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Old 03-17-2005, 03:20 PM #1
WGP WORRACLE
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Question Turtle Osiris Settings

Hello. I was wondering what you guys with turtle Osiris's have your R.I.P. settings at? I am looking for fast settings of about 20bps and greater. I am new to the racegun frame and have some idea of what the different settings mean ( have an Eclipse frame) but don't want to screw up a brand new, and expensive gun . Oh and please don't don't give me the "every gun is different so joe shmoe's setting won't work for you" crap. I would just appreciate your HELPFUL input. And before i foget, any help you can give me with the R.I.P. program would greatly help. Me and computers don't get along well,see? that pretty much somes it up only I used a pool stick

setup: (If it helps)
Turtle Osiris with single switch STOCK OUT OF BOX
92ci 4500 tank
Empire Reloader B
Empier barrel kit
Torpedo Reg

Thanks for your time.

Oh and for you young aspirers looking for Osirisis for a good price check out Ebay or contact Ebay seller named, ductail thats who I bought my brand new turtle osiris from for $650 because no one else bid on it plus 14.95 shipping.
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Old 03-18-2005, 11:45 AM #2
baldusi
 
 
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It depends if you want to go for speed or efficiency. Since the ram is fixed diameter, if you use more bolt pressure (the top LPR), it will move faster but it will consume more air. It will also chop the balls. If you try to go to the lower bolt pressure possible, it will move slower, but will consume less air and will "pinch" the ball. If you have the Race Frame, then it must have came with the eyes. So you'd only need to have it drilled for eyes ($50 at most). The manual even comes with the schematics.

So how do you set up a Raced Osiris?
First let's recall how the Osiris is and how it works. The Osiris is a pneumatic operated, poppet valve, closed bolt, paintball gun (don't be afraid of the word gun, or having glue guns would be provoking violence). This means that you have a pneumatic ram that strikes a poppet opening a valve. This air flow impulsed the ball forward. Then you have a second ram the moves the ram back a forth, letting balls fall into the breach and then sealing it for the shot.
The events of a shot are about like this:[list=1][*] You pull the trigger.[*] It activates the ram solenoid for Shot milliseconds, which moves the ram forward stiking the valve. Now you are shooting the ball.[*] It waits Dwell milliseconds and starts to move the bolt backwards for Open milliseconds.[*] If you have eyes (i.e. ACE), it checks for a ball in the breach or waits for one, in this case Load is ignored. If you don't have eyes or you have eyes disabled, it will wait Load milliseconds.[*] It will close the bolt for Close milliseconds.[/list=1]

To recap the meaning of each part of the RIP:

Shot: The time it activates the Ram solenoid. This needs to be activated enough to open the valve, but you need to close it after you've accelerated the ball enough so you don't dispose more air than necessary.

Dwell: Between the trigger pull and the activation of the opening of the bolt.In a mecanical cocker, the reason of the Dwell is to allow for the hammer to strike the valve before the bolt goes back and cocks the hammer. In the Osiris, there's no hammer, but a pneumatic ram with no relation whatsoever to the bolt. So the Dwell time is completely irrelevant an thus, you want to minimize it (i.e. set it to 1).

Open:The time it takes the bolt to open. It's kind of self explanatory, but electronically it's added to the Load unless you have eyes. This will depend on the pressure of the top LPR.
Load: The time it keeps the bolt open. If you have eyes it will start to test the eyes for a ball after Open and you can forget about this. But if you don't, it will wait this many milliseconds and then proceed to close.
Close: The time it takes the bolt to close. Since this is a closed bolt marker, you might think that it wouldn't be that important since it will keep the solenoid of until next shot and the bolt will close anyways. And you might be right except for two situations. If you shoot before the bolt has completely closed, you'll have blowback, inconsistent velocity and/or no shot at all. The other situation is

The Setup[list=1][*]Lay your gun on a big sheet of paper over a plane surface.[*]Now unscrew both LPR so nothing will go through.[*]Air up your gun.[*]Set your HPR (aka Inline or Vertical) to 225psi. Be careful that the stock Torpedo has the gauge on the Input side and so will measure how much goes into the regulator but not on how much gets out of the regulator.[*]Connect to the computer and start the RIP.[*]Set Shot and Dwell to 1 (we don't want to shot anything yet).[*]Set Open and Close to 17 and Load to 1 and disable the ACE.[*]Set the firing mode to "Classic".[*]Load the setup into the gun.[*]Pull the trigger and keep it pulled.[*]Now slowly increase the top LPR until the bolt fully opens.[*]Mark on the sheet of paper where the bolt is when open and close.[*]Now set the firing mode to Semi and upload it.[*]Put a sheet of paper right where the bolt open mark is, so you know that the bolt will hit the sheet when it is fully open. DON'T TRY THIS WITH YOUR FINGERS.[*]Increase the LPR until ou reliably hit the sheet of paper every time.[*]Now you can try to up a bit the bolt pressure and lower the Open time. You have to always hit the sheet that marks that the bolt fully opened. Tweak until you fell comfortable. Please recall that the more pressure the more kick, speed and inefficiency. Conversely, the lower the pressure, the lower the kick and speed and the better the efficiency.[*]Now set the Firing Mode to Auto, the Load=255.[*]Put the gun stand up and put some balls in the feed neck. We want to set the Close time. But it might take some extra time since it has to move the ball detent and push the ball into the barrel (a bigger than bore paint is ideal). We have taken out the air of the ram and the sime of the solenoid. But if you heard anything like a shot don't do this step and just add 1 or 2 milliseconds to Close[*]Hold a sheet of paper between the back block and the body, almost touching the body. The idea here is that when you shoot, you can check that the bolt fully close by seeing if it hit the sheet of paper.[*]Pull the trigger and keep it until you put some 5 balls and every time you hit the sheet of paper. If you don't, increase the Close time.[*]Now you've set the the bolt pressure just right. We can start with the ram pressure. So let's set the Shot=4, Dwell,Load=1 and take any balls out of your gun.[*]Set the Firing Mode to Semi.[*]Now shoot and start increasing the bottom LPR until you have a nice complete sound of a shot but before you have a lot of kick. It's a kind of muffled cozy sound.[*]Once it's shooting nicely, just set Load to something safe for your hopper. You have to make sure that your hopper can feed this even if you have eyes. Eyes can get dirt or break down and you don't want to end up with a blender machine. So disable your eyes and put some paint though it. A table of times and hoppers can be found in the Osiris manual.[*]Go out and enjoy.[/list=1]

Last edited by baldusi : 03-18-2005 at 03:03 PM.
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Old 03-18-2005, 02:03 PM #3
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Wow - see, this is what I talk about - if we had a mod - things like this would be stickied.
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Old 03-18-2005, 03:05 PM #4
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I was hoping to get sticky. Why don't we have a mod?
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Old 03-18-2005, 11:22 PM #5
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We don't have a mod because the Admins haven't granted us one for this specific forum. I know in the past Avery and myself have petitioned to the higher-ups to have someone appointed a mod of these forums, but each call went unanswered.

In the past as well (recently), I've had some members come to me asking me questions as if I were a mod I hate saying I can't help lol.
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Old 03-19-2005, 09:13 PM #6
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Question HELP! AGAIN!

OK I followed your fine instructions to the letter but, after i set the marker to semi auto setting and upload it it shoots with each pull and release of the trigger..... my dwell is at one but all my other settings look fine. Could it be the dwell?? please help. Thanks!!
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Old 03-19-2005, 10:10 PM #7
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In semi-auto mode it shoots once with each pull and then again when you release it? As in turbo?

Also, having your dwell at 1 befuddles me...but then again, I don't know dwell + cockers.
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Old 03-19-2005, 10:52 PM #8
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Yes. would the hyper setting affect this at all???????
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Old 03-19-2005, 11:25 PM #9
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Never mind! I GOT IT!!! ALL BY MYSELF!!! WOOO HOOO!!!!! All I had to do was to upload the new firmware release and it solved the problem!!!!!! Thanks for your help though
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Old 03-20-2005, 12:05 AM #10
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Old 03-20-2005, 08:28 AM #11
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You have to think of a close bolt, two solenoid gun. The Dwell in the frame, is basically the time between activating the first solenoid (the one which makes the shot) and the second, which moves the bolt for loading.
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Old 03-22-2005, 05:02 PM #12
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well done, coudn,t have done it better myself
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Old 03-22-2005, 05:59 PM #13
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How exactly do you time the marker to "pull" the next ball into the chamber? The only explainations that I've heard should cause blowback? I'd appreciate it if someone could shed a little light on this.
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Old 03-22-2005, 10:20 PM #14
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It's called suction-timing. It's where you have the firing action and then the recocking action as close together as possible without having them overlap. That way, when the ball is fired, there is a sort of gap in the breech, then when the bolt pulls back to allow another ball to drop in, a vacuum is created, literally sucking air from the feedneck into the breech to fill the gap, thus assisting a ball into the breech.

No real advantage over a gun that can't do it but doesn't have blowback.

To do it, try to get the marker to fire (cocker I assume), then recock about 2-4ms after the action is completed.
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Old 03-22-2005, 11:17 PM #15
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Thanks Polish Guy. The main theory I've heard was similar except you have the valve open longer and then have the bolt move back before the valve closes. Not exactly the same, but close.

I've been wanting to try this Excalibur but I didn't want to hurt my efficiency (1300+ from 3K PSI fill). Some who have older ones with MAC noids (like me) can use settings that give up to 25 CPS (not BPS) but have bad blowback as a result. Nothing bad with the gun, its just the MAC noids can't provide a low enough dwell to work properly at this speed. The newer Humphrey noids can though (5-6ms vs. 10-12ms). They are roughly twice as fast. Thanks again.
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Old 03-23-2005, 07:21 AM #16
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The stock Osiris configuration should "suck" the paintballs. The idea is that after the shot, if you time the bolt to return very fast, the air in the barrel have just left, and moving the bolt so fast provokes a low pressure zone in the breech. This makes the suction effect. If you wanna test it, just put a very light paper tissue over the feedneck and make a shot. It should get "sucked in". If it flies, it's blowback. But be very carefull to put your hand between the hole for adjusting the hammer lug and the feedneck. When the bolt moves backwards, it expulses air that way.
The difficult part of achieving this in a mech cocker is that the Hammer takes a long time compared to the ram, and the pulling of the trigger is very inconsistent. If you return the bolt faster than suction, you'll be pulling out before the shot and the air will go through the breech.
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Old 03-23-2005, 01:02 PM #17
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I still have that vid laying around on my harddrive of Alex sucking a bounty towel into his breech with his 80 good times...

very good times.
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Old 03-24-2005, 01:20 PM #18
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hey if you could show me those settings i would appreciate that befcause my dwell is at 1 also so should i just updat the firmware
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Old 06-15-2005, 10:42 AM #19
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i heart baldusi for this info! life saver man! thanks!
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Old 12-29-2005, 09:30 PM #20
mrmoe999
 
 
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reprogaming the trigger

is it possible to re program the rocking trigger? If so where would I be able to get a link cable. I already know where to get the software.


Thank you
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Old 12-29-2005, 11:37 PM #21
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What are you trying to reprogram? Or in other words - what are you trying to get the gun to do?
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