Nitros How to Disassemble and clean your Excaliber [Archive]

yakitori

02-21-2005, 05:39 PM

Heres an excalibur stepthrough, The pictures might be bad, because my camra just isnt cool.
What you need:
American allen key set
Excalibur toolkit (I am useing my viking toolkit, I dont own a excal toolkit)
Flat head screwdriver
Some sort of long object that can push out a valve/hammer (wooden dowl works)
Blue Locktite
Open end cresent wrench
Some towls to whipe things off
And an Excalibur

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v188/yakitori/MG_254212.jpg

We will start off by takeing off the sidewinder, Frame, eyes, and solenoids, You dont have to take off the solenoids but if you do , Take the orings off the body (sometimes they stick to the noid) so you wont loose them:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v188/yakitori/MG_254312.jpg

Then we will take off the back caps, First the hammer side, I believe the newer excals dont use an allen key like this:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v188/yakitori/MG_254412.jpg

It might just be the 3pin tool you will use to take it off.

Next is the vavle hammer (I actually forget the name for it, lol), Its next to the cap you just took off, Start unscrewing it and once you unscrew it, just twist and pull and it should come out:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v188/yakitori/MG_254612.jpg

Whipe it off, and set it aside.

Next we will start by takeing out the cupseal, spring, and valve pin, Just start unscrewing the cap, and the cupseal/spring should come out, Sometimes the valve pin doesnt come out, it likes to stay in the valve, It will fall out sooner or later:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v188/yakitori/MG_254712.jpg

yakitori

02-21-2005, 05:44 PM

After that, You can pull the LPR out, This is the tricky part, When you pull the LPR out the orings can be clipped, When you look in the sidewinder port, after you start to pull the LPR out, It should look like this (note, this is a Viking lpr, but same principle):
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v188/yakitori/MG_24952.jpg

As you can see (kind of) the orings are being pushed out, and when you pull it out it can be clipped, You can take an allen key, and push on the orings as your pulling it out to help it slide by, (Sometimes dropping a few drops of lube in the port helps.) It's tricky and takes time to learn how to do it, but if you take your time, you should be able to pull it out, When you do whipe it down.

Next is to take out the valve, To take out the valve you have to take out the setscrew:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v188/yakitori/MG_254812.jpg

Its the black screw, not the silver one, silver is for the hammer.
Take what ever you have (I use a wooden dowl as dan voils calls it) to push out the valve, You can run into the same problem with the valve as you did with the LPR, Just try to take an allen key and push them down as they go by.

Theres one last thing to take out, Thats the hammer, This can definatly get tricky because there are multible orings you can pinch, easy. Its not a hard fix though, Take the silver screw out on the side of the marker, (holds the hammer in place.) Push it out with what you used to push the valve out, When you do, Dont push it out of the front, Your going to push the hammer out of the back of the marker, Look into where you put the bolt pin in, Thats where your problems are going to happen with the pinching, Just take an allen key and do this:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v188/yakitori/MG_255912.jpg

(Terrible quality, I know, Sorry!!)
Just take the corner of the allen key, put it twords the back of the bolt pin slot, and it should push the orings down before they get to the part where they could clip. You will do this the other way when you put it back in.

You should have all the parts out of the marker, Whipe everything down now, swab the inside, and start by putting the hammer back in.

When you put the hammer back in, try to line up where the pin for the hammer is going to go in as good as possible, Its kindof hard to do, but do the best you can, Lube the orings, ALOT, It helps alot when you push the hammer back in.When you push it back in, You are going to use the allen key trick, but on the other side of the bolt slot, Put the corner of the allenkey on top of the hammer and start to push it in, it should push the orings down so you dont have a pinching problem. Once you get the hole on the hammer lined up with the hole on the body, You might have to strighten it a little bit, Just take an allenkey and you can move it little by little, sometimes just enough to get the screw in there, then it'll strighten it out by its self.

Blue locktite the silver screw before putting it back on.

I'm gonna make it a little bit easier for my self and use a part of the stepthrough from the viking:
down, Lube the valves orings, spread it around the orings, Start putting it back in to the front of the marker, like so:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v188/yakitori/MG_25002.jpg

As you can see, the small dip on the valve is faceing where I am gonna screw the valve screw into the body. Make sure the bigger mouth end is faceing the FRONT of the marker, I've put it in backwords many times, Normally I catch it before I screw it in but I have put air through it, it just leaks alot.
You have to go through the same drill when you put the valve back in, You are risking clipping the orings, You have to do the lube/allenkey trick, While pushing in the valve, you have to push the oring down, (one by one) Kinda like this:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v188/yakitori/MG_25222.jpg

It's tricky, takes a while to get it, but you can do it. If you do clip an oring, do NOT use a tank oring on the valve, you have to get new orings from AKA, the size are 015 urathanes, (same for the LPR, and hammer cartridge)

Now you have your valve in, Next step is LPR, Use the same trick as you did on the valve, Lube the orings, take the allenkey, push the orings down, and push the LPR in.

Next put the valve pin in, Make sure the pin lands inside the valve, the spring doesnt really have to land ontop of the valve pin, and the cupseal doesnt have to line up with the spring, It all goes into place while screwing it in.

Next is the valve hammer (still donno the name for it), Just screw it into the back, lube the orings, not hard at all, put on the last little cap, and you're finished.

reinstall the solenoids, trigger frame, and eyes and your set.