Nova 700 and Super trigger work

[BeeRRunneR]

All right, lets see if I can make this sound easy . . .

The first thing you need to do is make sure your trigger is attached to the trigger rod as far forward as it will

Here is an example:

[BeeRRunneR]

make sure it is NOT like this one . . .

[BeeRRunneR]

It’s real easy to do this, just make sure the marker is DEGASED, and take off your trigger / hand guard. Now loosen the setscrew that holds the trigger to the trigger rod.

When you take off the guard, you will see this hole:

[BeeRRunneR]

Now just take a pencil or something and stick it in that hole to depress the trigger rod all the way and hold it there . . .
You can now wiggle the trigger towards the front of the frame, so that it fits like the first picture, and tighten down the setscrew.

(And since you already have your trigger / hand guard removed, go ahead and take out that safety, since this mod will negate it’s effects anyway . . .)

[BeeRRunneR]

Now comes the tricky part . . . you have to find out how much play you have in front of your trigger . . . to do this, gas up your marker, and SLOWLY pull your trigger, to see when it fires. (Don’t do this w/ paint in it, since you will probably ½ stock the trigger going so slow) This is the amount of slack that needs to be removed.



Now, to remove it, the easiest thing I found was to just find something small enough that fits in that hole (the one in the picture above) that is the same length as the slack that needs to be removed . . . that way, when you put your guard back on, what ever you have in there will push the trigger rod back, taking out all the front slack. A good way to test it, is by just holding the guard against the frame to see if the trigger will still cycle, if your spacer is too long, it will depress the trigger, or not let the trigger come back far enough to reset . . . so just be sure to test it out a little before taking it out to the field!!

(I used a pair of power tube spacers from an AutoMag and a PCI slot cover screw, and that took out ALL the front slack, but you could probably use macro line cut to the right length, or what ever else you can find just as effectively . . . pretty much just find what fits and what works)

[BeeRRunneR]

Now for the back play.

On my old 700, there was a good 1/8 inch of back play when I fist got it. The best way to test how much you have is to hold an Alan key behind the trigger, and see if it still cycles. If it does, move to the next largest Alan key, if it does not fire, move to the next smaller size until you find the one that takes out the most slack.

[BeeRRunneR]

Now just hack off about a ¼ inch of that Alan key, and glue it to the back of your trigger (take the trigger out first of course!!)



I mentioned that I did this to my 700, because my Super had a shorter trigger rod, and there was no back play to remove. I don’t know if this was stock, or something done by the previous owner . . . if you want to try it, feel free, but I don’t know if there is a difference of the 700 trigger internals vs. the Super trigger internals, so do this AT YOUR OWN RISK

[BeeRRunneR]

Are these mods ghetto ?? Yes, but do they work like a charm for me, YES!!

(I’ve heard of some of the Nova series w/ springs in front of the trigger rod, which I guess would have the same effect, but mine did not have them, so I came up w/ this . . .)

After doing these things, my trigger pull is just less then 1/16 of an inch!! Not bad for a non-electric trigger huh??

Other things I have done, I filed down the sides of my trigger so that I could put on a double trigger shoe. And that helped me increase my ROF dramatically after I did this work. If this doesn’t make much sense, please let me know, and I’ll see what I can do to make it a little more user friendly . . .

( PS, i have this saved as a word document if any body wants that instead, it reads alot better then putting all these pics in different posts . . . )

[ren]

Cool shet beerrunner! Thanks a lot! What photo program do you use? I have adobe photoshop, but it doesn't let me save files (stupid shareware) and I also have microsoft paint but that is BMP only, and pbnation only takes gif or jpgs!

As for putting something inbetween the front of the trigger frame and the trigger rod, I am going to get a spring from the hardware store and set it jussssst right. That way, it will be inbetween the trigger rod and the cutlass trigger guard on my 700, and it should cut off the slack and lighten the pull a little (but not too much because I want it to reset).

Also, a little trick I made up.... well I really need to SHOW you with a pic.... damnit.

[BeeRRunneR]

that would be plain 'ole MSpaint my friend . . . it will let you save it as a .jpg but it just doesn't do a real good job of it . . .

another really neat program is picaview you can get it from download.com (i think that's where i got it) and it does a pretty nice job of converting files . . .

as for mspaint, take a look :

[ren]

but that's where I get stuck. You see the pull-down menu you showed? Well mine has the first four shown there, but NO jpg or bmp in sight.... DAMNIT! Now what?

[Russman]

Well Ren--you can either go to download.com and get a converter, or you can send your image to me and I'll convert it for you--if you don't feel like downloading a new program.
You should already have my address, but if not, it's Russman520@earthlink.net
L8r.

[ren]

where should I look for a converter? I'd send my pics to you, but I know I would be doing it in the future, so I say screw it and I'll do the conversions myself...

can I get a specific link?

[Russman]

try this:
http://download.cnet.com/downloads/0-10077-100-893625.html?tag=st.dl.10000-103-1.lst-7-8.893625

don't know if that will work, but anyhow--just search for "image converter" at download.com
should give you more if the above link dosen't work.

[BeeRRunneR]

i really like this program, once it's installed, when ever you right click on a pic file, it shows up in the dialog box, it's pretty neat . . . and it also does conversions and wallpaper settings, etc etc

http://download.cnet.com/downloads/1,10150,0-10001-103-0-1-7,00.html?tag=srch&qt=picaview&cn=Multimedia+%26+Design&ca=10001

[ren]

thanks russman!
NO THANKS BEERRUNNER!

j/k man ;) It's just that I really don't want to pay 26 dolla for something I'm only going to use for the boards... besides, I think I can register adobe photoshop for about that much, and I think it would be much more useful. Anyway, I'm gonna draw up some pics. Thanks a lot guys.

[ren]

here it is! (let's hope...)

[ren]

and here's my super awesome idea on how to "supress" the pop of the nova firing (basically depressurizing the ball in the shroud).

[BK sr]

Hey Beerman I like getto stuff thats the only tech I know. If I cant do something like that I send to to Sean to work on. A couple of things that Ive done for my SN is ive reamed out the breach of the brass barrels. (no chop) also I drilled a hole in the loader tube to put a pin through it when I take off the barrel (saves that embarressing paint spilling out on the ground) or you can buy a Mayhem and not have those problems hee hee hee. Keep up the good work your ok despite what all those beer gussling sex craved women say about you:eek:

[BeeRRunneR]

you think i pay for software like that ?? hells no . . . i just deal w/ it . . . ( i would never dare crack a program . . . )

hehehehe they're just jealous . . . they never liked sharing . . . ;)

ghetto rocks !! it's the true definition of custom :tup:
i like that pin idea though, that would be much better then trying to hold the stupid thing upside down all the time . . . i'll look into that when i get home . . . (there's already a hole in my high rise from the air-assist bit that senoirfartman did before i bought it, so maybe i can just use that . . .)

and about the mayhem thing, i'm still looking into that . . . i'll own one of them one day i'm sure, but for now i need to get myself back in school so there goes most of my expense account :(