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Old 06-21-2005, 03:55 PM #1
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Diablo Wrath/AR-1 General Maintenance

Diablo Wrath General Maintenance

Lubricants: Do not use lightweight liquid paintball marker oil in the Wrath. Paintball oil is best used in blowback markers to lubricate the hammer, which is a large steel cylinder sliding rapidly within the aluminum marker body. O-ring greases are best suited for the Wrath’s many small o-rings throughout the gun. Dow 33 grease, also known in paintball as Shocker grease, works well. Also, Battle Lube grease is very good, has a lower viscosity than Dow 33 (which means it’s more slippery), and lasts longer between applications.

HPR: Apply a liberal coating of grease to the HPR large aluminum piston. It is accessed by removing the bottom half of the regulator from the top half, then grabbing the end (inside the bottom half) with small pliers and pulling out. Be sure to insert the aluminum piston back into the regulator bottom the correct way, with the cupped tip of the piston facing up toward the top half of the regulator.

LPR: Apply a liberal coating of grease to the o-rings on the LPR’s large brass piston, as well as to the small o-ring on the long skinny brass piston. Each piston is accessed from opposite ends of the LPR. It is necessary to remove the LPR valve retaining nut from the threaded end of the LPR body to access the long skinny brass piston. This retaining nut has a small amount of Loctite applied to keep it in place. The LPR body should be removed from the gun, and the low-pressure hose fitting should be unscrewed from its side before placing the LPR body into a vice. Wrapping a thin towel or old t-shirt around the LPR body before putting it into the vice and clamping securely should prevent any scratching or marring to the LPR’s exterior surface. When reinserting the retaining nut, it is not necessary to apply Loctite. Make sure the retaining nut’s ground face is inward making contact with the spring, and that the retaining nut is as close to flush with the end of the LPR body as possible. Hand tightening the retaining nut is sufficient.

LPR Adapter: It is not necessary to remove the LPR adapter, held in by one M5x12 screw in the body in front of the vertical ASA, to perform regular maintenance. The only time it is necessary to remove this adapter is to access the cup seal and main valve. Be sure when reinserting the LPR adapter that you apply a small amount of grease to its two o-rings, and do not cut the o-rings when they are passing the mounting screw hole.

Solenoid/Low-Pressure Valve Assembly: Disassemble the Low-Pressure Valve Assembly from the Solenoid and grease all four o-rings inside. The two inner o-rings on the brass carrier make contact with the plunger piston which controls air flow, and should receive a liberal application of grease. The outer o-rings on the brass carrier are stationary and only need a small amount of grease to ease reassembly. When reinserting the carrier into the valve body, position one of the side air exit holes inline with the hose fitting in the valve body. When reinserting the plunger piston into the carrier, be sure the piston goes in with the grooved end in first. When reinserting the Solenoid/Low-Pressure Valve Assembly back into the trigger frame, make sure the Solenoid/Low-Pressure Valve Assembly is pushed as far forward toward the trigger switch as possible when tightening down the two set screws. If the Solenoid/Low-Pressure Valve Assembly comes loose or the solenoid plunger is in contact with the trigger frame, it may not permit the Low-Pressure Valve’s plunger piston to close and create a proper seal. This may cause a small leaking sound, or may even cause the bolt to rapidly cycle when the marker is first aired up.

Ram: Apply a liberal coating of grease to the o-ring on the small end of the ram.

Bolt: Keep the bolt clean and dry at all times. It is unnecessary to grease the bolt. Grease on the bolt will collect dust particles from the air and cause scratching of the inner surface of the body.
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Last edited by toolshed rec-face : 06-24-2005 at 02:24 PM.
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Old 06-21-2005, 11:44 PM #2
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Lets keep this sticky clean so that it will be usable for everyone. Anything off topic please keep it to PM's. Thanks for the understanding.
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Old 06-22-2005, 12:16 PM #3
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Hey toolshed. You should take that picture of the full breakdown of the gun and photoshop some arrows in there of the specific parts that need to be lubed.
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Old 06-22-2005, 01:01 PM #4
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I was also told to lube the asa. Should I or should I not do this with the wrath.
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Old 06-22-2005, 01:16 PM #5
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Old 06-22-2005, 02:16 PM #6
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Lubing the ASA makes as much sense as lubing the grips.
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Old 06-22-2005, 11:47 PM #7
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Here is a way to fix the little problem of the noid not clicking. It's hapened to me and it's also helped out a couple people that had this same problem.

QUOTE]Originally posted by diablowrath678
that happened to mine, i sent it in or you can try moving the solenoid forward

edit:

take off the frame and grip (dont want to break the eye leads)
lossen the 2 noid set screws.
slide the noid forward a bit and tighten it down. (I took mine out first when i did this but i dont think you have to and its a pain to get it back in)(not death grip tight)
turn it on, turn the sensor off
and click away. if it dont work try a new batt. or the noid may be fried you have to send it in to get it fixed
[/quote]

You also may have to move the noid left to right, not just forward or back.

Thanks a lot to diablo678 and the others who have helped with this problem.
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Old 06-23-2005, 09:44 AM #8
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The LP valve is the front portion of the noid. They are actualy 2 seperate things, the noid is the electromagnet that throws the plunger forward, and the lp valve is what the plunger hits.
Here is how to remove and service it (I'm doing this by memory so if anythings wrong toolshed please correct me! )
First, disconnect the lp line so you can remove the lp valve from the gun.

1. Loosen the two set screws at the top of the noid like you would to adjust it. Then carefully unplug the noid wires to give yourself some slack while working. Remove the solenoid from the lcd side carefully. be careful with the yellow noid wires, as they are very brittle so don't bend them a lot at all. The plunger will just fall out if you flip it over so set it aside for now.

2. There are two small black screws holding the solenoid to the LP valve, Remove these with a small screwdriver and carefully seperate the two pieces.

3. You should now have a plunger, a big round solenoid, and The LP valve. there is a small brass disk around the valve pin in the LP valve. This may also fall out if It is turned over. You want it out anyway so also set it aside. Once the brass piece is removed, It should reveal the O-ring causing you problems, and more of the valve pin.

4. To remove the valve pin, Grasp it with the tips of your fingers and pull outward. It may be difficult to to with your fingers but I would use pliers to avoid micking it up. OK, now make sure you remember which way the valve pin was facing there is a normal side and a side with a slot. I don't remember which way it goes in off the top of my head and I don't feel like pulling apart my noid just to find out lol. Just make sure you notice what side goes in first and what side comes in contact with the o-ring.

5. When you pull the pin out, the o-ring should come with it. In front if that pin, In the tip of the valve housing there is a small spring, this is the spring that returns everything into the firing position. Also in front of that, I believe there is a small brass piece that sits doown in the hole at the VERY tip of the lp housing.

6. You can also pull out the entire brass valve in there, but I don;t think you need too lube the o-rings on that. It is basically the same as the normal valve in the gun. I used the hooked tip of a scribe to remove mine gently b/c I had to rebuild my noid a while ago.

7. Now, make sure the spring is sitting nice and straight in there, and lube up the main o-ring in the front of the valve that was removed wit the pin. Place it in its little seat, then replace the valve pin, remembring which way it went in. Make sure everything is seated right, then put the brass disk on over it.

8. Now to do a little test, while pressing soen in the brass dist with one hand, use something like the tip of a screwdriver, or better yet the plunger, and press on the valve pin making sure it returns.

9. After lubing everything, It should return fine soo you can now take the solenoid, Line up the holes, and replace the screws. Make sure the screws are snug, but don;t strip them out that would suck.

10. Now that everything is back together, Put the plunger in the back of the solenoid, re-install the solenoid into the trigger frame, plug it in, push it forward with a flat head screwdriver to give the plunger some room, and tighten the screws.

You are now ready for another 10,000 shots and have just taken apart the most intricate part of the gun (besides the board) and it wasn;t even that bad was it? Just make sure you don;t bend the yelloe wires to bad, they are liable to break. Well thats how you rebuild the solenoid in detail.
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Old 06-25-2005, 02:41 AM #9
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isnt this alot like my maintaining your wrath 101 thread but it finally got recognized? btw toolshed good work. mine was just a splash in the water never got any good feedback.
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Old 06-26-2005, 01:14 PM #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigpapapump
I was also told to lube the asa. Should I or should I not do this with the wrath.
i did didn't do anything bad works great still so i think it wont damage anything
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Old 06-27-2005, 08:52 PM #11
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I tend to disagree with most of what was said here. When I tried going from synthetic oil to Dow-33 in my Wrath it lead to a noticeable decrease in consistency at the chrono and a steadily-worstening problem of first shot drop off. Cleaning off the grease and shooting fresh oil through the ASA remedied the problem immediately.
I can't imagine why you wouldn't want to lubricate an aluminum bolt in an aluminum receiver. If anything, I would say that the Wrath's bolt is the part most in need of being greased or oiled.
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Old 06-28-2005, 12:40 PM #12
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so inflicted, dont use dow 33? what kind of lube should i use for the orings on a delrin bolt and the ram then?
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Old 06-28-2005, 09:33 PM #13
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First off, I don't claim to be an authority on this by any means. After all, I don't work for NPS.

I'm using PMI Extreme Rage synthetic oil for the ram. Not sure about the O-rings on a plastic bolt. Mine fits so tightly without them, when I add the O-rings it won't cycle at all. You might want to use Dow33 for that but I don't know.

An alternative to Dow33 you might want to look into is MUGG grease from TAG. It's a FAR superior lubricant.
http://www.tagsportz.com/product_inf...products_id=32
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Old 06-28-2005, 10:09 PM #14
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is that pmi rage stuff jsut like gold cup?
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Old 06-28-2005, 10:17 PM #15
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Probably.
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Old 06-29-2005, 07:53 AM #16
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[quote=The Inflicted]An alternative to Dow33 you might want to look into is MUGG grease from TAG. It's a FAR superior lubricant.QUOTE]
Don't know what that is, but I've never liked Dow 33 myself. Used to use white lithium grease all the time on Angels, then carried that over to other guns. Then I found Battle Lube. It's cheap, and it's really good.
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Old 07-02-2005, 01:16 AM #17
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toolshed, what lube should i use on my noid, and, just found out that my noid is fried, took it apart, lubed it(empire gun oil) and it still won't work, can i just send in my noid to nps, or do i have to send in my whole gun?
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Old 07-02-2005, 03:03 AM #18
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i dn't really get how to lube the solenoid, i dissembled it but only found 2 o-ring (1 i couldn't get to). can you show a diagram, i took everyting off by the way. o yeah and one of my o-rings broke on my lpr adapter, what size should i get if i were to go to home depot
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