Reg body. Next Polish the Piston USING "ONLY" the Polishing Compound and the white buffing attachment and Lube it as usual.

I personally run an Empire ASA Block (same as ALIAS internally) with a CP or Bob Long Volumizer and an ALIAS LPR with the Dual -O-Ring Piston, and i'm always +/- 2 at the most. It always stays where I set it, so I can degass and Air up the marker as many times as possible and BOTH my regs always, ALWAYS read the same pressures.

Also, just as imprtant...

Consistency will come ONLY when you've achieved the proper LPR/HPR pressure combination/balance. What this means is that if you set your Torpedo (HPR) to say 270psi and then adjust your LPR to 85psi and you get a fairly good 280fps, upping the Torpedo pressure alone to try to increase your VELOCITY, chances are you will have a fluctuation in consistency upwards of +/- 5. This is because you must also tune your LPR to work in synchronicity with the HPR. If you Turn one up the other must go either down or up. Just play with them until you see the numbers stabilize on the chrono.

EVERY MARKER is different and thus every marker will require a different setup.

The way I do it is to go to the Chrono Station and begin with Both regs turned all the way out (OFF), and then set my Torpedo to about 200psi and then set my LPR to around 70psi and go from there. Generally I set my Torpedo to 270psi and then my LPR ends up at around 60-65psi, depending on the outside temperature.

But I must go up and down in those areas until i get that Ever-Elusive CONSISTENCY!

That's the best I can explain it.

Now go polish those springs!!!
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Old 11-06-2004, 08:28 PM #42
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Found this in a thread, sounds helpfull.. Im not taking any credit for finding the vid..just thought it should be added

How To unlock DB 1 Video
Originally posted by kidcopone

Thought this may help alot of people that arent familiar with their was boards

Last edited by tim's timmy : 11-06-2004 at 08:31 PM.
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