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Old 01-16-2005, 04:17 AM #22
JoshGrrrr
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I did a dual finish one time, part was beadblasted, part was polished.

Electrical tape works much better than masking tape.

Just tape off the area that you want to keep from being polished, then polish the rest.

Make sure the tape is pressed down very firmly, and I'd polish by hand if I were you. A drill would pull the tape off to easily.
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Old 01-16-2005, 11:04 AM #23
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thanx man
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Old 02-12-2005, 08:29 PM #24
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or if you got an lythe put some 1200 grade paper, to get out scratches, or to buff put some compounds on the fabrik
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Old 02-14-2005, 02:58 PM #25
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Keep working on those hooked on phonics bro. ^. I use a grinding wheel with a buffing wheel. I usually start with 240 grit, then 520, then 800, then 2000 grit. Then I take it to the wheel with alot of compund on it and it produces a mirror finish.
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Old 02-14-2005, 03:22 PM #26
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yea well thasts for minor scrateches
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Old 02-26-2005, 12:00 AM #27
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i used steal wool on my tippy a-5's internal, it worked great. Now i have to have velocity screw all the way in just to keep it from goin over 300 fps.
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Old 03-07-2005, 07:02 PM #28
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Wouldnt a wire wheel heat up the aluminum? Ive got a beadblasted DM3 sitting here and i dont know what to do with it....
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Old 04-01-2005, 09:59 AM #29
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i just sanded the inside up to 2000 grit and then polished it with the dremel. i forgot to use my rubbing compound. anyways the tippmann 98 is smoother now . i guess i can go that part another bad
steel wool would work well. metal on metal.
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Old 04-02-2005, 11:34 AM #30
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I don't know if this was already said, but if it wasn't here is a guide I found to polishing the stock barrel on the Pro/Carbine (probably will work for other guns too.)


Polishing: Stock Barrel
What it does: Reduces friction in barrel.
Materials:
-Drill with drill bit (bit size can vary to fit screws thread size)
-Plastic coat hanger
-Scrap cloth
-Wood screw (screws head should not be larger than the diameter of the coat hanger)
-Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish
-Hacksaw or cutters of some sort
-Electrical tape
Note: This gets really messy.

1. Take the plastic coat hanger and cut the straight part of it out.
2. In one end of the coat hanger, tap a hole for your screw with the drill bit.
3. Get just enough cloth so that it fits snugly in the barrel.
4. Screw the patch of cloth onto the top of the coat hanger.
5. Take the electrical tape, and tape over the ports in your barrel.
6. Insert the end of the coat hanger that doesn't have the cloth on it into the drill.
7. Apply a very generous amount of the metal polish into the barrel and onto the cloth.
8. Now crank up the drill and polish the barrel until it has a mirrory shine on the inside.

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Old 04-02-2005, 08:17 PM #31
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Quote:
Originally posted by Casualties Army
Wouldnt a wire wheel heat up the aluminum? Ive got a beadblasted DM3 sitting here and i dont know what to do with it....
i have stuff...i can polish it to a mirror...dont let any metal touch it....just sandpaper fromk 420-2000 and a buffing wheel.....
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Old 04-27-2005, 11:35 AM #32
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pictures?
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Old 04-29-2005, 09:42 AM #33
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i have a shocker and i was wondering if sand blasting the body would be a bad way to strip the anno because i want it to have a dust white lookin color without the expence of getting it reannoed and i can sand blast it for free at my school so if u have an anwser for me it would be greatly appreciated
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Old 04-29-2005, 10:11 AM #34
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I suggest beadblasting over sandblasting. Sandblasting removes alot more material than beadblasting and you can easily ruin your body if you arent careful.

It will have a frosty white look when done, but it scratches so easily that it is useless. Raw aluminum scratches very very easily. Beadblasted raw aluminum scratches even easier. I can scratch a line in beadblasted aluminum with my fingernail.
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Old 04-30-2005, 12:52 AM #35
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to polish the bolt, rap the small end with black tape. and chuck in to an cordless drill, use 240 then 400 wet sand paper. and finsh with mothers wheel polish and a clean cotten towel.
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Old 06-01-2005, 12:35 PM #36
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there's a few with .0004 tolerance.
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Old 06-08-2005, 01:01 PM #37
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Im not sure if this is the right place for this but here it goes.
I want to turn my double trigger into a blade style one. (like just flat) i want to get rid of teh ridge in the middle.
I can do that but how would i go about polishing it?
I have a dremel what else do i need?
Would it be better to just get it rechromed?
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Old 06-12-2005, 11:46 AM #38
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can i get this done at aplusannodizing?
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Old 07-10-2005, 03:04 AM #39
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would silver polish work for this aswell
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Old 08-05-2005, 03:58 PM #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoshGrrrr
I don't think I have ever seen a paintball barrel that was even close to holding that tolerance. I don't think you will find any that hold a .001 tolerance. Much less a tenth.

Do you have any idea how large a tenth of an inch is? That tolerance would mean that a ".68" barrel could be anywhere between .58-.78, none of which would fit a paintball.

And yes, within a brand of barrel (not stock barrels or 32* cheap stuff) the tolerances are indeed 1/1000 of an inch. It really isnt that hard when you have the proper tooling to make it.
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Old 09-11-2005, 07:13 PM #41
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I polish internals with 800 grit to get out the big wear, then 1000 to polish it off, then take a cloth and polish the part with some Mothers Mag Polish (this stuff pwns).

You can get said sand paper and polish at most auto part stores. (AutoZone ect)
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Old 10-01-2005, 07:18 PM #42
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I was talking to the owner of PbCustomz about anodizing my gun from dust blue to gloss blue. He stated that all he had to do was polish the gun and parts and it would look as if it were gloss blue. I would like the color to come out like the le gloss blue dm4 color, that is what I am aiming for. He said, yes, he could do that without anodizing and just by polishing. So, my questions are, can this be done? And if so, how would you go upon doing so? I already have a dremel, I can go buy a polishing head and mothers mag polish, but is that all I would really need?

Thanks,
Kyle
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