Tuning and setup [Archive]

Patleeman2

01-21-2006, 04:31 AM

paintballmonkey069

01-21-2006, 12:31 PM

the guys at FEP have tried to make this gun very easy to maintain and setup.... grease i would say dow 33 or something like that

haser

01-21-2006, 02:03 PM

Hey guys

I've been reading up on this marker and i really didn't want to venture into the large quest thread so i thought i'd post this up for those interested and for my own personal interest.

Tuning and setup.

I see that there is a LPR on the marker, so i'm guessing unlike a shocker tuning takes a bit of touch.

Now i've gone from DM to freestyle and i've been on both ends of the tuning nightmare.

Q1: How difficult/easy is it to tune the quest? Does it tune like a DM where you just set the LPR and leave it? OR do you tune it like a freestyle where you have to readjust it with every HPR change?

Q2: What is the reccomended lube to use on the marker?

Q3: Any special maintaince instructions?

Q4: Do the regs need to be lubed frequently, infrequently?

I can't think of anymore right now, but this marker looks like a winner.

A1: The quest is very easy to tune. Once the LPR is properly set at 90 psi you are set. From then on you adjust your velocity from your HPR.

A2: We use dow 55 oring grease on the Quest.

A3: Keep it lubed and clean the eyes good if they get dirty. With the simple bolt pin combo maintaince is simple and can be done in about a minute. Just use a 1/4" alan wrench to remove the polt pin (please make sure the marker is degassed). Use your index finger to remove the bolt. Remove old grease. Grease liberaly. Replace bolt and pin. That's it.

A4: The HPR and LPR do not require frequent maintaince. If you notice any pressure fluctuations you can grease the Piston O-rings.

I hope this helps you out. If you have any more questions you can post them or give us a call M-F 9-5 at (805)487-5297

Thanks for your support.
Rich
FEP Production Monkey

paintballmonkey069

01-21-2006, 06:57 PM

rich, i am thinkin if you were to put the manual up here it would solve some of these threads..... but i cant wait to get my hands on one of these gats...... maybe by june

haser

01-21-2006, 10:48 PM

rich, i am thinkin if you were to put the manual up here it would solve some of these threads..... but i cant wait to get my hands on one of these gats...... maybe by june

i'll see what I can do to make that happen on Monday.

Thanks for the suggestion

Rich
FEP Production Monkey

paintballmonkey069

01-21-2006, 11:29 PM

netime cuz i really wanna read up on this gun b4 i buy one cuz i really want one....

aceofspades05

01-24-2006, 12:37 PM

if i have to ill scan my manual but i have one of the first ones and there isnt much to it lol, there was just enough to let you know what the gun was about and it left you to have common sence about the rest, sucks for those without common sence but i got the idea

Physcojosh

01-24-2006, 01:55 PM

you know what they say.. common sense aint to common..

aceofspades05

01-24-2006, 03:22 PM

oh so true

BigBlackZach

02-10-2006, 11:20 AM

how offten do u have to lub the bolt some one said 1,000 shots

cjs9485

02-10-2006, 12:33 PM

how offten do u have to lub the bolt some one said 1,000 shots
That's what they say but like someone said before I'm sure they don't mean do it in the middle of a game or anything. I do it after every game it takes a matter of seconds. Very Very Easy.

Physcojosh

02-10-2006, 01:46 PM

When i first got mine, i let everyone "Test It" which Broke in my regs! Muahah mindless slaves! Err I used my qhole can of Dow.. which was just like a .. Squirt.... but i probly got 2-3 cases thru it the first day!

i lube mine usually at the end of the day, or after every case. i spend maybe a minute of my day doing it... and id usually be sitting there relaxing anyway lol

aceofspades05

02-10-2006, 02:18 PM

you can get over 1000 shots but as said above, its REALLY easy to do it so by the end of every case try to do it and it differs with each type of lube, i use shocktech, i can get a case out of it easy but to be sure that i dont run dry i do every 1k shots ish

bronc.v2

02-10-2006, 02:49 PM

I have my Quest and out of the box I had to set the dwell at 15ms and set the LPR to 100psi to get it to cycle without bolt stick or FSDO. I've relubed the gun several times. I've tried a lot of lube and next to no lube and everywhere in between.

After scratching my head for a bit I took my bolt out and looked inside. It looks like I had some metal shaving stuck in one of my air ports at the back of the gun. I used a dental pic to remove them, but I'm still having this problem.

I'm going to take the Solenoid off tonight and check to see if there may be more shavings on that side of the hole causing the bolt stick and FSDO.

Anyone else had this problem?

I'm also getting a lot of BLACK goo around the outside of my bolt. I've cleaned it several times and relubed it, but this goo keeps coming back.

Anyone seen this either?

So far I've put about 2 cases through it, and besides having to set the dwell and LPR so high, it shoot great.

Suggestions?

KMA

02-10-2006, 04:08 PM

I've seen the "goo" too. It kind of looks like the orings are melting... ???

cjs9485

02-10-2006, 04:14 PM

I've seen the "goo" too. It kind of looks like the orings are melting... ???
I seen it too I'm not sure what that is, but it looks as though it's on the outside of the bolt guide. I don't see any on the inside of the guide.

aceofspades05

02-10-2006, 04:20 PM

I seen it too I'm not sure what that is, but it looks as though it's on the outside of the bolt guide. I don't see any on the inside of the guide.
yeah ive got it too, never was sure what it was but never gave me an issue, hmm interesting thought it was just me

KMA

02-10-2006, 04:24 PM

I seen it too I'm not sure what that is, but it looks as though it's on the outside of the bolt guide. I don't see any on the inside of the guide.
Right... seems to only be on the outside of the bolt. :xeyed:

aceofspades05

02-10-2006, 04:41 PM

its under my solenoid too (inbetween the solenoid and the body)

cjs9485

02-10-2006, 04:49 PM

its under my solenoid too (inbetween the solenoid and the body)
I'm sure it's nothing but I hope someone from FEP can drop their two cents in.

YimSta007

02-10-2006, 05:27 PM

Yup i got that black goo to. I thought it was the orings lol.

dyematrixgunna

02-10-2006, 05:38 PM

yep i got it to and so does my friend with a quest. on his quest i think it actually is the o-rings though because after everytime he uses it the orings become tiny.

bronc.v2

02-10-2006, 05:43 PM

Well I'm glad it's not just me seeing the goo. I hope it's not that black slime from the X-files, lol! :P

I would place a guess and say it's from the orings, but you don't see it on Shockers or DMs, and they work the same way. I wonder if it's just dirt/funk in the marker from it being milled and it goes away after a while.

I'm sure someone form FEP will chime in here pretty quick. If we're all seeing it, I'm sure they've seen it to.

Besides the goo, anyone else had the FSDO and/or bolt stick problems?

Just wondering what people have their dwell and LPR set it. At 15 is eats more gas, but I'm hoping I can get it tuned and turned down.

KMA

02-10-2006, 06:02 PM

It seems the inside of the body could be smoother (like the inside of a barrel). What does a shocker or DM look like inside?

jackturner

02-10-2006, 07:10 PM

It's possibly the oil/grease that comes in the solenoid. Every viking I have owned had stuff come out of the solenoid for the first few cases. It eventually cleans itself out. Just a possibility

5 cross your lip

02-10-2006, 07:11 PM

cjs9485

02-10-2006, 07:20 PM

i get my quest on mon.and i have some ?.........does the quest have to be set at 90psi?unlike my dm5 i run it at 65psi,and my timmy at 60psi..so is it possible to run the lpr at a lower psi to control kick and ball breaks in the breach
Mine runs on 90psi but that's just the way I have mine setup right now. I have seen one run at a 65psi I'm supposing they did different adjustments.

isnt_it_ION-ic

02-11-2006, 10:41 AM

i also have the black goo, i wiped it off and thuroghly cleaned the inside of the gun and relubed it with DOW 33 and the blackness has gone away. oh and i don't have a guage on my LPR how do i know when its at 90?

p8ntball-kid21

02-13-2006, 08:35 PM

I get that whenever I haven't lubed my DM for awhile. I think it's from the o-rings' friction wearing the rubber away.

aceofspades05

02-14-2006, 07:05 PM

The black residue is the orings. It is no big deal and as they wear they just create a little mixture of black with the grease. Wipe it off and apply fresh grease. It only happens on the 2 017 bold orings, change those to urethane and youll be set.

YimSta007

02-14-2006, 07:08 PM

Hey ace, isnt buna slicker than Urethane?

Just wondering. Cause i heard different comments on this.

aceofspades05

02-14-2006, 07:21 PM

Hey ace, isnt buna slicker than Urethane?

Just wondering. Cause i heard different comments on this.
neil himself is the one who gave me this information, they are considering switching over to urethane, now personally i have no f'n idea which is which all i know is that i just ordered a bunck of 017 orings in urethane, now i didnt know the next 2 numbers after the 017 but he had mentioned to me they used very comon orings, the 2 numbers that follow the 017 are the ones that determine thickness but since the tried to use common ones i got the ones that are most used and pray they are the right ones, but urethane should solve it

not a clue what buna is lol, sorry not that educated in orings

YimSta007

02-14-2006, 07:26 PM

aceofspades05

02-14-2006, 07:37 PM

Can you try to get me those numbers? I have a few urethane 017 which are used in my pm6/dm6. I could try it out this weekend.

However many people at the Dye forum are switching out there urethane with Buna (the normal black ones) because buna are more slicker thus giving them the ability to lower there lpr down by 2 turns and dwell down by like 2.

Can anyone that knows orings help me out???

Thanks!
ill see what i can do, i dont care how slick the orings are, thats what my lube is for, sure if thats true about buna its a better way to go just replace them as they wear but i'd rather not have to worry about the orings like i do in my dm, if my new orings come in and are correct, ill give you those numbers else ill know what the numbers should be

P. Dolla

02-21-2006, 04:48 PM

you know what they say.. common sense aint to common..
sense - common = common sense

6speed

02-22-2006, 11:51 AM

I used 2 green 17 o-rings that I got out of my shocker o-ring kit and haven't seen the goo since.

KMA

02-24-2006, 07:29 PM

I heard a lot of people having good luck with x-rings, so I bought a bunch. I'm getting rid of the extra (had to buy in bulk). Let me know if anyone is interested. I'm not looking to get rich, just to make my money back. :)

YimSta007

02-24-2006, 07:39 PM

i cant say that i agree with everything that site says. X-rings are made for seals not for movement. I used some in my DM6 on the outer orings. To get the bolt in took A LOT of force.

But if you are having good results let me know. Cause i have some xrings lying around that i can just stick in my quest.

KMA

02-24-2006, 08:08 PM

Why would you say "X-rings are made for seals not for movement"? That contradicts everyone else...

Found this on another website (Quad-Rings = X-rings):

The Advantages of Quad-Ring® Seals

- There are two sealing surfaces to give a positive seal with less friction. Due to an improved pressure profile over Quad-Ring® Seal cross-section, a high sealing effect is achieved.
- The recessed mold parting line provides no flash or parting line on the surface of the seal and ensures "zero leakage." What's more, a lubricant reservoir formed between the sealing lips improves performance at start-up.
- The quad cross-section resists spiral twisting and extrusion. Due to its special profile, the seal does not tend to twist in the groove during reciprocating movement.
- Twice the sealing surface means less radial squeeze is needed to create an effective seal resulting in less friction, less wear and longer service life.

Typical Applications for Quad-Ring® Seals

Quad-Ring® Seals are primarily used in dynamic sealing applications limited only by the pressure to be sealed and the velocity. They do have use in some static seal applications as well.

- As a dynamic seal for sealing of reciprocating pistons, rods, plungers, etc.
- As a dynamic seal for sealing oscillating, rotating, or spiral movements on shafts, spindles, rotary transmission leadthroughs,etc.
- As a radial-static seal for bushings, covers, pipes, etc.
- As an axial-static seal, e.g. for flanges, plates, caps, etc.
- As an energizer element for elastomer-energized hydraulic seals where the risk of the twisting exists.

YimSta007

02-24-2006, 08:20 PM

well guess im wrong. Im gonna try this xring tomorrow then.

KMA

02-24-2006, 08:33 PM

well guess im wrong. Im gonna try this xring tomorrow then.
Be sure to report back! :)

I have practice on Sunday, I'll left everyone know how the X-rings worked out for me.

p8ntball-kid21

02-24-2006, 09:04 PM

I know urethane lasts longer than buna. The other "numbers" should be the durometer or softness of the o-ring.

KMA

02-25-2006, 12:19 PM

I tested out the x-rings included in my kit this morning.

The bad news:
The shape of the 017 and 018 x-rings on the bolt did not allow it to be reinserted into the marker very easily. The "squarish edge" catch on the body. I was reluctant to push, fearing it would get jammed inside. I can only assume it would work fine if you could get past the insertion, but I did not attempt to use them any further. Tolerances on markers varies, so others may (or may not) have better luck.

The good news:
The 014 x-rings fit like a glove! The pin slides smoothly inside the bolt. I did some testing before installing the x-rings for comparison, and found my velocity appeared to go up slightly with the x-rings. I was also able to lower my LPR a bit too, from ~85psi to ~80psi. The key is to ensure the x-ring is sitting in it's "natural" position when installed. In other words, they shouldn't be twisted or flipped. I used a dental pick to ensure they were installed correctly.

If I could get the x-ring equiped bolt inside the marker, I'm thinking it would work very nicely. :(

I've returned the money to anyone who sent it in for purchase of my x-ring kits. I may decide to sell the 014 x-rings by themselves. Does anyone know of another marker that could use the 017 and 018 sizes?

FallNAngel

02-25-2006, 04:40 PM

the 2 numbers that follow the 017 are the ones that determine thickness

Actually, those numbers determine the hardness.